Test the switches with a ball, not your hand. I'm still guessing you have a flakey switch in the hideout or the trough.

I had some 4 LED pop bumper bulbs that are already in there. Should be pretty bright. Hoping the new ramp design will lighten things up as well.

Hmm.... I think i'll do the same, looks nice.

Ok, will do.

If anyone needs/wants a new diverter ramp cover Bayareaamusements still has them. Mine was yellowed and cracked so it was a $9 no brainer for me. Get um while ya can.

Also test your ball trough switches.

You can adjust the ball trajectory right where it exits the shooter lane..underneath the plastic.

Don't you have sliders under the feet? Is your floor hard or carpet?

You have the back rubber on wrong. If it's not going around the whole diverter assembly and just on and looped around in the front. the rubber will hit the ball and resulting in what your experiencing. 2 rubbers in the back wrapped around assembly. Mine when I got it had 1 black rubber put on wrong and it did what you said. Fix it with 2 white rubbers installed right and orbit shot some combos.

Looks good, home use or putting it out on route? HUO, theres no need for those yellow capacitors. Just saying Before my rebuild a few weeks back, my eos switches I put on 5 years ago still had about another 5-? years of life left. They not needed for HUO.

I can't get my 2 lower flipper coils tight in the bracket, I have squeezed as tight as I can. So my wife without me knowing tells me she fixed it, I said how, she said she put a few drops of super glue in the corners of the coil and coil stop. How do I get this off? I'am sure in time it will break loose on its own, but I'am not liking this one bit. It don't look like a lot and well it is holding tight, but want it done right. Any ideas? What are you douing to keep the coils tight in bracket. I did not have this issue when I rebuilt the flippers 5 years ago. They are the same coils.

I assume you are talking about the coil itself. Generally most coils "float" a little. In other words when it is tightened in place you can wiggle them a little. That's normal. As far as how to get yours out.... Worry about it when it fails, unless it is not performing now.

Usually spring washers help in this situation. Not sure if HS had them from factory though.

I was looking at this and remembered that this was the only rubber I didn't replace. I knew eventually I was going LED and would have to tear down that area so I postponed it. Well I have my LEDS so I think this is motivation needed. After I put it back together with 2 white rubbers, Ill let you know if that fixed my machine. Thanks again for the heads up.

Just got me a High Speed. Have a couple issues with it.

First I think the game logic is messed up.

I think multiball set up should go as follows:
1. Ramp to right lock, release ball.
2. Ramp to right lock, lock.
3. Ramp to left lock, lock.
4. Ball to shooter lane and locks fire locked balls from each side.

Mine is kicking the right lock out twice then locking the 3rd time on the left. Then shooting 2 balls to shooter lane.

Other problem is the sound goes out randomly. It will come back if a lane roll over switch is activated. It will also come back if you press on the main board.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

Well, I'd start by reseating the chips and plugs on the main board. If that solves or changes things, just indicative of bad connections that will probably need to be addressed.

Yeah I'm pretty sure the sound issue is a funky connection. Not so sure about the logic issue. Am I correct in what it should be doing as far as locks? Not having played the game full functioning I'm going off videos.

Back ground sounds is a separate board. Check connectors, it's the board above the MPU. Also check the trough switches. If the trip wire are adjusted so that the weight of the ball closes the switches otherwise the game will be confused. There are also micro switches at the hideouts too, check those as well.

Sound was easy. Just a loose connection where the speaker plugs in. Still having the problem with the multiball locks.

Watching the PAPA gameplay video I see what's going on now. In the video after you shoot the ramp and the left side locks the ball in the hide out, it send one ball to the shooter lane. After it's shot a second is sent out.

Mine is sending both out at the same time. What would be causing that?

Bad switch in the ball trough most likely. Go into switch edge test, and test the switches with a ball.

That's funny, mine is doing the same thing except on the right hideout (ball in left hideout seems to work correctly).
I will experiment some more this weekend and see what happens.

Does anyone know the part number on this switch?

I picked up a high speed working in really great shape for technically 325$ i was told it did not work but when i got it home and plugged it in it was just stuck in audit mode cause battery's were dead i cleaned board put it back in works 99% has a burned out eos so once that is replaced and i Finnish shopping it it will be 100% and reson i say i technically got it for 325 is because it was a package deal i paid 650 for 2 machines 1 upright ms.pacman also told it did not work and got it working with a new fuse holder and 1 hs

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i have all the parts i just took them all off to clean it and do touch up

Great score...

Yeah I would say that was a deal. Hope it cleans up well for you.

Hey guys, anyone doing anything to their game this weekend? I installed dual red leds to my flipper buttons and put a red led under the left roll over switch to light it up.

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Also is this ball popper plastic part #03-9101-9? I just want to make sure before I buy it. Gonna light this one up too. Thanks

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I did the very same thing last summer on mine. Lit both flipper buttons (I only used a single flex), then swapped out the plunger for the translucent red one, then added sockets and lit both stars and the catch as well.

Anyone interested in a set of the habitrail ramps? They are in good condition. I picked up an extra set and had them chromed. This is the untouched original set. Pm me if interested.

Mike

Lordloss, here ya go. Sent ya 2 PM's.

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Lit my saucer, both rollover stars, and added an extra bulb under the ramp myself.

Looks like that right star will be a PITA to light up.

That's funny, I just put a translucent red plunger on mine too. I want to put a red translucent saucer (see above pict.) in mine but is that the right part no.? I think it is.

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I have completed the playfield swap but put it on hold while I fabricate a new vacuum formed ramp. This is the first test pull just to confirm fit. Putting final touches on the mold now and should pull a finished product in the next few days. Trying clear and will add color and decals.

I'am interested in the clear, but just got a new ramp, have not installed yet. Might sell or trade for this clear one.

Where are you getting power to run those sockets? I been wanting to do this! I put in clear flipper buttons, and clear shooter rod, just gotta figure out where to get power, type of wire used, etc. Roll over stars same thing where are you getting power? I know on modern games there is plug connectors for mods but these older machines don't. Let me know how to hook up, and what I need to buy?

WOW!!! I'd say you were busy. I hope you plan on selling these. and will all the holes along with the metal entrance flap be in and on it also. Looks nice and thick. Will the pf ramp entrance have to be made deeper because the ramp floor is thicker? So many questions, sorry.

That is a sweet looking ramp!
Really curious to see how this looks in the game.

Add me to the list if this is ever getting produced for sale!!!

You have to move the position of the wiring harness.....

It's simple, just tap into a close gi circuit for the rollovers and saucer. No need for plug connectors.

From the coin door lamps. Follow the wires from them to where they come out of the wire bundle and use these 20-16 gauge Quick Connects. 20 gauge wire works great. My local source is 10 cents each.

For the roll over and flipper buttons sockets my local source is 15 cents each and they come with 12in. wires attached.

For roll over socket power I just attach alligator clips and clip to a local GI bulb under the pf.

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That's what I thought....and then stand on you head inside the cab to see what your doing.

It's not terribly bad, really. Much easier than installing the sinking building mod on earthshaker!

.010 PETG. Besides trying to come up with something different I want to build a little bit of "swoop" into the design to hopefully eliminate the need for the ramp cover. Just setting this test into the game opens up a lot of possibilities to do something creative with the back area...open the game up more. Hope to have one in place to test in the next week. If there is interest in these I could make more. My plan it so install the existing hardware from mine onto this one, although I do have new blue tempered spring steel for the ramp entrance. Also set up to rivet all in place but will use screws for testing. Fun stuff. I'll keep everyone posted and get a photo once in the game.