Did you install the diode in the correct direction?

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Grumpy- Do not have the bridge board upgrade yet but I plan on it. Can you give me a little direction on checking the coil power bridge rectifier? I believe it is the upper one of the two? Am I just putting a DMM across the orange and black wire terminals?

Did not change diode on relay. Should I?

Am fairly certain diodes I installed are oriented properly. My OCD makes me question myself. I did compare them to their counterparts on the left hideout and bands appear to be in the same direction but I will check them again later. Trying to juggle too many things this morning.

If I am to check across the rectifier from the orange to black wire I have 32 volts. Rechecked my diodes and fuses today. Noticed upon closer inspection this fuse looked like it had a smudge on it. Turns out it blew. Not sure where it goes to but maybe it's what's holding me up now. Going to pick some up tomorrow.

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Yep. Should be @ 32-35 volts DC.

Yep.

This is the fuse for the 70 volts coils that have snubber relays.

Replaced blown fuse. Everything was working in test mode. Kickback would pop out but not immediately go back in. Seemed like left kicker or something else firing would make it go back. Didn't get any further with it yet. During game play right hideout fires, but does not have the power to shoot the ball out. Did not change diode on relay yet. Not sure if that will help it or not.
Coil was loose in bracket the other day so I tightened it up but it moves freely.

Got a new red Freeplay40 ramp on the way for my NOS PF, it's gonna look sexy!

Check the coil resistance, mine are reading 5.3 ohms

A loose coil, wear on the plunger link holes, a dirty sleeve, a dry pivot pin are a few reasons for a weak coil. Could also be burnt contacts on the relay caused by a bad snubber board capacitor/diode. The blue and brown wires on the relay can also be moved to the opposite side terminals and you will have a new set of contacts to use for another 35 years.

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What can be used on a dry pivot pin? I thought lubrication is a no-no.

98% of the time lubrication is not needed in pinball machines, but on a metal to metal contact area like this pivot pin I clean both parts very well and then use one drop of CLP oil on the pin then reassemble it. This will last ten years in a home use pin.

It looks as if there are jumpers connecting both sets of terminals where the blue and brown wires are attached. Will moving them over actually make them use the other set of contacts? Plus both of these relays have cracked cases that come right off.

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I have an early run pin so my machine has different relays then yours. Having both contacts jumpered like yours is the best way to run. So just replace the diode.

Replaced diode. Disassembled coil and cleaned it all. One drop of CLP on pin. Seems smooth as butter. Still not kicking ball out. Should I replace snubber capacitors? They may be the only caps I have not replaced. What about the other resistor(?) in between the diode and the capacitor? . Is it possible for micro switch wire to be sticking up too high and slowing ball down? Coil is reading 6.0 ohms FWIW. Anything else to try? Itching to play......!

So its not a friction issue now. All that is left is a power or ground problem. Do you have a jumper wire with some alligator clips? You can connect one end of the jumper to the ground braid and the other end to the snubber board terminal where the brown/black wires connect to test the ground wire. Retest with a ball in the hideout. You can also test the power by connecting the jumper wire to the purple/yellow wire on the left hide out coil to the purple/yellow wire on the right hide out coil. Then retest.

With both jumper arrangements I let the ball roll down into the hideout. Grounding set up didn't seem to do anything helpful. Let it kick about 4-5 times before shutting off machine. Repeated with same result. Connecting jumper to power did shoot the ball out twice then kept kicking. Repeated again and did not kick ball out, just kept kicking.

Sounds like it's time for a new relay then. You said that the cover comes off easy. Remove the cover and look at the point contacts, are they burnt?

They seemed pretty clean when I examined them.

You said there are different relays used? Mine is the DPDT type yes?

Correct. On early games like mine there are automotive 12 volt black cube relays with a dropping resistor and no snubber boards.

Looked real quick and think Marco's had 24 v relays. Would that be correct?

Marco's does not have correct relay. Relays in machine are 13 amp. Found a local place that has 10 amp relays. Would that work as a replacement or no?

Was able to find them at PBR.

Anyone know if these work with HS? Couldn't copy the link for some reason.

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Kind of an odd rating, most are 10 or 15 amps.

Yes they would, with both sets of contacts tied together you would have a 20 amp rating.

Yes they would work with some reworking of the wiring.

Any chance you would be able to enlighten me as to how to do that? It would take more than just connecting the existing wires to the proper terminals?

Yes and no, you would also need to find standoffs and screws to mount the board. Make new holes in the playfield for mounting.

Start by unsoldering all the wires from the relay and snubber board, then remove both items.
Find a good location to mount the new snubber board, hopefully where all the old wires can reach.
Find some circuit board standoffs (pic below) like these from PBL for mounting.
Connect the 2 black wires to the ground terminal.
Connect the 2 red wires to the power terminal.
Connect the grey/black wire to the drive terminal.
Do not connect anything to the NC terminal.
Connect the blue wire from the hideout coil to the coil terminal.
You will have 1 brown and 1 blue wire left over, you do not need them as you are done and ready to test it.

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These eliminate the relays? Was looking to rebuild the snubbers but thought these might be a good upgrade. Are they a decent upgrade or nothing special?

Yes, the relay on the new board would be replacing the blue relay screwed to the play field.

I don't know if I would call it an upgrade. There wont be any improvements to game play or longevity of parts. More of a consolidation of parts to one board. Now for early games like mine which have no snubber portion and just the relay, this would be an improvement for removing EMI pulses.

I stand corrected, there is one upgrade to using this replacement snubber board. The resistor is a larger wattage then the original that is usually burnt to a crisp just like yours on your game.

Could someone tell me the resistor value for the resistors on the PF switches, pop bumpers etc?

100 ohm.

How confident are you that it's my relays? I only ask because I'm hoping this does it. Have company coming next weekend and really want to show off a bit......!

Could the resistor be causing my problems?

That's the only thing that you haven't bypassed yet.

The resistor is part of the EMI pulse reducing circuit, even if you were to remove the resistor and cap the coil will fire.

As a final test you could connect a 2 jumper wires, one to the blue and one to the brown wires of the relay terminals. Care must be taken so they don't touch each other. Then lower the PF with the wires around the side of the PF. Turn on the power and drop a ball into the hideout. Briefly touch the ends of the jumper wires together, this will be the same as the relay activating. Does the ball pop out with force now that you bypassed the relay?

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Thanks!

Got my relays delivered and installed the one in the right hideout. First off the tabs on the new relay are smaller so it kind of sucked soldering them. Was still randomly not pushing the ball out. Seemed like the bottom switch protruded higher than the left side so I bent it a bit to mirror the left side. Ball seems to shoot out fine now. Occasionally the hideout will fire a second time after the ball is well out of the hideout. Thinking maybe it's the side switch causing that? Will check it out when I can. Also think the kickback is still randomly firing with the hideout. Assume I should try swapping that diode next.

Axaios

The size is W 28 1/2” x H 21”

It's a great ramp, you'll enjoy it!!

HS1.pdf

HS2.pdf

The red ramp is awesome. It hides that hideous gap in the plastic in the far right corner, whereas the clear one lets it shine right through. I need to take that plastic out and see if I can remove the spacers so it'll sit flat against the rails to get rid of that (and reposition the flasher at the same time).

Both are great choices for the game..far better than the OG black piece..IMO.

I got my red ramp last week. Very pleased with how it looks.

If anyone’s interested, I’m currently doing a thread on my HS restoration.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-amp-taxi-80s-brothers-rebuilt

Do you still need to send them your black one in order to have the metal piece put on? Or does it come with it installed automatically?

You need to contact FREEPLAY40. He is the one who sells them....

I still haven't tackled this, too many other things on the go.

Before I do, I just wanted to mention that I've previously installed Inkochnito's bridge board. Has anyone had any issues with this board and could it have something to do with the problem?

No, this board is for the lamp and coil power. Since you don't have displays, you have a low 5 volt issue or a blanking issue.

Looking for some help! During game play only the Upper Jet Bumper works. During test mode only the Upper and Lower Jet Bumpers work. Any advise?

So the upper jet bumper is fine and since the lower left jet bumper works in test but not during a game, most likely an activation switch issue. The switch is out of adjustment or has a broken wire. Now for the right jet bumper not working in test or game play, there maybe a board problem, a switch problem, a broken power wire/ground wire problem, a bad coil and or a combination of these issues. You can start by briefly grounding the metal tab of Q-73 transistor with a jumper wire to see if the coil fires. If it does fire then you know the power/ground wires and the coil are good. Then you will need to look for a board problem. let us know what you find.

Thanks Grumpy, I will try and check it out tomorrow after work.

First, thought I'd share this epic game with my kid last night. Low increment jackpot values too!.. and my first time getting the hideout multiball extra ball ..

Been crazy days for high speed.. the night before my family had a quadruple match?!?

Second, for the freeplay ramps, I was wondering what the gameplay difference is like? Would you say more likely to make the shot, and less partially up the ramp weaker ones not making it? better control for a repeat ramp shot? or pretty much the same just cosmetic?

Last, on the left outlane kickback, wondering what the consensus would be on where you want to ball to end up operationally? I find mine most commonly hits the divider between the right freeway and the escape and bounces back down... once in a while it creeps up the right freeway... just curious.

Thank you
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