(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

By lordloss

7 years ago


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There are 4882 posts in this topic. You are on page 98 of 98.
#4851 12 days ago

I bought a replacement LED bulb for the beacon.
It is 5 smd. From my usual LED supplier.

It is not as bright as the original incandescent.
Has anyone run into this?

It is supposed to be the correct 28v LED replacement

#4852 12 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Can I test the transistors on board with diode setting, if so, how? My flashers are out behind back glass.

Yes. There are videos on U-tube on this. As for your flashers not working, start by using a jumper wire hooked to ground and briefly touch the other end to the metal tab of correct transistor. If the flashers light with the jumper, then you have a board issue. If the flashers don't light with the jumper then you have a bad dropping resistor or burnt out bulb.

#4853 12 days ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

I bought a replacement LED bulb for the beacon.
It is 5 smd. From my usual LED supplier.
It is not as bright as the original incandescent.
Has anyone run into this?
It is supposed to be the correct 28v LED replacement

IMHO a 5 SMD led is equal to a #89 bulb. A #1683 bulb is 4 times more powerful than a #89. I converted my F-14 to 12 volt DC so I could #89 bulbs. Then I used these bulbs from Comet in red, white and blue.

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#4854 12 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

IMHO a 5 SMD led is equal to a #89 bulb. A #1683 bulb is 4 times more powerful than a #89. I converted my F-14 to 12 volt DC so I could #89 bulbs. Then I used these bulbs from Comet in red, white and blue.
[quoted image]

How hard is it to convert the beacon to 12 volts? Tried the led from Comet that is supposed to work in the beacon but found it wasn't as bright as the incan.

#4855 12 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

How hard is it to convert the beacon to 12 volts? Tried the led from Comet that is supposed to work in the beacon but found it wasn't as bright as the incan.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f-14-tomcat-beacon-diy-step-down-voltage-regulator#post-3007261

#4856 12 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Yes. There are videos on U-tube on this. As for your flashers not working, start by using a jumper wire hooked to ground and briefly touch the other end to the metal tab of correct transistor. If the flashers light with the jumper, then you have a board issue. If the flashers don't light with the jumper then you have a bad dropping resistor or burnt out bulb.

Success! I changed out Q32 and 18, all good now. The backbox flashers are working now with new bulbs and cleaning the sockets. For a while only the left 2 lamps were lighting, then none. I was thinking these were paired like the PF flashers but I see all for are driven by one transistor. I think you said earlier that these are wired in series so if one bulb is out the other won't light? When ohming the warming resistors, I was getting 168 ohms on the 330 ohm resistors, but I think it was picking up the entire circuit or the two 330 ohms were paralleled since there are 2 warming circuits in the back box? It's been almost 40 years since I took electronics in school but I remember some of ohm's law. To get the total resistance from a circuit of paralleled resistors, you take the reciprocal of each resistor value then add them together? Heck IDK!

Another goofy thing I did tonight, I have an extra sys 11 CPU that I bought maybe 8-10 years ago and has been sitting since. Was supposedly good when purchased, no corrosion at all. I wanted to try it before fixing the other CPU. I had 2 locked coils, both specials and almost smoked the left pop and left sling. That would be Q69 and 75.

After fixing original CPU and putting it back in and plugging in connectors, I noticed 1J18 is keyed at pin 1. This was stupid because I may have been off by a pin previously on the spare CPU causing those coils to lock on. What puzzled me was that the coil fuse was not in the board, yet the coils came on. Now I see what all the fuss is about special solenoids.

#4857 12 days ago

Thanks Grumpy.
That LED conversion board for the beacon is the way to go!

#4858 10 days ago

Almost forgot- A few months ago I was having issues getting the ball to go all the way up the ramp on launch. While I had my play field out I removed the wooden side rail next to the ball trough. The ball would lean against the right side and not sit down in the slot in the play field which seemed like it would create a lot of drag. At least that's what they would say during the bobsled runs at the Olympics- don't touch the wall! I ran the side rail through my table saw and took 1/8" off of the inside edge. I ran the cut up until it's hidden under the "Don't drink and drive" plastic, where I stopped the cut rather than go all the way. Had to cut the spiral nails down when I re-installed the metal side piece. Ball has about 3/32" space between it and the right side of the trough now. Makes the ramp shots with ease now!

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#4859 10 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

Almost forgot- A few months ago I was having issues getting the ball to go all the way up the ramp on launch. While I had my play field out I removed the wooden side rail next to the ball trough. The ball would lean against the right side and not sit down in the slot in the play field which seemed like it would create a lot of drag. At least that's what they would say during the bobsled runs at the Olympics- don't touch the wall! I ran the side rail through my table saw and took 1/8" off of the inside edge. I ran the cut up until it's hidden under the "Don't drink and drive" plastic, where I stopped the cut rather than go all the way. Had to cut the spiral nails down when I re-installed the metal side piece. Ball has about 3/32" space between it and the right side of the trough now. Makes the ramp shots with ease now!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I remember this. Did you ever check the shooter spring? It should be the red one, extra strong. It seems that your PF has some extreme wear on the shooter lane that causes the ball to sit off center? Or the shooter rod is too short? Maybe somebody changed it at some point with the wrong type? I'm guessing this solved your problem though?

#4860 10 days ago

Almost done my swap. This is number 10 for me and so far the most complicated. Just waiting for Cliffy flipper return guides that I just found out about. Notice far right spinner is black. These are NOS, IDK where the black came from but I installed it anyway.

Thanks to Freeplay40 for the red ramp option.
Thanks to @Robtune for the traffic light mod.
Thanks to Comet for the non-ghosting LED option.
Thanks for PBR for having parts for the ramp diverter and other needed parts.
Thanks to PBL for the Britecaps and other parts needed.
Thanks to Mark Klein for selling the NOS pf and plastics to me.
Thanks to annex (Andrew Parent) for beautiful clear coat job.
Thanks to PinPilot for sharing his upper flasher mod.
And thanks to everyone else on this thread for answering my questions.

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#4861 10 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I remember this. Did you ever check the shooter spring? It should be the red one, extra strong. It seems that your PF has some extreme wear on the shooter lane that causes the ball to sit off center? Or the shooter rod is too short? Maybe somebody changed it at some point with the wrong type? I'm guessing this solved your problem though?

Did replace rod and spring with red one. Groove and rod are not centered in trough.

#4862 10 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Almost done my swap. This is number 10 for me and so far the most complicated. Just waiting for Cliffy flipper return guides that I just found out about. Notice far right spinner is black. These are NOS, IDK where the black came from but I installed it anyway.
Thanks to Freeplay40 for the red ramp option.
Thanks to @Robtune for the traffic light mod.
Thanks to Comet for the non-ghosting LED option.
Thanks for PBR for having parts for the ramp diverter and other needed parts.
Thanks to PBL for the Britecaps and other parts needed.
Thanks to Mark Klein for selling the NOS pf and plastics to me.
Thanks to annex (Andrew Parent) for beautiful clear coat job.
Thanks to PinPilot for sharing his upper flasher mod.
And thanks to everyone else on this thread for answering my questions.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice job, Do you have a parts list of what you replaced? Always good to know what you changed? Who did your rails? I like that color choice.

Ken

#4863 10 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Nice job, Do you have a parts list of what you replaced? Always good to know what you changed? Who did your rails? I like that color choice.
Ken

Thanks!

The rails were done by a local shop. I have an extra set in the same color on the Market Place.

I basically rebuilt all of the mechanicals except the saucer eject. I did put a new plunger and coil sleeve though.

Pops totally rebuilt with all new parts.
Flippers all rebuilt. Original plates were good.
New hideout kicker arm assemblies and pivots. New micros on the top side of pf for the hideouts.
New kicker arm assemblies and pivot on slings. New sling switches.
New switches for the star rollover buttons.
Overhaul on the ball diverter, new shaft assemblies, coil stop, plunger, sleeve, springs, cranks and bushings. Had the main assembly nickel plated.
Installed new faces on the standup targets, new switch pads behind them.
NOS plastics
NOS spinners
reused red post after running through dishwasher.
Tumbled hardware and metal posts.
Re-grained the ball guides.
All new flasher lamp sockets.
New GI sockets.
Comet LED's.
New outhole kicker assembly.
replaced kickback relay
Replaced 100 uF caps for snubber relays.
Cleaned all feature lamp sockets with brass wire attachment on Dremel.
Cleaned all other switch contacts with a dollar bill.
I did not wash the harness in fear of getting the snubber relays wet or damaging all the diodes throughout the playfield. It wasn't that dirty to begin with.
I added 3 pin connectors to the ball feed and kickback coils for easy change out if ever needed.
Have a repro apron (not pictured) that I bought 10 years ago. I don't remember who made them, maybe Merf?

#4864 10 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Thanks!
The rails were done by a local shop. I have an extra set in the same color on the Market Place.
I basically rebuilt all of the mechanicals except the saucer eject. I did put a new plunger and coil sleeve though.
Pops totally rebuilt with all new parts.
Flippers all rebuilt. Original plates were good.
New hideout kicker arm assemblies and pivots. New micros on the top side of pf for the hideouts.
New kicker arm assemblies and pivot on slings. New sling switches.
New switches for the star rollover buttons.
Overhaul on the ball diverter, new shaft assemblies, coil stop, plunger, sleeve, springs, cranks and bushings. Had the main assembly nickel plated.
Installed new faces on the standup targets, new switch pads behind them.
NOS plastics
NOS spinners
reused red post after running through dishwasher.
Tumbled hardware and metal posts.
Re-grained the ball guides.
All new flasher lamp sockets.
New GI sockets.
Comet LED's.
New outhole kicker assembly.
replaced kickback relay
Replaced 100 uF caps for snubber relays.
Cleaned all feature lamp sockets with brass wire attachment on Dremel.
Cleaned all other switch contacts with a dollar bill.
I did not wash the harness in fear of getting the snubber relays wet or damaging all the diodes throughout the playfield. It wasn't that dirty to begin with.
I added 3 pin connectors to the ball feed and kickback coils for easy change out if ever needed.
Have a repro apron (not pictured) that I bought 10 years ago. I don't remember who made them, maybe Merf?

Thank you so much, gonna check out those rails.

#4865 9 days ago

That looks incredible with the red ramp AND the red rails. Fantastic work.

#4866 8 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

How hard is it to convert the beacon to 12 volts? Tried the led from Comet that is supposed to work in the beacon but found it wasn't as bright as the incan.

I made my own conversion using a bridge to rectify and then a simple DC-DC buck converter, dialed it down to 12V and used a red #1156 bulb that you can get at any automotive store or online. Or you can use any bulb with the same base, such as #89. I did this to my High Speed and my friend's F14 Tomcat as well, the picture is from the F14, the converter is in the top right corner

12v conversion (resized).jpg
#4867 8 days ago

A pack of (10) of 1683 bulbs is $3.79 from o'reilly auto parts.

#4868 8 days ago

LoveF2k, that looks amazing! Well done!

#4869 8 days ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

LoveF2k, that looks amazing! Well done!

Thanks! I can't wait to play it.

#4870 5 days ago

I am intrigued by Ingo's diagram showing a jumper on the board he designed for this mod to be able to select bulb or led use. Is that correct that using 2 10w resistors in parallel makes them function as the required 5w resistor for the leds to work?

#4871 4 days ago

Has anyone installed mirror blades on their HS? If so, where did you get them?

#4872 4 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Almost done my swap. This is number 10 for me and so far the most complicated. Just waiting for Cliffy flipper return guides that I just found out about. Notice far right spinner is black. These are NOS, IDK where the black came from but I installed it anyway.
Thanks to Freeplay40 for the red ramp option.
Thanks to @Robtune for the traffic light mod.
Thanks to Comet for the non-ghosting LED option.
Thanks for PBR for having parts for the ramp diverter and other needed parts.
Thanks to PBL for the Britecaps and other parts needed.
Thanks to Mark Klein for selling the NOS pf and plastics to me.
Thanks to annex (Andrew Parent) for beautiful clear coat job.
Thanks to PinPilot for sharing his upper flasher mod.
And thanks to everyone else on this thread for answering my questions.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great. Keep the pics coming!

#4873 4 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

I am intrigued by Ingo's diagram showing a jumper on the board he designed for this mod to be able to select bulb or led use. Is that correct that using 2 10w resistors in parallel makes them function as the required 5w resistor for the leds to work?

I think this is this is the diagram your referring to. Well there are a few issues with this, Mel said to use a 50 ohm resistor for the leds and a 10 ohm resistor for incandescent. Ingo's first diagram shows a 5 ohm resistor instead of a 50 ohm, might be a typo or something. When he made his second diagram he had 5 ohm stuck in his brain and made a circuit for that instead of 50 ohm. The reason I say this is because when you parallel two 10 ohm resistors together the combined ohms is 5 ohms. Now this circuit can be made to work correctly by doing two things, first is replace R-1 with a 50 ohm 5 watt resistor. Second would be to move the jumper connection to the other side of the resistors and connect the outputs of both resistors together and to the lamps. As for the jumper connections, R-2 connects to the bottom pin, R-1 connects to the top pin and the output from the bridge connects to the middle pin. Something like this.

pasted_image (resized).pngwww (resized).jpg
#4874 3 days ago

Just finished testing the new under cabinet lighting circuit that I designed and programmed using an Arduino microcontroller. The ambient lighting is green and is dimmable in a steady state, or can be set to "breathe", then shuts off when the rotating beacon activates and the red and blue flash. All the patterns can be changed within the software and so far my favorite pattern is: the red and blue lights strobe for 5 sets of 5 quick strobes, then 5 sets of quick solid back and forth flashes then the cycle repeats. Adds a whole new level to the police chase. Here are a couple quick videos of the results, with the green lighting set to breathe.


#4875 3 days ago
Quoted from Teejay68:

Just finished testing the new under cabinet lighting circuit that I designed and programmed using an Arduino microcontroller. The ambient lighting is green and is dimmable in a steady state, or can be set to "breathe", then shuts off when the rotating beacon activates and the red and blue flash. All the patterns can be changed within the software and so far my favorite pattern is: the red and blue lights strobe for 5 sets of 5 quick strobes, then 5 sets of quick solid back and forth flashes then the cycle repeats. Adds a whole new level to the police chase. Here are a couple quick videos of the results, with the green lighting set to breathe.

very cool

#4876 2 days ago

Big thank you to Ghengisgord and Langless28 for helping with the 3D stoplight file. I was able to get it printed. Looks like it was there from the beginning.

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#4877 2 days ago
Quoted from STLOkie:

That looks incredible with the red ramp AND the red rails. Fantastic work.

Thanks! Nice work on the traffic light mod! I love those custom spinner decals also, very clever.

#4878 20 hours ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I think this is this is the diagram your referring to. Well there are a few issues with this, Mel said to use a 50 ohm resistor for the leds and a 10 ohm resistor for incandescent. Ingo's first diagram shows a 5 ohm resistor instead of a 50 ohm, might be a typo or something. When he made his second diagram he had 5 ohm stuck in his brain and made a circuit for that instead of 50 ohm. The reason I say this is because when you parallel two 10 ohm resistors together the combined ohms is 5 ohms. Now this circuit can be made to work correctly by doing two things, first is replace R-1 with a 50 ohm 5 watt resistor. Second would be to move the jumper connection to the other side of the resistors and connect the outputs of both resistors together and to the lamps. As for the jumper connections, R-2 connects to the bottom pin, R-1 connects to the top pin and the output from the bridge connects to the middle pin. Something like this.
[quoted image][quoted image]

First of all Mel had a bit of a typo. I wasn't sure if she meant 5 watt 5 ohm or 5 watt 50 ohm. She typed "5Ohm" and I wasn't sure what she meant so of course I bought the 5 ohm size. Need to pick up some 50 ohm resistors.

As far as Ingo's diagram, I am definitely a novice in the electronics world, but with the way he shows the jumper on pins 1 and 2 doesn't that parallel the 10 watt resistors to give a 5 watt output to the lamps?

Just read your post again and I think it finally sunk in, didn't understand what you were getting at the first time with the jumper relocation. I did get 2 of the 10watt/10 ohm resistors so maybe I can make it work with Ingo's diagram if his jumper set up is correct for 2 of the 10 watts.

#4879 20 hours ago
Quoted from Teejay68:

Just finished testing the new under cabinet lighting circuit that I designed and programmed using an Arduino microcontroller. The ambient lighting is green and is dimmable in a steady state, or can be set to "breathe", then shuts off when the rotating beacon activates and the red and blue flash. All the patterns can be changed within the software and so far my favorite pattern is: the red and blue lights strobe for 5 sets of 5 quick strobes, then 5 sets of quick solid back and forth flashes then the cycle repeats. Adds a whole new level to the police chase. Here are a couple quick videos of the results, with the green lighting set to breathe.

I like it. Is it as bright as it seems in the video? I might want it toned down a bit, hard to say from the video. Are you planning on doing a how to, or selling units?

#4880 20 hours ago

Who was making police light bars for the highway? They look amazing. Also are the police cars from the getaway machine? I am digging the addon mods

#4881 16 hours ago
Quoted from Conrad:

Who was making police light bars for the highway? They look amazing. Also are the police cars from the getaway machine? I am digging the addon mods

That is arakissun who sells the police light mod. I bought a set from them and they work great. He only has a couple left for sale.

As for the police cars I just bought a set of scale 1/64 cars off Amazon of the style I liked.

#4882 1 hour ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

I like it. Is it as bright as it seems in the video? I might want it toned down a bit, hard to say from the video. Are you planning on doing a how to, or selling units?

It's not as bright as it seems in the videos, the camera even picks up the playfield lighting and makes it seem brighter too. In a totally dark room it is pretty intense but not blinding, I may revise the circuit and re-write a portion of the program to add dimming to the strobe strips if it bothers me or I can change the flash patterns in the software to be less intense, I have only played a dozen or so games so far.
All of my electronics/Arduino projects that I do are just a one-off hobby, so I hand build the circuits on perfboard after testing on a breadboard. I could write a how to and share my circuit and Arduino code if someone was interested, and I may get a few PCB's made once I am happy with a final design, I am designing a lighted shooter plate cover that is lit all the time and then flashes more brightly when a ball is waiting in the lane to be plunged, and this would be added to the same board and program too.
Here are a few pics of the board, lightstrips, and schematic that is currently installed:

20210913_212443 (resized).jpg20210913_234419 (resized).jpgcircuit (resized).jpg
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