High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.


By lordloss

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,462 posts
  • 279 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by PinballAir
  • Topic is favorited by 142 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 577 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_20190110_210520982 (resized).jpg
1 (resized).JPG
891326A4-3F81-4C31-965B-C137BFFCFFFF (resized).jpeg
D28FCF79-B994-4819-9310-C5CC11CCDAB8 (resized).jpeg
2AF73DAE-59EE-40E0-B604-206719F5BEC5 (resized).jpeg
1 (resized).JPG
007 (resized).JPG
006 (resized).JPG
002 (resized).JPG
005 (resized).JPG
004 (resized).JPG
IMG_5664 (resized).JPG
85336ECA-3686-4413-90E3-6DE901D992F1 (resized).jpeg
3870859B-9597-40D1-8D61-51D5870C2A03 (resized).jpeg
coils (resized).PNG
BCBC4632-7F85-435B-8FD8-72D56B93CAA4 (resized).jpeg

There are 2462 posts in this topic. You are on page 9 of 50.
#401 4 years ago
Quoted from popeboy:

Actually I just looked at it again last night. The hole on the top of the backbox that it mounts to is about 4" in diameter (just guessing, didn't actually measure it), I was thinking I could just buy the right size hole saw and pop a hole in the little shelf, screw it to the bottom of that like it is mounted in the machine. The motor itself is enclosed and pretty small.
Update on my double kick out issue with multiball. Ran the switch test last night and no stuck switches. Ran the switch edge test and hand tested all the switches, they all registered properly.
I locked a ball in the kick out hole instead of a hideout and that started a 2 ball multiball properly. Only seems to be an issue if I lock a ball in the hideout to start multiball. Then it kicks out the first in to the shooter lane, waits about a second (which is enough time to launch the first ball if you are quick), then kicks a second ball in to the shooter lane.
Again I am assuming this is not the normal function since I am new to this machine.
Thoughts?

Test the switches with a ball, not your hand. I'm still guessing you have a flakey switch in the hideout or the trough.

#402 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Does that look NICE!! Great job. And while the game is out put some Comet brand red "Crystal Fan" bulbs in the pops, they are GREAT.

I had some 4 LED pop bumper bulbs that are already in there. Should be pretty bright. Hoping the new ramp design will lighten things up as well.

#403 4 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

I didn't like the wood tone side rails so I painted mine gloss black.

Hmm.... I think i'll do the same, looks nice.

#404 4 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Test the switches with a ball, not your hand. I'm still guessing you have a flakey switch in the hideout or the trough.

Ok, will do.

#405 4 years ago

If anyone needs/wants a new diverter ramp cover Bayareaamusements still has them. Mine was yellowed and cracked so it was a $9 no brainer for me. Get um while ya can.

#406 4 years ago

I got my high speed level and played a lot faster. I moved it back into place and I think my legs bent a bit from not being moved properly over the years. At first when I made the adjustment the initial ramp shot was made most of the time, not it just hits the bottom of the ramp and drains.

I'm thinking about buying new legs and a pinball dolly.

#407 4 years ago

Also test your ball trough switches.

#408 4 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

I got my High Speed level and played a lot faster. I moved it back into place and I think my legs bent a bit from not being moved properly over the years. At first when I made the adjustment the initial ramp shot was made most of the time, not it just hits the bottom of the ramp and drains.
I'm thinking about buying new legs and a pinball dolly.

You can adjust the ball trajectory right where it exits the shooter lane..underneath the plastic.

#409 4 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

You can adjust the ball trajectory right where it exits the shooter lane..underneath the plastic.

Damn this was helpfull and makes a HUGE different. Thank you.

#410 4 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

I'm thinking about buying new legs and a pinball dolly.

Don't you have sliders under the feet? Is your floor hard or carpet?

#411 4 years ago
Quoted from kporter946286:

Its not the flipper being weak. I have rebuilt all 3 of them. I am thinking more on the lines of Roll over needs cleaned up or the mylar up there is slowing the ball down. I never noticed as it always hits the same rubber and drops into the pops, I thought the King of Flow designed it that way to get more pop action.

You have the back rubber on wrong. If it's not going around the whole diverter assembly and just on and looped around in the front. the rubber will hit the ball and resulting in what your experiencing. 2 rubbers in the back wrapped around assembly. Mine when I got it had 1 black rubber put on wrong and it did what you said. Fix it with 2 white rubbers installed right and orbit shot some combos.

#412 4 years ago
Quoted from Lowrent:

Switch matrix harness cleaned and installed.

switch harness done.jpg 193 KB

Looks good, home use or putting it out on route? HUO, theres no need for those yellow capacitors. Just saying Before my rebuild a few weeks back, my eos switches I put on 5 years ago still had about another 5-? years of life left. They not needed for HUO.

#413 4 years ago

I can't get my 2 lower flipper coils tight in the bracket, I have squeezed as tight as I can. So my wife without me knowing tells me she fixed it, I said how, she said she put a few drops of super glue in the corners of the coil and coil stop. How do I get this off? I'am sure in time it will break loose on its own, but I'am not liking this one bit. It don't look like a lot and well it is holding tight, but want it done right. Any ideas? What are you douing to keep the coils tight in bracket. I did not have this issue when I rebuilt the flippers 5 years ago. They are the same coils.

#414 4 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

I can't get my 2 lower flipper coils tight in the bracket, I have squeezed as tight as I can. So my wife without me knowing tells me she fixed it, I said how, she said she put a few drops of super glue in the corners of the coil and coil stop. How do I get this off? I'am sure in time it will break loose on its own, but I'am not liking this one bit. It don't look like a lot and well it is holding tight, but want it done right. Any ideas? What are you douing to keep the coils tight in bracket. I did not have this issue when I rebuilt the flippers 5 years ago. They are the same coils.

I assume you are talking about the coil itself. Generally most coils "float" a little. In other words when it is tightened in place you can wiggle them a little. That's normal. As far as how to get yours out.... Worry about it when it fails, unless it is not performing now.

#415 4 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

I can't get my 2 lower flipper coils tight in the bracket, I have squeezed as tight as I can. So my wife without me knowing tells me she fixed it, I said how, she said she put a few drops of super glue in the corners of the coil and coil stop. How do I get this off? I'am sure in time it will break loose on its own, but I'am not liking this one bit. It don't look like a lot and well it is holding tight, but want it done right. Any ideas? What are you douing to keep the coils tight in bracket. I did not have this issue when I rebuilt the flippers 5 years ago. They are the same coils.

Usually spring washers help in this situation. Not sure if HS had them from factory though.

#416 4 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

You have the back rubber on wrong. If it's not going around the whole diverter assembly and just on and looped around in the front. the rubber will hit the ball and resulting in what your experiencing. 2 rubbers in the back wrapped around assembly. Mine when I got it had 1 black rubber put on wrong and it did what you said. Fix it with 2 white rubbers installed right and orbit shot some combos.

I was looking at this and remembered that this was the only rubber I didn't replace. I knew eventually I was going LED and would have to tear down that area so I postponed it. Well I have my LEDS so I think this is motivation needed. After I put it back together with 2 white rubbers, Ill let you know if that fixed my machine. Thanks again for the heads up.

#417 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

she put a few drops of super glue in the corners of the coil and coil stop. How do I get this off?

Super glue is dissolved by acetone. Grab her nail polish remover and you can remove it.

#418 4 years ago

Just got me a High Speed. Have a couple issues with it.

First I think the game logic is messed up.

I think multiball set up should go as follows:
1. Ramp to right lock, release ball.
2. Ramp to right lock, lock.
3. Ramp to left lock, lock.
4. Ball to shooter lane and locks fire locked balls from each side.

Mine is kicking the right lock out twice then locking the 3rd time on the left. Then shooting 2 balls to shooter lane.

Other problem is the sound goes out randomly. It will come back if a lane roll over switch is activated. It will also come back if you press on the main board.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

#419 4 years ago

Well, I'd start by reseating the chips and plugs on the main board. If that solves or changes things, just indicative of bad connections that will probably need to be addressed.

#420 4 years ago

Yeah I'm pretty sure the sound issue is a funky connection. Not so sure about the logic issue. Am I correct in what it should be doing as far as locks? Not having played the game full functioning I'm going off videos.

#421 4 years ago

Back ground sounds is a separate board. Check connectors, it's the board above the MPU. Also check the trough switches. If the trip wire are adjusted so that the weight of the ball closes the switches otherwise the game will be confused. There are also micro switches at the hideouts too, check those as well.

#422 4 years ago

Sound was easy. Just a loose connection where the speaker plugs in. Still having the problem with the multiball locks.

#423 4 years ago
Quoted from erok:

Sound was easy. Just a loose connection where the speaker plugs in. Still having the problem with the multiball locks.

When I got my HS, the speaker in the head had a detached wire. So the guy before had never had full sound on the pin.

#424 4 years ago

Watching the PAPA gameplay video I see what's going on now. In the video after you shoot the ramp and the left side locks the ball in the hide out, it send one ball to the shooter lane. After it's shot a second is sent out.

Mine is sending both out at the same time. What would be causing that?

#425 4 years ago
Quoted from erok:

Watching the PAPA gameplay video I see what's going on now. In the video after you shoot the ramp and the left side locks the ball in the hide out, it send one ball to the shooter lane. After it's shot a second is sent out.
Mine is sending both out at the same time. What would be causing that?

Bad switch in the ball trough most likely. Go into switch edge test, and test the switches with a ball.

#426 4 years ago
Quoted from erok:

Watching the PAPA gameplay video I see what's going on now. In the video after you shoot the ramp and the left side locks the ball in the hide out, it send one ball to the shooter lane. After it's shot a second is sent out.
Mine is sending both out at the same time. What would be causing that?

That's funny, mine is doing the same thing except on the right hideout (ball in left hideout seems to work correctly).
I will experiment some more this weekend and see what happens.

#427 4 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Bad switch in the ball trough most likely. Go into switch edge test, and test the switches with a ball.

Does anyone know the part number on this switch?

#428 4 years ago

I picked up a high speed working in really great shape for technically 325$ i was told it did not work but when i got it home and plugged it in it was just stuck in audit mode cause battery's were dead i cleaned board put it back in works 99% has a burned out eos so once that is replaced and i Finnish shopping it it will be 100% and reson i say i technically got it for 325 is because it was a package deal i paid 650 for 2 machines 1 upright ms.pacman also told it did not work and got it working with a new fuse holder and 1 hs

#429 4 years ago

hspflwr.jpg

hsfp.jpg hspfup.jpg
#430 4 years ago

i have all the parts i just took them all off to clean it and do touch up

#432 4 years ago

Yeah I would say that was a deal. Hope it cleans up well for you.

#433 4 years ago

Hey guys, anyone doing anything to their game this weekend? I installed dual red leds to my flipper buttons and put a red led under the left roll over switch to light it up.

IMGA0862.JPG
IMGA0861.JPG

Also is this ball popper plastic part #03-9101-9? I just want to make sure before I buy it. Gonna light this one up too. Thanks

IMGA0860.JPG

#434 4 years ago

I did the very same thing last summer on mine. Lit both flipper buttons (I only used a single flex), then swapped out the plunger for the translucent red one, then added sockets and lit both stars and the catch as well.

#435 4 years ago

Anyone interested in a set of the habitrail ramps? They are in good condition. I picked up an extra set and had them chromed. This is the untouched original set. Pm me if interested.

Mike

#436 4 years ago

Lordloss, here ya go. Sent ya 2 PM's.

IMGA0863.JPG
IMGA0864.JPG

#437 4 years ago

Lit my saucer, both rollover stars, and added an extra bulb under the ramp myself.

#438 4 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Lit my saucer, both rollover stars, and added an extra bulb under the ramp myself.

Looks like that right star will be a PITA to light up.

#439 4 years ago
Quoted from Pac-Fan:

I did the very same thing last summer on mine. Lit both flipper buttons (I only used a single flex), then swapped out the plunger for the translucent red one, then added sockets and lit both stars and the catch as well.

That's funny, I just put a translucent red plunger on mine too. I want to put a red translucent saucer (see above pict.) in mine but is that the right part no.? I think it is.

#440 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Hey guys, anyone doing anything to their game this weekend? I installed dual red leds to my flipper buttons and put a red led under the left roll over switch to light it up.

Also is this ball popper plastic part #03-9101-9? I just want to make sure before I buy it. Gonna light this one up too. Thanks

IMGA0862.JPG 141 KB

IMGA0861.JPG 162 KB

IMGA0860.JPG 231 KB

IMG_0393.JPG

I have completed the playfield swap but put it on hold while I fabricate a new vacuum formed ramp. This is the first test pull just to confirm fit. Putting final touches on the mold now and should pull a finished product in the next few days. Trying clear and will add color and decals.

#441 4 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

I have completed the playfield swap but put it on hold while I fabricate a new vacuum formed ramp. This is the first test pull just to confirm fit. Putting final touches on the mold now and should pull a finished product in the next few days. Trying clear and will add color and decals.

IMG_0393.JPG 60 KB

I'am interested in the clear, but just got a new ramp, have not installed yet. Might sell or trade for this clear one.

#442 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Hey guys, anyone doing anything to their game this weekend? I installed dual red leds to my flipper buttons and put a red led under the left roll over switch to light it up.

Also is this ball popper plastic part #03-9101-9? I just want to make sure before I buy it. Gonna light this one up too. Thanks

IMGA0862.JPG 141 KB

IMGA0861.JPG 162 KB

IMGA0860.JPG 231 KB

Where are you getting power to run those sockets? I been wanting to do this! I put in clear flipper buttons, and clear shooter rod, just gotta figure out where to get power, type of wire used, etc. Roll over stars same thing where are you getting power? I know on modern games there is plug connectors for mods but these older machines don't. Let me know how to hook up, and what I need to buy?

#443 4 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

I have completed the playfield swap but put it on hold while I fabricate a new vacuum formed ramp. This is the first test pull just to confirm fit. Putting final touches on the mold now and should pull a finished product in the next few days. Trying clear and will add color and decals.

IMG_0393.JPG 60 KB

WOW!!! I'd say you were busy. I hope you plan on selling these. and will all the holes along with the metal entrance flap be in and on it also. Looks nice and thick. Will the pf ramp entrance have to be made deeper because the ramp floor is thicker? So many questions, sorry.

#444 4 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

I have completed the playfield swap but put it on hold while I fabricate a new vacuum formed ramp. This is the first test pull just to confirm fit. Putting final touches on the mold now and should pull a finished product in the next few days. Trying clear and will add color and decals.

IMG_0393.JPG 60 KB

That is a sweet looking ramp!
Really curious to see how this looks in the game.

Add me to the list if this is ever getting produced for sale!!!

#445 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Looks like that right star will be a PITA to light up.

You have to move the position of the wiring harness.....

#446 4 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

Where are you getting power to run those sockets? I been wanting to do this! I put in clear flipper buttons, and clear shooter rod, just gotta figure out where to get power, type of wire used, etc. Roll over stars same thing where are you getting power? I know on modern games there is plug connectors for mods but these older machines don't. Let me know how to hook up, and what I need to buy?

It's simple, just tap into a close gi circuit for the rollovers and saucer. No need for plug connectors.

#447 4 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

Where are you getting power to run those sockets? I been wanting to do this! I put in clear flipper buttons, and clear shooter rod, just gotta figure out where to get power, type of wire used, etc. Roll over stars same thing where are you getting power? I know on modern games there is plug connectors for mods but these older machines don't. Let me know how to hook up, and what I need to buy?

From the coin door lamps. Follow the wires from them to where they come out of the wire bundle and use these 20-16 gauge Quick Connects. 20 gauge wire works great. My local source is 10 cents each.

For the roll over and flipper buttons sockets my local source is 15 cents each and they come with 12in. wires attached.

For roll over socket power I just attach alligator clips and clip to a local GI bulb under the pf.

IMGA0865.JPG
#448 4 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

You have to move the position of the wiring harness.....

That's what I thought....and then stand on you head inside the cab to see what your doing.

-1
#449 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

That's what I thought....and then stand on you head inside the cab to see what your doing.

It's not terribly bad, really. Much easier than installing the sinking building mod on earthshaker!

#450 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

WOW!!! I'd say you were busy. I hope you plan on selling these. and will all the holes along with the metal entrance flap be in and on it also. Looks nice and thick. Will the pf ramp entrance have to be made deeper because the ramp floor is thicker? So many questions, sorry.

.010 PETG. Besides trying to come up with something different I want to build a little bit of "swoop" into the design to hopefully eliminate the need for the ramp cover. Just setting this test into the game opens up a lot of possibilities to do something creative with the back area...open the game up more. Hope to have one in place to test in the next week. If there is interest in these I could make more. My plan it so install the existing hardware from mine onto this one, although I do have new blue tempered spring steel for the ramp entrance. Also set up to rivet all in place but will use screws for testing. Fun stuff. I'll keep everyone posted and get a photo once in the game.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 36.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 29.99
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 14.00
Electronics
Yorktown Parts and Equip
From: $ 16.95
From: $ 11.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
$ 20.00
Electronics
Yorktown Parts and Equip
$ 29.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
1,300 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Philadelphia, PA
€ 3.95
Flipper Parts
Multigame
$ 131.00
$ 20.00
Electronics
Yorktown Parts and Equip
$ 17.99
$ 40.00
Lighting - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 55.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Photos
$ 28.00
€ 40.00
Boards
FLIPPROJETS
$ 8.50
Lighting - Led
Bright Lights Pinball
$ 22.00
Trade
Machine - For Trade
Seekonk, MA
€ 15.00
Boards
FLIPPROJETS
There are 2462 posts in this topic. You are on page 9 of 50.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside