I went ahead and cleaned the contacts again with a business card and rubbing alcohol. Then realized that the leaf arms on the right spinner seemed to be out of adjustment so I attempted to bend them a little closer together and that seemed to help my DMM continuity test but the game is still giving me an error.

Part needed. While prepping the PF for hardtop, I broke this micro switch actuator arm. It's not removable so I need the mounting plate as well. Either side will work, bot the same. Thanks in advance!

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Sounds like it's still a bit dirty. Try cleaning it again. If that doesn't work, the contacts may be shot to the point that just replacing it is better.
Maybe try cleaning it with a $100 instead of a $50.

That switch will be easy, just reference it in the manual or from the Williams part catalog online.

It sure was. Ended up using some business cards I cut into strips and dipped them into rubbing alcohol. That seemed to do the trick!

Also received my warm white LEDs from Comet, as well as the decal set from Mr. Tantrum this weekend. I tore down the playfield plastics to gain access to the existing LEDs, removed the ramp to install the decal, cleaned all the other contacts, cleaned the playfield and then put a few coats of wax down. (Did I just complete my first "shop" job??)

The game plays even smoother now and is much more enjoyable with the warm white LEDs as seen below.

Before:
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After:
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A-11043 Ball Deflector & Rollover Wire Assy

Page 347 of Williams Blue parts manual

You could easily remake that arm with the PBR piano wire sample kit.

I agree. Buy a piece of hard maple. Pound 2 nails into it and start bending. How I do all my wire bending. I have my HS torn down right now and I have Piano Wire. I might just recreate this. Give me a week and see what I come up with.

Ken

Is that just the base w actuator or entire assembly with micro. I got D 11047 in the parts manual.

I actually thought of that. I think I have a piece of .051 wire but not sure if I can make those 90 degree bends that are so close together.

It goes up and down depending on the average game score. I think it adjusts it every 50 games (going by memory).

FYI to the group: I have a original backboard that can be used to make a new one if your old one is damaged in any way. I also will make a new one for you as well.

PinPilot was nice enough to share his original with me so I could make a new one and I want to pay it forward, so just putting the information out there. I will be storing this until a fellow pinsider needs it.

Ken

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Hi,

I recently got my paws on a project High Speed and was wondering if someone could take a picture of 1 of the sling coil assemblies showing the position of the leaf switch at the coil?

To me it looks like the wrong arms are installed on the machine.

That leaf switch is for scoring points. It should be "OPEN" while the sling is at rest and closes to score when the sling is activated. There should also be a diode on it. Here is a pic of my restore (you may need to zoom in a little). There should be a piece of fish tape to prevent metal to metal contact with the sling arm assembly.

Let me know if this clears up your issue.

Congrats getting your paws on a High Speed
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Yes, thank you and it is as I suspected. The kicker arm I have is wrong. The pin/shaft that connects to the plunger is too short (the 1 that activates the scoring leaf). I found A-5652-1 part on Marco but this looks wrong. Does anyone have the correct part number? The manual doesn't seem to show it or I am blind, it shows the one I found on Marco on page 37, but this looks like what I have.

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I believe this may be the correct one. B-9463 (A little pricey)

I think the other is for the Hideouts.

Here is Action Pinball but it is out of stock... http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=A-7986

I got them from Marco a couple of months ago. They were not on the game specific search. Search by part number.

This is what you need for HS slings:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-7986

I just installed these on my game and they perfectly.

work

The biggest repair project I have ever done!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/from-a-pile-of-scrap-to-brand-new-machine-william-s-high-speed-

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Enjoyed your thread, awesome to see a game brought back from the dead!

Nice job! Looks great!

Wow, that's an overhaul! Thanks for saving a classic, hope you enjoy it.

WOW! Well done and thanks for sharing!

So, this is my first pin an am learning as I go. Thought I blew a fuse the other day (which I have dealt with before) but it sounds like more.

My wife was playing and I heard a knock like a ball hitting the top glass. Then display went weird. We shut it off and turned it on to reset it and everything seems normal but the flippers and start button don't work now.

Thoughts on where to start?

+5 volt regulator caps.
The fuses.

Might need a little more info to determine what is going on. Have you looked closely at your boards in the head? see if any component has fried?

When you turn on the pin does everything turn on normally? GI lighting, etc?

A couple of rules questions:

After I run the red light and lock the first ball in the hideout for multiball, sometimes I'll get two ball multiball, sometimes three ball. Why the difference? The only thing I can figure is that with two ball, I'm plunging the second one so fast that the ramp "stopper" doesn't catch it and put it in the other hideout, and once it hits something on the playfield, that's it, no third ball.

When I start multiball, all the red/amber/green inserts in front of the standups are unlit. As I hit them during multiball, they light up, but I don't think I've ever gotten all nine. Is there some bonus score for hitting all nine? Do they then stay lit or go dark and start over again?

Non-rules question:

I have a flat spot in the sheet metal of my apron right above the outhole and the Williams "W" in the circle. Damned if I could figure out why until a few fast balls did a drain under the raised left flipper, hit the wire guide just below it, and went airborne and hit the apron in the flat spot. I'm guessing this is fairly common to High Speed's and not peculiar to mine?

A hideout switch could be activating... the second backup switch, could think that two balls are in hideout so it kicks balls out...
1) relite the stop light targets is done for eject lock.

I have a second HS that works but I never really played it yet. Doing a hardtop right now but the opening of the apron hood behind the flippers is all peened on the edge. I was baffled by this so yes this could be a common problem. My other HS that I have had for years never done this. The only thing I can think of is that the buffer wires below the flippers are not down all the way. Or maybe incorrect pitch of the pf. I think the recommended pitch is 6 degrees?

Sorry, everything looks normal and all the fuses are fine.
When I power on everything works fine except the buttons. I ran through all the music test, light test - everything seems ok.

I neglected to mention that, when I run the coil test, nothing happens on any of the coils. It clearly seems fuse related, but none of them appear to be burnt out.

You can't tell if a fuse is burnt by looking at it. If you don't have the means to test each one with a meter out of the game, try rotating fuses F103, F04 and F105. Those are your solenoid fuses and they are all 3A slow blow. If the problem persists, than either ALL your fuses have blown (doubtful) or you have another issue.

ha ha ha... strike that. I have a HS and HS2 and got confused as to which forum I was on!

For HS, the solenoid fuses are F2 and F4. You can't switch them though, even though they are both 2.5 amp. F4 is a slow blow and F2 is not. Best to take those out and test them with a meter.

Thought I would share a little mod that I made while restoring my topside. I wanted to update the standard black and off-white spacers used on the plastics. I came up with a tree trunk shape and printed them in green so they would blend in . It's subtle, but I am happy with how they turned out.

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That is pretty cool, A lot better than the standard boring posts.

That tree mod is awesome.

They look really cool!

How many are used in the game? Can you provide all the locations you used them in? I want a full set for my restoration.

Ken

I would be interested in a set of these if you would be willing to make them. I bet there would be other people interested as well!

Thanks for all of the nice comments. I wasn't really expecting to sell kits, but it seems there might be enough interest. I kind of made the design quick and dirty, so will think if there are any improvements I want to make. I think I'll pick up some wood filament to see how that looks. I'll create a separate mod thread and folks can PM me directly with questions.

Awesome, if it is too much much work and you want them only for your game, I respect that too. It is nice to have a one of a kind feature all to yourself.

Ok, now that I have the correct sling arms, now to deal with a whole slough of problems that I have it powered up. lol

Any locked coils upon power up? If so, which one/s?

Kid decided he wanted to get some decent scores on NVRam, streamed it last night, figured I'd post it here as gameplay if anyone is interested. Amazing how the game holds up, just fast classic gameplay and an amazing package overall-

Sorry been busy with work - but THANKS for your help. You both solved the problem and explained my troubleshooting error. I have restored an old 70s muscle car, so I am used to the standard little fuses that are obviously burnt out. The last fuse that popped on the pin was visibly popped. So, sure enough F4 was popped even though it looked fine.

But, you also raised a new question - you say F2 is not supposed to be a slow blow, but the high speed fuse diagram floating around the internet says it should be a slow blow. It has a slow blow in there now, and I am wondering if I should change it.

No coils locked on, however the left flipper was wired incorrectly and the kick out coil also had it's wires connected backwards. The latter damaged both the output and driver transistors as well as the SN7804 IC.

This came to me with the PF swapped, so there was also many issues with the GI shorting out.

Just got to realign the shooter guides so the ball can make it to the upper section of the PF - right now it hits the lower post. Plus there is some issue with the plastic ramp. It was replaced with a clear one, but it is out of wack. Too high on the right so the ball cannot drop back to the PF.

Eventually it will all get there...

I just finished swapping mine and had the same issue with the shooter guide rail. I have a Freeplay40 ramp as well. He installed and gapped the switches but I'm not sure if they need to be a little closer since the game gets confused on the hideouts if a ball flies up there really fast. I was thinking of adding caps to those switches like they have on the pop bumper switches but haven't gotten to it yet.

Are my displays starting to go or is this a symptom of something else. Only the upper two display issues and it’s somewhat intermittent. The top right one is the worst. I swapped the ribbon cables around with no major change but I do have a new one on the way as that’s cheap and easy to check off. Board looks ok.

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Is there any corrosion on the CPU? I think the network resistors on the top of the board have something to do with the displays. My game has a horizontal segment out on the center line on both alphas, all digits. It had previous corrosion repair before I bought it. It's probably a broken trace somewhere.