Thanks, I thought it was nice touch. I also got the 6-32 in green for the plastics, do away with the white caps. I found that tool. It's actually for making jewelry which in out case the pins are the jewels

What did you use to cut the flasher lens hole in the plastic? I may just practice on the old one first.

sorry for typo, our case

Sorry for taking so long, but it’s been very busy over here in my world. 3 months ago I mentioned that two jet bumpers were not working. I had bought and installed a special solenoid fuse board to protect my main board. I found that one of the fuses blew out on the solenoid fuse board and this caused two jet bumpers not to work. The fuse that blew was on the solenoid board and it’s 2.5A. I inspected all fuses on my HS and found that the main power supply board F2 fuse was a 4A and not the 2.5A that is required per specifications. I did a continuity test to see if I had a short (TIP102s in the special solenoid section Q69/Q71/Q73/Q75/Q77/Q79) and all is good. Funny thing is the game works great without the solenoid board installed, but I’m afraid that I have a short somewhere on my HS and I don’t want to see it go up in flames. Any suggestions on where I should look? Grumpy said that a switch may be out of adjustment, but I’m not sure what switch he is talking about. I’m Tupid!

Thanks Grumpy.
I will grab one at pinfest from coin taker.

Added some photos of these switched but I think they look good? Any help or suggestions? Better photos or just sell it as is!

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I thought I had pics to document how larger holes are made in plastics for the domes.

You take the plastic and screw it down onto a piece of wood using the existing holes.

use a forstner bit to drill the larger hole in the plastic. The forstner bid has a center drill tip to line up the drill bit.

Start a center hole with the forstner bit and drill slowly through the plastic.

If I find the pics I took I will post them but I have not been able to locate them. Somewhere on HEP I have seen he documented how it is done.

It is not difficult just takes time, go slow and be sure you are centered when drilling the plastic.

Definitely practice on your old plastic first to get the feel. That is what I did.

EDIT:

Took a little searching but found a post where HEP did this. It is on a The Addams Family but you will get the idea.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/142#post-5687590

Ok, great! I have forsner bits, I can't believe I didn't think of that, doh!

This is the activation switch marked in red. They need to have a min. 1/16 inch gap. How about a pic of the solenoid fuse board.

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On the first photo it looks to like somebody used high current contacts to rebuild the switch, or EOS switches? I guess this will work for a while in a 5 volt situation. Although the blades may be too stiff for a pop bumper skirt to activate it. If it were my game I would replace them all with new one from Pinball Life, part# SW-11A-35. $10.95 each or $15.95 each with resistor, cap and diode pre-installed.

I had work done on this switch about 5 years ago and i remembered that the coil burned up and I replaced it in 2016. I’m assuming the $15.95 with the resistor is my best bet?

Looks nice!
Note: if you want the game to move faster, then counter sink the four metal side rails.
1) middle left.
2) bottom left (kick back)
3) middle right
4) bottom right (ball shooter/entrance)

What does the red add on board do for the special solenoids?

Adds and individual fuse for each special solenoid coil.

Was this board made by DumbAss ?

Now I know why they call you Grumpy lol. Kidding aside, I'm still learning WMS games. I thought this would be helpful to narrow down a bad coil if they have individual fuses? No? I was thinking of getting it from Weebly.

Yes it was.

Yes this will help narrow the problem quickly, but also with a smaller amp fuse like a 1 amp for each coil there wont be any cpu meltdown like in the past. You will still have a bad transistor, but the traces wont be vaporized.

Weebly makes nice boards, but this board looks like a Dumbass production. Both guys make great stuff!

Could you remove the fuse board and post good pics of both sides.

I can do that later tonight when I get home from work. Thanks to both of you for the help. FYI I did purchase a CPU reproduction board from Dumbass and both the new board and old board would fail ( jet bumpers) after about 15 to 30 minutes of play time.

Wow, I don’t remember it looking so bad on the back?

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Could someone tell me what kind of flashers are used under the two blue hotdog inserts? Want to replace mine with blue bulbs to pop the color a little.

Our resident High Speed expert, GRUMPY answered this question on the previous page... Here is the link

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-club-dispatch-this-is-504-we-have-a-club-now-over/page/94#post-6364686

63 are what Williams used originally in the game.

I installed the blue 89 flat flex 8 from Cointaker. This allows you to adjust the location of them inside your blue hotdog.

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FLEX LED's are good. If you go to LED you will need to modify your resisters.

I went 8 blue flex as well

Got it, so 63's are original but 89's are less bright but last longer. I'll have to see if anyone carries incandescent 89's with the blue coating.

Some High Speeds have had the brights circuitry modified to take the revised #89 lamps.
#63 O.E.M. circuitry is a series layout.
#89 circuitry is a parallel layout.

I have 2 HS here and this plastic on both games is just laying on the ball rail behind the upper flipper. I'm guess all are like this? It just doesn't seem correct.

Is there an easy way to tell the difference?

Doesn't really matter, you can run #89 bulbs in either with no changes. If you plan on using leds you will need to pull one side of the warming resistor off the terminal board.

If the game has been modified to #89 circuitry with a parallel layout,
then both flashers will work if one or the other lamp is removed.

Can anyone tell one me about the post to the left of the center spinner? I have 2 games here, one early and one later serial number wise. The earlier one has a mini post at the left spinner, the later one has a post with a sleeve. Looking at pics online I saw the sleeve post version. But the manual calls for 3 7/16 rubbers for mini posts. Post sleeve game would only need 2.

I also found a discrepancy in the WMS blue parts book calling for 2 of the 1 inch and 3 of the 1.25 but it should be one of the 1 inch and 4 of the 1.25.

If you are texting about the center spinner to the eject hole...
1) Early version of the game has Bosch relays and a mini post.
2) Second generation has post and sleeve and new relay and resistor matrix.
Plastic set has heavy aluminum spacers...
3) Final version has post and sleeve,snubber relays style design...
Note: I don't remember if the kickback remained on a Bosch relay style up through to the end of the production.

Thanks for providing this great info! Yes that's the mini post I was referring to. I did notice the difference on the hideout relays. Both games have the Bosch on the kickback.

My plan was to swap pf's between games. I'm doing NOS pf swap and was going in the earlier cabinet, is this possible plug and play?

The PF in the early game is getting a HT. Reason for swapping is that the later game has an above average cab and I want to sell that game with the HT PF.

The early game has a crappy cab that I want to restore and use the NOS PF in so I have a completely restored HS for my collection.

Question? My switches came in and both top and bottom contacts are touching on all three of them. Should all contacts be a minimum of 1/16 inch gap?

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Switches like this need to have there mounting screws installed either to the mounting bracket or directly to the play field and tightened before any adjustments can be made to the contact spacing. Pop switches are unique as they have a spoon that activates the top contacts. When installing pop switches the spoon must just lightly contact the pin of the skirt and the pin must be centered in the cup of the spoon. Sometimes you have to use a thin spacer in between the switch and the switch bracket so the spoon has the correct contact to the skirt pin. Pop switches are troublesome to get adjusted correctly and are hard to reach when play field is in the cabinet. Check out vids-guide on pop rebuilds.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers#post-485824

Thanks for the info Grumpy. I will tackle this project over the weekend.

UPDATE: I installed my new switches today and replaced the 4A fuse on the power supply board with the recommended 2.5A fuse and everything works as it should. No more blowing fuses. Thanks GRUMPY and Lovek2k for the help. Pinball tonight! Hell yeah!

Playball!!!

It's a beautiful thing when you fix a machine yourself!

Yes it is! But what’s ever better is when you kick your sons ass at pinball.

FYI he is 32 years old. The old man wins!

A few weeks ago I showed some sad pictures of how someone painted over the front and upper sides of my newly purchased High Speed with a grey textured (like 80 grit sandpaper) paint. I did my best to restore my machine to its original look. Not perfect but a major improvement. Now to get this one into the house.

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Great job! Now it looks as it should.

Oh I also added this little guy to the launch ramp.

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Looks MUCH better. Nice Job!

I put the helicopter in that spot but the car looks awesome there.

Added a coupon of Oklahoma Highway branded patrol cars for a little local flavor. Helps fill in a couple of dead areas on the play field.

Now it has me considering altering all the highway stickers to local highways….

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Can anyone explain why the GI sockets by the sling shots are different on each side? Right side has staple down sockets and the left has a bracket type with a half inch offset. Obviously the bracket socket will make the lamp sit lower. It looks like there is space for the staple down socket, has anybody used them on the left side when doing a swap?

If you edit the stickers, send me a PM, I would pay you for your time to make me stickers for my area CLE, Ohio

Ken

Williams always did that to the kickers... One side was to clear the switch solder tab.

So the staple down socket used to clear solder tabs? Why not us staple down on both sides?

I added a GI to the star roll over with a lay down socket and a red flex LED. Should look nice.