(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

By lordloss

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 4 days ago by mrbvp1
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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #1871 Lane change and EOS positioning. Posted by GRUMPY (6 years ago)

Post #2703 Original flipper wiring photos. Posted by Pin-Pilot (4 years ago)


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#3568 3 years ago

Picking up a project HS on Monday. It will take all day driving to get there and back so fingers crossed its worth the drive

#3571 3 years ago
Quoted from bobkasprzyk:

Take lots of pictures. I too am in the throngs of a high speed project. I may have some extra parts when I am done looking forward to your thoughts
Today I am still working on my play field to get it up to standard
Next I begin replacing targets and rebuilding flippers
Seems Marco industries is my best friend and money sinkhole!
[quoted image]

Thanks this playfield is not even close to salvageable. Hardtop to the rescue. I try not to order from Marco's as they hate us Canadians and charge us 10x what you pay in shipping. Marco's and Planetary Pinball basically try their best not to deal with the hassles associated with us Canadian customers unfortunately
(But we send you all of our best hockey players. Not cool guys lol)

#3579 3 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Buy a new playfield from classic playfied instead of that hardtop

Double the price
Double the work
Double the necessary skill set
Idk guys, what's the compelling argument? Hardtops look stellar in person. I've seen a Flash Gordon done and my friend is mid Firepower.

#3581 3 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Hardtop=Strip top and bottom, sand, sand, correct inserts, clearcoat, hope you don't mess up.
New playfield is way easier. Have done 30+, hardtop is a last resort and even then I would pass.

Why would you strip the bottom? The sanding corrects the inserts and is not difficult. You dont clearcoat for a Hardtop (except the inserts if you want). I think you have overestimated the work involved in a Hardtop.

#3584 3 years ago

So I was wrong. Its 3x as much

#3585 3 years ago

Where can one purchase one of these vertical lights? I like it

Or the translucent red ramp. I dont see it anywhere either. Cheers

#3590 3 years ago

After snooping through the gallery, I think id be most interested in the following mods for my project. If the designers are following this thread, please contact me.
-ramp decal of the road (mr_tantrum?)
-vertical stoplight (freeplay40?)
-gear shifter shooter rod (?)

Also those helicopter plastics were pretty dope.

#3601 3 years ago
Quoted from killborn:

If your still interested in the decal, go to your inbox and shoot him a PM.
.

I am interested in the decal as well

#3603 3 years ago

Well I literally DESTROYED the back of my car and ceiling panel getting her in but it fits....kinda

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#3605 3 years ago

Got it in the house this afternoon. Baby steps. The head art is pretty good and the body art isnt bad. One side has clearly seen more sun.

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#3607 3 years ago

Went from playable 2hrs ago to not powering on now. Suggestions?

#3608 3 years ago

I actually thought I'd just unplugged it

#3611 3 years ago

Fingers crossed its just the switch. Thanks.
I set the High Score #3, flicked it off, came back 2 hrs later, flicked it on.....nadda

#3612 3 years ago

Oh, here is the game btw

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#3614 3 years ago

Hey guys. I probably wont have a chance to dig into it until the weekend but I did the most basic of tests (plug something into the power supply box) and it is working. That and the complete lack of ANYTHING happening when the game is flicked on leads me to believe that this loose, dirty, old switch is my issue. Fingers crossed

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#3619 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I finally got around to putting an ad up for my Freeplay40 ramp decals for anyone who may be interested: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-freeplay40-ramp-road-decal-set#post-5670197

Are you able to offer a normal decal that can be attach from above? I'd like to out one in my stock black ramp. I had the snake decal in my Metallica ramps and it held up just fine. Maybe you can offer a normal decal with a piece of mylar on it if wear is the concern?
Had to ask.

#3620 3 years ago

Mini side project.
What do you guys think? It's a little chunky looking this way but I think it's pretty sharp still. I could also cut the box to be shallower and put some flat head LEDs in there instead of the massive incandescent bulb in there right now.

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#3623 3 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Get the .stl file and print the stop light mod, much better looking

Leftover paint and parts I had around the house -$0
3d printer- holy crap lol
Even the nice pre made one would unfortunately run me over $100 cdn with the poor dollar right now and the crazy shipping rate. ($18usd to mail what I assume is a bubble envelope). Also no idea what cross border shipping times are like these days. Seeing as my game is still a shit show, I'm perfectly happy with the improvement for now. Time will tell once I get a Hardtop down.

#3625 3 years ago

I bought my High Speed on Monday and it totally crapped out on me after a couple hours of ownership. I did a little digging and found this beauty of a fire hazard in the fuse socket of the auxiliary power supply box. Wow. Just wow. Looks to be a cigarette wrapper.
What fuse do I need to buy? Cheers

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#3628 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Yea, that is no good.
I could not find reference in the Manual but I have a 8A fuse.
[quoted image]

Ran to my local pinball supply shop. Luckily she knew I needed an 8. Yours is correct. Game is all good now. Who knows how long ago some tech was on route with no fuses and threw this travesty in there. The woman at my shop said she has seen this before. Quite oftern after the fire has already happened.

#3640 3 years ago

Just messing around, having some fun after throwing a few cool LEDs in the lower half of the backbox and boom! Still a few switches that arent registering but that's a good score in my books.

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#3657 3 years ago

Does anyone here make the sticker that I've only seen in a couple pics that covers the metal bracket under the ramp with highway off ramp signs?

#3658 3 years ago

What would cause.my.pops to stop working suddenly and where should I be looking for the source of the issue? Thanks

#3659 3 years ago

This is the only fuse im questioning visually at the moment. Would it be the likely one?

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#3663 3 years ago

All good guys. That was the right fuse. I put in a slow blow and shes playing fine again. Going to try my first flipper rebuild tonight and i finished building my cheap ass rotisserie lol
Hardtops are being ordered tomorrow (only because there is an extra step for us Canadians. I was hoping to send payment today actually)

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#3668 3 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Thanks. Wouldn’t be shocked if I swapped a star post with a metal one. Had an area that I wasn’t certain about. This playfield had a bonus star post that shouldn’t have been there, so a few fun things went into this puzzle.

Mine is also the metal kind in that spot

#3675 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Sorry for the delay, but I don’t really keep up with this thread. I absolutely could do a top side decal with a vinyl clear coat, but I would need help to develop my template for such with someone. How much narrower do you think the decal would need to be?

I'd be interested to pick one up.bitni have no idea what kind of measurements your existing decal has vs what is needed for a top mount decal? Sorry

1 week later
#3679 3 years ago

Started my teardown today. I think im going to call it a day for now.
What is the best way to start removing the ramp and divertor mechs?

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#3688 3 years ago
Quoted from bobkasprzyk:

Thank you. Very helpful. My bracket does not have the extra metal to attach the spring to. Which is part of my problem. Also it’s clear to me that I have the wrong switches. (Purchased from Marco pinball)
[quoted image]

Those are the standard 1986 Williams assemblies. I just rebuilt mine. Pinpilot looks to have modefied his to the newer (post 1987?) style

#3690 3 years ago
Quoted from bobkasprzyk:

Thanks all
Can you send a pic for me to see how the rebuilt 1986 flippers look?

I could have a couple days ago but.....

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#3693 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Any progress on getting ramp and diverter off?

I have no room to work on a removed playfield in my house. The playfield has to go straight from the cabinet to outside. Im converting my shed into a murder room, i mean sand and spray booth. I already built a rotisserie to work on as well. Its been pouring rain the last 48hrs unfortunately and ive picked up some extra work lately but soon it will all start happening. Bloody Fedex guy was here with my Hardtops yesterday but left a notice without knocking. I hate when they do that. I was home. Nothing so far today

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#3710 3 years ago

Im moving on to the next phase of my pre Hardtop tear down. Ramp assembly and prep for rotisserie.
Any chance there is a known tutorial for the ramp assembly? I am no pro. First Hardtop attempt. The assembly looks to be a little more involved than id anticipated. I was going to start with my Black Knight but it has been out for board work for too long now.

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#3721 3 years ago

Comment deleted for now. Need to wrap my head around this one

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9 months later
#4557 3 years ago

I FINALLY got a chance to get back into my High Speed project after having left it untouched since August. This is my first full playfield strip and all i have left are the pops but im not sure how to remove them lol. Ive removed the metal rings and the screw inside the pop but they seem to be held it by what im assuming are the lighting wires. First, is this even correct or am i missing something obvious. Second, what is the best way to go about removing these suckers? Id like to get it sanded and sprayed over the weekend as I have two surgeries next week that will put me out of commission again for about another month. Perfect time for the clear to cure and apply a Hardtop once im all healed up. I had this game to where it played well again but dang was it ugly. 2021 facelift.

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#4558 3 years ago

Also is the translucent red ramp still a thing? In for a penny....

3 weeks later
#4567 3 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

How do powder coated wire forms hold up under use? I see people doing it on various machines but nobody comments on if they last? Those sure look nice.

I did my Metallica snake ramp green with gold flake and it had over a 1000 plays on on when i sold it. Held up perfectly. Some premium/LE models also have powder coated wireforms direct from Stern.

3 months later
#4773 2 years ago

my phone took a swim in the pool
Unfortunately it also had all my tear down pics for my High Speed.
If anyone here has a file of pics they could send me from their own tear down, that would be unbelievably helpful. I installed a Hardtop while i was unable to work. Im all good and healthy and wanting to work on my games again but this was my first playfield teardown and im going to feel very confused, very soon lol. Thanks.

#4777 2 years ago
Quoted from Palmer:

I have a project High Speed that I am using for a retheme project so lots of parts I will most likely not use. Tested MPU, sound and driver boards, power supply, transformer, backglass (nice condition), displays, plastics, some other stuff. If anyone needs something, just message me.

Do you happen to have this plastic. Between the pops and the right traffic targets. Mine came with this hand painted (though well done) piece.

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#4778 2 years ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

This site should be helpful:
http://www.theteardown.com/gallery/categories.php
If there’s anything you need that’s not in there just holler.

Thanks

#4788 2 years ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

Hmmmm- Your wire guide between the saucer and the pop bumper looks a lot straighter than mine. Mine has a "swoop" towards the saucer. Wonder if straightening it will help. Foam may work too.

This^^^^

Here is a pic of mine that im putting back together

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#4792 2 years ago

Where is a good place to get the hard yellow post sleeves? I feel like any sleeves ive ever purchased would be too bouncy. Thanks.

#4803 2 years ago

Id like to change my playfield flashers to LEDs. I know there is a capacitor or something similar i need to remove for esch flasher (or thats what ive read). Could someone please post pics of this mod and talk to me like i have to clue what im doing lol.

#4805 2 years ago

Thanks
I ended up reading through the thread on warming flashers and went with the snip the 330s off route.

#4810 2 years ago
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

OK...
I love my HS... I will likely keep it a very loooong time.
The playfield is rough.
I know some prefer the CPR swap and other say to do a Hardtop.
I'm leaning towards a Hardtop for durability and longevity... plus a savings of $500+...
What is the thoughts of everyone. I know they both will probably require a ton of work that I will be on here getting advice from the smart kids in class.

Taking it apart is the easy part. Putting it back together....taking my sweet time

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#4812 2 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

New Playfield, if its available grab one. If you read the Hardtop forum, takes some prep wor to even install it. Still have to tear off topside and if you get overzealous, the bottom. I waited for the CPR playfield, and I am glad I did. Is the Hardtop nice, absolutely. If price is a factor, then only you know the route to take. Good luck in whatever choice you make.

Unless you are someone of only moderate pinball repair skills (like myself). The bottom is hella daunting. Im very happy i went with a hardtop or id likely be paying someone to finish my work.

#4814 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

CPR Currently has Highspeed playfields for $849.00

Oh right, also a Hardtop is $325.00 and cheaper to ship than a playfield.

#4816 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

True, That was mentioned in a previous post do I did not bring it up again.

It was alluded. Now its been mentioned

3 weeks later
#4883 2 years ago

Hello, me again. Going to try to find some time this weekend to dig into my HS again. If anyone has clear pics of what goes where in the hideout area that would be greatly appreciated. The labels I had written have fallen off. It mostly the hideouts, pops and ramp/divertor that are holding me back now. Soon. In better hands this could be up and running tomorrow I think.
The pop reassembly also has me hesitating.

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#4884 2 years ago

Also, this showed up a few days ago.

Thanks Freeplay40

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#4886 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Let me know if this helps. I have some more detailed pics as well
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you

2 months later
#4953 2 years ago

I'm just about done my High Speed project (17mo later)
If someone has a couple pics of how the diverter assembly attaches with the rubber rings that would be helpful. Indont remember having to take the diverter mech apart to feed it up the back but it's the only obvious method I'm seeing at a glance

#4954 2 years ago
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:

I'm just about done my High Speed project (17mo later)
If someone has a couple pics of how the diverter assembly attaches with the rubber rings that would be helpful. Indont remember having to take the diverter mech apart to feed it up the back but it's the only obvious method I'm seeing at a glance

NM. Found one. It's goes behind the entire mech

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#4956 2 years ago

Anybody know what this hook up is for? I can see where it would be needed?

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#4960 2 years ago

I figured that one out. Mostly together now. Anyone know where this piece of wireform goes? It's from around the ramp but idk where exactly.
Basically just the tamp to work on now.
Already fired it up and did a switch test. A few tweaks but all good.

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#4962 2 years ago

Im missing a few screws after 17mo of moving my project around. What kind of screws are used in the two ramp brackets that screw into the diverter plate? Anything g else I'm.missing can be substituted for something similar but those two are threaded holes that I DO NOT want to f up

#4966 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Ah, that guide wire stumps a lot. I answered this question earlier in the thread but it is easier for me to include the answer in this post. Here is a pic where it goes. It attaches to the ramp as well. I actually made a different guide wire that does not attach to the ramp since I have the ramp from Freeplay40. Here is the pic of the stock wire placing.
[quoted image]

I'm missing some screw so my ramp and corresponding frames are just sitting in there loose but it's obviously in the final stages now.
I also have the Freeplay40 ramp. Are you suggesting I leave the wire out?

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#4968 2 years ago

Looking for tips on the diverter adjustments. It doesn't want to let me do full loops most times. The divertor arms end up in this half out position very often now.

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#4969 2 years ago

Safe assumption that the stock coin mechs only take quarters? Thinking about routing mine but I want those loonies (dollar coins)

#4971 2 years ago

Does anyone here know what switch 38 is? I don't have a manual but I'm getting a service warning on boot up. Thanks.

#4972 2 years ago
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:

Does anyone here know what switch 38 is? I don't have a manual but I'm getting a service warning on boot up. Thanks.

I think it's my upper flipper possibly? It stays active occasionally until the flipper button is pressed again. I still have some tweaking to do

#4976 2 years ago

What would be involved in changing my High Speed to accept loonies? (Cdn $1 coins)
Obviously new mechs. That part is easy but the coin slots on the door are only big enough to fit quarters. Would a whole new coin door also be necessary? I haven't taken apart the door on HS and it is different but I know for older Williams games you could replace the coin "flap" part.
Thanks. The game is going into a local brewery for the winter.

#4977 2 years ago

File that shit? Jk....mostly

#4981 2 years ago

I ended up filing the opening and I'm ordering some new mechs. I don't have a printer anyway so I need to find the little coin reject insert for $1 and I need some apron cards before it heads out to its temporary home

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