(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

By lordloss

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by GRUMPY
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#4351 3 years ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

I only ask because they worked fine prior to swapping the hex buffer.

Are these 2 tabs touching or is it just a bad pic angle?

aaa (resized).jpgaaa (resized).jpg
#4352 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Just a shrink wrap covering, no big deal.

This is the switch that needs to be open.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Checked around under the playfield today. Switches appeared to be okay. A couple of the little metal tabs on the switches that the wires are soldered to were really close. Straightened them out and all seems well. Top flashers are flashing but only during chase I think. Need to play a few more games and watch. They are not flashing when ball hits rollover. Does this sound correct?

Will recheck the other part of that switch.

#4353 3 years ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

Checked around under the playfield today. Switches appeared to be okay. A couple of the little metal tabs on the switches that the wires are soldered to were really close. Straightened them out and all seems well. Top flashers are flashing but only during chase I think. Need to play a few more games and watch. They are not flashing when ball hits rollover. Does this sound correct?
Will recheck the other part of that switch.

Okay, so cancel that. Game played fine but I did not notice top flashers flashing this time. Put it it coil test and top flashers are flashing. Right bumper was also not firing on it's turn. My left flasher lamp base is wonky and I need to get a replacement. Left flashers were not flashing. I left it in the left flasher position to fiddle with it to get it working. Before I got anywhere I noticed the right bumper started releasing some magic smoke so I turned game off. Frustrating because game played just fine 5 minutes before. Checked bumper switched and both are open. Did not try cutting capacitor yet. Guess that's my next move tomorrow. Coil is quite hot right now.

#4354 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Are these 2 tabs touching or is it just a bad pic angle?
[quoted image]

Bad pic angle really. They were not touching but were really close.

#4355 3 years ago

I have another HS that I'm working on and discovered that someone took the actuator and metal plate from the left upper hideout micro switch. The micro is still wired and works. Are they left and right specific? Can I buy just those pieces and/or the entire switch. Can someone provide a part number? I just searched epay for a WMS parts cat. but no luck.

#4356 3 years ago

Planetary pinball has parts manuals online

#4357 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I have another HS that I'm working on and discovered that someone took the actuator and metal plate from the left upper hideout micro switch. The micro is still wired and works. Are they left and right specific? Can I buy just those pieces and/or the entire switch. Can someone provide a part number? I just searched epay for a WMS parts cat. but no luck.

No, not side specific. IIRC that part is discontinued but there's a suitable replacement. I broke one arm and had to replace it...lemme see if I can pull which part I ordered from history (although if yours works, doesn't sound like you need one?)

//edit

This guy: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12693-20

#4358 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

No, not side specific. IIRC that part is discontinued but there's a suitable replacement. I broke one arm and had to replace it...lemme see if I can pull which part I ordered from history (although if yours works, doesn't sound like you need one?)
//edit
This guy: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12693-20

Thanks. It works if you press the little button but the arm and mounting screws
are mia.

Quoted from PinballAir:

Planetary pinball has parts manuals online

I found that but the pages are black and illegible once opened. Tried both from.IPDB and planetary w same results.

#4359 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

No, not side specific. IIRC that part is discontinued but there's a suitable replacement. I broke one arm and had to replace it...lemme see if I can pull which part I ordered from history (although if yours works, doesn't sound like you need one?)
//edit
This guy: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12693-20

It works when pressing the little button but the arm and screws are mia. Got a buddy in FL that's parting an HS and he has one for me. Not free but cheaper than the one on epay

#4360 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

It works when pressing the little button but the arm and screws are mia. Got a buddy in FL that's parting an HS and he has one for me. Not free but cheaper than the one on epay

That works too. I ended up buying the beater wireforms on ebay for 25/shipped. I'll have to weld a new back support piece for one of the lower wireforms but then I think I'll have them powdercoated a solid color to try out. I wanted to leave mine chrome so I can candy coat them red when I'm ready.

#4361 3 years ago

So I cut the capacitor on the right pop bumper. Put game in coil test and everything tested fine. Played a game to test it out. Played fine until the third ball when I started getting some random bumps on the right pop bumper. It wasn't hammering away or locking on, just a few random pops and the ring seemed to be mostly staying in the middle. I turned game off before any more magic smoke could come out. Could the bypassed capacitor cause this behavior or am I still chasing gremlins? Tried to figure out which capacitors they are but could not find them on GPE. Anyone able to help identify them? 22uf 25v radial capacitor?
Also- I have the instruction manual but where can I find the playfield schematics? Found a 78 page trouble shooting system 9 manual online that mentions High Speed but I haven't gotten all the way through it yet.

20210208_221042 (resized).jpg20210208_221042 (resized).jpg20210208_221320 (resized).jpg20210208_221320 (resized).jpg20210208_221447 (resized).jpg20210208_221447 (resized).jpg20210208_221527 (resized).jpg20210208_221527 (resized).jpg
#4362 3 years ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

So I cut the capacitor on the right pop bumper. Put game in coil test and everything tested fine. Played a game to test it out. Played fine until the third ball when I started getting some random bumps on the right pop bumper. It wasn't hammering away or locking on, just a few random pops and the ring seemed to be mostly staying in the middle. I turned game off before any more magic smoke could come out. Could the bypassed capacitor cause this behavior or am I still chasing gremlins? Tried to figure out which capacitors they are but could not find them on GPE. Anyone able to help identify them? 22uf 25v radial capacitor?
Also- I have the instruction manual but where can I find the playfield schematics? Found a 78 page trouble shooting system 9 manual online that mentions High Speed but I haven't gotten all the way through it yet.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Maybe a good starting point would be to replace all 5 on the game with new. Then retest.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CEA-22uF-50V-VX

Oh yeah, make sure they go in the correct direction.

#4363 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Maybe a good starting point would be to replace all 5 on the game with new. Then retest.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CEA-22uF-50V-VX
Oh yeah, make sure they go in the correct direction.

Where are the other 2? Only saw these 2 other types.
Okay, I see now that 2 are the 50v ones you show. That would explain why I could not find 25v ones. The larger ones are snubbers I think.

20210207_142639 (resized).jpg20210207_142639 (resized).jpg20210207_142739 (resized).jpg20210207_142739 (resized).jpg
#4364 3 years ago

3 pop bumpers and 2 kickers.

Snubber relays are a whole different thing, some other time maybe if they are giving trouble.

25 volt caps are all that are needed but harder to find. 50 volt caps are easy to find and are more durable.

#4365 3 years ago

Anyone have an extra credit and a numeric display they’re willing to sale? Let me know thanks

#4366 3 years ago

So Great Plains is currently not doing any shipping due to staffing and backlog. Found these at Micro Center. Since it looks like 2 have already been replaced I'll do the three pop bumpers seeing as how they don't have enough available currently.

https://90a1c75758623581b3f8-5c119c3de181c9857fcb2784776b17ef.ssl.cf2.rackcdn.com//466101_092072_01_front_zoom.jpg

#4367 3 years ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

So Great Plains is currently not doing any shipping due to staffing and backlog. Found these at Micro Center. Since it looks like 2 have already been replaced I'll do the three pop bumpers seeing as how they don't have enough available currently.
https://90a1c75758623581b3f8-5c119c3de181c9857fcb2784776b17ef.ssl.cf2.rackcdn.com//466101_092072_01_front_zoom.jpg

Oh no, don't tell me that... I have an order in, waiting to be shipped..

#4368 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Oh no, don't tell me that... I have an order in, waiting to be shipped..

News on home page says one person working......

My last order was placed on Jan 19. Received it on Feb 3.

#4369 3 years ago

Groan. Fingers crossed that my order is moving along. I did get an update this morning.

I think you'll be fine buying caps and things like that from just about anywhere -- so long as you make sure the values are correct. Unlike stupid .100 connectors which don't seem to EXIST anywhere else, I think you've got plenty of options for generic electronic parts.

#4370 3 years ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

So Great Plains is currently not doing any shipping due to staffing and backlog. Found these at Micro Center. Since it looks like 2 have already been replaced I'll do the three pop bumpers seeing as how they don't have enough available currently.
https://90a1c75758623581b3f8-5c119c3de181c9857fcb2784776b17ef.ssl.cf2.rackcdn.com//466101_092072_01_front_zoom.jpg

I ordered stuff after the first of the year from GPE. I had to wait until his order backlog cleared. I just had to be patient.

#4372 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

That works too. I ended up buying the beater wireforms on ebay for 25/shipped. I'll have to weld a new back support piece for one of the lower wireforms but then I think I'll have them powdercoated a solid color to try out. I wanted to leave mine chrome so I can candy coat them red when I'm ready.

Didn't grab the others from Grumpy?

#4373 3 years ago
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

Didn't grab the others from Grumpy?

Waiting on pics lol

The lower right one of these is missing the rear support.. no idea if that will work at all. But they'll be okay for experimenting with powdercoat. I figured it was pretty hard to go wrong for $25.

#4374 3 years ago

So while I'm waiting on capacitors I'm still having an issue with my kick back. Cleaned and adjusted switch because it was missing a kick back here and there. Now it sometimes takes 2 or 3 shots at the ball to kick it out. Could this be the resistor (doesn't look like a capacitor)on the coil? Time for a new coil? New switch and see what happens?

#4375 3 years ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

So while I'm waiting on capacitors I'm still having an issue with my kick back. Cleaned and adjusted switch because it was missing a kick back here and there. Now it sometimes takes 2 or 3 shots at the ball to kick it out. Could this be the resistor (doesn't look like a capacitor)on the coil? Time for a new coil? New switch and see what happens?

This is why I hate pinball. Fiddled with the switch some more and opened it up a bit wider. Seems to be behaving for now.

#4376 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Waiting on pics lol

I'm old and to slow.

Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

I figured it was pretty hard to go wrong for $25.

This is a great deal, hard to pass up on.

Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

The lower right one of these is missing the rear support..

Weld one on, good as new for powder coating.

#4377 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I'm old and to slow.

This is a great deal, hard to pass up on.

Weld one on, good as new for powder coating.

I didn't mean my comment on you critically! Absolutely NO rush. I grabbed these because they were so cheap. Seemed silly not to. No idea what kind of condition they're in... probably not great lol

Mine are nice and I hand polished them. It would be a shame to slap a solid coat of powder over them!

#4378 3 years ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

Could this be the resistor (doesn't look like a capacitor)on the coil? Time for a new coil?

No, this is a diode. No, coils either work or don't.

Quoted from Hangernade:

New switch and see what happens?

Maybe, the gold coating on the contacts may have worn thru. You can clean them with a crisp new dollar bill, and see if that helps. If this helps for a couple weeks and then it goes back to misfiring, then replace the switch and diode with new.

#4379 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

I didn't mean my comment on you critically!

I didn't take it that way, I was just being very honest. Had to service both mine and wife's vehicles on Sunday and time just got the better of me.

#4380 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I didn't take it that way, I was just being very honest. Had to service both mine and wife's vehicles on Sunday and time just got the better of me.

I sold a shuffle bowler to someone and enough time lapsed on me fixing it that I'm buying it back. So I know.

#4381 3 years ago

Here a pic. They are complete, no broken welds. Chrome looks very good. Maybe a 9-9.5 out 10 with some hand polishing.

WIN_20210209_20_41_03_Pro (resized).jpgWIN_20210209_20_41_03_Pro (resized).jpgWIN_20210209_20_41_28_Pro (resized).jpgWIN_20210209_20_41_28_Pro (resized).jpg
#4382 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Here a pic. They are complete, no broken welds. Chrome looks very good. Maybe a 9-9.5 out 10 with some hand polishing.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah those look great. Nev-R-Dull (if it's even necessary at all) would take care of any issues they did have.

How much? Do you accept kidneys?

#4383 3 years ago

Hello guys.

I am dealing with a problem with my high speed restoration project.

The siren light it's not working at all however when I am supplying it with power independently it's factional.

...and it's not the fuse

#4384 3 years ago

By the way Grumpy I want to thank you for all your help. My flashers are flashing properly and I owe it all too you!

#4385 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Having some issues with my HS that was in storage for a couple of years. Set up a few weeks ago. Placed new batts in the remote holder. It is not keeping memory and on every power up she goes to "adjust failure".
Next I had about 5 switches not working. As of yesterday about 12 not working and I haven't touched the game in between. I checked the connectors from head to PF and all seem tight. Re-seated 1J8 and 1J10. No change. No stuck switched in test mode
This was pre-existing prior to storage, Some segments out on both alpha numeric displays, although all light in test mode.
Need some help as I'm green to sys11. Most of my games are early SS.

anyone?

#4386 3 years ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

By the way Grumpy I want to thank you for all your help.

Playball!

#4387 3 years ago

You sure the solder joints for the remote battery are good? Try redoing them to make sure there's no issue there? There's no reason it shouldn't hold memory of the pavk is good and the solder joints are good. If those both check out but it still won't hold, I'd imagine there's other damage to the board. Me being simple as I am, that's where I'd be shipping them off to my board guy. Lol

What are your results in edge test for the switches that are acting up?

#4388 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Having some issues with my HS that was in storage for a couple of years. Set up a few weeks ago. Placed new batts in the remote holder. It is not keeping memory and on every power up she goes to "adjust failure".

Most likely the battery holder is bad, or D-2 is open.

Quoted from Lovef2k:

Next I had about 5 switches not working. As of yesterday about 12 not working and I haven't touched the game in between. I checked the connectors from head to PF and all seem tight. Re-seated 1J8 and 1J10. No change. No stuck switched in test mode

Which switches? Most likely a broken wire.

Quoted from Lovef2k:

Some segments out on both alpha numeric displays, although all light in test mode.

How about a pic.

#4389 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

You sure the solder joints for the remote battery are good? Try redoing them to make sure there's no issue there? There's no reason it shouldn't hold memory of the pavk is good and the solder joints are good. If those both check out but it still won't hold, I'd imagine there's other damage to the board. Me being simple as I am, that's where I'd be shipping them off to my board guy. Lol
What are your results in edge test for the switches that are acting up?

Thanks I was suspecting the same about the batt holder leads. The wire is running behind the CPU and the two wires are braided together so pulling on them doesn't show any loose connection. I have 11 switches out, no stuck switches

#4390 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Most likely the battery holder is bad, or D-2 is open.

Which switches? Most likely a broken wire.

How about a pic.

I will try to take a vid of the displays. Segment M is out and R is doing weird things. flickering and lighting when it shouldn't and not when it should but all work in self test.

11 switches out, all 3 upper and middle traffic light stand up targets, green lower stand up, kick back lane, both flipper return lanes and the lower left hideout micro.

I will look for D2 and check it.

Upper PF flasher and backbox flasher don't work.

#4391 3 years ago

Made a little progress w the switches. While testing each switch I pushed on connector 1J8 and some started working again, still not working are in row 7, which are lower L stop target green #15, R stoplight bank yel # 23, L outlane #31 and upper L hideout #39. The other 2 switches in that row are working so I need to find the common denominator. It's weird that the switch before those 4 and the switch after on the matrix table are working. I'm thinking maybe a break in continuity between 39 and 47 is possible since the first switch in the row is on the coin door.

I also want to add that the alpha numeric displays only work fully when it's testing only one digit at a time, when doing all at once, the segments are missing as they are in game play.

#4392 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Made a little progress w the switches. While testing each switch I pushed on connector 1J8 and some started working again, still not working are in row 7, which are lower L stop target green #15, R stoplight bank yel # 23, L outlane #31 and upper L hideout #39. The other 2 switches in that row are working so I need to find the common denominator. It's weird that the switch before those 4 and the switch after on the matrix table are working. I'm thinking maybe a break in continuity between 39 and 47 is possible since the first switch in the row is on the coin door.
I also want to add that the alpha numeric displays only work fully when it's testing only one digit at a time, when doing all at once, the segments are missing as they are in game play.

You need to post a pic of the CPU board.

#4393 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You need to post a pic of the CPU board.

Will do. Any specific area you want to see? I found the break in the switches. Will post a pic of that as well. Also found broken diode lead on left eos switch engine reving feature.

#4394 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Also found broken diode lead on left eos switch engine reving feature.

A new diode should fix this one.

Quoted from Lovef2k:

Any specific area you want to see?

Just a good pic of the center of the board from ribbon cables to J-8.

#4395 3 years ago

Here was the bad switches. Then you pushed on J-8 and some started working. Mark which ones that are still not working. Do you think J-8 connector is bad or that there is a cracked solder joint on the header pin.

aaa (resized).PNGaaa (resized).PNG
#4396 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Here was the bad switches. Then you pushed on J-8 and some started working. Mark which ones that are still not working. Do you think J-8 connector is bad or that there is a cracked solder joint on the header pin.
[quoted image]

Thanks for taking the time to highlight the chart and post it. Actually sw 39 was out, not 40. I got mixed up with upper and lower. I was thinking vertical, not top to bottom of PF. But like I said in post #4393, I found the broken wire. it goes on a solder lug below the PF by the micro switch, of course it's in a tight spot. I did replace the broken diode on the left EOS.

Also as you mentioned, the battery holder is wonky. I fiddled w the batteries until I read 4.8V on the connector. So need/should replace.

The CPU has been worked on as you can see. Serial number doesn't match so probably not original, but this is how I got the game several years ago.

P2140160 (resized).JPGP2140160 (resized).JPGP2140161 (resized).JPGP2140161 (resized).JPGP2140162 (resized).JPGP2140162 (resized).JPGP2140163 (resized).JPGP2140163 (resized).JPG
#4397 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

The CPU has been worked on as you can see

This cpu has had some serious alkaline damage in the past. I have seen this type of damage run down the board to J-8. To which the connector and the header pins need to be replaced to insure good connections in the future.

With the much alkaline above the battery holder I'm surprised that the displays work at all.

#4398 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

This cpu has had some serious alkaline damage in the past. I have seen this type of damage run down the board to J-8. To which the connector and the header pins need to be replaced to insure good connections in the future.
With the much alkaline above the battery holder I'm surprised that the displays work at all.

Yes this CPU has had serious trouble in the past. But it's been very reliable, minus the display issues, since I bought the game probably 10 years ago. I did buy a clean CPU years ago but never needed to install it. But it might be time now. I will pull the original and take a look at the lower header pins.

Thanks for your guidance!

#4399 3 years ago

Installed new capacitors on my pop bumpers. Was having am issue with the right bumper which seems to be fixed now. Took almost an hour to get all the switches working properly afterwards. Now the top bumper is acting quirky. A couple of times the metal ring dropped and stayed down, and while down the ball seemed to be magnetized to it. The ball was swinging around it until I turned the game off. While looking under the playfield I can see that the coil wires have been re-soldered but not sure why they were removed/replaced. The coil pistons seem to have a fair amount of slop in them and I don't know what is considered normal. Am I looking at more switch adjustment to fix this issue or could the piston be binding in the sleeve?

#4400 3 years ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

Installed new capacitors on my pop bumpers. Was having am issue with the right bumper which seems to be fixed now. Took almost an hour to get all the switches working properly afterwards. Now the top bumper is acting quirky. A couple of times the metal ring dropped and stayed down, and while down the ball seemed to be magnetized to it. The ball was swinging around it until I turned the game off. While looking under the playfield I can see that the coil wires have been re-soldered but not sure why they were removed/replaced. The coil pistons seem to have a fair amount of slop in them and I don't know what is considered normal. Am I looking at more switch adjustment to fix this issue or could the piston be binding in the sleeve?

Change the balls. Also replace sleeves and return springs which may be worn out. The stronger the spring the snappier the pops will be. I would also inspect the other parts like the yoke and back plate and plunger and the entire bracket. Also make sure bracket is tight to the pf. Lock nuts can work loose.

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