(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

By lordloss

7 years ago


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#4751 79 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

If you edit the stickers, send me a PM, I would pay you for your time to make me stickers for my area CLE, Ohio
Ken

Ok I spent an hour or so working these up. Will pop them on the machine later. I can send you my file if you want edit the highways yourself or I could mock up some for you if you give me a few points of interest/highways you would like to highlight. I’m out of sticker paper but I could print and mail to you later if you don’t have a printer.

I was going to use the “exit only” sign as my hide out spinner.

image (resized).jpg
#4752 79 days ago
Quoted from STLOkie:

Ok I spent an hour or so working these up. Will pop them on the machine later. I can send you my file if you want edit the highways yourself or I could mock up some for you if you give me a few points of interest/highways you would like to highlight. I’m out of sticker paper but I could print and mail to you later if you don’t have a printer.
I was going to use the “exit only” sign as my hide out spinner.
[quoted image]

Those are just too freaking cool. Nice job.

#4753 79 days ago

Ok I got them on. Super happy with how it turned out for the low energy it took to make. I’ll upload my word file to goolge and share it for anyone who wants a template.

49FDD605-A18E-4B3D-8A7A-243EB79EAB71 (resized).jpeg
#4754 79 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Why not us staple down on both sides?

The down side is that the #44/#47 lamps, do to heat, would burn the rubber rings and
cause premature deterioration. AKA service calls.
One must remember some slingshot kickers are very small and space is very tight.

If you look at game designs back in the day, you would find extra post & pins to drees the rubber rings away from the heat of the GI lamps.

#4755 79 days ago

Here's a link to the word file containing the spinner signs template. I also have an added signed above the jet bumpers that most won't have, just delete those two if you don't want them, or simply add them to that metal part for extra goodness. I was able to find vector images for each interstate image by just typing the interstate name and "vector" into google search.

If you are having trouble just shoot me a PM and I can help make a set for you.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YgojEc2zEl0qp0dGWZ0Fmy87wR-Vyp4l/view?usp=sharing

#4756 78 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

The down side is that the #44/#47 lamps, do to heat, would burn the rubber rings and
cause premature deterioration. AKA service calls.
One must remember some slingshot kickers are very small and space is very tight.
If you look at game designs back in the day, you would find extra post & pins to drees the rubber rings away from the heat of the GI lamps.

Ok gotchya. Thats the beauty when using LEDs.

#4758 77 days ago

Can anyone explain the difference between WMS coil AE-23-800-01, AE-23-800-02 and AE-23-800-03 etc.? I noticed during my swap and changing a sling shot coil sleeve that the sleeve was very hard to remove indicating that the coil must have swelled at one point. Although it worked fine, I want to replace it while I have it apart. The slings, pops, saucer and lane feed are 03 , hideouts, 02, the ball diverter 01. Kickback is 24-900-01.

The WMS Blue book for HS shows one AE-23-800-01, one -02, seven -03 and three -05, my game has no -05.

#4759 77 days ago

I believe the -XX specifies different kinds of coil sleeves. There is no difference in the coil itself.

#4760 77 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

I believe the -XX specifies different kinds of coil sleeves. There is no difference in the coil itself.

Oh geez! Thanks, that make sense.

#4761 77 days ago

I ran into another snag, this time it's the sling shot kicker arm. There is no diagram in either the manual or the WMS parts catalog for sling shot parts, only show the hideout kickers which have a different pivot arm, no plastic tip or long striker arm. Marco said this part will work in HS, A-12664. It does work but the striker arm is too short to activate the score switch and the hairpin groove spacing is off from the original.

If anybody has replaced theirs, what did you use? Can the plastic tip be changed like Ballys?

#4762 76 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I ran into another snag, this time it's the sling shot kicker arm. There is no diagram in either the manual or the WMS parts catalog for sling shot parts, only show the hideout kickers which have a different pivot arm, no plastic tip or long striker arm. Marco said this part will work in HS, A-12664. It does work but the striker arm is too short to activate the score switch and the hairpin groove spacing is off from the original.
If anybody has replaced theirs, what did you use? Can the plastic tip be changed like Ballys?

I don't know why I didn't think of this earlier. I have my friend's Cyclone here for board work and I looked at the slings. Same as HS but Cyc doesn't need the striker arm even though it has them. The Cyc has a separate parts manual that actually shows the sling assys. and the kicker arm is A-7986. Marco has them even though they are not listed under HS game specific parts duh!

#4763 76 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:Can anyone explain the difference between WMS coil AE-23-800-01, AE-23-800-02 and AE-23-800-03 etc.? I noticed during my swap and changing a sling shot coil sleeve that the sleeve was very hard to remove indicating that the coil must have swelled at one point. Although it worked fine, I want to replace it while I have it apart. The slings, pops, saucer and lane feed are 03 , hideouts, 02, the ball diverter 01. Kickback is 24-900-01.
The WMS Blue book for HS shows one AE-23-800-01, one -02, seven -03 and three -05, my game has no -05.

It has to do with the solder lug positions and diode positions and coil sleeves.

#4764 76 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Can anyone explain the difference between WMS coil AE-23-800-01, AE-23-800-02 and AE-23-800-03 etc.? I noticed during my swap and changing a sling shot coil sleeve that the sleeve was very hard to remove indicating that the coil must have swelled at one point. Although it worked fine, I want to replace it while I have it apart. The slings, pops, saucer and lane feed are 03 , hideouts, 02, the ball diverter 01. Kickback is 24-900-01.
The WMS Blue book for HS shows one AE-23-800-01, one -02, seven -03 and three -05, my game has no -05.

Quoted from vec-tor:

It has to do with the solder lug positions and diode positions and coil sleeves.

The first part of the solenoid identifier is "AE", "AL" or "AR". That defines the position of the lugs to which the magnet wire is attached. There are three solenoid lug positions. Think of them as 1, 2 and 3.

  • AL = 1 + 2 = LEFT.
  • AR = 2 + 3 = RIGHT.
  • AE = 1 + 3 = END.

The second number is the wire gauge. The third number is the number of turns. The fourth number is the diode (if present) and its position. I don't know which numbers correspond to which positions as most of my experience is with machines where Williams moved the diode to the boards in backbox.

Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

I believe the -XX specifies different kinds of coil sleeves. There is no difference in the coil itself.

To find the correct sleeve to use consult the manual. Unfortunately the High Speed manual is a little anemic when it comes to details. The most commonly used non-flanged sleeve is 03-7066. I believe the most commonly used flanged sleeves are 03-7067 and 03-7067-3. The sleeve is unrelated to the solenoid as the same solenoid can be used in circumstances that require a non-flanged sleeve or a flanged sleeve.

#4765 72 days ago

Finally got my High Speed back up and running. Picked it up a couple weeks ago. It was filthy. I cleaned the playfield. Touched up the paint. Replaced all the LEDs under the playfield. Clear coated it. Put new rubbers on it and changed the pop bumper skirts and body's. It turned out great.

PXL_20210815_001332651.MP (resized).jpg

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#4766 72 days ago

Wow, 2 weeks. That is a fast turn around! Well done!

#4767 71 days ago

Will try and keep this short but here goes....
Three months ago I had a pop bumper lock on and fry during a game. Pulled the playfield and completely rebuilt the pop bumpers. Did a few other chores while I had it out and also found some frayed wires that I repaired. Grumpy was gracious enough to do some noob hand-holding and guide me through some cpu repair related to the special solenoid section. I would have to look at the board to refresh my memory but I think I wound up replacing Q72,Q73, U45, U49, U50 and SR20. Basically Grumpy would have me test something and advise me on replacement. I would order parts, wait for the mail, replace and retest. Was taking a bit of time with all the back and forth and I had an issue with Pinside no longer letting me send images in messages. Main issue at this point is that 1J18 is not getting 5 volts on the solenoid pins and causes the solenoids to act eradically, locking on, not firing, etc.. I can't thank Grumpy enough for his help and patience with me. Somewhere around this time the wife started squeaking about how long things were taking. She wanted to play, had some family over she wanted to play, etc. I started looking into local repair people. Several said they don't work on system 11s, others outright ghosted me. So I got desperate. Looked into Rottendog boards. Online reviews are extremely hit and miss with them it seems. Contacted a dealer who had them in stock and also contacted Rottendog to express my concerns with reported issues with them. The dealer was not familiar with issues that other people have had. Rottendog says use the newest roms and new processors and it will be fine. It was not fine. Had the same sounds issues many others complained about and it was also making my playfield lights flash along with random sounds, especially the engine revving sound. Was able to return board for a full refund. At this time I had also looked into Dumbass's boards. Initially he indicated that with his work load it might take a few weeks to get me a board which is one reason I tried the Rottendog as I was able to get it in a few days. Hindsight is always a wonderful thing..... I was fortunate enough that Dumbass wound up with a board that was for someone else but they cancelled so I purchased it. Enter the United States Postal Service. It was shipped with 2 day shipping. Two days after shipping it showed it went to a processing center where it promptly disappeared into the void of lost packages for two weeks. Tracking showed nothing for 15 days and then it shows arrived at my post office and it's out for delivery. Also had a Christmas card delivered in February this year. Don't ask me what I think about the USPS right now. So I finally get my Dumbass board. This thing is sexy! First off the boards are red if you are unfamiliar with them. Everything is clean and precise and perfect looking. It looks like a machine built it. I hate hiding it in my back box. So the chowder head installer(me) accidentally cross-pinned one connection and fried a few fuses and had to wait until Monday to pick some up. Another long story short and it wasn't functioning properly. Turned out I needed to replace one of the PIA chips which Dumbass sent me a replacement for. Game is spot on now! Sound is great, rebuilt pop bumpers are banging, everything works and I'm ecstatic to have my High Speed back again! It actually is working better than before. I had swapped out my flashers for leds(yes I cut the warming resistors), and they have been flickering, especially when pushing the flipper buttons. They are not flickering now. My green traffic light lamp at the ramp entrance was also acting wonky and it has also been steady since I put the new board in. Maybe I jiggled something, maybe it's the board, I am not an expert, you tell me. Honestly I can't say enough good things about the new board and Dumbass's outstanding service and communication. If you need new board I would highly recommend them.

20210730_194430 (resized).jpg20210730_194442 (resized).jpg20210730_194447 (resized).jpg4EIOCwkztiPhS (resized).png
#4768 71 days ago

Happy ending!

#4769 71 days ago

Anyone know if there’s a “generic” replacement motor for the beacon that’s not $60+? My gearbox is fine, if that matters. Just the actual coil needed really. But figure the motor is prob more common than a dedicated pinball part?

#4770 71 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

Will try and keep this short but here goes....
Three months ago I had a pop bumper lock on and fry during a game. Pulled the playfield and completely rebuilt the pop bumpers. Did a few other chores while I had it out and also found some frayed wires that I repaired. Grumpy was gracious enough to do some noob hand-holding and guide me through some cpu repair related to the special solenoid section. I would have to look at the board to refresh my memory but I think I wound up replacing Q72,Q73, U45, U49, U50 and SR20. Basically Grumpy would have me test something and advise me on replacement. I would order parts, wait for the mail, replace and retest. Was taking a bit of time with all the back and forth and I had an issue with Pinside no longer letting me send images in messages. Main issue at this point is that 1J18 is not getting 5 volts on the solenoid pins and causes the solenoids to act eradically, locking on, not firing, etc.. I can't thank Grumpy enough for his help and patience with me. Somewhere around this time the wife started squeaking about how long things were taking. She wanted to play, had some family over she wanted to play, etc. I started looking into local repair people. Several said they don't work on system 11s, others outright ghosted me. So I got desperate. Looked into Rottendog boards. Online reviews are extremely hit and miss with them it seems. Contacted a dealer who had them in stock and also contacted Rottendog to express my concerns with reported issues with them. The dealer was not familiar with issues that other people have had. Rottendog says use the newest roms and new processors and it will be fine. It was not fine. Had the same sounds issues many others complained about and it was also making my playfield lights flash along with random sounds, especially the engine revving sound. Was able to return board for a full refund. At this time I had also looked into Dumbass's boards. Initially he indicated that with his work load it might take a few weeks to get me a board which is one reason I tried the Rottendog as I was able to get it in a few days. Hindsight is always a wonderful thing..... I was fortunate enough that Dumbass wound up with a board that was for someone else but they cancelled so I purchased it. Enter the United States Postal Service. It was shipped with 2 day shipping. Two days after shipping it showed it went to a processing center where it promptly disappeared into the void of lost packages for two weeks. Tracking showed nothing for 15 days and then it shows arrived at my post office and it's out for delivery. Also had a Christmas card delivered in February this year. Don't ask me what I think about the USPS right now. So I finally get my Dumbass board. This thing is sexy! First off the boards are red if you are unfamiliar with them. Everything is clean and precise and perfect looking. It looks like a machine built it. I hate hiding it in my back box. So the chowder head installer(me) accidentally cross-pinned one connection and fried a few fuses and had to wait until Monday to pick some up. Another long story short and it wasn't functioning properly. Turned out I needed to replace one of the PIA chips which Dumbass sent me a replacement for. Game is spot on now! Sound is great, rebuilt pop bumpers are banging, everything works and I'm ecstatic to have my High Speed back again! It actually is working better than before. I had swapped out my flashers for leds(yes I cut the warming resistors), and they have been flickering, especially when pushing the flipper buttons. They are not flickering now. My green traffic light lamp at the ramp entrance was also acting wonky and it has also been steady since I put the new board in. Maybe I jiggled something, maybe it's the board, I am not an expert, you tell me. Honestly I can't say enough good things about the new board and Dumbass's outstanding service and communication. If you need new board I would highly recommend them.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That was a great story! Somebody from the following thread turned me on to DumbAss boards. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-system-11-bullet-proofing-thread

I agree the red is a sexy looking board. I have been working on 2 HS games. I'm currently about 75% through a swap now. In the mean time, a friend was having issues with a Cyclone System 11B game. His MPU has corrosion and I was preparing to fix the board. When I got into de-soldering, I realized I may not ever get the board to work and if I did, it would probably fail or have issues later. He and I agreed that the DumbAss board is the way to go. Letting him do the soldering for the 11B and I'm ordering a blank board for one of these HS pins and will give it a go on soldering in the components.

Why is it that the package you want the most always seems to get in mail, UGH!

#4771 70 days ago

On a side note, now that my game is working, I still need to fix the 2,000 rpm lamp on the playfield tachometer. Once in a while it works but it mostly doesn't. Should I be replacing the diode that I can't read or should I be looking to replace the lamp socket? Thought I saw someone else switched to individual sockets as they couldn't find the 5 gang sockets like the original.

#4772 70 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

On a side note, now that my game is working, I still need to fix the 2,000 rpm lamp on the playfield tachometer. Once in a while it works but it mostly doesn't. Should I be replacing the diode that I can't read or should I be looking to replace the lamp socket? Thought I saw someone else switched to individual sockets as they couldn't find the 5 gang sockets like the original.

It's the socket, diodes either work or not. Try bending the outer metal in a bit so that it makes the bulb a tighter fit. Clean the inside with a brush if it's corroded.

#4773 70 days ago

my phone took a swim in the pool
Unfortunately it also had all my tear down pics for my High Speed.
If anyone here has a file of pics they could send me from their own tear down, that would be unbelievably helpful. I installed a Hardtop while i was unable to work. Im all good and healthy and wanting to work on my games again but this was my first playfield teardown and im going to feel very confused, very soon lol. Thanks.

#4774 70 days ago

I have a project High Speed that I am using for a retheme project so lots of parts I will most likely not use. Tested MPU, sound and driver boards, power supply, transformer, backglass (nice condition), displays, plastics, some other stuff. If anyone needs something, just message me.

#4775 70 days ago
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:

my phone took a swim in the pool
Unfortunately it also had all my tear down pics for my High Speed.
If anyone here has a file of pics they could send me from their own tear down, that would be unbelievably helpful. I installed a Hardtop while i was unable to work. Im all good and healthy and wanting to work on my games again but this was my first playfield teardown and im going to feel very confused, very soon lol. Thanks.

This site should be helpful:
http://www.theteardown.com/gallery/categories.php

If there’s anything you need that’s not in there just holler.

#4776 70 days ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

This site should be helpful:
http://www.theteardown.com/gallery/categories.php
If there’s anything you need that’s not in there just holler.

Cool site. Never seen that before.

#4777 70 days ago
Quoted from Palmer:

I have a project High Speed that I am using for a retheme project so lots of parts I will most likely not use. Tested MPU, sound and driver boards, power supply, transformer, backglass (nice condition), displays, plastics, some other stuff. If anyone needs something, just message me.

Do you happen to have this plastic. Between the pops and the right traffic targets. Mine came with this hand painted (though well done) piece.

20210817_121508 (resized).jpg
#4778 70 days ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

This site should be helpful:
http://www.theteardown.com/gallery/categories.php
If there’s anything you need that’s not in there just holler.

Thanks

#4779 70 days ago

KnockerPTSD there is a chance I have the plastic part you need that is new. My machine came with several new plastic pieces. I’ll check for it when I get home and send you a message.

#4780 69 days ago

That plastic would be almost perfect if they painted it from behind.

#4781 69 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

It's the socket, diodes either work or not. Try bending the outer metal in a bit so that it makes the bulb a tighter fit. Clean the inside with a brush if it's corroded.

Am embarrassed to say that the bulb burnt out-again!

#4782 69 days ago

Anyone one else have issues with the ball going up the San Diego(?) Freeway into the saucer? Minimum %50 of the time it skitters around the lip and doesn't drop in. Doesn't look like there's any adjustment anywhere other than bending the metal angle down a bit which I'm not sure would help.

#4783 69 days ago

Has any put in a pinsound shaker motor in and would they recommend it? I am going to be putting in a pinsound sound card and speakers and thinking about putting a shaker motor in.

#4784 69 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

Anyone one else have issues with the ball going up the San Diego(?) Freeway into the saucer? Minimum %50 of the time it skitters around the lip and doesn't drop in. Doesn't look like there's any adjustment anywhere other than bending the metal angle down a bit which I'm not sure would help.

Perhaps the plastic dish on the bottom is worn? Maybe switch tab is bent and preventing the ball from dropping in. Debris in saucer?

#4785 69 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Perhaps the plastic dish on the bottom is worn? Maybe switch tab is bent and preventing the ball from dropping in. Debris in saucer?

Saucer is new. Switch doesn't look like it's too high. Just seems like ball heads enough towards the edge that it bounces off the upper right metal strip and continues right on out.

#4786 68 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

Saucer is new. Switch doesn't look like it's too high. Just seems like ball heads enough towards the edge that it bounces off the upper right metal strip and continues right on out.

Try putting a piece of 1/4" foam on the piece of metal. 1"x 1/2"

IMG_20210818_165312 (resized).jpg
#4787 68 days ago
Quoted from killborn:

Try putting a piece of 1/4" foam on the piece of metal. 1"x 1/2"
[quoted image]

Hmmmm- Your wire guide between the saucer and the pop bumper looks a lot straighter than mine. Mine has a "swoop" towards the saucer. Wonder if straightening it will help. Foam may work too.

#4788 68 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

Hmmmm- Your wire guide between the saucer and the pop bumper looks a lot straighter than mine. Mine has a "swoop" towards the saucer. Wonder if straightening it will help. Foam may work too.

This^^^^

Here is a pic of mine that im putting back together

20210818_220135 (resized).jpg
#4789 68 days ago

My wire also has a bend in it. Not sure if this is part of the problem but may want to put a slight bend in.

PF_Bumpers_view (resized).JPG

#4790 68 days ago

2.2 uF caps for flippers. My game didn't have them but they came with the rebuild kit. Could somebody please explain how to wire them in and post some pics please?

What is the purpose of these, I'm guess to reduce arcing on the EOSs?

#4791 68 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

What is the purpose of these, I'm guess to reduce arcing on the EOSs?

You are correct about reducing arcing of the EOS switch contacts, but they are used on parallel wound coils. HS has series wound coils and didn't come with them. If you have converted to parallel coils then install them across the the EOS switch terminals.

#4792 67 days ago

Where is a good place to get the hard yellow post sleeves? I feel like any sleeves ive ever purchased would be too bouncy. Thanks.

#4793 67 days ago

I have always felt they were too hard. I believe the last set i got was from pbr. Not very bouncy.
Not a complaint mind you, but i would like them bouncy.

#4794 66 days ago

Finally started my HS restoration. Backbox trial#1 with MDF was a no go, but learned what not to do for #2. Will drill pilot holes for the forstner bits and use a scrap board to prevent the tear outs. I will also use my router as well. Trial and error, gotta love it.
20210821_175503 (resized).jpg

20210821_175519 (resized).jpg
#4795 65 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Finally started my HS restoration. Backbox trial#1 with MDF was a no go, but learned what not to do for #2. Will drill pilot holes for the forstner bits and use a scrap board to prevent the tear outs. I will also use my router as well. Trial and error, gotta love it.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

No scrap backer board used on first attempt? What did you drill it on? Using hand drill I assume? Also try drilling partway through first side and then drilling through backside, lining up point of forstner bit with the penetration from the first side. Want to make a new board myself.

#4796 65 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

No scrap backer board used on first attempt? What did you drill it on? Using hand drill I assume? Also try drilling partway through first side and then drilling through backside, lining up point of forstner bit with the penetration from the first side. Want to make a new board myself.

No, drilled it above some scrap wood stock. Second attempt I am going to use solid stock as base plate to hopefully prevent the tear outs. Going to practice on a some scrap first. I had the board clamped solid, so there was no flexing. I am not a fan of MDF, but no excuses here, just have to get it right.

#4797 65 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Finally started my HS restoration. Backbox trial#1 with MDF was a no go, but learned what not to do for #2. Will drill pilot holes for the forstner bits and use a scrap board to prevent the tear outs. I will also use my router as well. Trial and error, gotta love it.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Did the same with an EBD but I changed it to drawer grade plywood.

#4798 65 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Finally started my HS restoration. Backbox trial#1 with MDF was a no go, but learned what not to do for #2. Will drill pilot holes for the forstner bits and use a scrap board to prevent the tear outs. I will also use my router as well. Trial and error, gotta love it.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

YES, definitely need a back board to prevent the tear-thru! Go very slow as well when you get close to the end of the hole.

#4799 65 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

YES, definitely need a back board to prevent the tear-thru! Go very slow as well when you get close to the end of the hole.

Thanks for the advice. I know the next one will be perfect

#4800 65 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Thanks for the advice. I know the next one will be perfect

Trial #2 came out 99% better. A tip for anyone doing this. Clean out your drill bits between holes. I found out thru practice, this may cause tear out as well. I was also lifting the drill up and down to remove the excess when drilling. Hope this helps the next person. It was a fun project. Big thanks to #Pin-Pilot for sending me the spare backboard to use as a template. I am gonna hang onto it until the next person needs it.

HS Trial 2 (resized).jpgHS Trial 2.1 (resized).jpg
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