(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

By lordloss

8 years ago


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#3901 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

The 7447 chip is a BCD to seven segment driver chip. BCD is the way computers can count with just highs and lows. The 7447 chip converts the 4 BCD inputs to the seven segment outputs.
[quoted image]

I found a video on YT of this chip being demonstrated with a 7-segment display with a computer program. I found it interesting. The video showed that you can actually get outputs higher than 9 with these “c” shaped patterns. That’s exactly what I was getting before the display died completely. I don’t know if it was trying to show me a 10, or a 12, or what, but it now seems to be a legit output instead of random characters. Now that the display isn’t showing anything, I’m wondering if the 7447 is bad, and the “c” was it on the way out, or if something even further upstream from that is bad.

Here is the video. If you go to 6:24 he scrolls down to a second chart and backwards "c" is supposed to represent an 11. My MPU has been Spinal Tapped.


71EC95FC-FAC8-48D5-8ABD-DFCDC05FA55B (resized).jpeg

#3902 1 year ago

Grumpy saves the day *again*!

#3903 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I’m wondering if the 7447 is bad,

That's what I'm thinking.

#3904 1 year ago

Anyone have an original High Speed flyer for sale? I just need one

#3905 1 year ago

Hello guys,

Could someone give me the dimensions of the High Speed back glass?

I did find them online but I don't think they are correct.

#3906 1 year ago
Quoted from Axaios:

Hello guys,
Could someone give me the dimensions of the High Speed back glass?
I did find them online but I don't think they are correct.

28.5"h x 21.25"w

#3907 1 year ago

Dispatch-I'm having an issue with the diverter. Please advise

so lately the diverter has not been working. The ball just flys on by. I'm sure it is in this thread but 79 pages is a lot to dig through

#3908 1 year ago
Quoted from Bax1:

Dispatch-I'm having an issue with the diverter. Please advise
so lately the diverter has not been working. The ball just flys on by. I'm sure it is in this thread but 79 pages is a lot to dig through

Make sure (with a ball, not your finger) that the switches are registering in switch test mode.

#3909 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Make sure (with a ball, not your finger) that the switches are registering in switch test mode.

Cool will give that a try

#3910 1 year ago

Forgot to mention that I think the switches are registering due to getting the ramp award

#3911 1 year ago
Quoted from Bax1:

Forgot to mention that I think the switches are registering due to getting the ramp award

Other thing would be to see if the diverter is working in coil test.

#3912 1 year ago

Ok so how do you get at those back switches

#3913 1 year ago
Quoted from Bax1:

Ok so how do you get at those back switches

If you have an OEM ramp with the clear cover you will need to remove that cover to easily access the switches with a ball.

First do an easy check of the molex connector for the ramp. It is located far back under the playfield. make sure it is connected together.

#3914 1 year ago

I am about to order parts for my HS project, and I have a flipper question.

There was a lighting bolt flipper (1/8" shorter) bat installed in one of the lower flippers (a normal Williams flipper bat was in the 3rd position). I figured it was the bat for the 3rd flipper, and someone switched the flipper bats not knowing the difference. However, it looks like there should be 3 normal Williams bats in all 3 positions. I haven't been able to find part numbers, so I'm hoping the HS community can get me straight!

#3915 1 year ago

Hey mrextrm. I was just out by you doing a beer run. All three are the same on mine. I also have a spare playfield and all the same. Someone probably swapped out and put in a lightning bolt flipper.

#3916 1 year ago

thanks!! Where were you getting beer from?

Quoted from Bax1:

Hey mrextrm. I was just out by you doing a beer run. All three are the same on mine. I also have a spare playfield and all the same. Someone probably swapped out and put in a lightning bolt flipper.

#3917 1 year ago
Quoted from MrExtrm:

I am about to order parts for my HS project, and I have a flipper question.
There was a lighting bolt flipper (1/8" shorter) bat installed in one of the lower flippers (a normal Williams flipper bat was in the 3rd position). I figured it was the bat for the 3rd flipper, and someone switched the flipper bats not knowing the difference. However, it looks like there should be 3 normal Williams bats in all 3 positions. I haven't been able to find part numbers, so I'm hoping the HS community can get me straight!

All 3 should be the same.

I have lightning flippers installed on my lower flippers, but that's not factory and is more for a competition set up.

#3918 1 year ago
Quoted from MrExtrm:

thanks!! Where were you getting beer from?

Holiday Market. Had a dragons milk flavor that was keg only. Grabbed the last one.

#3919 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

If you have an OEM ramp with the clear cover you will need to remove that cover to easily access the switches with a ball.
First do an easy check of the molex connector for the ramp. It is located far back under the playfield. make sure it is connected together.

Ok got to messing with this. So ramps where barely registering. Took ramp out. Changed switches. Made sure they where adjusted nicely and left switch sometimes reads. What could be causing this? I’ll make sure they are adjusted better and tight. Any other ideas or is there a way to adjust without pulling the ramp?

#3920 1 year ago

Pulling the ramp is the only way I know to adjust the switches. Since they need precise adjustment you need to have unobstructed access to them.

Did you hook up a multi meter to the problem switch when the ramp was out to see if it is registering good without any resistance?

#3921 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Pulling the ramp is the only way I know to adjust the switches. Since they need precise adjustment you need to have unobstructed access to them.
Did you hook up a multi meter to the problem switch when the ramp was out to see if it is registering good without any resistance?

I have not. Will do that when I pull the ramp again. Didn’t think about that. Thank you

#3922 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

That's what I'm thinking.

New 7447 came in today. No luck. The 7-segment is still out on the MPU.

#3923 1 year ago

Hello High Speeders,

I have an issue with my HS, where the Left side GI is out.

I was wondering if anyone has encountered this before and has any specific problem point? I measured the voltage on the power driver board, it seems to have 4 yellow leads coming out, I presume these are for the GI. The voltages measure 12 and 9 V. It seems a bit odd, not sure if my meter is acting up or how this circuit works. The continuity seems fine between the PF harness, so I'm hoping someone can help me confirm if I am measuring this correctly or may have an idea where I may look next. Everything else works fine.

Thank you-

#3924 1 year ago
Quoted from koji:

Hello High Speeders,
I have an issue with my HS, where the Left side GI is out.
I was wondering if anyone has encountered this before and has any specific problem point? I measured the voltage on the power driver board, it seems to have 4 yellow leads coming out, I presume these are for the GI. The voltages measure 12 and 9 V. It seems a bit odd, not sure if my meter is acting up or how this circuit works. The continuity seems fine between the PF harness, so I'm hoping someone can help me confirm if I am measuring this correctly or may have an idea where I may look next. Everything else works fine.
Thank you-

Have you tested the 4 GI fuses yet?

#3925 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

New 7447 came in today. No luck. The 7-segment is still out on the MPU.

Did you install a socket for the 7447 chip? Is the cpu booting?

#3926 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Have you tested the 4 GI fuses yet?

Ahh.. thanks for the sanity check Grumpy.

I was measuring voltage out of each side of all of them, so didn't think much about it... but the second one down did look slightly burnt, so I just replaced it and it's all good now.

Thanks.. man, I thought I was going insane... but glad I still have a few years left apparently.

Thank you-

#3927 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Did you install a socket for the 7447 chip? Is the cpu booting?

I did install a socket. I don’t know if the CPU is booting, is there a way to know without the 7-segment showing anything?

1 week later
#3928 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I did install a socket. I don’t know if the CPU is booting, is there a way to know without the 7-segment showing anything?

You could check the voltage of the blanking signal.

#3929 1 year ago

Headed out tomorrow, just on loan at this point. Lots of driving ahead. :'(

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#3930 1 year ago

For all new High Speed owners. I strongly recommend that you consider the stop light mod that has been created by RobTune. I did it on my machine - actually painted it School Bus Yellow - and it really opens up the ramp. From a DIY perspective - I would call it about a 5 out of 10 for difficulty. For pinball work I would call it a 2 out of 10 for difficulty. Good Luck.

IMG_2916 (resized).jpg
#3931 1 year ago

I've got a chance to get a high speed locally for $1350. I went and checked it out yesterday and the sound wasn't working (I think just a loose wire, we were able to get the speakers to make some noise by shifting around some cables behind the coin door) and the pop bumpers weren't working either. He said both were working when he got the game in a few weeks ago, so maybe a fuse or something (there was 1 blown fuse that I noticed).

The backglass is pretty much trash, it's cracked and taped together in the bottom right. Displays seem good and the lights look good as well. PF is mylar'd and in good condition. Unshopped, obviously, PF glass needs replaced.

He had it marked at $1900 originally and took it down to $1700 and then told me his best price is $1350 so I have some room to get it up and running correctly. Thoughts on if I should pick it up or if I should just wait for a shopped game to shop up on here for $1800? Currently have 1x EM Royal Flush and 1x DE MNF -- I was thinking I would like a 2000s+ game next, but it's hard for me to say no to a good deal, so I'm thinking about adding this and then having my first real project pin to take on. Let me know what you think.

#3932 1 year ago

If it was me, I wouldn't pay 1350 needing a lot of work and new backglass. you can find better out there fully working for the same price area.

#3933 1 year ago
Quoted from BrettRS:

I've got a chance to get a high speed locally for $1350. I went and checked it out yesterday and the sound wasn't working (I think just a loose wire, we were able to get the speakers to make some noise by shifting around some cables behind the coin door) and the pop bumpers weren't working either. He said both were working when he got the game in a few weeks ago, so maybe a fuse or something (there was 1 blown fuse that I noticed).
The backglass is pretty much trash, it's cracked and taped together in the bottom right. Displays seem good and the lights look good as well. PF is mylar'd and in good condition. Unshopped, obviously, PF glass needs replaced.
He had it marked at $1900 originally and took it down to $1700 and then told me his best price is $1350 so I have some room to get it up and running correctly. Thoughts on if I should pick it up or if I should just wait for a shopped game to shop up on here for $1800? Currently have 1x EM Royal Flush and 1x DE MNF -- I was thinking I would like a 2000s+ game next, but it's hard for me to say no to a good deal, so I'm thinking about adding this and then having my first real project pin to take on. Let me know what you think.

I just paid $200 for a somewhat working one with a good glass. My deal was by far an exception, but I assure you that better deals are out there if you wait. I've seen a couple fully functional decent ones this year for sub $1500

#3934 1 year ago
Quoted from Bax1:

If it was me, I wouldn't pay 1350 needing a lot of work and new backglass. you can find better out there fully working for the same price area.

Quoted from Penguindeity:

I just paid $200 for a somewhat working one with a good glass. My deal was by far an exception, but I assure you that better deals are out there if you wait. I've seen a couple fully functional decent ones this year for sub $1500

Thanks for the honesty rather than just encouraging me to join the owner's club! I told him I'll hold off for now and keep my eyes on his upcoming listings. It didn't really fit with my plans for pin 3 anyways, I want a newer machine next. At some point I'll probably consider trading MNF for something else from the magical late 80s early 90s era.

#3935 1 year ago

Its a great game and one that probably will not leave my collection. Not leaving due to remembering this was one I went to at the arcade. Now if you can get a good deal on one, which you can, snatch it up. It's a great classic.

That one you are looking at sounds like it would be a little bit of a money pit and you'd be upside down very quick.

#3936 1 year ago

9 months ago I bought a real nice High Speed in full working condition for $1,600. Nice High Speed games are out there for reasonable prices

#3937 1 year ago
Quoted from BrettRS:

I've got a chance to get a high speed locally for $1350. I went and checked it out yesterday and the sound wasn't working (I think just a loose wire, we were able to get the speakers to make some noise by shifting around some cables behind the coin door) and the pop bumpers weren't working either. He said both were working when he got the game in a few weeks ago, so maybe a fuse or something (there was 1 blown fuse that I noticed).
The backglass is pretty much trash, it's cracked and taped together in the bottom right. Displays seem good and the lights look good as well. PF is mylar'd and in good condition. Unshopped, obviously, PF glass needs replaced.
He had it marked at $1900 originally and took it down to $1700 and then told me his best price is $1350 so I have some room to get it up and running correctly. Thoughts on if I should pick it up or if I should just wait for a shopped game to shop up on here for $1800? Currently have 1x EM Royal Flush and 1x DE MNF -- I was thinking I would like a 2000s+ game next, but it's hard for me to say no to a good deal, so I'm thinking about adding this and then having my first real project pin to take on. Let me know what you think.

I think 1350 isn't terrible if it's nice other than the glass. How "not" shopped is it? Does it just need cleaned and new rubbers, or does it look like it's had a bunch of leaves decomposing inside it? Does it play?

I got mine in working condition with a meh playfield, two dead displays, and a jacked up battery holder (adjust failure) and paid 800. Xpin displays, a hardtop, a clear starship fantasy ramp, and some....TLC... later, and it's pretty damn nice. 1350 basically puts you at 1700 when you replace the glass. If it's nice otherwise and just needs cleaned up, that's not bad. One just sold down the street from me for 1800, almost immediately, and it needed some TLC for sure. But it did work and function properly.

#3938 1 year ago

I have a really nice custom translite for High Speed, never used. All you need is the glass. PM for for details.

Ken

#3939 1 year ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

I have a really nice custom translite for High Speed, never used. All you need is the glass. PM for for details.
Ken

Let's see it

#3940 1 year ago
Quoted from The_Great_Man:

For all new High Speed owners. I strongly recommend that you consider the stop light mod that has been created by RobTune. I did it on my machine - actually painted it School Bus Yellow - and it really opens up the ramp. From a DIY perspective - I would call it about a 5 out of 10 for difficulty. For pinball work I would call it a 2 out of 10 for difficulty. Good Luck.
[quoted image]

Thanks for posting the feedback.

#3941 1 year ago
Quoted from BrettRS:

I've got a chance to get a high speed locally for $1350. I went and checked it out yesterday and the sound wasn't working (I think just a loose wire, we were able to get the speakers to make some noise by shifting around some cables behind the coin door) and the pop bumpers weren't working either. He said both were working when he got the game in a few weeks ago, so maybe a fuse or something (there was 1 blown fuse that I noticed).
The backglass is pretty much trash, it's cracked and taped together in the bottom right. Displays seem good and the lights look good as well. PF is mylar'd and in good condition. Unshopped, obviously, PF glass needs replaced.
He had it marked at $1900 originally and took it down to $1700 and then told me his best price is $1350 so I have some room to get it up and running correctly. Thoughts on if I should pick it up or if I should just wait for a shopped game to shop up on here for $1800? Currently have 1x EM Royal Flush and 1x DE MNF -- I was thinking I would like a 2000s+ game next, but it's hard for me to say no to a good deal, so I'm thinking about adding this and then having my first real project pin to take on. Let me know what you think.

I paid $700 CDN for one with a non firing left sling and left lower bumper. Couldn't get it figured out so I called in a service guy. It was over fused and blew out part of the board. Got it all fixed up for under $300cdn and now works great for under $1000 bucks Canadian.

You must be able to find better deals in the US. Ours are generally more expensive to buy here due to lower supply.

#3942 1 year ago
Quoted from BrettRS:

I've got a chance to get a high speed locally for $1350. I went and checked it out yesterday and the sound wasn't working (I think just a loose wire, we were able to get the speakers to make some noise by shifting around some cables behind the coin door) and the pop bumpers weren't working either. He said both were working when he got the game in a few weeks ago, so maybe a fuse or something (there was 1 blown fuse that I noticed).
The backglass is pretty much trash, it's cracked and taped together in the bottom right. Displays seem good and the lights look good as well. PF is mylar'd and in good condition. Unshopped, obviously, PF glass needs replaced.
He had it marked at $1900 originally and took it down to $1700 and then told me his best price is $1350 so I have some room to get it up and running correctly. Thoughts on if I should pick it up or if I should just wait for a shopped game to shop up on here for $1800? Currently have 1x EM Royal Flush and 1x DE MNF -- I was thinking I would like a 2000s+ game next, but it's hard for me to say no to a good deal, so I'm thinking about adding this and then having my first real project pin to take on. Let me know what you think.

mine cost me $1500cdn and i had to replace some transistors on the circuit board, a couple of pop bumpers and a slingshot werent working properly. other than that the machine was in pretty good shape tho

Quoted from The_Great_Man:

For all new High Speed owners. I strongly recommend that you consider the stop light mod that has been created by RobTune. I did it on my machine - actually painted it School Bus Yellow - and it really opens up the ramp. From a DIY perspective - I would call it about a 5 out of 10 for difficulty. For pinball work I would call it a 2 out of 10 for difficulty. Good Luck.
[quoted image]

i also added this new traffic light mod and totally agree that its fully worth it

#3943 1 year ago

So on my High Speed there is a light bulb just to the left of the San Diego Freeway sign and almost under the far right pop bumper (The bright white light in the photo). There is nothing blocking or diffusing this light and it is kind of annoying - to me at least. Has anyone put something over this light like a light cover or something else that keeps the light from being so bright. I have a warm white Comet LED in there now and i am wondering if I should change this light to something different. There are so many new LED's out there - there must be something that will not shine in my eyes.

IMG_2916 (resized).jpg
#3944 1 year ago
Quoted from The_Great_Man:

So on my High Speed there is a light bulb just to the left of the San Diego Freeway sign and almost under the far right pop bumper (The bright white light in the photo). There is nothing blocking or diffusing this light and it is kind of annoying - to me at least. Has anyone put something over this light like a light cover or something else that keeps the light from being so bright. I have a warm white Comet LED in there now and i am wondering if I should change this light to something different. There are so many new LED's out there - there must be something that will not shine in my eyes.
[quoted image]

I had at least a handful of bulbs that were blasting me in the eyes. I used some of the single and double flex heads from Comet, and they worked great. Just direct the light wherever you want.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/1smd-flex

#3945 1 year ago

Thank you Killborn. I just ordered some of the flex heads and I will see how they work

#3946 1 year ago

Slingshot Kicker Assembly. New issue....for me at least. I feel like both my slingshot kickers are a little sloppy and sluggish and are not real snappy. The rubbers, coils and sleeves seem fine and the switches are adjusted pretty good. In the at rest position, there is about a 1/8" gap between the kicker arm and the rubber. The problem seems to be that I can move the kicker arm around quite a bit - both side to side and front to back. Not sure how much play you should have in the kicker arm but there seems to be too much. I have never taken one apart and can not figure out which piece(s) I need to buy to fix this. Do I get the plunger and link? Will a new kicker arm fix the excess play? I know there are many other forums talking about this but I need it simplified as to what piece(s) I need to replace. And I have not played other High Speed games in the past 30 years so maybe that is just the way they are. Thanks.

#3947 1 year ago

Hey guys.

Quick question. Had a repair guy in fixing up my HS and he mentioned that the 'hole' is pretty beat up in the hideout. Is there any way of repairing it? I plan on doing a Hardtop at some point and I'm thinking if it is all worn it would affect the effectiveness of the Hard top as well.

#3948 1 year ago
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

Hey guys.
Quick question. Had a repair guy in fixing up my HS and he mentioned that the 'hole' is pretty beat up in the hideout. Is there any way of repairing it? I plan on doing a Hardtop at some point and I'm thinking if it is all worn it would affect the effectiveness of the Hard top as well.

Repair it when you install the hardtop. Fill, sand, paint, clear--THICK. If you clear the entire thing before you lay the hardtop down it should fit in nicely with the work you'll do on inserts and the shooter lane.

Mine was pretty bad also but came out okay (I'm sure you can mix a better color than I ended up with). Only regret, I didn't put enough clear down so some of the paint has already started to chip.

Most likely you'll see more of the top of the hole than the bottom -- my hardtop covered the bottom lip for the most part.
IMG_20200307_105254 (resized).jpgIMG_20200307_131333 (resized).jpgIMG_20200307_151551 (resized).jpgIMG_20200307_152336 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200307_153812 (resized).jpg
#3949 1 year ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Repair it when you install the hardtop. Fill, sand, paint, clear--THICK. If you clear the entire thing before you lay the hardtop down it should fit in nicely with the work you'll do on inserts and the shooter lane.
Mine was pretty bad also but came out okay (I'm sure you can mix a better color than I ended up with). Only regret, I didn't put enough clear down so some of the paint has already started to chip.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Ok.
That's what I figured.
Was kinda hoping there was an aftermarket product to place in the hole though. lol!

#3950 1 year ago
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

Ok.
That's what I figured.
Was kinda hoping there was an aftermarket product to place in the hole though. lol!

The typical thing a lot of people do is install a cliffy.

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