(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.


By lordloss

7 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by GRUMPY
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#3951 70 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

The typical thing a lot of people do is install a cliffy.

Hmmm... cheap fix if they work! Wonder if I would put this after doing the hard top though.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/hspeed.htm

#3952 70 days ago

I asked cliff this very question. Ultimately I decided not to do it at all.

Screenshot_20201109-105322_Gmail (resized).jpg
#3953 70 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

I asked cliff this very question. Ultimately I decided not to do it at all.
[quoted image]

Good to know!!

#3954 69 days ago
20201108_202740 (resized).jpg20201108_190708 (resized).jpg20201108_190704 (resized).jpg20201108_190656 (resized).jpg
#3955 68 days ago

So I guess I am officially an led convert even for a great traditional High Speed game. Tried a few flex head led's by Comet (Thanks Killborn) and they are pretty neat. Put them anyplace there was a light that flashed into my eyes (under the slingshot, next to the San Diego Freeway sign) and they work great. Put one to the left of the SD Freeway sign and it lights up the hole kickout area real good. I suggest HS owners give them a try. They really light up the game.

#3956 68 days ago

Can someone please measure or even scan this metal piece. Is it a flat piece? Mine is missing. Looks like just 2 screws to remove it and I need it in order to install the sign mod Thanks!

fgdgdfgg (resized).jpg
#3957 68 days ago
Quoted from The_Great_Man:

While I am at it and abusing your knowledge of my HS game - I have this "thing" under my Playfield. It is located next to the Coil for the upper right flipper. It appears to have been added at some point since it has the heat shrink around the wires. it is connected to the coil for the flipper and is covered in this white rubbery substance that I assume holds it in place. I have never had a problem with this right upper flipper so I am reluctant to touch it. Does anyone know what this is and does it look like it is correct? Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image]

That is a spark superset capacitor for the E.O.S. switch.
Williams would later modify the E.O.S. bracket to make room for the capacitor.
I personally, have hot glued the capacitor to the flipper coil its self.

#3958 67 days ago

Padawan leaner seeks Jedi Master wise in the ways of hideout switch adjustment.
I have not witnessed it but my son tells me the left hand hideout solenoid goes into random machine gun mode. Diagnostics say it is switches 39 and 40. I've searched and seen several mentions of adjusting them, but actual explanation of how. Can anyone shed some light on the process please? Also saw someone say to just replace them due to age and use.

#3959 67 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

Padawan leaner seeks Jedi Master wise in the ways of hideout switch adjustment.
I have not witnessed it but my son tells me the left hand hideout solenoid goes into random machine gun mode. Diagnostics say it is switches 39 and 40. I've searched and seen several mentions of adjusting them, but actual explanation of how. Can anyone shed some light on the process please? Also saw someone say to just replace them due to age and use.

1) put game in switch test.
1a) manually test each switch...
Q: do switches read when activated?
yes? go to 1b) no, go to 2a)
1b) yes, switches activate by hand.
1c) place one ball into left kickout.
Q: does ball activate switch No. 40?
yes, go to 1d) no, go to 2b)
1d) place second ball into left kickout.
Q: does balls activate switch No. 40 & 39?
yes, go to 1e) no, go to 2c)
1e) games reads switches... could be stuck closed/wont open might have to replace switches.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2a) check for broken strobe wires on switch matrix/ bad diodes...
2b) adjust micro switch by loosening mounting screws... brackets... tell switch reads with ball
---- in play... retighten mounting screws to micro switch.
2c) remove left wire form and remove plastic piece that covers access to side micro switch.
2c*) loosen micro switch mounting screws, adjust micro switch to read when two balls are
---- present. No.40 & No. 39 should read. retighten mini micro switch mounting screws.
2c**) reassemble removed parts. test play game... all good, finish reassembly of game...
------ and carry on.

#3960 67 days ago

One more for tonight. First picture is of the inside of my Laser Ball cabinet. There is a "bar"? that the lock cam engages to hold the door closed. Second picture is my HS. That piece is missing.
First question is-What is that piece called?
Second-Is it the same piece that is missing from HS or is it somehow different?

20201111_212035 (resized).jpg20201111_212101 (resized).jpg
#3961 67 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

One more for tonight. First picture is of the inside of my Laser Ball cabinet. There is a "bar"? that the lock cam engages to hold the door closed. Second picture is my HS. That piece is missing.
First question is-What is that piece called?
Second-Is it the same piece that is missing from HS or is it somehow different?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Two different coin door designs.
High Speed has the ALL-In-One door design.
High Speed has a cam that is "T" shaped...OEM Contained two long flat bars that interlocked
with the came and fitted into slots at the top and bottom of the coin door.
The door thus has "Three point of contact".
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Laser Ball cabinet......
OEM Williams cabinet design. coin door had a large angle bracket that was fasten buy the
cam lock bolt.
1) Williams coin door bracket #01-6249
2) Williams cam #01-3574-2
3)Williams cam lock cabinet bracket #01-3524-1

#3962 67 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Two different coin door designs.
High Speed has the ALL-In-One door design.
High Speed has a cam that is "T" shaped...OEM Contained two long flat bars that interlocked
with the came and fitted into slots at the top and bottom of the coin door.
The door thus has "Three point of contact".
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Laser Ball cabinet......
OEM Williams cabinet design. coin door had a large angle bracket that was fasten buy the
cam lock bolt.
1) Williams coin door bracket #01-6249
2) Williams cam #01-3574-2
3)Williams cam lock cabinet bracket #01-3524-1

That would explain it. I suspect the original door lock may have been drilled out possibly. It has a newer lock in it with a cam like the Laser Ball has. It does not close securely. There is an original style key in the head box that doesn't appear to unlock it. I think that maybe was the door key? Did these come with a single key to open both locks or one key for each?

#3963 67 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

It does not close securely.

I assume High Speed.
The OEM "T" came is made to be offset.
OEM in the box games had two different keys.
1) one for the coin door made by fortlocks of Illinois
2) one for the back box... as above.
Wico had several different after market cam designs to fit different locks.
Wiliams door cams (resized).jpg

#3964 66 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I assume High Speed.
The OEM "T" came is made to be offset.
OEM in the box games had two different keys.
1) one for the coin door made by fortlocks of Illinois
2) one for the back box... as above.
Wico had several different after market cam designs to fit different locks.
[quoted image]

Think it was Marcos where I saw the t cam but the arms are out of stock.

#3965 66 days ago

Tonight's questions, if I may. Can anyone provide a picture that shows what the missing piece in my picture looks like? The one on the end of the metal bar above the kicker.
Game says hold flipper button for status. Can anyone enlighten me as to how this works or what status it is supposed to show me? Nothing happens that I can tell when holding the button. Is this supposed to tell you sometj8ng during play or in game over mode?

20201111_194017 (resized).jpg
#3966 66 days ago

Apologies for the bad picture, it's the best I could do with my high speed not here. There should be a metal housing with a screw through it.

Screenshot_20201112-210311_Gallery (resized).jpg
#3967 66 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

Can anyone enlighten me as to how this works or what status it is supposed to show me?

The flippers have "Lane-Change" EOS switches.
When you hold a flipper for x amount of time the game gives a list of stats.
Bonus level, High scores, Extra balls, Bonus hold... etc.
It is a quick way to figure out what needs to be done to get High Scores/Replays.
This is the first game that has automatic adjustable replay levels.

#3968 66 days ago

My High Speed has been running pretty good lately. The only problem is the top playfield flashers were not working. Put in all new bulbs - Still not working. Went under the playfield and found these 2 resistors? under the ramp entrance. The resistor on the left had its top connection loose so I soldered it back on. Can not start game - kids sleeping. Does this picture look right and could this fix my flashers problem? Thanks.

1DBF9B5D-268A-47C1-9A80-266AE805B8F2 (resized).jpeg
#3969 66 days ago
Quoted from The_Great_Man:

My High Speed has been running pretty good lately. The only problem is the top playfield flashers were not working. Put in all new bulbs - Still not working. Went under the playfield and found these 2 resistors? under the ramp entrance. The resistor on the left had its top connection loose so I soldered it back on. Can not start game - kids sleeping. Does this picture look right and could this fix my flashers problem? Thanks.
[quoted image]

Yes, That is the resistor set for the upper playfield flasher bulbs. Bulbs are in series so if one goes out neither will work. You replaced both so that possibility should be eliminated.

#3970 66 days ago
Quoted from The_Great_Man:

The resistor on the left had its top connection loose so I soldered it back on. Can not start game - kids sleeping. Does this picture look right and could this fix my flashers problem? Thanks.

Yes, but if you are running led flashers you will need to disconnect the smaller resistor to keep the flashers from being stuck on at power up.

#3971 66 days ago

Can someone provide a link for the warning sticker mod under the ramp.

#3972 66 days ago

I think Mr. Tantrum has it in the Market under High Speed Freeplay40 Ramp Road Decal Set.

#3973 66 days ago
Quoted from The_Great_Man:

My High Speed has been running pretty good lately. The only problem is the top playfield flashers were not working. Put in all new bulbs - Still not working. Went under the playfield and found these 2 resistors? under the ramp entrance. The resistor on the left had its top connection loose so I soldered it back on. Can not start game - kids sleeping. Does this picture look right and could this fix my flashers problem? Thanks.
[quoted image]

going to check my friends HS in an hour actually to look at this exact same problem. both flashers not working. are you using 89's? i read they are supposed to be 63s so im bringing some 63s with me and see if that fixes it and ill check those resistors when im there too!

#3974 66 days ago
Quoted from atariaction:

Can someone please measure or even scan this metal piece. Is it a flat piece? Mine is missing. Looks like just 2 screws to remove it and I need it in order to install the sign mod Thanks![quoted image]

incase anyone needs!

hs-1 (resized).jpghs-2 (resized).jpghs-3 (002) (resized).jpg
#3975 66 days ago

I switched to 63’s for the flashers. Game had 89’s in it and I can not tell the difference. Thanks Grumpy and Pin-Pilot for the help. All flashers are working...for now.

#3976 66 days ago
Quoted from atariaction:

going to check my friends HS in an hour actually to look at this exact same problem. both flashers not working. are you using 89's? i read they are supposed to be 63s so im bringing some 63s with me and see if that fixes it and ill check those resistors when im there too!

OEM are #63 in series.
However, some High Speeds have been modified for #89 in parallel.
For correct use of #89 bulbs, circuit has to be modified.

Some operators/flippers use some kind of mix of #63/89 combo,
without modifying the circuit.

#3977 65 days ago

Have some back box questions tonight.
First one is the back glass. Mine has wrinkle/bubbles. Is this something that is fixable? Or should I be looking for new vinyl or a new back glass?
Seller told me it has a remote nvram. Actually looked at it the other day and it is a remote battery holder and the batteries have magic marker on them that says Oct 2018. My other pin has an nvram chip on the board. Did some searching but not finding what I need to add an nvram chip. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Red light on top works fine but seems to make a clickey noise. Is this normal or should it be more quiet?
Last one...1 and 2 player displays seem to have "ghosting?" Top center bits of each digit seems to always show when not used. 3 and 4 seem fine. Is this a display issue or something else? Saw those xpin colored displays. Most were out of stock but the different colors were pretty nice lo9king.

20201114_113241 (resized).jpg20201114_113426 (resized).jpg
#3978 64 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

Have some back box questions tonight.
First one is the back glass. Mine has wrinkle/bubbles. Is this something that is fixable? Or should I be looking for new vinyl or a new back glass?
Seller told me it has a remote nvram. Actually looked at it the other day and it is a remote battery holder and the batteries have magic marker on them that says Oct 2018. My other pin has an nvram chip on the board. Did some searching but not finding what I need to add an nvram chip. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Red light on top works fine but seems to make a clickey noise. Is this normal or should it be more quiet?
Last one...1 and 2 player displays seem to have "ghosting?" Top center bits of each digit seems to always show when not used. 3 and 4 seem fine. Is this a display issue or something else? Saw those xpin colored displays. Most were out of stock but the different colors were pretty nice lo9king.
[quoted image][quoted image]

1) Back glass Answer: No! Your Back glass was in a humid environment...
-- glass expanded, stretched the inks, glass shrunk back down after environment was subsided.
-- most likely next to the clothes dryer.
2) Nvram are advertised here on Pinside all the times.
--- check the shops on Pinside.
3) "1 and 2 player displays seem to have "ghosting?" Answer: cathodic poisoning, end-of-life.
--- degraded ic chips that drive the segments. Time to replace Alpha-numeric display/ic drivers.
--- Or, check power supply for clean +100 volts & clean -100 volts.

#3979 64 days ago

I don't think there us anything you can do with the backglass other than live with it or replace. CPR offer a repro. Why you would bother with such an awful glass is another matter. I absolutely love the pin but that backglass - jeez!

To fit an nvram means unsoldering the 6116 on the CPU and fitting the nvram board. Not a big job if you have the soldering skills.

Does the beacon make a clicky noise as it rotates? Can't remember mine doing that. Is something catching somewhere or is it like a relay click?

#3980 62 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Apologies for the bad picture, it's the best I could do with my high speed not here. There should be a metal housing with a screw through it.
[quoted image]

Anyone happen to have a proper name or even part number for this? No luck finding one so far.

#3981 62 days ago
Quoted from Andy_B:

I don't think there us anything you can do with the backglass other than live with it or replace. CPR offer a repro. Why you would bother with such an awful glass is another matter. I absolutely love the pin but that backglass - jeez!
To fit an nvram means unsoldering the 6116 on the CPU and fitting the nvram board. Not a big job if you have the soldering skills.
Does the beacon make a clicky noise as it rotates? Can't remember mine doing that. Is something catching somewhere or is it like a relay click?

Possibly a relay click but I put my finger on the relay as it was going but it didn't seem like I could feel anything.

Andy- You don't like the back glass in general, you don't like mine, or you don't like the repro?

#3982 62 days ago

Shooter question:
I find that the shooter does not do a good job sending the ball up and around the ramp.

Pulling the shooter rod all the way back results in the ball looping around to the right upper flipper. The ball hits the ramp by the right hideout and bounces off there either resulting of making it around or go into the right hideout. Sometimes the ball doesn't make it fully up the ramp.

I have replaced the springs (the barrel spring and the red inner spring), washers and the sleeve. I have been messing around with the the adjustment on the ball guide under the don't drink and drive plastic.
I to aligned the shooter rod to hit close to the center of the ball as the adjustment allows so there is no spin on the ball.

Does anyone have any suggestions on where the ball should be entering the ramp? i.e: lower, middle or at the top?
Or did I get a weak red spring?

#3983 62 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

Anyone happen to have a proper name or even part number for this? No luck finding one so far.

I took out my standoff/post and measured it. It is 1/2" long with an od of 3/16" and an id of 1/8"
standoffstandoff
The accompanying screw should be a #5x7/8" wood screw#5x7/8" wood screw#5x7/8" wood screw#5x7/8" wood screw w/ standoff

#3984 62 days ago
Quoted from pinflip_:

I took out my standoff/post and measured it. It is 1/2" long with an od of 3/16" and an id of 1/8"
[quoted image][quoted image]
The accompanying screw should be a #5x7/8" wood screw[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Note: Support Post #02-4020
http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=HWR71
http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=HWR71SET

#3985 62 days ago

Thank You Pinflip and Vec-tor! Will put in an order tonight.

Another question-For anyone illuminating the star roll overs, saucer, and flipper buttons-which lamp sockets are you using? I see many different types and not sure what style I should get. Diodes or no diodes? Planning on using LEDS.

#3986 62 days ago

.

#3987 62 days ago
Quoted from pinflip_:

Shooter question:
I find that the shooter does not do a good job sending the ball up and around the ramp.
Pulling the shooter rod all the way back results in the ball looping around to the right upper flipper. The ball hits the ramp by the right hideout and bounces off there either resulting of making it around or go into the right hideout. Sometimes the ball doesn't make it fully up the ramp.
I have replaced the springs (the barrel spring and the red inner spring), washers and the sleeve. I have been messing around with the the adjustment on the ball guide under the don't drink and drive plastic.
I to aligned the shooter rod to hit close to the center of the ball as the adjustment allows so there is no spin on the ball.
Does anyone have any suggestions on where the ball should be entering the ramp? i.e: lower, middle or at the top?
Or did I get a weak red spring?

Subtle adjustment I had to make was to bend the piece that the screw goes into to a different angle. Closer to or slightly more than a 90 degree angle. Then redo the ball adjustment guide. Mine was bent back and I couldn't get it to go up either. It should go up the ramp almost every time. Red spring is correct. If you get a stronger one you will be breaking plastic.

#3988 62 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

Thank You Pinflip and Vec-tor! Will put in an order tonight.
Another question-For anyone illuminating the star roll overs, saucer, and flipper buttons-which lamp sockets are you using? I see many different types and not sure what style I should get. Diodes or no diodes? Planning on using LEDS.

Here is how I did the Stars and Saucer.

IMG_9769 (resized).JPGPF_Bottom_18Mar (resized).jpgRoll-over_LED (resized).JPG
#3989 61 days ago
Quoted from pinflip_:

Shooter question:
I find that the shooter does not do a good job sending the ball up and around the ramp.
Pulling the shooter rod all the way back results in the ball looping around to the right upper flipper. The ball hits the ramp by the right hideout and bounces off there either resulting of making it around or go into the right hideout. Sometimes the ball doesn't make it fully up the ramp.
I have replaced the springs (the barrel spring and the red inner spring), washers and the sleeve. I have been messing around with the the adjustment on the ball guide under the don't drink and drive plastic.
I to aligned the shooter rod to hit close to the center of the ball as the adjustment allows so there is no spin on the ball.
Does anyone have any suggestions on where the ball should be entering the ramp? i.e: lower, middle or at the top?
Or did I get a weak red spring?

Many adjustment points:
1) top two 6-32 screws on the top of ramp mount bracket:
1a) loosen screws set back ramp wall forward... [ clear the side kickers ]
---retighten screws.
2) counter sink the shooter guide rail into the wood side trim.
2a) remove the right wood side trim... cut n router out enough material to just make the
--- metal side wall set into the wood trim. [ you should be able to have the ball not rub against
--- the metal wall ]
2b) refasten rail to wood trim and remount right wood side trim to playfield.
2c) test plunger shot.
2d) adjust metal rail wall at bend through right exit.
3) ball should be able to fly across playfield and enter left ramp.
3a) ball should enter left ramp at the middle and lower left wall for optimum effect.

#3990 61 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Here is how I did the Stars and Saucer.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Those look good.
What are they and where did you get them? I assume they are white/clear?
And your game looks disgustingly clean!

Found the bulbs and sockets. Just deciding if I should get red or white....

#3991 61 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

Possibly a relay click but I put my finger on the relay as it was going but it didn't seem like I could feel anything.
Andy- You don't like the back glass in general, you don't like mine, or you don't like the repro?

I just don't like the backglass. Colours are washed out and its just plain ugly IMO.

#3992 61 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

Those look good.
What are they and where did you get them? I assume they are white/clear?
And your game looks disgustingly clean!
Found the bulbs and sockets. Just deciding if I should get red or white....

I think I installed white but red would work as well. More of personal choice

#3993 58 days ago

What is the best way to remove the head?

#3994 58 days ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

What is the best way to remove the head?

Have a friend help you.

#3995 58 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Have a friend help you.

LOL! I was thinking about the best way to break it down. I forgot how I did it the last time.

#3996 58 days ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

LOL! I was thinking about the best way to break it down. I forgot how I did it the last time.

Do you want to remove the backbox? or are you wanting to fold it down and have the hole thing resting upright?

#3997 58 days ago

I was looking for the best way to transport it in an Suburban. I didn't think about folding the head over. The last time I moved it, I had the head off.

#3998 58 days ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

I was looking for the best way to transport it in an Suburban. I didn't think about folding the head over. The last time I moved it, I had the head off.

I do not know what year your car is but:
1) open back door... measure heighth.
2) set backbox down [ with padding on playfield ]
3) measure back of games heighth.
Answer:
is game smaller and can clear insert into car?
yes: finish disassembly... remember to use a strap to keep backbox fasten to main cabinet.
no: one has to disassemble backbox wiring harness and remove hinge carriage bolts...

#3999 56 days ago

So I bought new locks and a coin door cam from Pin Life. They did not have the bars for the coin door. Cam does not hold tight against door frame, coin door can open about 1/2". Does this look like correct cam for coin door? Also turns open on it's own if you leave key in. Back box lock works but is tight. I think it turns opposite direction from original as it hits ground cable.

20201122_204358 (resized).jpg
#4000 56 days ago

Hoping someone in the club can help. I'm swapping out a playfield and found this wire nut and an associated wire. Believing it's a flasher but not finding any pics. Does anyone know or can verify?

Or is it a wire break that was pulled through the playfield and through a hole in the plastic? That seems pretty unlikely.

Wire nut left rear (resized).jpg
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