I just completed a HS PF swap. By far the longest one I have done. Later System 11s seem to have far less wiring.

I'm sure this will take a while. The nice thing is that I have a NOS PF and the dimpling looks to be spot on. I have been thinking of getting an ultra sonic cleaner and dunking the harness in for a bath. My worry is that the high frequency of the vibrations may do damage to the diodes. I am planning to change the switch diodes but not all of those diodes on the lamps.

Put it through a cycle in your dish washer. Works Great!

I tried that years back with EBD but the switches turned black. Not sure why, maybe the detergent? Should I not use detergent this time?

My NOS PF doesn't have the rubber sizes stamped on it. I find this odd. Also it is date stamped Aug 1991. Anyone else notice if they have the rubber size stamped?

Also, I have another HS game that has black relays for the hideout circuit, the one I'm swapping now has blue relays that look very different. Can anyone explain?

Try it without detergent. The hot water should do just fine to clean the dirt off the harness.

When i restored my playfield, i had to do away with the rubber sizes on the playfield. I repainted all of the white and much of the rest of the playfield.
My intention was to use waterslide decals in between clear coats but never did. Just got lazy.
When i was just about done with clear coat, repro playfields were released.

What is the big 30,000 uF cap in the bottom of the back box for? Has anyone replaced it and did it make any difference?

My understanding is that it’s in the controlled lamps circuit to smooth out the lighting. I’ve also read that they essentially never fail.

Inkochnito’s bridge board that I highly recommend eliminates it anyway.

http://home.kpn.nl/p.koch3/bridge_board.htm

Nice, I read about the fires these games have caused and was also wondering about the fix. It looks like this board will fix both at once. And I almost spent 40 bucks for a new cap! What is his home page where I can see prices?

Also what's with the WMS parts manual for Sys11 games, no part numbers or diagram for the sling shots, nor in the HS manual. Can someone please post the part numbers for the slings?

Here is a link to the board:

http://bigdaddy-enterprises.com/ProductPages/BridgeBoard.html

what part of the Sling shot are you looking for? Coil, Arm, Switches, Rubber?

Thanks. All parts I guess. Mainly arm or arm and link assembly. Z bracket.

I guess the only way to disassemble the ball diverter is to remove the roll pins at the cranks at the bottom? I have been in the hobby for 13 years and never bought a roll pin removal/insertion tool. I guess it's time!

Anyone need an original pop bumper cap? 6.00 shipped to you usps....Shoot me a PM
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...and sold

Anyone using a Rottendog mpu? Been reading up on them and user satisfaction seems to be hit or miss. Checking because I've been chasing a gremlin on my original board and still having issues. Want to look into a second board be it the Rottendog or a used original. Several boards on ebay all say untested.

Look up “DumbAss” on the Post by Pinsiders. Then look for topic “Dumbass test and reproduction PCBs” I bought one of his reproduction boards for my High Speed and it sounds just like the original Williams. The board is red in color but works great. I did not buy the Rottendog due to feedbacks that the sound was off. Hope this helps.

I cannot find any topics on the 63 flash lamps on High Speed. The game I am working on has 3 89 flash lamps on the back box and one 63 flashlamp that is burned out.

63 lamp
7 volt
0.63 amp
4.41 Watt

89 Lamp
13 volt
0.58 amp
7.54 watt

assuming the flashers are only getting 7 volts to light the 63 lamp, putting in an 89 lamp should not affect the game I assume?

Am I better buying 63 lamps to replace all the flashers or using regular 89 lamps ok?

I am going to change the 44/47 and 555 lamps to LED, but I am not going to bother with changing the flash lamps to LED.

My experience is "untested" on ebay means "we know it does not work and we tried to fix it but it cannot be fixed."

Using #63 bulbs will be very bright but they do not last long, I used #89 bulbs in my game for years, not quite as bright but they lasted 10 times longer.

Thank you! Just wanted a sanity check before I change anything from spec.

Does anybody sell new red flasher lens covers?

https://www.pinballlife.com/plastic-light-domes-with-screw-tabs.html

Perfect. Thank you.

Hey all. I just picked up my first pin ever and High Speed was it. Play field is in great shape but does have one chip on one pop cover and the front art needs to be redone but beyond that it’s a beaut. Already read through much of the comments. Looking forward to more.

Welcome, HS is a fun pin.

Pop covers are available on ebay.
It is classic arcades so they are not hot stamped, just screen printed but you cannot tell the difference with the glass on.

ebay.com link: itm

So I took a chance and bought a used untested board because the price was right. Board looks in decent shape, has minimal corrosion which I cleaned up. Ram was already socketed so I removed corroded battery holder and put my nvram in. Turn on game and nothing but gi lighting works. Game does not start up and displays don't work. Working on getting my original board fixed and had hoped to get lucky with this one. Guess I will have 2 boards going out for repair. Was hoping someone had an idea of what I could check on this board to maybe get it going. Has 5, 12, and 18 volts where it's supposed to.

Take a pic of the board below the batteries and post it.

There are a lot of damaged parts there.
More importantly, there is likely trace damage there as well.
If you have experience with board repair, this will be a big job.
If you do not have experience, this board will be a never ending chore.
In the end, you may only spend $150 in ics, sockets, resistors, diodes , shipping etc but you will invest a lot of hours.
When all is said and done, it will be unreliable.

That board is HEAVILY corroded. You may have knocked the chunks off, but there is much more damage hiding on that board. Any solder joints not shiny and smooth? Thats corrosion. Any traces have solder masked turned dark? Thats corrosion. Pretty much the entire area shown in the pic (and most likely areas out of frame) needs every component removed and the board sanded down to bare copper to see how many traces have corroded away. Every trace needs to be checked before you replace each component with new.

I have a few items I need to clean up on my machines but I put in a super simple but nice little modification last night. I missed out on those cool clear ramps but this helps dress up the back area of play field and covers up that exposed steel area. Doesn’t obstruct the ball viewing much either on those orbits.

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Nice touch! How did you make those?

Available on ebay last I saw.

Perhaps here too.

There were several vendors I saw but I got it though this Amazon seller. Super easy and a nice upgrade for the minimal effort. High Speed Pinball Sign Mod https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083LFMDMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_J9K1TWCQCCT4Q6ER2VWR

I am going to work on a 3D printed stop sign mod that affixes to the front of the base light. Doing the the 3D render now.

I’m redoing the sides of the topper side art and I need a dimension of the circular Williams logo as mine was completely gone. Can someone give me a measurement of the diameter of the yellow portion edge to edge?

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6" exactly outside edge to outside edge.

Perfect. Thank you!

Ugh. Why would someone do this?! My recent purchase had painted (textured!) on the top sides and front. Sanded it down and the original art still looked good! We’ll get her looking good again.
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That is nuts. I would have stripped all the parts from the cab before doing this though.

I’m not paining yet. Just was sanding a bit. Going to strip next.

That is too bad. Cannot imagine why someone would do that?

I see.

I'm working on 2 HS at the moment. CPR did the plastics years back and I bought a set then. I just noticed the green for the trees is very light compared to originals. Have they corrected this later on? Also does anyone know the rivet size for the flasher lenses? I see they added a back up washer.

I also bought plastics from CPR around Nov 2019. The CPR plastics I got were brighter and greener (less faded).

I am not sure of the rivet size. I believe I used 1/8 X 1/4

I would highly recommend this upgrade to the rear flashers:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-restoration-in-low-speed-jan-2020/page/3#post-5765251

Your game is frigin sweet. I need that tool, please tell me where to get it. I have benchtop wire bending tools but not this. It's funny though, tonight I thought of doing the same exact thing with the upper left plastic and flasher setup. Did you leave the right upper flasher uncovered with standard lamp?

For the ball gate on the lower right where ball exits the shooter lane, I had to remove mine in order to put it in the tumbler and re-grain the ball guides. I went by the chart on Hanson's page to figure the length of the rivet. So length= work piece thickness + clinch allowance. Came out to .187 which is exactly 3/16 inch. So I used that size which was 1/8 diameter, 7/32 head dia. and 3/16 length. I went with a stainless rivet and used a hand squeezer but the rivets are only snug and the gate can to moved with a little force. I'm not worried about it, I think it will hold up. I also turned the rivets around so that the heads face player. I have no clue why they reversed them, it looked stupid to me. Final touch was to polish the rivets with the dremel wheel.

Temporarily mounted the candy red powder coat rails to see what it looks like. Added Pin Chroma 8/32 locknuts in red to match. I'm digging the red silicone post sleeves too.

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Shoot now with the pics I can see that I need to clean the clear coat from the opening in the PF, Ugh, more work.

Has anyone converted the beacon 1683 bulb to an LED bulb?

Thanks, I am very pleases with how my #HS turned out.

I think you are talking about the wire bending tool. I believe I got it on amazon.

I did not put a cover on the top right flasher. Just a little too tight of a space. You cannot see it anyways.

Love the red nuts and the wire look great!!!

Yes. You can buy a 24 volt led bulb in white from coin taker or you can add a bridge rectifier and resistor to run standard 12 volt leds and use a red led for a deeper red color.