(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

By lordloss

7 years ago


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  • 4,932 posts
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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by jeffreymabq
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There are 4932 posts in this topic. You are on page 99 of 99.
#4901 31 days ago

I went ahead and cleaned the contacts again with a business card and rubbing alcohol. Then realized that the leaf arms on the right spinner seemed to be out of adjustment so I attempted to bend them a little closer together and that seemed to help my DMM continuity test but the game is still giving me an error.

#4902 28 days ago

Part needed. While prepping the PF for hardtop, I broke this micro switch actuator arm. It's not removable so I need the mounting plate as well. Either side will work, bot the same. Thanks in advance!

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#4903 28 days ago
Quoted from Greenfun13:

I have to hold the contacts closed for a quick second before the meter will beep. If I quickly pulse the switch, I get sporadic beeps like it isn't registering all of the contacts.

Sounds like it's still a bit dirty. Try cleaning it again. If that doesn't work, the contacts may be shot to the point that just replacing it is better.
Maybe try cleaning it with a $100 instead of a $50.

#4904 28 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Part needed. While prepping the PF for hardtop, I broke this micro switch actuator arm. It's not removable so I need the mounting plate as well. Either side will work, bot the same. Thanks in advance!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That switch will be easy, just reference it in the manual or from the Williams part catalog online.

#4905 28 days ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Sounds like it's still a bit dirty. Try cleaning it again. If that doesn't work, the contacts may be shot to the point that just replacing it is better.
Maybe try cleaning it with a $100 instead of a $50.

It sure was. Ended up using some business cards I cut into strips and dipped them into rubbing alcohol. That seemed to do the trick!

Also received my warm white LEDs from Comet, as well as the decal set from Mr. Tantrum this weekend. I tore down the playfield plastics to gain access to the existing LEDs, removed the ramp to install the decal, cleaned all the other contacts, cleaned the playfield and then put a few coats of wax down. (Did I just complete my first "shop" job??)

The game plays even smoother now and is much more enjoyable with the warm white LEDs as seen below.

Before:
IMG_20210926_085212 (resized).jpg

After:
IMG_20210926_171151 (resized).jpg

#4906 28 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Part needed. While prepping the PF for hardtop, I broke this micro switch actuator arm. It's not removable so I need the mounting plate as well. Either side will work, bot the same. Thanks in advance!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

A-11043 Ball Deflector & Rollover Wire Assy

Page 347 of Williams Blue parts manual

#4907 27 days ago

You could easily remake that arm with the PBR piano wire sample kit.

Quoted from Lovef2k:

switch actuator arm

#4908 27 days ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

You could easily remake that arm with the PBR piano wire sample kit.

I agree. Buy a piece of hard maple. Pound 2 nails into it and start bending. How I do all my wire bending. I have my HS torn down right now and I have Piano Wire. I might just recreate this. Give me a week and see what I come up with.

Ken

#4909 27 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

A-11043 Ball Deflector & Rollover Wire Assy
Page 347 of Williams Blue parts manual

Is that just the base w actuator or entire assembly with micro. I got D 11047 in the parts manual.

#4910 27 days ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

You could easily remake that arm with the PBR piano wire sample kit.

I actually thought of that. I think I have a piece of .051 wire but not sure if I can make those 90 degree bends that are so close together.

#4911 21 days ago

Is the 1.4 mil default score for an extra ball supposed to drop down over time for some reason? With my old board I saw it go down to 1.2 mil that I remember. New board in game now and I just noticed it's now down to 1.3 mil for an extra ball.

#4912 21 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

Is the 1.4 mil default score for an extra ball supposed to drop down over time for some reason? With my old board I saw it go down to 1.2 mil that I remember. New board in game now and I just noticed it's now down to 1.3 mil for an extra ball.

It goes up and down depending on the average game score. I think it adjusts it every 50 games (going by memory).

#4913 21 days ago

FYI to the group: I have a original backboard that can be used to make a new one if your old one is damaged in any way. I also will make a new one for you as well.

PinPilot was nice enough to share his original with me so I could make a new one and I want to pay it forward, so just putting the information out there. I will be storing this until a fellow pinsider needs it.

Ken

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1 week later
#4914 14 days ago

Hi,

I recently got my paws on a project High Speed and was wondering if someone could take a picture of 1 of the sling coil assemblies showing the position of the leaf switch at the coil?

To me it looks like the wrong arms are installed on the machine.

#4915 14 days ago

That leaf switch is for scoring points. It should be "OPEN" while the sling is at rest and closes to score when the sling is activated. There should also be a diode on it. Here is a pic of my restore (you may need to zoom in a little). There should be a piece of fish tape to prevent metal to metal contact with the sling arm assembly.

Let me know if this clears up your issue.

Congrats getting your paws on a High Speed
IMG_4852 (resized).JPG

#4916 13 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

That leaf switch is for scoring points. It should be "OPEN" while the sling is at rest and closes to score when the sling is activated. There should also be a diode on it. Here is a pic of my restore (you may need to zoom in a little). There should be a piece of fish tape to prevent metal to metal contact with the sling arm assembly.
Let me know if this clears up your issue.

Yes, thank you and it is as I suspected. The kicker arm I have is wrong. The pin/shaft that connects to the plunger is too short (the 1 that activates the scoring leaf). I found A-5652-1 part on Marco but this looks wrong. Does anyone have the correct part number? The manual doesn't seem to show it or I am blind, it shows the one I found on Marco on page 37, but this looks like what I have.

IMG_20211011_170332 (resized).jpg

#4917 13 days ago
Quoted from LongJohns:

Yes, thank you and it is as I suspected. The kicker arm I have is wrong, plus it looks wrong in the parts section in the manual. It shows it as part number A-5652-1 (page 37). the pin that connects to the plunger is too short (the 1 that activates the scoring leaf). Even this part on Marco looks wrong. Does anyone have the correct part number?
[quoted image]

I believe this may be the correct one. B-9463 (A little pricey)

I think the other is for the Hideouts.

Here is Action Pinball but it is out of stock... http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=A-7986

#4918 13 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

I believe this may be the correct one. B-9463 (A little pricey)
I think the other is for the Hideouts.
Here is Action Pinball but it is out of stock... http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=A-7986

I got them from Marco a couple of months ago. They were not on the game specific search. Search by part number.

#4919 13 days ago

This is what you need for HS slings:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-7986

I just installed these on my game and they perfectly.

#4920 13 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

This is what you need for HS slings:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-7986
I just installed these on my game and they perfectly.

work

10
#4921 10 days ago

The biggest repair project I have ever done!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/from-a-pile-of-scrap-to-brand-new-machine-william-s-high-speed-

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#4922 10 days ago

Enjoyed your thread, awesome to see a game brought back from the dead!

#4923 10 days ago

Nice job! Looks great!

#4924 10 days ago

Wow, that's an overhaul! Thanks for saving a classic, hope you enjoy it.

1 week later
#4925 3 days ago
Quoted from Axaios:

The biggest repair project I have ever done! ...

WOW! Well done and thanks for sharing!

#4926 2 days ago

So, this is my first pin an am learning as I go. Thought I blew a fuse the other day (which I have dealt with before) but it sounds like more.

My wife was playing and I heard a knock like a ball hitting the top glass. Then display went weird. We shut it off and turned it on to reset it and everything seems normal but the flippers and start button don't work now.

Thoughts on where to start?

#4927 2 days ago
Quoted from jeffreymabq:

So, this is my first pin an am learning as I go. Thought I blew a fuse the other day (which I have dealt with before) but it sounds like more.
My wife was playing and I heard a knock like a ball hitting the top glass. Then display went weird. We shut it off and turned it on to reset it and everything seems normal but the flippers and start button don't work now.
Thoughts on where to start?

+5 volt regulator caps.
The fuses.

#4928 2 days ago

Might need a little more info to determine what is going on. Have you looked closely at your boards in the head? see if any component has fried?

When you turn on the pin does everything turn on normally? GI lighting, etc?

#4929 2 days ago

A couple of rules questions:

After I run the red light and lock the first ball in the hideout for multiball, sometimes I'll get two ball multiball, sometimes three ball. Why the difference? The only thing I can figure is that with two ball, I'm plunging the second one so fast that the ramp "stopper" doesn't catch it and put it in the other hideout, and once it hits something on the playfield, that's it, no third ball.

When I start multiball, all the red/amber/green inserts in front of the standups are unlit. As I hit them during multiball, they light up, but I don't think I've ever gotten all nine. Is there some bonus score for hitting all nine? Do they then stay lit or go dark and start over again?

Non-rules question:

I have a flat spot in the sheet metal of my apron right above the outhole and the Williams "W" in the circle. Damned if I could figure out why until a few fast balls did a drain under the raised left flipper, hit the wire guide just below it, and went airborne and hit the apron in the flat spot. I'm guessing this is fairly common to High Speed's and not peculiar to mine?

#4930 2 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

A couple of rules questions:
After I run the red light and lock the first ball in the hideout for multiball, sometimes I'll get two ball multiball, sometimes three ball. Why the difference? The only thing I can figure is that with two ball, I'm plunging the second one so fast that the ramp "stopper" doesn't catch it and put it in the other hideout, and once it hits something on the playfield, that's it, no third ball.
When I start multiball, all the red/amber/green inserts in front of the standups are unlit. As I hit them during multiball, they light up, but I don't think I've ever gotten all nine. Is there some bonus score for hitting all nine? Do they then stay lit or go dark and start over again?
Non-rules question:
I have a flat spot in the sheet metal of my apron right above the outhole and the Williams "W" in the circle. Damned if I could figure out why until a few fast balls did a drain under the raised left flipper, hit the wire guide just below it, and went airborne and hit the apron in the flat spot. I'm guessing this is fairly common to High Speed's and not peculiar to mine?

A hideout switch could be activating... the second backup switch, could think that two balls are in hideout so it kicks balls out...
1) relite the stop light targets is done for eject lock.

#4931 2 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

A couple of rules questions:
After I run the red light and lock the first ball in the hideout for multiball, sometimes I'll get two ball multiball, sometimes three ball. Why the difference? The only thing I can figure is that with two ball, I'm plunging the second one so fast that the ramp "stopper" doesn't catch it and put it in the other hideout, and once it hits something on the playfield, that's it, no third ball.
When I start multiball, all the red/amber/green inserts in front of the standups are unlit. As I hit them during multiball, they light up, but I don't think I've ever gotten all nine. Is there some bonus score for hitting all nine? Do they then stay lit or go dark and start over again?
Non-rules question:
I have a flat spot in the sheet metal of my apron right above the outhole and the Williams "W" in the circle. Damned if I could figure out why until a few fast balls did a drain under the raised left flipper, hit the wire guide just below it, and went airborne and hit the apron in the flat spot. I'm guessing this is fairly common to High Speed's and not peculiar to mine?

I have a second HS that works but I never really played it yet. Doing a hardtop right now but the opening of the apron hood behind the flippers is all peened on the edge. I was baffled by this so yes this could be a common problem. My other HS that I have had for years never done this. The only thing I can think of is that the buffer wires below the flippers are not down all the way. Or maybe incorrect pitch of the pf. I think the recommended pitch is 6 degrees?

#4932 2 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Might need a little more info to determine what is going on. Have you looked closely at your boards in the head? see if any component has fried?
When you turn on the pin does everything turn on normally? GI lighting, etc?

Sorry, everything looks normal and all the fuses are fine.
When I power on everything works fine except the buttons. I ran through all the music test, light test - everything seems ok.

There are 4932 posts in this topic. You are on page 99 of 99.

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