4 Aces
Williams, 1970
Baby Pac-Man
Bally, 1982
Buck Rogers
Mambelli, 1980
Camel Lights
Game Plan, 1978
Comet
Williams, 1985
Cyclone
Williams, 1988
Genesis
Gottlieb, 1986
Getaway: High Speed II, The
Williams, 1992You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Bellagio.
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Has anyone come up with a good option for covering the white area/lights under the clear ramp when installed with relocated traffic light? I know some ideas were thrown around in this thread in the past, but were any actually done?
I really, really like the clear ramp, but I don’t like that area being visible, it just looks like something’s missing to me. I may end up getting a clear ramp and just keep the traffic light in it’s original spot.
Just want to give a shoutout to HSA Pinball for the awesome job they did clearcoating my new pf. Time to get ready for the swap!
Quoted from Radius:Not a new club member, but my HS project has been in storage for awhile, so more a restored club member. :]
In the process of getting my machine out of storage, the spacer assembly between the backbox and main cabinet was fragmented, and as I do not have access to a table saw (in the process of building a shop), I was forced to restore the spacer from the pieces one bit at a time. Made from plywood, and stapled together, it was in about 6 pieces and many bits.
That having happened it somewhat put a damper on the enthusiasm of working on my machine, so I've been reading the back pages of the club, and looking at replacement displays while the glue dries.
My question for the group is are any of the new LED display sets better than another? PInscore, Xpin and Rottendog are the players I've come up with, but do not seen anything that particularly sets one manufacturer over another. Also, when last I pursued the restoration, one of the companies was offering a set of red and blue displays, to play on the color of the police lights, for HS, and I wondered if that was still available? I could always get white displays and put gels in front of them, making my own red & blue, but why recreate the wheel if I don't need to.
Thanks much,
Ray~
I have the red/blue displays, they were made by Xpin (XP-WMS10877). I don’t see them available anymore on the website, just white or orange. My machine is currently disassembled for restoration, but I’ll post a pic if I find one in my files.
Quoted from cmack750:Can someone here lift their playfield and post a picture of the wiring running to and between the 2 switches in the left Hideout? One switch is under the playfield and the other should be topside, but I just need to see the wires running into the through-hole for that one. I'm having some trouble with one of my switches there and the wiring appears to have been hacked. Thanks.
Hope this helps
IMG_7390 (resized).JPGIMG_7531 (resized).JPGQuoted from cmack750:Thanks. Main problem I was having was that when a ball went into the left Hideout, there would be a longer than normal delay (probably 6-7 seconds) and then the ball would eject from the Hideout like normal, but without the left flashers alerting you that it was coming. After looking at these pics, it looks like a previous owner/op had simply run out of wire in the harness and had spliced in different colored wire around these switches. I cut out their wiring and splices and redressed the harness to get the lengths I needed and ended up replacing the lower left Hideout switch with a NOS one I was able to get from PBR. After doing that and resoldering it all back up, everything now works exactly as it should... Ball immediately registers that it is in the Hideout, flashers start doing their thing, and then the ball ejects a couple seconds later. I think I had a combo bad wiring and flaky switch (even though the switch did register correctly in switch test).
Great job, glad to hear it's working!
Quoted from ramsfan:Hello, I am going to be traveling up to Chicago soon, and will be checking out a Getaway High Speed II that is for sale near there. I am a relative pinball novice, but have learned that each machine has certain things that are prone to wear/failure, etc... that are important to check out when considering a machine.
For example, on Wizard of Oz, the light boards were a big problem, and it is best to have a machine with the latest boards where the problem has been rectified.
I understand on Judge Dredd, that the swing arm is a problem, and on Twilight Zone the clock is problematic, and there are fixes for those that would be good to have.
My question for you guys is what are the things I need to make sure and check out or ask about when it comes to Highspeed II?
Thank you in advance!
Getaway has a club, you might find some good info in that thread
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin
Quoted from martimagico:I’m doing a restore with pf swap. At the point where I’m putting it all back in. Need info on led bulbs. Do the inserts ghost with normal LEDs? I need to know if I need to order new bulbs.
Please help!?!?
I’m also currently doing a pf swap. I didn’t find ghosting to be really noticeable on mine, but when I’m finished on the swap I will be installing an OCD led system. I saw in the instructions it specifically says not to use non-ghosting led bulbs, so I plan to install regular CoinTakers. If I wasn’t buying the OCD system I would probably get the non-ghosting bulbs.
Quoted from martimagico:Thanks! I’ll look into that system. Are you swapping in a brand new pf? I couldn’t find one so I bought a decent used on on ebay and touched it up.
Yep, I’m swapping in a CPR. I had it clear coated by HSA before they shut down.
There is this one, but it doesn’t look like it’s finished and also looks different than the original.
Quoted from MJW:Terry responded and I will mail the traffic light to Pinball Life tomorrow.
Awesome, thanks for doing that!
Quoted from desertT1:If I had my own CNC mill and would be able to make the molds myself it wouldn't be a big deal. I'm wondering if there is even a chance at getting to break-even on that. I design my own molds, so it's not nearly as expensive as you typically read about. When you get to that stage, it's no different than any other job to the machine shop that makes the parts.
Consider it on the table. You are actually the exact person I thought of when debating pros/cons of taking on the task. Can you make any ramp you want as long as you don't add decals? Just wondering how many hoops there are to jump through.
Bummer that Terry can’t make it, much appreciated if you can figure out a way!
Quoted from MJW:Terry has not given up yet. He’s getting a quote from someone with a high end printer . Probably won’t be cost effective but he’s looking in to it. I’ll keep the club posted.
Great, thanks! If it’s a good replica I would def be willing to pay the price of an nos one
Quoted from Pin-up:I just stopped by and spoke briefly with Terry today and picked up the one example that was made. It looks great and fits perfect, but it would have to be priced at around $50 to make cents, so there is probably not going to be any demand for that part at that price to make it worth while. It was also clear coated after it was made. Possibly in the future as the 3d printing industry evolves and costs come down......?
MJW Thanks so much for volunteering up your traffic light for an example to give all of this a try. It is much appreciated!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Wow, he did a really nice job on that! Too bad he can’t mass produce them cheaper.
Quoted from Nyraiderfan:Lol thanks for the quick response it's not that I'm lazy just scared.
I switched over to LED flashers in mine. I was also nervous about it at the time, being new to pins, but it’s no big deal at all.
In my current restoration, since I have no intention of ever using regular bulbs I replaced the other resistors with new and removed the warming resistors completely.
If you think there’s a chance that you or a future buyer will want to go back to regular bulbs, you can lift one of the legs of the warming resistors and tape it off with electrical tape (that’s what I did). You can also remove one of the ground wires (search this thread for the procedure).
8959BD7D-65A3-4A4F-9B52-5D129879EF25 (resized).jpegQuoted from cjchand:Apologies in advance if this is covered elsewhere in the 48 pages of posts, but I'm looking at a HS later this weekend and wanted to know if there's any gotcha's to look for specific to this pin? Seen vids of it and looks like it plays pretty well, though there is definite mylar peeling/missing on the playfield.
Thanks in advance!
Common areas of heavy wear are the left lane kickback, next to the escape hole where the ball kicks out, in front of the slings where the ball drops, and of course the pops. Look for cracks in the ramp, they can be hard to see. Check function of the topper red light and as FireGamer3 mentioned, run a couple of multi-ball sequences to ensure that both diverters and both hideouts work correctly.
Good luck, it's a great game!
Hey guys, looking for some advice. I just finished my pf swap and am ready to connect it to the machine for testing. I went through pics of the old pf and checked them against all my wiring, everything looks correct. I want to connect the large pf molex connectors one at a time, least risk to high risk. Any thoughts on the order I should go? Also, all of my coils are molexed, I planned to connect and test them one at a time if everything else tests ok. Would that cause any issues? Thanks in advance for any ideas!
Quoted from GRUMPY:Main thing to do is double check coil diodes and SS switches. Then connect everything and run all test in the menu. Fix any minor issues and enjoy your hard work.
My High Speed is alive again! A few issues to work through, but nothing horrible.
3870859B-9597-40D1-8D61-51D5870C2A03 (resized).jpegQuoted from cjchand:Good news: Haven't gotten it to fail again.
Bad news: Haven't gotten it to fail again.
But, a couple of mystery screws to fell out of the PF while doing some other work. They look like the screws to hold the cover to a pop bumper (I didn't touch the covers, for what that's worth). Odd thing is these mystery screws are silver; ones in the pop covers currently are black. I couldn't find any other sources of those kinds of small screws.
Anyway, given that the suspect circuit is the right pop, having rando hardware lying somewhere around the pops might explain why it was intermittent.
Fingers crossed...
Not sure if you have the old ramp or the clear one, but if it’s the old one, check the small screws holding the clear plastic cover over the ramp. I have had those screws work their way out before
85336ECA-3686-4413-90E3-6DE901D992F1 (resized).jpegQuoted from cjchand:Thanks for the callout. I've got Feeplay40's clear ramp on it with no cover.
Just looked for them, but didn't find in my random parts bin. Not sure what I did with them, but they look like the left screw in this image:
https://www.pinballlife.com/bumper-cap-screws.html
Strange, not sure on that one. I’ll let you know if I run into any others like that
Quoted from cjchand:Found them. Here's what one looks like. Gotta think this is from the pop cover, but open to other suggestions.
[quoted image]
Perhaps it's this guy, minus the lock washer: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4004-01003-08
Description says it was also used on the rod and ring assembly, so will take a peek there later tonight.
Since this looks like a bolt, check all your microswitch assemblies under the pf. They all have 2 bolts that secure them to the mount that look similar to yours.
Quoted from the_one:I will start playfield swap soon. Also going to install the red translucent ramp from freeplay40 together with red translucent bumper housings / caps.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Lots of work, but it will look great when you’re finished. Good luck!
I re-built the traffic light lamp assembly, but I did use the original metal bracket that attaches it to the ramp. I don't think it would be that hard to make a new one though.
I replaced all of the lamp sockets in my game during the pf swap so I wanted to replace the ones in the traffic light too. I re-used the standoffs because nos are not available anywhere, but you can probably find a suitable substitute.
The original lamps are attached together on a metal bracket, but you can use regular lamp sockets like I did and daisy chain them together.
Here are a few pics, the last 3 are the finished product. Let me know if you need anything specific.
IMG_0438 (resized).JPGIMG_0441 (resized).JPGIMG_0444 (resized).JPGIMG_0450 (resized).JPGIMG_0468 (resized).JPGIMG_0529 (resized).JPGIMG_0530 (resized).JPGQuoted from Hammerhead:Bump, just a few measurements anyone?
CB426E4C-7E92-4E4C-9E08-97F49B8D1443 (resized).jpegC2B0CBE3-10C0-46AB-BCF4-C48584C2FAE1 (resized).jpegDDF8E936-407F-462F-BA45-DF8031EA0DC1 (resized).jpegB9E6B034-F84A-467D-95F9-E18F914277A2 (resized).jpegQuoted from monkfe:looking at that last pic...is that the ramp that is cracked (black plastic?) Available? (guessing not)
You may find some repro ones for around $100, if you can find one and absolutely want black like the original. Otherwise, Freeplay40 makes really nice clear ones for around the same price. I put one on mine and it looks great.
Quoted from detroitzoran:I've been searching throughout this forum and online to find an answer (or just get some opinions) to how to handle replacing the plastic pieces that have the metal spacers. I am attempting, my first time, rebuild of this pinball machine. I am in the reassembly phase after installing a Hardtop on the playfield and am stumped by the metal spacers that separate the plastic playfield pieces. Like the one pictured below. I've read earlier in the thread where someone posted that the metal spacers are removed by heating them up with a soldering iron, then applied to the new plastic by again, heating with a soldering iron and forcing them in. Has anyone used the black spacers (linked below) with any success? What are the best options?
https://www.pinballlife.com/8-black-plastic-spacers-with-mounting-notch.html[quoted image]
Check out this thread, I followed these procedures and it worked out fine.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/repo-plastic-question
Quoted from monkfe:cliffy sells replacement metal ball guides shown above that have tighter clearance and you may want to look at (mine were pretty banged up with a lip from the ball hitting it).. I believe he also has some tips to remove these...but I simply took my dremel and ground down the lip only on the top of the spacer. when it gets to the point where its ground flush with the top of the ball guide, it simply pops out. leave the short portion that extends into the metal guide and it should slip in nicely to the new one....the plastic ones can be done like suggested above with a soldering iron...pretty straight forward.
I second this, the Cliffy lane guide replacements are excellent.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:I am in the middle of my High Speed restoration. I am looking to replace the Playfield mounting brackets. I was able to find the part that attaches directly to the playfield but cannot find anyone that sells the other half that is attached to the inside cabinet. (see picture). Anyone know where I can find 2 of these brackets? Thanks. I have searched but cannot find any.
TIA[quoted image]
I bought replacements for my restoration (still waiting on the cabinet to be finished). The part number is 01-8250. I got them from Pinball Resource.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Have mercy please. Where does this wire thing go. I remember taking it off somewhere around the ramp. Thanks![quoted image]
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:It attaches to the post under the ramp and to the rear screw on the stop light bracket attached to the ramp.[quoted image]
I’m glad you brought that up, my game is totally missing that. I’ll have to try to track down the part number. If I can’t find it I’ll try to make one.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:Marco has them, But would be easy to make as well.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-6683
Perfect, thanks! For $5 I’ll just buy it with my next Marcos order, too lazy to make one ha ha
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:was unable find 15 pin or larger connectors. DigiKey had them listed on their web site however they were marked "obsolete". I will keep looking and replace them later if I can find them
Try Great Plains Electronics, he has a lot of the older connectors.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:I checked Great Plains electronics and got the dreaded "Obsolete" on the connectors I was looking for. Maybe Grumpy will have some available he is willing to part with. FingersCrossed...
Yeah it seems like a lot of those larger molex connectors were only used on older games and are no longer produced. Unfortunately a lot of them are in fairly bad burnt/yellowed condition and are tough to replace.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Oh my. I really need to get these in. I love them.[quoted image][quoted image]
I’ve never seen those before, interested to see how they look.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Damn, A-11047 is unobtainium.. how do I go about fixing this screw up?
I recall this issue well. If you absolutely want to get an original A-11047, I found one at PBR.
The problem is that it’s really hard to adjust the actuator arm on top of the switch without breaking it. It’s only held to the switch by a thin plastic pivot. If that plastic is broken, the switch is not repairable. It’s VERY easy to break, don’t ask me how I know...
I replaced it with the newer version of the switch, 5647-12693-20. It’s a DB3 microswitch with the same actuator arm, but the arm is attached over the top of the switch. It can be easily adjusted without breaking anything. The worst you can do is pop it off, and if you do you can just reattach it. You will also need to attach a diode.
Quoted from GRUMPY:You don't need to do this, the unused terminal can be used. You don't need the bakelite board anymore, move that connection to the unused (NC) terminal.
So for example, in this pic the non-banded end of the diode and the wht/brn wire could be moved to NC lug instead of cutting it off, eliminating the bakelite board? If that's the case, with my current Taxi restoration I'll be getting rid of the board.
Just curious why the factory didn't do that to eliminate the extra step?
SW51-2 (resized).JPGQuoted from GRUMPY:Also you need to have the green wires on the NO terminal.
So green (drive) goes to NO, white (return) goes to NC with non-banded side of the diode, and banded side of diode goes to COM?
Quoted from jk:Anybody know a source or have any extra high speed / williams metal light socket strips? I need 6 - 3 position strips, 1 straight - 5 position strip, 4 angled 5 position strips. I’m doing a pf swap and most of the sockets are corroded and after cleaning the harness some sockets are coming off the metal light strip brackets. I would like to keep it looking original if possible. Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I tried but couldn’t find a way to rebuild the lamp sockets on the metal strips and I knew that I would eventually have problems with them. I had most of the same issues that you have, lamps falling off the metal strips, corrosion, etc.
I ended up just replacing all of them with new individual lamps during my pf swap. It was a lot of work, but I believe the reliability makes it worth the effort.
Quoted from jk:I’ll give it a bit of time to try to find some but yeah if nobody has any, I’ll have to do the individual sockets. Do you know the part # of the ones you used? Thanks
I believe it was this style:
https://www.pinballlife.com/miniature-bayonet-base-3-lead-socket-with-long-mounting-bracket.html
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:As I look at making the LED switch out on the machine... has anyone done coloured LED's on the PF lights. Thinking green under the plastics.
This is what I used, and it looks really good. The op in this thread put a lot of work into it:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-williams-high-speed-led-conversion-wmap-lists
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Is the knocker on a fuse? Coil dead? Coil sleeve worn? Transistor dead?
Coil and sleeve are new. I just watched it operate during test mode and it worked smoothly. If the fuse was blown or the transistor was bad I would think that it wouldn’t work at all? Everything else in the game is 100%.
This one has me stumped. I know it doesn’t affect gameplay but it’s just cool and should work.
Quoted from GRUMPY:What do you have set for adjustments 08 and 50?
So when I went to check this, 08 Match feature is on and 50 Sw alarm knocker is set to yes. Funny thing is that special was set to “credit”. I changed this to “ball” and for whatever reason, the knocker started working again during gameplay!
You always have the magic touch Grumpy, thanks man!
Quoted from koji:Well here is my temporary fix. If anyone has an extra flap for this around, I'd be much obliged. I had a few sys6 flap gates, but didn't realize this one is a bit wider and the housing is welded to the guide.
I saw at one point, there were repros to be had (just the flap). I guess that's all I need.
Thank you-
[quoted image]
Mine was missing too, this is what I used:
Quoted from Hangernade:Is it normal or not normal for the game to knock when awarded an extra ball? Game was not knocking before but is now. Not sure which way I like it better but could not find how to change it.
Does the knocker work in test mode? If so, I had an issue with mine not working during gameplay and this was the solution.
Quoted from Lovef2k:My HS was working last weekend and my daughter has been playing the heck out of it all week. It developed an issue when it gets to the "get away" phase for multi-ball. First I should mention that the ball doesn't always make the ramp from the plunger pull, sometimes misses all together and other times just too weak. When the first ball goes up the ramp and ends up in the left hideout, all is good when second ball end up in the right hideout. But if both balls end up in the left hideout, nothing happens, the game go silent and I have to turn it off.
But if the first ball up the ramp ends up in the right hideout, the left hideout kicker activates until the 2nd ball reaches it. And then sometimes the ball will straight through to the upper flipper. When this happens, no 3rd ball is ejected to the shooter lane.
Is this a timing issue, or something else? I checked all switches and they seem to be working ok.
Check that the plunger is lined up correctly with the ball. Also, if necessary, there is a screw near the end of the shooter lane that adjusts the rail to change the trajectory of the ball coming out of the shooter lane.
I would plunge a few balls while taking a slow-mo video of the shooter lane and the path to the bottom of the ramp. You should be able to see what the ball is doing that stops it from going up the ramp.
For the issue with the hideouts during the multiball sequence, I had the same issue and it was caused by the right/lower hideout switch (the one under the pf) being out of adjustment. Due to its’ location and its’ bracket, I can tell you it’s a real pain to get this switch adjusted correctly!
Quoted from Lovef2k:What is the big 30,000 uF cap in the bottom of the back box for? Has anyone replaced it and did it make any difference?
My understanding is that it’s in the controlled lamps circuit to smooth out the lighting. I’ve also read that they essentially never fail.
Inkochnito’s bridge board that I highly recommend eliminates it anyway.
Quoted from Lovef2k:Does anybody sell new red flasher lens covers?
https://www.pinballlife.com/plastic-light-domes-with-screw-tabs.html
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:my phone took a swim in the pool
Unfortunately it also had all my tear down pics for my High Speed.
If anyone here has a file of pics they could send me from their own tear down, that would be unbelievably helpful. I installed a Hardtop while i was unable to work. Im all good and healthy and wanting to work on my games again but this was my first playfield teardown and im going to feel very confused, very soon lol. Thanks.
This site should be helpful:
http://www.theteardown.com/gallery/categories.php
If there’s anything you need that’s not in there just holler.
This got me through my pf swap, it does diode tests:
https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA
Quoted from Axaios:The biggest repair project I have ever done!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/from-a-pile-of-scrap-to-brand-new-machine-william-s-high-speed-
[quoted image][quoted image]
Enjoyed your thread, awesome to see a game brought back from the dead!
Quoted from jdzwir123:Thank you! I had a question about the radar lights. The previous owner had led lights in that spot. They are continually on. Could it be that they are not Flashers? Or is there some other place I should look?
Led flashers will stay on unless you remove the warming resistors from the circuit.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/removing-warming-resistors
Quoted from jdzwir123:Thank you Bellagio for referencing that post.
I cut a leg off of everyone of them and now all the flashers are led and work like they were intended to. The light show is actually a lot better than I remember.
Glad to hear it! I also changed over to all led flashers. The light show during the pursuit is great
Quoted from The_Great_Man:I do not mean to interrupt the conversation but has anyone used Cliffy's hole protectors on their High Speed. Where is the best place to get one and how easy is it to install? My hole still works pretty good but I could see where it could get some wear. Thanks.
I’m a fan of Cliffys, but I don’t recommend this one, especially on a new playfield. It’s only caused me headaches with rejects. I’m worried about damaging the pf while removing it, otherwise it would be gone.
I put protectors on the shooter lane and I think those are worthwhile.
Quoted from mmmmdoughnuts:I picked up a High Speed a few weeks ago for my first pin. It needed some love for sure and I've got it playing almost perfect with help from friends and this wonderful site. I'm pretty new to the world of pinball repair and I'm stuck on a couple things I was hoping someone could help me with. The thing that is bothering me more than anything is that there is no background sound. Switches, call out, attract mode all work. I first pulled, cleaned and re seated the roms on the sound board. Re flowed the headers. New ribbon cable. Re pinned J16 from the main board to the sound board. Bought and installed a new sound rom. All of this and no change at all. Not one sound of background music.
Second thing is the displays. Speeder one and two have dotted lines through the center of the displays. The picture does not show it all the way through on player two but it is. Camera didn't capture it. All I've done for this is a new ribbon cable from the main board to the display board. Pull and re seat the ribbon cables on the displays. Re flow the headers on the main board.
[quoted image]
Maybe contact Chris Hibler and have him refresh your boards. He did great work on my Taxi boards and installed nvram.
For the displays, I’d just replace them with Xpin and you’ll never have a problem. Good luck, it’s my favorite old school game!
Quoted from pevo:High speed mod question. Since my Beacon was long gone before i acquired this pin... I decided to Mod it with a LED light bar. However this LED bar runs at 12vdc. The original beacon used a 24vac motor and a 28v bulb (im assuming AC also)
Im considering using the motor 24vac wiring (reduced and converted to 12vdc +/-) to power the light bar with a preselected light sequence. Shown are pics of what im considering using.
What say ye? Is this doable and or will this potentially screwing some thing up that im not anticipating? [quoted image][quoted image]
I used a full size police led light bar that’s activated by a relay. Definitely not for purists, but what a light show when the chase sequence starts!
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