I've found (if you don't want to wait to find the right lock "tab", that it's easiest just to bend or tweak the tab with some pliers to get the snug fit.

After some hunting, it looks like it's just a flasher housing; no cover:
http://www.theteardown.com/gallery/details.php?image_id=646

You have it upside down.

If I'm looking at it correctly I have a flasher there.

Yes a flasher socket goes there.

PG_TopLeft (resized).JPG

I want to add under cab led lighting that is 12vdc. Is there anywhere in the cabinet that I can tap into 12v, or do I need to go straight to the power supply board to get 12v?

Do you want this lighting to be interactive with game play or constantly on?

Constantly on.

Then power it from a separate 12 volt power supply like this.

ebay.com link: AC 100 240V to DC 12V 2A Power Supply Adapter Heavy Duty LED Light Strip 24W SMD

You mean the rounded part should face 12:00 and not 6:00 when open? The lock turns counter clockwise to unlock. That would make the rounded part point towards the middle of the door, not the frame on the outside if I understand you. Did the original lock turn clockwise? That would also help my backbox lock.

Still face 6:00, but reversed.

Thank you Grumpy. I'm assuming you were thinking of plugging it into the service outlet? I was hoping to find a solution where I wouldn't have to plug/unplug it after I am done playing.

I have moved the power wire for the service outlet to the switched side power. So I do leave mine plugged in permanently. I have done this to all my machines in the game room. Looks nice when they are all on.

That makes sense. I can do that. Thank you!

Had a strange issue pop up out of nowhere. The knocker works fine in test mode but not in game play. It worked correctly a couple of days ago but now it doesn't. I didn't do any work on the machine lately. Any ideas?

Is the knocker on a fuse? Coil dead? Coil sleeve worn? Transistor dead?

Coil and sleeve are new. I just watched it operate during test mode and it worked smoothly. If the fuse was blown or the transistor was bad I would think that it wouldn’t work at all? Everything else in the game is 100%.

This one has me stumped. I know it doesn’t affect gameplay but it’s just cool and should work.

Failing components act weird, all I am going to say.

What do you have set for adjustments 08 and 50?

So when I went to check this, 08 Match feature is on and 50 Sw alarm knocker is set to yes. Funny thing is that special was set to “credit”. I changed this to “ball” and for whatever reason, the knocker started working again during gameplay!

You always have the magic touch Grumpy, thanks man!

Happy Turkey day.

Playball!!

I need some help with this problem. Half way through second game, pops and slings stop working. I turn the machine off then back on and they work for about 2 minutes. Put machine in diagnostic mode and pops and slings work. Start a new game, they don't.

Any help is appreciated.....................

I would remove the power supply from the back box and check for a cracked header pin solder joint on the large top connector.

Check this pin for a cracked header pin.

hsps (resized).PNG

OK I will check that also. It will be a couple of days. Gotta get a needle in my back tomorrow so I will be sidelined.

Has anyone powder coated the the wire ramp rails? Looking at the machine and thought they could look nice in a candy red with that red ramp mod.

I thought about powdercoating them but opted to just leave them be. I don't remember my reasoning, maybe my powder guy threw out a price I didn't like, or maybe he just didn't want to do the detail work.. I don't remember. I thought candy red would have looked awesome, also.

Oh... I'm sure the price would be a determining factor... just think it would look great.

100% agree. I'm still waffling on what to do with my HS at this point (due to me having picked up Getaway, and the fact that I want a Tron), but it's on loan so there's really no pressure to do much of anything right now. I'd have loved to have done the candy red wireforms though! We think very much alike on that mod.

If I do it I will definitely post pics so you can live vicariously through me! haha

Please do!

Decided to bite the bullet and do the LED conversion. I had a few of the incadescents burnt out... or so I thought. It seems that when I put in the new bulbs they are still burnt out. Is it more likely that I need to clean the sockets... or replace them all together? First time encountering this.

https://homepinballrepair.com/repair-pinball-lamp-sockets/

Give this a try first. It's only a few random sockets? Have you checked the lamp matrix to see if it's one common row/column? That should help you to verify on the board that nothing is noticeably burned or cold soldered.

In case you don't have it handy already.

High Speed Lamp Matrix (resized).JPG

Can anyone confirm that flipper EOS caps are not necessary assuming you're using series wound flippers? Any benefit to using them if not? Doing a playfield swap and it had them installed on the two lower but not the uppers. Thanks!

Not needed for series wound.

Looks like they are all in different ones.
Will try that link you mentioned.

Let me know how it works out!

Check the solder on the tabs too, make sure it isn't a hot mess.

Can anyone confirm the flipper coil stops are supposed to be A-10821 which are .330"?

I have ordered flipper coil stops from Marco and Pinball life and they are .370", and it's really confusing me..

When I needed to figure out replacements, A-10821 is what I concluded were the correct ones as well.

I've had a recent problem with my High Speed that makes it unplayable.

During a game I was playing, the score display went blank but the GI stayed on, and the entire game went dead, but the sound effects were still working; it just continued with the music track.

I turned the game off and back on, all of the displays read zeros and you could hear random sound effects, and it doesn't respond when you try to start a game.

I haven't read of this happening in another System 11 and I haven't the slightest idea where to start looking for a problem. Any ideas?

Check the output of the power supply.

I had a similar problem and it was the 14 or 15 pin connector at the top of the power supply board. The pins were not connecting properly. I just adjusted the connection a little and put some electrical tape on the wires to keep pressure on the connectors. I know....I know....Lousy fix - But I just know if I remove the power supply board and resolder the pins I will create all kinds of new issues.

Now for my issue of the night. My flipper switches are pretty worn out but the flippers still work pretty good. I would like to replace the flipper leaf switches but the flipper switches have capacitors connected to them to reduce the sparking. I could order the switches and the capacitors and solder everything but I would rather buy the switches with the capacitors on them. My question(s) is/are: Do I really need these capacitors if the game is being used for maybe 100 games/week. If I need or should have the capacitors does anyone know where I can buy the leaf switches with the capacitors attached? Thanks.

Off hand I do not know where you can buy the two preassembled.

I would recommend installing the caps as it does lengthen the lifespan of the eos switches. The switches will pit slower since there is less arcing.

A tip that can help you is to take the legs of the cap and put them through the eyelet and bend them over so it stays in place. Then you can solder the wires from the flipper to the switch while the capacitor stays in place.

Hoping someone can verify two connections for me that aren’t labeled in the backbox. I just did a playfield swap that the head was removed from before me working it and these two 4 pin non keyed connectors.

One is for the speakers. Two in question are the 1J15 and 1J13.

2D3173A6-87FD-497F-9157-5674BFA8FFF8 (resized).jpeg

EB82B4A0-9D4F-4711-96B1-952CD0D03EB9 (resized).jpeg

54721040-2035-4CF7-A5FD-15ACBE5637F7 (resized).jpeg

E8EAD330-9E1F-4066-9A2E-43B57A4A13A2 (resized).jpeg

I'm almost positive that there is a jumper cables from the mpu to the background sound board that connects the two. I can't get at my high speed right now to verify that.

Speakers wires go to 1J15. Solenoid ground wires go to 1J13.

Thank you so much!