That's probably more my data entry than anything else.

But that leads to a follow-up question. I have a SFL-23-600/30-2600 coil. But that coil has the one diode on it, while the drawings in the manual have 2. Is that significant? The wire hookups look to be the same based on a prior pinside post about parallel and serial coils.

Thanks.

-- M

I didn't see where the manual showed 2 diodes. But I can tell you for certain it only needs one.

Yes, the manual only shows one diode in the drawing. I'm more just confused because of my diverse collection of coils in my machine. . Two of my 3 coils have 2 diodes.

The conversation has picked up in that other thread, so we can discuss over there.

-- M

Probably an easy fix/cleaning issue... Recently on one of the signal targets the green and yellow don't register when hit.

Thoughts?

Clean the contacts with a business card.
Pop up playfield and look if the yellow wire that feeds them fell off

I recall somewhere someone saying similar so was hoping it would be that simple. Will do it and report back. thank you.

Could also be a bad diode on the switch.

So had something weird over the weekend. Left side of back box gi was cutting in and out. Probably cold solder joint on the chain?

There are 2 circuits for the Lights on the back panel. Most likely its a bad wire or a bad connection in the 6 pin molex connector. Check the Green and White/Green wires.

Will do. Thank you sir

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Hey everyone, I just picked up a HS from a local guy who has had it in his house for 20 years. Man was this thing neglected. They thought it was broken but had never replaced the batteries.... Bought it for a cool $725 not knowing if it played. Got it home and cleaned up and everything but the player 4 display worked. Replaced all the flipper hardware and eject mech on the back, got lucky and a buddy had a display. Ordered a new piece of glass today as the old one looks like it got hit by a weed eater. I think after the LED upgrade I will have about $1250 in it so I think I came out ahead. Have a few chips in the cabinet to fill and going to let my daughter do some touch up paint. The left front corner of the cabinet split during the move so had to glue it back and upgraded the hardware for the legs. Here are a few pics after I cleaned her up. Anything I should take a look at, I have started reading through this forum and have made it to about the 15th page. There is a lot of info in this..... Thanks for any input.

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Welcome to the club. looks like you got a nice one!!

Hmmm... you seem to be the guru of this machine... I went to go and clean it first to see if that was teh easy solution. I wanted to test it first... and now they seem to be registering each hit. Does that still sound like dirt/grime build up or more diode type issues>

Thanks in advance Grumpy.

Looks like a nice grab for $725. Got my $800 pull beat.

Love High Speed! Can't wait to bring mine back home again.

Before and after.

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Congrats. Great find. There are some must do items with System 11.

First is to install fuses to protect the Bridge Rectifiers in the back box. There are a couple ways to do this. The least expensive is to install 2 fuses inline. See this post here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-club-dispatch-this-is-504-we-have-a-club-now-over/page/82#post-6012108
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-club-dispatch-this-is-504-we-have-a-club-now-over/page/73#post-5675677

The other way is: (this also eliminates the bulky Capacitor in the back box.
https://home.kpn.nl/p.koch3/bridge_board.htm

replace the capacitors on your Power Supply

resolder head pins on all the boards in the backbox

remove the batteries and holder and replace with NVRAM to prevent battery acid damage.

Dirt.

Thanks for the info, got the fuse holders coming with my glass order. Unfortunately they are out of NVRAM at the time but its on my list.

A remote battery would be a good thing in the interim, or at least some Energizer Lithium AAs. Or both.

yea i put some good batteries in it, i cant believe the ones from the 90s that were in it didn't bust. Quick question, what is the number display on the cpu beside the batteries, haven't seen that before.

Thanks

that is for diagnostics. it will give you a number code if there are issues.

My Taxi had batteries with an exp date of 2001. They did leak, but only on the (non-original) battery holder and I was able to clean it off. I still need to clip and solder on a remote battery until I send my boards off for bulletproofing, I just haven't gotten around to it. Didn't want to lose my high scores...

you still may have some damage to other things on the board from the battery. plus, you never really get the battery holder fully clean. best to get that off and get someone to do a clean up job on it soon. it's ok if you lose the high scores, you just have to try harder to set new ones

Beautiful. Thank you sir.

Oh for sure. It needs clipped and a remote pack installed *at the very least*.

It's not an original battery holder which is interesting..so my guess is that the batteries exploded on that one and this is now round 2 of it. Hate to jinx myself but I've not had a single issue with it since I cleaned the terminals and put in good batteries. But yes, it needs to go, and those boards really need bulletproofed, soon. I'm not selling taxi so it's money well spent.

These are LED Pinscore displays that have been on and fine for a little more than a month. I reseated both sides of the ribbon cable coming out of the MPU with no change. The board has a test button on it and when I press that it changes what is displayed, but it’s still not clear. Because the test button would just be sending info to the displays and not getting data from the MPU I have a feeling it’s the board that all of the displays plugged in. Any thoughts?

You might want to try loosening the 4 screws inside the cabinet on the shooter housing. Adjust the housing to the right for a more centered position with the pinball. Might be worth a try before attempting to sand the trough. Good Luck!!

I had my High Speed at the NW Pinball Show several years ago when I introduced my new clear ramp. Steve Richie was at the show and I asked him to stop by and see the new ramp. He asked to see it right away. Just the difference in the level of the machine at the show vs at my home, created a shooter problem similar to what you are experiencing.....if you open up your machine and then lift up on the right side, you will see the effect this has on the alignment of the shooter rod in relation to the center of the ball. This can be adjusted by loosening the shooter housing and then adjusting....

Sorry for the long story, but the end of the story is the best part. Steve Richie said, "you now how we fixed that at the factory?....2 by 4 and a big hammer!"

Good luck!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-club-dispatch-this-is-504-we-have-a-club-now-over/page/80#post-5967898

What I did to my machine is I lifted up the playfield and took out the two screws holding in the right side rail. I then found out where the ball would no longer rub the side rail and reinstalled the two screws on the underside of the playfield. Obviously if it’s rubbing more than just above the shooter rod just remove a couple more screws until the ball is not/barely touching the side rail.

Has the cpu board had acid damage?

I've seen this on two HS machines. On both there was a break at the ceramic resistor on the board that powers the flashers.

You are correct in saying the bulbs are in pairs wired in series. So if one bulb burns out then neither bulb will work. So start by replacing both bulbs with known working bulbs. If you are using led flash bulbs, you need to insure the the lamp socket is wiring is polarity correct or they will not work. Also when you run a test for the flashers you need to run solenoid test (solenoid #22) and not a lamp test. During a game this flasher is controlled by the two roll over switches at the top of the game. If new bulbs don't work in solenoid test you can take a jumper wire with one end tied to the ground braid, touch the other end to the metal tab of Q-79. If they work with the jumper and not in test, you have a board issue. If they don't work in test or with the jumper you have a playfield issue.

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Your a fast learner!

I am going through my whole machine replacing old capacitors that have high equivalent series resistance. There are two caps on little boards associated with the hideout relays which lets them use 50V like the flippers. For some reason there is a similar looking relay near the left outlane kick back solenoid but it still uses the 25V circuit and that relay has a diode and resistor on a little board but no cap. I cannot find any diagrama showing these little boards and want to make sure the cap isn't just missing.

The positive power for the top flasher bulbs is a pair of red wires on the left flash bulb socket. It needs to be on the center pin of the socket just like my pic except these are orange wires. The other wire should be a brown wire connected to the side terminal. This brown wire goes over to the right bulb socket and should connect to the center pin. The side terminal should have a light orange wire on it, it will go to the resistor board and connect to both resistors. A black wire will connect to the other end of the 330 ohm resistor. A blue/black wire will connect to the other end of the 5 ohm resistor. You will need to remove the black wire or lift one end of the 330 ohm resistor to keep the leds from staying lit all the time. If this is wired correctly then take your jumper wire and connect it to the ground braid and the other end you BRIEFLY touch it to the light orange wire, the flash lamps should light. If that works then touch the jumper to the blue/black wire. If they don't work then the 5 ohm resistor is bad.

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Since it didn't work when grounding, you either have a broken wire (orange or brown) or you don't have power on the red wire. Start by testing for power on the red wire. Then test the brown wire at the right lamp. Lastly test for power on the orange wire at the resistor.

Do you have a logic probe?

Yep.

This is the one I use.

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiQ3u2UupruAhXKU9UKHU5IBYIYABAGGgJpbQ&sig=AOD64_3pjAhou6DO1EGcaPm0x7RtY9a-VA&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwi03-WUupruAhWNGs0KHWmxBW8Q9aACegQIBxBC&adurl=

Not that I can see and I have had NVRAM in there for a while. I flipped the ribbon from the MPU and that didn't change anything. I reversed it so the red on both sides was opposite from what it normally is and that cleared it up. So I'll order a new ribbon cable so the red wire is pointing to the correct pin.