(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.


By lordloss

7 years ago



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  • 4,244 posts
  • 354 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 41 minutes ago by GRUMPY
  • Topic is favorited by 171 Pinsiders

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There are 4244 posts in this topic. You are on page 81 of 85.
#4001 62 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

So I bought new locks and a coin door cam from Pin Life. They did not have the bars for the coin door. Cam does not hold tight against door frame, coin door can open about 1/2". Does this look like correct cam for coin door? Also turns open on it's own if you leave key in. Back box lock works but is tight. I think it turns opposite direction from original as it hits ground cable.
[quoted image]

I've found (if you don't want to wait to find the right lock "tab", that it's easiest just to bend or tweak the tab with some pliers to get the snug fit.

#4002 62 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Hoping someone in the club can help. I'm swapping out a playfield and found this wire nut and an associated wire. Believing it's a flasher but not finding any pics. Does anyone know or can verify?
Or is it a wire break that was pulled through the playfield and through a hole in the plastic? That seems pretty unlikely.
[quoted image]

After some hunting, it looks like it's just a flasher housing; no cover:
http://www.theteardown.com/gallery/details.php?image_id=646

#4003 62 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

So I bought new locks and a coin door cam from Pin Life. They did not have the bars for the coin door. Cam does not hold tight against door frame, coin door can open about 1/2". Does this look like correct cam for coin door? Also turns open on it's own if you leave key in. Back box lock works but is tight. I think it turns opposite direction from original as it hits ground cable.
[quoted image]

You have it upside down.

#4004 62 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Hoping someone in the club can help. I'm swapping out a playfield and found this wire nut and an associated wire. Believing it's a flasher but not finding any pics. Does anyone know or can verify?
Or is it a wire break that was pulled through the playfield and through a hole in the plastic? That seems pretty unlikely.
[quoted image]

If I'm looking at it correctly I have a flasher there.

#4005 62 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Hoping someone in the club can help. I'm swapping out a playfield and found this wire nut and an associated wire. Believing it's a flasher but not finding any pics. Does anyone know or can verify?
Or is it a wire break that was pulled through the playfield and through a hole in the plastic? That seems pretty unlikely.
[quoted image]

Yes a flasher socket goes there.

PG_TopLeft (resized).JPG
#4006 61 days ago

I want to add under cab led lighting that is 12vdc. Is there anywhere in the cabinet that I can tap into 12v, or do I need to go straight to the power supply board to get 12v?

#4007 61 days ago
Quoted from finman2000:

I want to add under cab led lighting that is 12vdc.

Do you want this lighting to be interactive with game play or constantly on?

#4008 61 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Do you want this lighting to be interactive with game play or constantly on?

Constantly on.

#4009 61 days ago
#4010 61 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

You have it upside down.

You mean the rounded part should face 12:00 and not 6:00 when open? The lock turns counter clockwise to unlock. That would make the rounded part point towards the middle of the door, not the frame on the outside if I understand you. Did the original lock turn clockwise? That would also help my backbox lock.

#4011 61 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

You mean the rounded part should face 12:00 and not 6:00 when open?

Still face 6:00, but reversed.

#4012 61 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Then power it from a separate 12 volt power supply like this.
ebay.com link » Ac 100 240v To Dc 12v 2a Power Supply Adapter Heavy Duty Led Light Strip 24w Smd

Thank you Grumpy. I'm assuming you were thinking of plugging it into the service outlet? I was hoping to find a solution where I wouldn't have to plug/unplug it after I am done playing.

#4013 61 days ago
Quoted from finman2000:

I was hoping to find a solution where I wouldn't have to plug/unplug it after I am done playing.

I have moved the power wire for the service outlet to the switched side power. So I do leave mine plugged in permanently. I have done this to all my machines in the game room. Looks nice when they are all on.

#4014 61 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I have moved the power wire for the service outlet to the switched side power. So I do leave mine plugged in permanently. I have done this to all my machines in the game room. Looks nice when they are all on.

That makes sense. I can do that. Thank you!

#4015 59 days ago

Had a strange issue pop up out of nowhere. The knocker works fine in test mode but not in game play. It worked correctly a couple of days ago but now it doesn't. I didn't do any work on the machine lately. Any ideas?

#4016 59 days ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

Had a strange issue pop up out of nowhere. The knocker works fine in test mode but not in game play. It worked correctly a couple of days ago but now it doesn't. I didn't do any work on the machine lately. Any ideas?

Is the knocker on a fuse? Coil dead? Coil sleeve worn? Transistor dead?

#4017 59 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Is the knocker on a fuse? Coil dead? Coil sleeve worn? Transistor dead?

Coil and sleeve are new. I just watched it operate during test mode and it worked smoothly. If the fuse was blown or the transistor was bad I would think that it wouldn’t work at all? Everything else in the game is 100%.

This one has me stumped. I know it doesn’t affect gameplay but it’s just cool and should work.

#4018 59 days ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

Coil and sleeve are new. I just watched it operate during test mode and it worked smoothly. If the fuse was blown or the transistor was bad I would think that it wouldn’t work at all? Everything else in the game is 100%.
This one has me stumped. I know it doesn’t affect gameplay but it’s just cool and should work.

Failing components act weird, all I am going to say.

#4019 59 days ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

This one has me stumped.

What do you have set for adjustments 08 and 50?

#4020 58 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

What do you have set for adjustments 08 and 50?

So when I went to check this, 08 Match feature is on and 50 Sw alarm knocker is set to yes. Funny thing is that special was set to “credit”. I changed this to “ball” and for whatever reason, the knocker started working again during gameplay!

You always have the magic touch Grumpy, thanks man!

#4021 58 days ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

the knocker started working again during gameplay!

Happy Turkey day.

Playball!!

#4022 55 days ago

I need some help with this problem. Half way through second game, pops and slings stop working. I turn the machine off then back on and they work for about 2 minutes. Put machine in diagnostic mode and pops and slings work. Start a new game, they don't.

Any help is appreciated.....................

#4023 55 days ago
Quoted from rwarren28806:

Any help is appreciated.....................

I would remove the power supply from the back box and check for a cracked header pin solder joint on the large top connector.

#4024 55 days ago
Quoted from rwarren28806:

Put machine in diagnostic mode and pops and slings work. Start a new game, they don't.

Check this pin for a cracked header pin.

hsps (resized).PNG
#4025 55 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Check this pin for a cracked header pin.
[quoted image]

OK I will check that also. It will be a couple of days. Gotta get a needle in my back tomorrow so I will be sidelined.

#4026 53 days ago

Has anyone powder coated the the wire ramp rails? Looking at the machine and thought they could look nice in a candy red with that red ramp mod.

#4027 53 days ago

I thought about powdercoating them but opted to just leave them be. I don't remember my reasoning, maybe my powder guy threw out a price I didn't like, or maybe he just didn't want to do the detail work.. I don't remember. I thought candy red would have looked awesome, also.

#4028 53 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

I thought about powdercoating them but opted to just leave them be. I don't remember my reasoning, maybe my powder guy threw out a price I didn't like, or maybe he just didn't want to do the detail work.. I don't remember. I thought candy red would have looked awesome, also.

Oh... I'm sure the price would be a determining factor... just think it would look great.

#4029 53 days ago
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

Oh... I'm sure the price would be a determining factor... just think it would look great.

100% agree. I'm still waffling on what to do with my HS at this point (due to me having picked up Getaway, and the fact that I want a Tron), but it's on loan so there's really no pressure to do much of anything right now. I'd have loved to have done the candy red wireforms though! We think very much alike on that mod.

#4030 53 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

100% agree. I'm still waffling on what to do with my HS at this point (due to me having picked up Getaway, and the fact that I want a Tron), but it's on loan so there's really no pressure to do much of anything right now. I'd have loved to have done the candy red wireforms though! We think very much alike on that mod.

If I do it I will definitely post pics so you can live vicariously through me! haha

#4031 53 days ago
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

If I do it I will definitely post pics so you can live vicariously through me! haha

Please do!

#4032 51 days ago

Decided to bite the bullet and do the LED conversion. I had a few of the incadescents burnt out... or so I thought. It seems that when I put in the new bulbs they are still burnt out. Is it more likely that I need to clean the sockets... or replace them all together? First time encountering this.

#4033 51 days ago

https://homepinballrepair.com/repair-pinball-lamp-sockets/

Give this a try first. It's only a few random sockets? Have you checked the lamp matrix to see if it's one common row/column? That should help you to verify on the board that nothing is noticeably burned or cold soldered.

#4034 51 days ago

In case you don't have it handy already.

High Speed Lamp Matrix (resized).JPG
#4035 51 days ago

Can anyone confirm that flipper EOS caps are not necessary assuming you're using series wound flippers? Any benefit to using them if not? Doing a playfield swap and it had them installed on the two lower but not the uppers. Thanks!

#4036 51 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Can anyone confirm that flipper EOS caps are not necessary assuming you're using series wound flippers?

Not needed for series wound.

#4037 51 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

In case you don't have it handy already.
[quoted image]

Looks like they are all in different ones.
Will try that link you mentioned.

#4038 51 days ago

Let me know how it works out!

Check the solder on the tabs too, make sure it isn't a hot mess.

#4039 51 days ago

Can anyone confirm the flipper coil stops are supposed to be A-10821 which are .330"?

I have ordered flipper coil stops from Marco and Pinball life and they are .370", and it's really confusing me..

#4040 51 days ago
Quoted from MrExtrm:

Can anyone confirm the flipper coil stops are supposed to be A-10821 which are .330"?
I have ordered flipper coil stops from Marco and Pinball life and they are .370", and it's really confusing me..

When I needed to figure out replacements, A-10821 is what I concluded were the correct ones as well.

#4041 48 days ago

I've had a recent problem with my High Speed that makes it unplayable.

During a game I was playing, the score display went blank but the GI stayed on, and the entire game went dead, but the sound effects were still working; it just continued with the music track.

I turned the game off and back on, all of the displays read zeros and you could hear random sound effects, and it doesn't respond when you try to start a game.

I haven't read of this happening in another System 11 and I haven't the slightest idea where to start looking for a problem. Any ideas?

#4042 47 days ago

Check the output of the power supply.

#4043 47 days ago

I had a similar problem and it was the 14 or 15 pin connector at the top of the power supply board. The pins were not connecting properly. I just adjusted the connection a little and put some electrical tape on the wires to keep pressure on the connectors. I know....I know....Lousy fix - But I just know if I remove the power supply board and resolder the pins I will create all kinds of new issues.

#4044 47 days ago

Now for my issue of the night. My flipper switches are pretty worn out but the flippers still work pretty good. I would like to replace the flipper leaf switches but the flipper switches have capacitors connected to them to reduce the sparking. I could order the switches and the capacitors and solder everything but I would rather buy the switches with the capacitors on them. My question(s) is/are: Do I really need these capacitors if the game is being used for maybe 100 games/week. If I need or should have the capacitors does anyone know where I can buy the leaf switches with the capacitors attached? Thanks.

#4045 46 days ago
Quoted from The_Great_Man:

Now for my issue of the night. My flipper switches are pretty worn out but the flippers still work pretty good. I would like to replace the flipper leaf switches but the flipper switches have capacitors connected to them to reduce the sparking. I could order the switches and the capacitors and solder everything but I would rather buy the switches with the capacitors on them. My question(s) is/are: Do I really need these capacitors if the game is being used for maybe 100 games/week. If I need or should have the capacitors does anyone know where I can buy the leaf switches with the capacitors attached? Thanks.

Off hand I do not know where you can buy the two preassembled.

I would recommend installing the caps as it does lengthen the lifespan of the eos switches. The switches will pit slower since there is less arcing.

A tip that can help you is to take the legs of the cap and put them through the eyelet and bend them over so it stays in place. Then you can solder the wires from the flipper to the switch while the capacitor stays in place.

#4046 46 days ago

Hello guys,

I am looking for an alphanumeric display for my High Speed project. New or used.
Any one got one that he would like to sell or knows where I can find one?
Preferably in Europe region.

#4047 43 days ago

Hoping someone can verify two connections for me that aren’t labeled in the backbox. I just did a playfield swap that the head was removed from before me working it and these two 4 pin non keyed connectors.

One is for the speakers. Two in question are the 1J15 and 1J13.

2D3173A6-87FD-497F-9157-5674BFA8FFF8 (resized).jpegEB82B4A0-9D4F-4711-96B1-952CD0D03EB9 (resized).jpeg54721040-2035-4CF7-A5FD-15ACBE5637F7 (resized).jpegE8EAD330-9E1F-4066-9A2E-43B57A4A13A2 (resized).jpeg
#4048 43 days ago

I'm almost positive that there is a jumper cables from the mpu to the background sound board that connects the two. I can't get at my high speed right now to verify that.

#4049 43 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

One is for the speakers. Two in question are the 1J15 and 1J13.

Speakers wires go to 1J15. Solenoid ground wires go to 1J13.

#4050 43 days ago

Thank you so much!

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