4 Aces
Williams, 1970
Baby Pac-Man
Bally, 1982
Buck Rogers
Mambelli, 1980
Camel Lights
Game Plan, 1978
Comet
Williams, 1985
Cyclone
Williams, 1988
Genesis
Gottlieb, 1986
Getaway: High Speed II, The
Williams, 1992Well here is my temporary fix. If anyone has an extra flap for this around, I'd be much obliged. I had a few sys6 flap gates, but didn't realize this one is a bit wider and the housing is welded to the guide.
I saw at one point, there were repros to be had (just the flap). I guess that's all I need.
Thank you-
20201212_174917 (1) (resized).jpgQuoted from koji:Well here is my temporary fix. If anyone has an extra flap for this around, I'd be much obliged. I had a few sys6 flap gates, but didn't realize this one is a bit wider and the housing is welded to the guide.
I saw at one point, there were repros to be had (just the flap). I guess that's all I need.
Thank you-
[quoted image]
Mine was missing too, this is what I used:
Quoted from Bellagio:Mine was missing too, this is what I used:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-6935
Cool thanks.. when I looked last it was out of stock.. but I guess it's back in. Thanks for the link!
Quoted from LGFAutos:Also you can have a look to see if your machine has had the 2 8amp sb fuses fitted to protect your machine just before the 2 bridge rectifiers in the back box bottom right. (this mod is a must)
Where is info on how to do this for High Speed...thanks.
New to the Club. As you can see someone mounded the Volume knob to the front. Can someone please post a picture of the correct place it goes? I’m going to plug the hole with nylon insert plug. repaint the coin door and glass bead the legs. bondo and color match the chips in the wood...Thanks.
753286BC-8758-4C2C-8502-FFD6097046C5 (resized).jpeg7AE72B83-7588-495F-A6C6-1CE5D88D5D6E (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Gorgar666:Where is info on how to do this for High Speed...thanks.
Find the bridge rectifiers in the lower right back box. Cut one of the blue wires and one of the red wires. Install a fuse holder in between the red wires and another fuse holder in between the blue wires. Install a 8 amp slow blow fuse in each holder.
pi (resized).PNGQuoted from Gorgar666:New to the Club. As you can see some mounded the Volume knob to the front. Can someone please post a picture of the correct place it goes? I’m going to plug the hole with plastic covers. Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image]
IMG_6274 (resized).jpgQuoted from Gorgar666:New to the Club. As you can see someone mounded the Volume knob to the front. Can someone please post a picture of the correct place it goes? I’m going to plug the hole with nylon insert plug. repaint the coin door and glass bead the legs. bondo and color match the chips in the wood...Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Oh man, someone take their hole saw away please! Forever!
Quoted from GRUMPY:You could check the voltage of the blanking signal.
Do you know where I can find the process to test the blanking signal/circuit? I don't see anything in pinwiki, Google isn't pulling up anything specific, and this is the only info I can find on the other troubleshooting site I typically use:
The Blanking Circuit.
The blanking circuit is a protection circuit. If it senses there is a problem with the CPU board, it will shut down many functions on the board (including the score display strobes, so the display glass isn't damaged). The blanking circuit must be inactive for the CPU board to boot and function. The blanking circuit is reset by the display strobes. Blanking problems can also be caused by a short in any connecting logic chips.
Quoted from desertT1:The blanking circuit is a protection circuit.
Yes.
Quoted from desertT1:The blanking circuit must be inactive for the CPU board to boot and function.
Or random coils and lamps would lock on and melt down TIPs. Once the CPU has booted the blanking signal is active. This active blanking signal also goes to the decoding circuit for the seven segment display on the CPU.
blanking (resized).PNGQuoted from GRUMPY:Yes.
Or random coils and lamps would lock on and melt down TIPs. Once the CPU has booted the blanking signal is active. This active blanking signal also goes to the decoding circuit for the seven segment display on the CPU.
[quoted image]
If I'm reading this correctly U48 pin 6 should get 5V? I am getting that, and on SR19-6, and if it says SR13-5 I am getting 5V there too.
Quoted from desertT1:If I'm reading this correctly U48 pin 6 should get 5V? I am getting that
After booting correctly this should be a low.
Quoted from GRUMPY:After booting correctly this should be a low.
Is the CPU controlling that? Don’t think I’ve replaced that quite yet.
U-43 555 chip makes the blanking signal. U-51 PIA chip pin 4 resets U-43 chip by way of U-36 and Q-50. If U-43 doesn't get reset at the correct intervals it will stay low disabling solenoids, displays and lamps. If U-43 is reset correctly the output will be high on pin 3.
Quoted from GRUMPY:U-43 555 chip makes the blanking signal. U-51 PIA chip pin 4 resets U-43 chip by way of U-36 and Q-50. If U-43 doesn't get reset at the correct intervals it will stay low disabling solenoids, displays and lamps. If U-43 is reset correctly the output will be high on pin 3.
U43-3 is low. U51-4 is 4.75V. U55-1 is low, U55-2 is 5V. SR20-4 is low, the rest are all 5V.
Quoted from desertT1:U43-3 is low. U51-4 is 4.75V. U55-1 is low, U55-2 is 5V. SR20-4 is low, the rest are all 5V.
Have you tested the reset circuit?
Quoted from GRUMPY:Have you tested the reset circuit?
Is that at simple as seeing 4.96V on the reset test point and saying it’s good?
Quoted from desertT1:Is that at simple as seeing 4.96V on the reset test point and saying it’s good?
The reset circuit is active during power up. It is low for a specific amount of time then goes high. This reset pulse goes to a number of chips to to synchronize the timing of these chips. Connect your logic probe to the reset pin, then power on the game. Should read low for @ a third of a second then go high. If the pulse is too short or non existent, the CPU wont boot correctly. This reset pulse needs to be checked at all chips it goes to.
Quoted from Gorgar666:Let’s see your High Speed Key Fob. I can’t find one for sale...
If you make your own you can get them all to match. 
Keys (resized).jpgQuoted from EStroh:If you make your own you can get them all to match.
[quoted image]
This is where I bought some years ago. I used the one on the top of the page and then printed photos like the flyers from the Internet Pinball Database.
https://www.picturasupply.com/photo-novelties-catalog/clear-plastic-snap-in-photo-key-chains.html
Quoted from Freeplay40:This is where I bought some years ago. I used the one on the top of the page and then printed photos like the flyers from the Internet Pinball Database.
https://www.picturasupply.com/photo-novelties-catalog/clear-plastic-snap-in-photo-key-chains.html
Yep, I bought a bag of those as well when I started collecting pins! When I get a new pin I find a good "representation" of the title that I then photoshop and install into the key "tag". When I sell a pin I keep it's tag as a memento. I said I'd stop buying pins when the bag of tags was empty.
I'm about to buy a new bag.
Quoted from Bax1:Question about led flashers. You have to add a diode to this game to add flashers right?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/removing-warming-resistors
Quoted from Bax1:Thank you. So looking under the playfield I see 7 resistor boards? Also counting the bulbs there are 8 in the radar section, 4 in the red covers, and 2 back behind the ramp. Am I missing any?
There are 4 in the back box.
Quoted from Bax1:Thank you. So looking under the playfield I see 7 resistor boards? Also counting the bulbs there are 8 in the radar section, 4 in the red covers, and 2 back behind the ramp. Am I missing any?
Quoted from GRUMPY:There are 4 in the back box.
And two boards in the back making a total of 9 resistor boards
Quoted from Bax1:Hope to take the ground off on each board then put in leds.
If there are 2 grounds on the board, you need to keep them together when you remove them from the board.
Quoted from Bax1:If 2 grounds remove them both.
Yes, but keep both wires twisted together with a wire nut.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Yes, but keep both wires twisted together with a wire nut.
Right on. Thank you for the info. Wouldn’t have thought to do that
Finishing up a hardtop install on my high speed and I have a couple questions (1) Any advice on the 3rd flipper setup angle. I've tried it with the flipper rubber flush against the rail behind it, and now have it set up of the rail a little bit. (2) I get random fires from the ramp diverter sometimes when the ball is in the pops. Is this normal?
PXL_20201224_132201200 (resized).jpgPXL_20201224_132209695 (resized).jpgI prefer the upper flipper all the way back, personally. Ymmv, of course. Make sure your ramp leafs aren't too close.. but also not too far away... ugh, I hate those damn things. I have a MRS switch to install on mine at some point.
Yours is looking good!
I toggled with the notion of getting rid of my HS in 2021 because I felt like it was a bit redundant next to Getaway but I'm passing my Pinbot to a friend instead..HS is coming back home. I miss it!
Quoted from Bax1:This one has the black ground plus another colored wire.
If you look very careful you will see that they are not connected at the same spot on the terminal board.
Take both off and keep them together and put on a wire nut for insulation. Most likely Williams ran out of black wire towards the end of the day.
One of those Black wires goes to the Kickback solenoid relay. See if there is a brown wire on your relay.
There seemed to be a lot of wire substitution at Williams. While restoring my HS I ran across at least 5 instances where wire color was substituted.
So that pic was from my spare playfield that I have been looking over for references before I do it. the one in the game are both black wires and one does go to the relay. So I am guessing that both removed but wire nut together
After I installed LED flashers they stayed on until I just cut one side of the 330 ohm. (Warming resistor) Hope this helps or check out the link below. http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flasher-problemquestion-system-11. I would take Grumpy's advise, he knows HS.
I posted a separate thread about flipper coils.... In case anyone missed it but monitors this thread, I'd appreciate input. I'm looking to replace a flipper coil, but my High Speed is using 3 different coils.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-flipper-coils
Thanks...
-- M
Quoted from MikeVarney:I posted a separate thread about flipper coils.... In case anyone missed it but monitors this thread, I'd appreciate input. I'm looking to replace a flipper coil, but my High Speed is using 3 different coils.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-flipper-coils
Thanks...
-- M
Manual calls for FL23/600-30/2600 for all 3. Replacement from Marco website is SFL-23-600/30-2600. Not sure the significance of the dashes vs slashes. Probably none.
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