(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

By lordloss

7 years ago


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There are 4924 posts in this topic. You are on page 95 of 99.
#4701 3 months ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Thanks, I am very pleases with how my #HS turned out.
I think you are talking about the wire bending tool. I believe I got it on amazon.
I did not put a cover on the top right flasher. Just a little too tight of a space. You cannot see it anyways.
Love the red nuts and the wire look great!!!

Thanks, I thought it was nice touch. I also got the 6-32 in green for the plastics, do away with the white caps. I found that tool. It's actually for making jewelry which in out case the pins are the jewels

What did you use to cut the flasher lens hole in the plastic? I may just practice on the old one first.

#4702 3 months ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Thanks, I thought it was nice touch. I also got the 6-32 in green for the plastics, do away with the white caps. I found that tool. It's actually for making jewelry which in out case the pins are the jewels
What did you use to cut the flasher lens hole in the plastic? I may just practice on the old one first.

sorry for typo, our case

#4703 89 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

So the upper jet bumper is fine and since the lower left jet bumper works in test but not during a game, most likely an activation switch issue. The switch is out of adjustment or has a broken wire. Now for the right jet bumper not working in test or game play, there maybe a board problem, a switch problem, a broken power wire/ground wire problem, a bad coil and or a combination of these issues. You can start by briefly grounding the metal tab of Q-73 transistor with a jumper wire to see if the coil fires. If it does fire then you know the power/ground wires and the coil are good. Then you will need to look for a board problem. let us know what you find.

Sorry for taking so long, but it’s been very busy over here in my world. 3 months ago I mentioned that two jet bumpers were not working. I had bought and installed a special solenoid fuse board to protect my main board. I found that one of the fuses blew out on the solenoid fuse board and this caused two jet bumpers not to work. The fuse that blew was on the solenoid board and it’s 2.5A. I inspected all fuses on my HS and found that the main power supply board F2 fuse was a 4A and not the 2.5A that is required per specifications. I did a continuity test to see if I had a short (TIP102s in the special solenoid section Q69/Q71/Q73/Q75/Q77/Q79) and all is good. Funny thing is the game works great without the solenoid board installed, but I’m afraid that I have a short somewhere on my HS and I don’t want to see it go up in flames. Any suggestions on where I should look? Grumpy said that a switch may be out of adjustment, but I’m not sure what switch he is talking about. I’m Tupid!

#4704 89 days ago

Thanks Grumpy.
I will grab one at pinfest from coin taker.

#4705 89 days ago

Added some photos of these switched but I think they look good? Any help or suggestions? Better photos or just sell it as is!

13CDA40D-9C31-4944-99A2-5C2DB288622C (resized).jpeg5883ED08-C61D-408A-AEF8-5B20DE55F0FD (resized).jpegCFB1D51D-83CA-4FCD-BCE9-6243F9CA37D0 (resized).jpeg
#4706 89 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

What did you use to cut the flasher lens hole in the plastic? I may just practice on the old one first.

I thought I had pics to document how larger holes are made in plastics for the domes.

You take the plastic and screw it down onto a piece of wood using the existing holes.

use a forstner bit to drill the larger hole in the plastic. The forstner bid has a center drill tip to line up the drill bit.

Start a center hole with the forstner bit and drill slowly through the plastic.

If I find the pics I took I will post them but I have not been able to locate them. Somewhere on HEP I have seen he documented how it is done.

It is not difficult just takes time, go slow and be sure you are centered when drilling the plastic.

Definitely practice on your old plastic first to get the feel. That is what I did.

EDIT:

Took a little searching but found a post where HEP did this. It is on a The Addams Family but you will get the idea.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/142#post-5687590

#4707 89 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

I thought I had pics to document how larger holes are made in plastics for the domes.
You take the plastic and screw it down onto a piece of wood using the existing holes.
use a forstner bit to drill the larger hole in the plastic. The forstner bid has a center drill tip to line up the drill bit.
Start a center hole with the forstner bit and drill slowly through the plastic.
If I find the pics I took I will post them but I have not been able to locate them. Somewhere on HEP I have seen he documented how it is done.
It is not difficult just takes time, go slow and be sure you are centered when drilling the plastic.
Definitely practice on your old plastic first to get the feel. That is what I did.
EDIT:
Took a little searching but found a post where HEP did this. It is on a The Addams Family but you will get the idea.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/142#post-5687590

Ok, great! I have forsner bits, I can't believe I didn't think of that, doh!

#4708 89 days ago
Quoted from Tsunami:

Added some photos of these switched but I think they look good? Any help or suggestions? Better photos or just sell it as is!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

This is the activation switch marked in red. They need to have a min. 1/16 inch gap. How about a pic of the solenoid fuse board.

pop2 (resized).jpg
#4709 89 days ago
Quoted from Tsunami:

Added some photos of these switched but I think they look good? Any help or suggestions? Better photos or just sell it as is!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

On the first photo it looks to like somebody used high current contacts to rebuild the switch, or EOS switches? I guess this will work for a while in a 5 volt situation. Although the blades may be too stiff for a pop bumper skirt to activate it. If it were my game I would replace them all with new one from Pinball Life, part# SW-11A-35. $10.95 each or $15.95 each with resistor, cap and diode pre-installed.

#4710 89 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

This is the activation switch marked in red. They need to have a min. 1/16 inch gap. How about a pic of the solenoid fuse board.
[quoted image]

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#4711 89 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

On the first photo it looks to like somebody used high current contacts to rebuild the switch, or EOS switches? I guess this will work for a while in a 5 volt situation. Although the blades may be too stiff for a pop bumper skirt to activate it. If it were my game I would replace them all with new one from Pinball Life, part# SW-11A-35. $10.95 each or $15.95 each with resistor, cap and diode pre-installed.

I had work done on this switch about 5 years ago and i remembered that the coil burned up and I replaced it in 2016. I’m assuming the $15.95 with the resistor is my best bet?

#4712 89 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Your game is frigin sweet. I need that tool, please tell me where to get it. I have benchtop wire bending tools but not this. It's funny though, tonight I thought of doing the same exact thing with the upper left plastic and flasher setup. Did you leave the right upper flasher uncovered with standard lamp?
For the ball gate on the lower right where ball exits the shooter lane, I had to remove mine in order to put it in the tumbler and re-grain the ball guides. I went by the chart on Hanson's page to figure the length of the rivet. So length= work piece thickness + clinch allowance. Came out to .187 which is exactly 3/16 inch. So I used that size which was 1/8 diameter, 7/32 head dia. and 3/16 length. I went with a stainless rivet and used a hand squeezer but the rivets are only snug and the gate can to moved with a little force. I'm not worried about it, I think it will hold up. I also turned the rivets around so that the heads face player. I have no clue why they reversed them, it looked stupid to me. Final touch was to polish the rivets with the dremel wheel.
Temporarily mounted the candy red powder coat rails to see what it looks like. Added Pin Chroma 8/32 locknuts in red to match. I'm digging the red silicone post sleeves too.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks nice!
Note: if you want the game to move faster, then counter sink the four metal side rails.
1) middle left.
2) bottom left (kick back)
3) middle right
4) bottom right (ball shooter/entrance)

#4713 89 days ago
Quoted from Tsunami:

[quoted image][quoted image]

What does the red add on board do for the special solenoids?

#4714 89 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

What does the red add on board do for the special solenoids?

Adds and individual fuse for each special solenoid coil.

Was this board made by DumbAss ?

#4715 89 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Adds and individual fuse for each special solenoid coil.
Was this board made by DumbAss ?

Now I know why they call you Grumpy lol. Kidding aside, I'm still learning WMS games. I thought this would be helpful to narrow down a bad coil if they have individual fuses? No? I was thinking of getting it from Weebly.

#4716 89 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Adds and individual fuse for each special solenoid coil.
Was this board made by DumbAss ?

Yes it was.

#4717 89 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Now I know why they call you Grumpy lol. Kidding aside, I'm still learning WMS games. I thought this would be helpful to narrow down a bad coil if they have individual fuses? No? I was thinking of getting it from Weebly.

Yes this will help narrow the problem quickly, but also with a smaller amp fuse like a 1 amp for each coil there wont be any cpu meltdown like in the past. You will still have a bad transistor, but the traces wont be vaporized.

Weebly makes nice boards, but this board looks like a Dumbass production. Both guys make great stuff!

#4718 89 days ago

Could you remove the fuse board and post good pics of both sides.

#4719 89 days ago

I can do that later tonight when I get home from work. Thanks to both of you for the help. FYI I did purchase a CPU reproduction board from Dumbass and both the new board and old board would fail ( jet bumpers) after about 15 to 30 minutes of play time.

#4720 88 days ago

Wow, I don’t remember it looking so bad on the back?

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#4721 84 days ago

Could someone tell me what kind of flashers are used under the two blue hotdog inserts? Want to replace mine with blue bulbs to pop the color a little.

#4722 84 days ago

Our resident High Speed expert, GRUMPY answered this question on the previous page... Here is the link

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-club-dispatch-this-is-504-we-have-a-club-now-over/page/94#post-6364686

63 are what Williams used originally in the game.

#4723 84 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Could someone tell me what kind of flashers are used under the two blue hotdog inserts? Want to replace mine with blue bulbs to pop the color a little.

I installed the blue 89 flat flex 8 from Cointaker. This allows you to adjust the location of them inside your blue hotdog.

7B4C8558-2D13-407A-B223-C00C0B6AC9F1 (resized).png
#4724 84 days ago

FLEX LED's are good. If you go to LED you will need to modify your resisters.

#4725 84 days ago

I went 8 blue flex as well

#4726 83 days ago

Got it, so 63's are original but 89's are less bright but last longer. I'll have to see if anyone carries incandescent 89's with the blue coating.

#4727 83 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Got it, so 63's are original but 89's are less bright but last longer. I'll have to see if anyone carries incandescent 89's with the blue coating.

Some High Speeds have had the brights circuitry modified to take the revised #89 lamps.
#63 O.E.M. circuitry is a series layout.
#89 circuitry is a parallel layout.

#4728 82 days ago

I have 2 HS here and this plastic on both games is just laying on the ball rail behind the upper flipper. I'm guess all are like this? It just doesn't seem correct.

Quoted from vec-tor:

Some High Speeds have had the brights circuitry modified to take the revised #89 lamps.
#63 O.E.M. circuitry is a series layout.
#89 circuitry is a parallel layout.

Is there an easy way to tell the difference?

#4729 82 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Is there an easy way to tell the difference?

Doesn't really matter, you can run #89 bulbs in either with no changes. If you plan on using leds you will need to pull one side of the warming resistor off the terminal board.

#4730 82 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:Is there an easy way to tell the difference?

If the game has been modified to #89 circuitry with a parallel layout,
then both flashers will work if one or the other lamp is removed.

#4731 82 days ago

Can anyone tell one me about the post to the left of the center spinner? I have 2 games here, one early and one later serial number wise. The earlier one has a mini post at the left spinner, the later one has a post with a sleeve. Looking at pics online I saw the sleeve post version. But the manual calls for 3 7/16 rubbers for mini posts. Post sleeve game would only need 2.

I also found a discrepancy in the WMS blue parts book calling for 2 of the 1 inch and 3 of the 1.25 but it should be one of the 1 inch and 4 of the 1.25.

#4732 82 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Can anyone tell one me about the post to the left of the center spinner? I have 2 games here, one early and one later serial number wise. The earlier one has a mini post at the left spinner, the later one has a post with a sleeve. Looking at pics online I saw the sleeve post version. But the manual calls for 3 7/16 rubbers for mini posts. Post sleeve game would only need 2.
I also found a discrepancy in the WMS blue parts book calling for 2 of the 1 inch and 3 of the 1.25 but it should be one of the 1 inch and 4 of the 1.25.

If you are texting about the center spinner to the eject hole...
1) Early version of the game has Bosch relays and a mini post.
2) Second generation has post and sleeve and new relay and resistor matrix.
Plastic set has heavy aluminum spacers...
3) Final version has post and sleeve,snubber relays style design...
Note: I don't remember if the kickback remained on a Bosch relay style up through to the end of the production.

#4733 82 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

If you are texting about the center spinner to the eject hole...
1) Early version of the game has bosh relays and a mini post.
2) Second generation has post and sleeve and new relay and resistor matrix.
Plastic set has heavy aluminum spacers...
3) Final version has post and sleeve,snubber relays style design...
Note: I don't remember if the kickback remained on a Bosh relay style up through to the end of the production.

Thanks for providing this great info! Yes that's the mini post I was referring to. I did notice the difference on the hideout relays. Both games have the Bosch on the kickback.

My plan was to swap pf's between games. I'm doing NOS pf swap and was going in the earlier cabinet, is this possible plug and play?

The PF in the early game is getting a HT. Reason for swapping is that the later game has an above average cab and I want to sell that game with the HT PF.

The early game has a crappy cab that I want to restore and use the NOS PF in so I have a completely restored HS for my collection.

#4734 80 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

This is the activation switch marked in red. They need to have a min. 1/16 inch gap. How about a pic of the solenoid fuse board.
[quoted image]

Question? My switches came in and both top and bottom contacts are touching on all three of them. Should all contacts be a minimum of 1/16 inch gap?

927B0ADD-3EF2-4129-B941-B1B13393FBE3 (resized).jpeg
#4735 80 days ago
Quoted from Tsunami:

Question? My switches came in and both top and bottom contacts are touching on all three of them. Should all contacts be a minimum of 1/16 inch gap?[quoted image]

Switches like this need to have there mounting screws installed either to the mounting bracket or directly to the play field and tightened before any adjustments can be made to the contact spacing. Pop switches are unique as they have a spoon that activates the top contacts. When installing pop switches the spoon must just lightly contact the pin of the skirt and the pin must be centered in the cup of the spoon. Sometimes you have to use a thin spacer in between the switch and the switch bracket so the spoon has the correct contact to the skirt pin. Pop switches are troublesome to get adjusted correctly and are hard to reach when play field is in the cabinet. Check out vids-guide on pop rebuilds.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers#post-485824

#4736 80 days ago

Thanks for the info Grumpy. I will tackle this project over the weekend.

#4737 77 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Switches like this need to have there mounting screws installed either to the mounting bracket or directly to the play field and tightened before any adjustments can be made to the contact spacing. Pop switches are unique as they have a spoon that activates the top contacts. When installing pop switches the spoon must just lightly contact the pin of the skirt and the pin must be centered in the cup of the spoon. Sometimes you have to use a thin spacer in between the switch and the switch bracket so the spoon has the correct contact to the skirt pin. Pop switches are troublesome to get adjusted correctly and are hard to reach when play field is in the cabinet. Check out vids-guide on pop rebuilds.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers#post-485824

UPDATE: I installed my new switches today and replaced the 4A fuse on the power supply board with the recommended 2.5A fuse and everything works as it should. No more blowing fuses. Thanks GRUMPY and Lovek2k for the help. Pinball tonight! Hell yeah!

#4738 76 days ago
Quoted from Tsunami:

UPDATE: Pinball tonight! Hell yeah!

Playball!!!

#4739 76 days ago

It's a beautiful thing when you fix a machine yourself!

#4740 76 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

It's a beautiful thing when you fix a machine yourself!

Yes it is! But what’s ever better is when you kick your sons ass at pinball.

FYI he is 32 years old. The old man wins!

#4741 76 days ago

A few weeks ago I showed some sad pictures of how someone painted over the front and upper sides of my newly purchased High Speed with a grey textured (like 80 grit sandpaper) paint. I did my best to restore my machine to its original look. Not perfect but a major improvement. Now to get this one into the house.

28018CF8-2051-44A4-A794-B4979B2C2BFA (resized).jpeg13441458-22AB-41EA-BA27-09E044CF679F (resized).jpeg3C8084B5-A5A6-4B8C-B9C9-4D1BAE016B9E (resized).jpegC3AEDC2F-F90A-41C8-9201-4D23A47C610C (resized).jpeg290FF3B2-C8AC-4C6E-9911-A7C8060A6C4A (resized).jpeg
#4742 76 days ago

Great job! Now it looks as it should.

#4743 75 days ago

Oh I also added this little guy to the launch ramp.

ED62E2CE-519B-4719-9E11-0E96478F8FF8 (resized).jpeg
#4744 75 days ago

Looks MUCH better. Nice Job!

#4745 75 days ago

I put the helicopter in that spot but the car looks awesome there.

#4746 69 days ago

Added a coupon of Oklahoma Highway branded patrol cars for a little local flavor. Helps fill in a couple of dead areas on the play field.

Now it has me considering altering all the highway stickers to local highways….

B2EC4CD0-DE05-40C4-8253-50D82BB1D501 (resized).jpegFD721C9B-2D0D-4999-BE7C-709038909B59 (resized).jpeg
#4747 69 days ago

Can anyone explain why the GI sockets by the sling shots are different on each side? Right side has staple down sockets and the left has a bracket type with a half inch offset. Obviously the bracket socket will make the lamp sit lower. It looks like there is space for the staple down socket, has anybody used them on the left side when doing a swap?

#4748 69 days ago
Quoted from STLOkie:

Added a coupon of Oklahoma Highway branded patrol cars for a little local flavor. Helps fill in a couple of dead areas on the play field.
Now it has me considering altering all the highway stickers to local highways….
[quoted image][quoted image]

If you edit the stickers, send me a PM, I would pay you for your time to make me stickers for my area CLE, Ohio

Ken

#4749 69 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Can anyone explain why the GI sockets by the sling shots are different on each side? Right side has staple down sockets and the left has a bracket type with a half inch offset. Obviously the bracket socket will make the lamp sit lower. It looks like there is space for the staple down socket, has anybody used them on the left side when doing a swap?

Williams always did that to the kickers... One side was to clear the switch solder tab.

#4750 69 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Williams always did that to the kickers... One side was to clear the switch solder tab.

So the staple down socket used to clear solder tabs? Why not us staple down on both sides?

I added a GI to the star roll over with a lay down socket and a red flex LED. Should look nice.

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