High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

Hmmm... cheap fix if they work! Wonder if I would put this after doing the hard top though.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/hspeed.htm

I asked cliff this very question. Ultimately I decided not to do it at all.

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Good to know!!

So I guess I am officially an led convert even for a great traditional High Speed game. Tried a few flex head led's by Comet (Thanks Killborn) and they are pretty neat. Put them anyplace there was a light that flashed into my eyes (under the slingshot, next to the San Diego Freeway sign) and they work great. Put one to the left of the SD Freeway sign and it lights up the hole kickout area real good. I suggest HS owners give them a try. They really light up the game.

Can someone please measure or even scan this metal piece. Is it a flat piece? Mine is missing. Looks like just 2 screws to remove it and I need it in order to install the sign mod Thanks!

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Padawan leaner seeks Jedi Master wise in the ways of hideout switch adjustment.
I have not witnessed it but my son tells me the left hand hideout solenoid goes into random machine gun mode. Diagnostics say it is switches 39 and 40. I've searched and seen several mentions of adjusting them, but actual explanation of how. Can anyone shed some light on the process please? Also saw someone say to just replace them due to age and use.

One more for tonight. First picture is of the inside of my Laser Ball cabinet. There is a "bar"? that the lock cam engages to hold the door closed. Second picture is my HS. That piece is missing.
First question is-What is that piece called?
Second-Is it the same piece that is missing from HS or is it somehow different?

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That would explain it. I suspect the original door lock may have been drilled out possibly. It has a newer lock in it with a cam like the Laser Ball has. It does not close securely. There is an original style key in the head box that doesn't appear to unlock it. I think that maybe was the door key? Did these come with a single key to open both locks or one key for each?

Think it was Marcos where I saw the t cam but the arms are out of stock.

Tonight's questions, if I may. Can anyone provide a picture that shows what the missing piece in my picture looks like? The one on the end of the metal bar above the kicker.
Game says hold flipper button for status. Can anyone enlighten me as to how this works or what status it is supposed to show me? Nothing happens that I can tell when holding the button. Is this supposed to tell you sometj8ng during play or in game over mode?

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Apologies for the bad picture, it's the best I could do with my high speed not here. There should be a metal housing with a screw through it.

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My High Speed has been running pretty good lately. The only problem is the top playfield flashers were not working. Put in all new bulbs - Still not working. Went under the playfield and found these 2 resistors? under the ramp entrance. The resistor on the left had its top connection loose so I soldered it back on. Can not start game - kids sleeping. Does this picture look right and could this fix my flashers problem? Thanks.

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Yes, That is the resistor set for the upper playfield flasher bulbs. Bulbs are in series so if one goes out neither will work. You replaced both so that possibility should be eliminated.

Yes, but if you are running led flashers you will need to disconnect the smaller resistor to keep the flashers from being stuck on at power up.

Can someone provide a link for the warning sticker mod under the ramp.

I think Mr. Tantrum has it in the Market under High Speed Freeplay40 Ramp Road Decal Set.

going to check my friends HS in an hour actually to look at this exact same problem. both flashers not working. are you using 89's? i read they are supposed to be 63s so im bringing some 63s with me and see if that fixes it and ill check those resistors when im there too!

incase anyone needs!

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I switched to 63’s for the flashers. Game had 89’s in it and I can not tell the difference. Thanks Grumpy and Pin-Pilot for the help. All flashers are working...for now.

Have some back box questions tonight.
First one is the back glass. Mine has wrinkle/bubbles. Is this something that is fixable? Or should I be looking for new vinyl or a new back glass?
Seller told me it has a remote nvram. Actually looked at it the other day and it is a remote battery holder and the batteries have magic marker on them that says Oct 2018. My other pin has an nvram chip on the board. Did some searching but not finding what I need to add an nvram chip. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Red light on top works fine but seems to make a clickey noise. Is this normal or should it be more quiet?
Last one...1 and 2 player displays seem to have "ghosting?" Top center bits of each digit seems to always show when not used. 3 and 4 seem fine. Is this a display issue or something else? Saw those xpin colored displays. Most were out of stock but the different colors were pretty nice lo9king.

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I don't think there us anything you can do with the backglass other than live with it or replace. CPR offer a repro. Why you would bother with such an awful glass is another matter. I absolutely love the pin but that backglass - jeez!

To fit an nvram means unsoldering the 6116 on the CPU and fitting the nvram board. Not a big job if you have the soldering skills.

Does the beacon make a clicky noise as it rotates? Can't remember mine doing that. Is something catching somewhere or is it like a relay click?

Anyone happen to have a proper name or even part number for this? No luck finding one so far.

Possibly a relay click but I put my finger on the relay as it was going but it didn't seem like I could feel anything.

Andy- You don't like the back glass in general, you don't like mine, or you don't like the repro?

Shooter question:
I find that the shooter does not do a good job sending the ball up and around the ramp.

Pulling the shooter rod all the way back results in the ball looping around to the right upper flipper. The ball hits the ramp by the right hideout and bounces off there either resulting of making it around or go into the right hideout. Sometimes the ball doesn't make it fully up the ramp.

I have replaced the springs (the barrel spring and the red inner spring), washers and the sleeve. I have been messing around with the the adjustment on the ball guide under the don't drink and drive plastic.
I to aligned the shooter rod to hit close to the center of the ball as the adjustment allows so there is no spin on the ball.

Does anyone have any suggestions on where the ball should be entering the ramp? i.e: lower, middle or at the top?
Or did I get a weak red spring?

I took out my standoff/post and measured it. It is 1/2" long with an od of 3/16" and an id of 1/8"
standoffstandoff
The accompanying screw should be a #5x7/8" wood screw#5x7/8" wood screw#5x7/8" wood screw#5x7/8" wood screw w/ standoff

Thank You Pinflip and Vec-tor! Will put in an order tonight.

Another question-For anyone illuminating the star roll overs, saucer, and flipper buttons-which lamp sockets are you using? I see many different types and not sure what style I should get. Diodes or no diodes? Planning on using LEDS.

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Subtle adjustment I had to make was to bend the piece that the screw goes into to a different angle. Closer to or slightly more than a 90 degree angle. Then redo the ball adjustment guide. Mine was bent back and I couldn't get it to go up either. It should go up the ramp almost every time. Red spring is correct. If you get a stronger one you will be breaking plastic.

Here is how I did the Stars and Saucer.

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Those look good.
What are they and where did you get them? I assume they are white/clear?
And your game looks disgustingly clean!

Found the bulbs and sockets. Just deciding if I should get red or white....

I just don't like the backglass. Colours are washed out and its just plain ugly IMO.

I think I installed white but red would work as well. More of personal choice

What is the best way to remove the head?

Have a friend help you.

LOL! I was thinking about the best way to break it down. I forgot how I did it the last time.

I was looking for the best way to transport it in an Suburban. I didn't think about folding the head over. The last time I moved it, I had the head off.

So I bought new locks and a coin door cam from Pin Life. They did not have the bars for the coin door. Cam does not hold tight against door frame, coin door can open about 1/2". Does this look like correct cam for coin door? Also turns open on it's own if you leave key in. Back box lock works but is tight. I think it turns opposite direction from original as it hits ground cable.

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Hoping someone in the club can help. I'm swapping out a playfield and found this wire nut and an associated wire. Believing it's a flasher but not finding any pics. Does anyone know or can verify?

Or is it a wire break that was pulled through the playfield and through a hole in the plastic? That seems pretty unlikely.

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