Of course. I own 5 crimpers and can't find #5. None of them are molex crimpers. Thought my spark plug wire crimpers would work as they have changeable jaws, but noth8ng for molex. Ordered one from Amazon.

Yea, it is amazing how many different crimper tools you accumulate over the years when you dabble in electronics.

I paid a LOT for the neato ratcheting one on PBL only to find that it isn't for .100 (in their defense it says so right on their site..I just didn't read) as is commonly found on old Bally and stern. Had to fork over another 35 or so for one from GPE to do that job. Probably won't ever use the ratcheting ones again out of pure spite. Blah.

Wow, Digikey is in no damn hurry to ship my order.

is it not shipped yet? they have shipped relatively fast with my past orders.

So I think I'm headed down to pick up my high speed tomorrow. I'm ready for her to be home! And with the frustration from trying to dial in my Eight Ball Deluxe / wrapping up of the Lethal Weapon 3 I picked up, I think it's a good time. Can't wait!

Under status it just says "submitted".

I wouldn’t redo all of the connectors at this point. Bally games need that, on System 11’s I’ve only ever needed to redo the GI connector.

Just gets more awesome. Was playing tonight and thought I heard an odd noise but wasn't sure. Next thing, I notice the magic smoke coming up around the right pop bomber. Turn game off and lift playfield, smell the burn. Can't see anything out of the ordinary but damn near burnt myself when I touched the coil for that pop bumper. Need to let it cool before I can do anything else but it seems like that bumper mechanism isn't springing up and down like the others. Not sure if the sleeve heated up and deformed or if the mechanism caused the issue. Game seemed to be playing normally, didn't notice an issue with the bumper. I did notice that the lower bumper has a different coil than the other two. Is that normal? I would think they would all 3 be the same.
Anyone know if rebuilding the bumpers would do the trick or should I be looking for a different cause? Will try and get a better look tomorrow when it all cools down.
Have 2 machines down now. Anyone an expert on a Laser Ball with flippers that stopped working?

Coil is definitely fried. It must have stuck on somehow. Transistor on board may be fried as well. I like to use solenoid savers for system 11s.

If the coil got too hot it will swell and cause the plunger to not move freely which is why it appears to be stuck.

Are the coils different by mfr or numbers?

Will double check tomorrow but one coil is a Williams and the other two are I guess no-names and different numbers.

Yes, want to get the solenoid saver but I thought they need to be rewired for sys 11.
Which transistor would be the one to check?

Looks like Q73. See picture. I’d replace the coil first and check the switch. Note, the picture shows the coil number as well. Solenoid saver will definitely work on the special coils in sys 11.

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If there is a pre-driver transistor that is likely gone too. It’s shaped like a “D” when you look at it from above. I had a shorted pop coil and it killed the transistor and the pre-driver.

How quickly are you gonna throw those new rails on???

The wireforms? IMMEDIATELY.

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I eagerly await the next batch of pictures then!

HOLY FORKING SHIRTBALLS! I love them!!!

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So I got a better look today. Right bumper not moving now, I guess the sleeve did heat and seize. Two of the coils are AE-24-900-2. They are not correct but I don't know enough to say how they differ from the correct ones. Have an order ready for Marcos. They don't have the switches, but mine look okay. Did not see the spoon part but will check again before I submit the order. Hard to tell how they are without disassembly but one looks more bumped out than the other. Don't really want to break down the switches just for them but might as well.

As far as coils, I saw a post by Vid stating that the piece with the wire and diode should be moved to the upper end of the coil to help insulate it from the shock of the plunger bottoming out. Anyone do this?

Also, how will I know if the transistor is fried? Will it damage my new parts if so or will the bumper just not work?

The different coil numbers isn’t a big deal. For pop bumpers, I don’t think wire direction matters. First thing you need to do is get a née coil and install it. Check the activation switch “spoon” to make sure it is set correctly (not touching). Then, turn on machine. If coil locks on, turn off quickly. This means short and transistor most likely fried. If nothing happens when turn on machine, go into switch mode and see if it activates. If it doesn’t, could be fried transistor or shorted diode. You can also ground the transistor to see if it will fire.

Moved it down in pieces and got it all set back up. Adjusted my wonky hideout switch (it might need a bit more yet but it's at least working now). She looks so purdy next to my other Sys11 baby

Still need to install the MRS switch. I'll save that for when I need my next win on something...so, in a couple of hours most likely.

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Great...
My list of things I want to do just got longer!
List right now:
- Hardtop
- Red ramp
- Have wireforms painted

I'm gathering all of the things in order to have all the other metal pieces candy coated also. The rails are my last item but I've been hesitant to pull them off lol

Is it possible to remove the metal spacers without ruining the plastic?

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Yes I just did it with my plastic get a drill bit as big as the metal that goes through the plastic and drill it out slowly

Soldering iron worked. I'm trying to.... Change this back corner. I think it looks dumb with all that exposed light. Makes sense with the black ramp ... Not with clear.

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Does anyone know the value of this red resister (I think it’s a resister???)... Ride hideout coil not firing, and I found the broken leg on this guy..

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This is what mine looks like now

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MUCH better. Thanks for sharing!

That resistor is fried, I would replace that diode with it. The colors are orange, green, brown and gold. From what I found online, I'm thinking this is a 350 ohm resistor +/- 5%. I'm guess at least a 3 watt heat rating? Can someone concur?

That looks about right. Here is a pic from my High Speed - The green band is a bit faded. I would replace both sides, right and left kicker resistor, Diode and Cap while you are there.

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Do it like this. The factory should have done it like this in the first place.

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Thanks for the help!

Figured I'd share this.. the GI between the two plastics on the left side always bugged me.. especially when using LEDs this can glare quite a bit.

Anyway, I had a bunch of these bendies I bought in a bulk lot.. just enough room to twist around and light up the left kickout, and no more glare in my eye

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I used the double bendies to light my flipper buttons, start button, saucer, and rollovers. There are 3 bulbs on the playfield that I feel glare too much. This might be the solution I was looking for.

Lol. Can't say I've ever had that one before...

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Yeah, but lets see you do it again!

Scared of the red wireforms... they look too hot

I wanted to share with the club pictures of a High Speed we installed a hardtop for @Gorgar666. As you can see, the game now looks absolutely beautiful and the inserts sparkle. I don't know if I have ever played a pinball that shoots so smoothly. It feels frictionless.

The translucent red ramp from Freeplay40 and the custom mini traffic light mod from RobF look outstanding.
I could play it all day, every day. I think I am in love.

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Awesome! Does RobF still sell that mod?

Yup. It's in his Pinside shop.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1252-robtune-/03631-high-speed-led-stoplight

Great work! Looks awesome. High Speed is a PERFECT game for hardtops and the fp40 ramps are killer. I need to add the stoplight to mine.. I've had it carted forever!

The stoplight is awesome.
I need to get the FP40 ramp when I do the hardtop.

Anyone ever deal with any humming issues? In it's past life in my HS the grey 3-wire going from the sound board down to the rheostat in the cabinet for volume control I guess got broken and had a new piece spliced in. I have a hum that comes from the speakers. It's not too bad but it is annoying because I have to assume it's not normal. Would replacing the wire with a new full length piece and a new rheostat do anything to fix the hum? I've heard of people isolating grounds and using separate power supplies to stop humming but was thinking my easy fix might help.

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Most humming on solid state machines comes from poor ground from my experience. When I purchased my HS I had a loud hum. I made sure that all screws were tightened and making good contact with the sound card and mpu. If any screws are missing try to find replacements.

Agree with this. Also is the ground prong cut off the cord?

Nope, cord is good. I just keep looking at the splice job someone did and hate it. Was hoping it might fix the hum. Will definitely fix my OCD!

No turning back now! This is my 10th PF swap. All others have been early Bally and Stern. What's nice about HS is that all the switched lamps are wired directly and no trace wire is needed. I have another HS here to reference but I still labeled as much as I needed to. One thing compared to earlier swaps is that HS has numerous through hole wiring for the hideouts and such, so many of those have to be de-soldered. It took about 3 long nights to get this far.

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Also found out why the upper flashers never worked, warming resistor missing.