Just ran down and threw a quarter in and it worked so must be free play! Thanks for pointing out my error!

Bwahahahaha, got ya with the little stuff!

Good job on the NVRAM install! Head into the service menu and set it to freeplay again and you're good to go.

Never done NVRAM, but doesn't it take a while to charge? Engine sound but no game start??? Balls in the trough?

I'm more than happy to have it be something dumb. I've had the nvram for over a month but was hesitant to do it. Battery holder has already been replaced. Did not get a picture yet of what was in it.

Can't answer you about the charging, not really sure.
Apparently, in a pay to play environment if you push the start button without putting quarters in it just makes the engine cranking sound, as if your car is having engine trouble and won't start. Switched it to freeplay and all is well.

Something dumb: The Jordan Bayless Story

This-this is what a former owner of my game put inside. Kind of embarrassing that I left it in there this long.

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Its probably better that he didn't try to solder to the cpu lol

Call me crazy but I don't see anything wrong with this, didn't hurt the game, totally reversible and left the game original. Ok maybe the wires could have been longer and it should have had lithium batteries.

Top 4 reasons for CPU damage in pinball machines:

1. Nicad batteries being charged constantly on the CPU.
2. Changing the formula of Alkaline AA batteries causing them to leak prematurely.
3. Installing leds.
4. Installing NVRAM chips.

There was a time not so long ago when remote battery holders and bleed capacitors were the only option.
I installed remote battery holders in every game i owned.
I would run the wires down to next to the coin box so i could change them without moving the machine. I would solder short wire male / female plugs at the board so i could remove it.

I really don't think that's all that bad, lol. Just as grumpy noted.

Rather ingenious I kinda thought. A bit caveman but it worked I suppose. I actually had a good Laugh when I was that!

Yeah the gold screw isn't really necessary.

LOL other than to hold the wire tie that holds the wires.

I love the + - red and black felt tip labeling. And whoever did it had to sand down the pegs to the correct size. A lot of work was put into this.

...AND... did not even cut the wire tie end but neatly wrapped it around. JUST LOL

That is beautiful! The zip tie flourish is like a bow on top.

Upgraded my flashers to LEDs. Disconnected the black wire from each of the 330 ohm resistors. Flashers look and work great except for the two red light flashers on left side. Was unable to notice it during game play but in solenoid test they just do one weak "flick". Incans did still work after removing black wire prior to switching bulbs. Anyone have any ideas?

I may have a remote battery holder for sale.....

Check the wires for the correct polarity on the bulb sockets.

Will check tonight. Also noticed earlier that the kickback light is now staying on all the time. Don't know if it's related.

Shouldn't be related to the flasher issue. You did insulate the ground wires you removed from the resistor boards?

Yes, shrink wrapped them.

Curious how installing leds can screw up the cpu

I have seen this hundreds of times, people installing leds with the power on to see if they like the color and short the lamp matrix to the gi or worse yet to a coil.

Ahhhh gotcha

So here we go.
Two steps forward and one step back. While kludging around switching incans and LEDs and trying to do a polarity test that I'm not sure I was doing right ( Dammit Jim I'm a doctor not an electrical engineer!)I actually got the LED flashers working. Turns out my gorilla fingers touching things were jiggling around the upper flasher lamp socket. Said socket is apparently loosely put together and making intermittent connection. I have it stabilized for the moment and working but will need to replace it.

As for my kickback light staying on, now the kickback isn't kicking back(Who doesn't like a little kickback?). Didn't really get to check that yet but noticed it when I played a couple games after my flasher thrashing.

The sound on my game has been my nemesis for years. The problem is that the background music is much much louder then then other sounds (rollovers, spinners, targets, ect.) Some sounds like the horn and some call-outs are wayyyyy louder then they need to be. I've had the board looked at, I just swapped the aux sound board with a Kohout board (seems to help a little). The only thing that I haven't switched out is the potentiometer. Anyone know what the correct one for Highspeed is and if there should be a resistor in series with the ground (I saw another post suggest this)?

There is a fuse going to the kicker. Start there.

Check the switch in switch test.

Do you have the correct CPU board in the game?

Yes I do have the original Williams board.

Has there been any repairs done to the upper left corner of the cpu board?

Not going to lie. Only had This game a few months now but wow is it fun to play. It’s sad to say I have played this more than my stern tmnt lately haha. Definitely more forgiving

Is it normal or not normal for the game to knock when awarded an extra ball? Game was not knocking before but is now. Not sure which way I like it better but could not find how to change it.

Does the knocker work in test mode? If so, I had an issue with mine not working during gameplay and this was the solution.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-club-dispatch-this-is-504-we-have-a-club-now-over/page/81#post-5982743

Yes, I had to change it from credit to extra ball. It knocked before when you were awarded a credit. Now it knocks for a free ball. Just not sure which is "normal".

It is normal if you win extra ball as high scoreor get the special.

It does. I don't have the skill myself to work on the boards, so I've had them professional checked out when I get a game.

How about a pic of the CPU board.

Has anyone here done a CPR playfield swap on a High Speed? Looking at my new PF it does not have any registration marks to place the pivot point hardware. It seems a bit odd for such an important piece that has to be in the right place.

I found the same issue too. I did one recently although it was an older one:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-cpr-playfield-swap

Can you tell me what the colors are on this resistor?

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When hitting the flippers my LED flashers get a "flick" most times. Flipper switches look like former owner replaced them. They look new, clean, and spaced properly. Would adding the capacitors that newer flippers use stop the "flicking"?

R23 looks like it's Gold\Red\Violet\Red. There is one above it and it and it looks like it's a different color, Gold\Orange\Violet\Red.

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Thanks both Dewman dmacy , and I will read through that thread. Not a big deal, just surprised such a major feature was missing.

I finished a complete #HS restore a few months ago. I had to replace my cabinet as well.

This was my first full restore and CPR playfield swap. Placing the pivots on the PF was not an easy task. I did not have my cabinet when I started the PF swap. The best time to install the pivots is when there are no mechanics on the playfield.

I measured and remeasured many times before finally drilling pilot holes and mounting the pivots. It came out perfect and I was very happy with the results. When lowering the playfield the hangers line up without any extra force to get it aligned.

Just make sure you measure precisely from the old playfield and transfer those measurements to the new one.

IMPORTANT: If yo are measuring from the edge of the new playfield to the hinge point be sure you match up your old PF to the new PF. ANY difference will make your measurements off. Pay particular attention to the shooter lane area. My new CPR playfield was a little different from my old one.

I planned to it almost first once the old one gets pulled out. Just to check, when you said edge, you meant from the side or from the bottom end?

Sorry, I was not very specific.

The cutout on my CPR shooter lane was different than the original PF. Pay close attention to the shooter lane area if you use a tape measure from the end of the playfield (on the shooter side) to where you will be mounting the hinge.

Line up both playfields together and note any difference in the shooter lane areas.

You can measure from either end of the playfield to place the hinge bracket. If the CPR playfield is longer or shorter than the OEM PF you will need to be very careful with your measurements.

Okay, I replaced the hex buffer at U49. Put it in coil test and no top flashers. Going through the coil tests the remaining coils that were not firing were now firing in test mode except for 19 r. jet bumper. It has been working during game play, so I tried to play a game to test it. As soon as I push start the right kicker locks on until I turn game off. Did that 3 times. Tried to go back into test mode to see if that now showed up. As soon as I start pushing buttons to get to coil test the right pop bumper starts chattering and locking on I think. Turned it off for the night at that point and unplugged it. Did I screw something up or is the replaced hex buffer amplifying another issue?