Maybe this is a silly question...
I see ROM set updates for sale; how does one figure out if their ROM's are up to date?

My game has the original 1/2 rib legs.
Buying new legs.
Ribbed or smooth?
According to pbr the legs should be smooth up to 1987.

I guess it would be up to you. Is your pin all original? Are there any mods? If you are keeping it all 100% original then you should stick with original I imagine. In the end I don't think it is that big of a deal.

Just so they're the correct length.

The original ones are crimped a little too tight and dug into the side of the cabinet. Plus they are not going to look good no matter what i do.

Sometimes it is on the sticker on the ROM chips on the MPU. If not, you can get that info from the diagnostic menu.

Beauty... thank you... just about to get it moved from storage and want to have a list of things to check/install/upgrade!

There are several restore threads you can go through on Pinside. Lots of good info.

I'm looking to add lights under my star rollovers for HS. Anyone have suggestions? I'm installing new play field and now is the time to do it. Also I need 2 new blue hot dogs. I believe the heat of the bulbs melted them a little over time. I am willing to go with opaque hot dogs but would want to install blue LED flashers. I can't find #63 colored LED. Anyone have any leads?

Adding lights to the Star rollovers is very easy. I just completed my #hs full restore and did exactly that. I have included a picture for you to see. I also added lighting to the kickout. Just wire it into the existing GI wiring next to the rollovers.Roll-over_LED (resized).JPG

I purchased a new CPR playfield for my restore so did not have to deal with inserts. However I believe you can find them. Try PBR. I know I have seen them for sale on one of the pinball sites.

I'm sure this has been hashed out a zillion times, but on my beacon if I position the wire juuuuuuuuuuuuuust right it'll work fine. If it moves, at all really, it stops turning. Is there any way to actually fix this motor, or is it something that I should just give in and replace? I had it working for a bit, but now it's back to not spinning. Driving me absolutely bonkers.

That sounds like a loose connection in a wire or connector. The wire you are moving, is it right next to the motor where you are moving it? If it is the wire going into the motor you may be out of luck as far as repairing it. If it is not right next to the motor you can cut out the part of the wire that is causing the issue.

Can you upload a picture of the area you are talking about.

Pretty sure it's right by the motor, so that stinks. I did get it adjusted to where it's working again..... For now.

This high speed really doesn't want me to love it, I think. My pops are a nightmare, I've still got a lamp matrix issue to sort, and my ramp situation... Well.. Yeah. I have so much I need to go revisit so this thing is actually fun to play again... But I did will my way to a pretty decent score earlier and that brought back some of the love.

IMG_20200806_123046 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200806_123101 (resized).jpg

I’m on the tail end of reviving a High Speed. It played a few years ago when I set it aside waiting for the HS hardtop to come out, and then for time to put it in. That’s all done, and now it’s the electronics.

With things plugged in and a new cap kit on the power supply board I’m getting 5V on the MPU test point, but this funky digit on the display. There is a little bit of glow, but it’s those 3 segments that make a U shape. No clue what it’s trying to say.

8AEB0DDE-486F-4FD1-B818-C9FFF4D11DDE (resized).jpeg

Anybody know a source or have any extra high speed / williams metal light socket strips? I need 6 - 3 position strips, 1 straight - 5 position strip, 4 angled 5 position strips. I’m doing a pf swap and most of the sockets are corroded and after cleaning the harness some sockets are coming off the metal light strip brackets. I would like to keep it looking original if possible. Thanks

44176B5C-709F-4D3C-9C6E-10685F625BD4 (resized).jpeg

533B5315-92C7-474C-A913-2577C9CE87B7 (resized).jpeg

57621EFB-98EE-4937-BBA9-B9CDC76C4737 (resized).jpeg

ADF56E84-FC53-4FA9-B4EB-8B03C74A3B96 (resized).jpeg

FFAF5A3A-F811-431C-A495-A9D2D1BC2122 (resized).jpeg

You may have to go with individual sockets unless you find used ones.

I tried but couldn’t find a way to rebuild the lamp sockets on the metal strips and I knew that I would eventually have problems with them. I had most of the same issues that you have, lamps falling off the metal strips, corrosion, etc.

I ended up just replacing all of them with new individual lamps during my pf swap. It was a lot of work, but I believe the reliability makes it worth the effort.

I’ll give it a bit of time to try to find some but yeah if nobody has any, I’ll have to do the individual sockets. Do you know the part # of the ones you used? Thanks

I believe it was this style:
https://www.pinballlife.com/miniature-bayonet-base-3-lead-socket-with-long-mounting-bracket.html

If I DMM the reset test point and the gnd test point on the MPU, what value should I get? I was reading that the reset circuit needs 12v do reset and I'm getting 5V. Seems like a pretty convenient value to be wrong.

There is a thread that shows strange places you have seen balls stuck but I cannot find it. So I am posting this one here in the High Speed forum.

IMG_0814 (resized).jpg

Haha, nice one!

I'm still dealing with annoying sh1t on mine, primarily with the ramp passing the ball (usually when I'm running the red light and I've hit it HARD, it seems) and crappy pop action..but I don't think I have any weird spots where balls can/do get hung up, thankfully. I really wish I could dial in the frustrating parts on my game, because I feel like I'd want to play it a LOT if so... As it is it's just an occasional play for me. Oh, and I'm too damn lazy to try tracking down the lamp matrix problem...

Most of my issues seem to be related to me being too lazy, it seems..although those ramp switches and pops have absolutely fought everything I've tried, so I can't say I haven't given it at least a college try.. The lamp matrix issues.. I resolved one column by just bending diodes back (my rotisserie-less hardtop was probably to blame for this) but the other I just haven't been able to figure out.

I just had to replace Q43 on the switch matrix (Left hideout switches, all 3 pop bumpers, both Flipper switches, and the ball shooter switch). Not sure why it blew but all of a sudden it was not working. Easy fix really. All working great now.

Its a bummer you are having issues still with your High Speed. I would love to help you out. diagnosing that via thread messages is difficult. I replaced both ramp switches. The gap has to be very precise. too sensitive and it goes off with vibration, not sensitive enough and it will not have time to actuate the solenoid in time to send the ball down the first wire cage.

Seems mine works MOST of the time..but will trigger occasionally on a hard hit to the ramp. Seems 50/50 on whether or not it'll register properly when I'm actually running the light though. And unfortunately that's the one that is the most noticeable to not get credit for because it makes you do it again! :'(

I’m putting back together my High Speed and rebuilding the slingshot, kicker arm and ball eject assemblies. I have four 2” length plungers and two 2.25” plungers. My question is which assemblies do the two longer 2.25” plungers belong to? The manual shows 2” plungers for the ball eject and kicker arm assemblies. So do the longer ones go on the 2 slingshots? Not sure if the manual is correct. Thanks

0E96370D-F4C0-4EAF-9C3F-D27B94AF229A (resized).jpeg

7C599E07-DB78-49BF-80F9-4550DC9389A5 (resized).jpeg

EF253570-4882-44D9-BB36-8704AE782AE1 (resized).jpeg

I believe the two kicker arms on the left are for the right and left hideouts. The two to the right with the nylon kicker heads are for the slings.

Thanks sorry for the confusion, I know where the assemblies go but my question is regarding the plunger length, four of them are 2” plungers and two are 2.25” plungers. I’m not sure which assembly the longer plungers belong to (not sure if I put them back together correctly). Do the slingshots with the nylon heads have 2” plungers or 2.25” plungers etc

I do not have my game apart however I am guessing that the 2.25" longer plungers match up with the Hideout solenoids. They use different coils and it would be my guess they go to those coils. To launch the ball out of the hideout takes some good force.

GRUMPY may be able to chime in on this one. If I get time to measure my Hideout plungers I will let you know what I find out.

The Kickback solenoid is also a "900" however it is a completely different plunger so not much help there.

The manual does not depict the slingshot assembly for some reason. Only the Hideout Kicker arm and Eject assemblies. But shows the same plunger number. There are numbers errors in the High Speed manual so for this to be an error is possible. Must have put the new guy in charge of the High Speed documentation LOL.

IMG_0969 (resized).jpg

Thanks that would make sense and agree with my tear down pics/measurements which show the longer plungers on the 2 Hideouts. I was confused because of the manual showing a 2” plunger for the hideouts and the fact my High Speed was a disaster with incorrect parts/coils everywhere etc I wasn’t sure if previous owners put the wrong length plungers in the wrong spots.

Hi there, just got a High Speed, my first machine ever. Everything works well but after two weeks, the kickback is totally dead, doesn't do anything. Everything else works, no other issues with the machine.

What should I do?

thank you so much for any advice you can give me, especially as a first time owner and newcomer to opening a machine

Lance

Does it work in solenoid test? Fuses good?

If it works there, is the switch above it working? Check it in switch/edge test to confirm.

Thank you, I appreciate getting back to me.

As a new and novice owner, I don't know what a solenoid test is, how to test fuses, what a switch/edge test is, etc. Sorry for my lack of knowledge, opening the machine is a whole new world to me. Thanks for any basic information that may help me.

Everything else works, when it drains into the left lane/kickback, there is no click or action on the kickback at all

thank you

My guess is it is the fuse. High Speed was my first (and still only) game as well and that was an issue I had. The left outlane kick back didn't work. Also, the saucer wouldn't kick the ball out and when balls would drain it wouldn't send it back over to the shooter lane. All of that was repaired with a fuse replacement. I believe it is the bottom fuse and it is a 2.5 fuse. I'd try that first and cross your fingers that is the repair. If it is, it's a cheap and easy fix.

First of all, Welcome to the club.

High Speed is a classic pin.

Did the pinball game come with an instruction manual? If not I would HIGHLY recommend you get one. They are an invaluable source of information and will will cover the Test and Diagnosis procedures KSUWildcatFan was referring to. You can download a PDF copy of the manual here.

https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=high+speed&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick#1176

click on ENGLISH MANUAL just above the pictures

The Game Adjustment/Diagnosis switches are on the coin door near the hinge.

follow the instructions in the manual page 23.

Go through the test menus to test the "coil test" and the "Switch Edges" test.

Let us know what results you get from there.

Thank you for the advice

I checked the fuse and it doesn't appear to be the problem, that would have been an easy fix

So I printed out the manual and ran the solenoid test but I don't understand where to find the results, it went through a bunch of things and went it got to the kickback nothing happened, am I supposed to do something else at that point

thank you for the link to the manual and I am blown away at all the different tweaks I could make to the game

What am I missing with the solenoid test

thank you
Lance

Hi Lance,

The Coil test triggers the solenoid at the board level and bypasses any physical switches.

You should hear each solenoid fire as it cycles through all the solenoids. There are flashers on the test too, you will SEE them light. The Kicker is #14. If the solenoid is not firing when the test gets to the Kicker then there is a problem with wiring to the Solenoid, or a transistor that controls the solenoid.

Coil and solenoid are the same thing.

Since you said it did nothing when it got to the kicker test #14 there are a few more things you can check.

This coil has a relay in the circuit. See picture. With the game turned on there should be about 65 Volts DC at the coil. The coil is under the apron but you can get at the coil wire under the playfield. If you have a Volt Meter measure the voltage at the relay terminal blue wire. see picture.
IMG_1052 (resized).JPG

Did the wire fall off the coil?

That would be a nice easy fix.

Hey y’all, I need some help with my display issue if you can please?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-extra-segment-lit#post-5840587

Do you hear the relay clicking during the coil test?

Grumpy to the Rescue! Grumpy knows his shit! Especially about High Speed.

No click no noise at all during test or play

thank you

Just throwing ideas out there. You may have a bad diode (resistor) across the coil. I had that issue once.

If you do not want the lamp strips... I would be interested.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lamp-socket-repair-part-two

Do you have a voltmeter?

I don't have one but I can one to borrow

Using Pin-Pilot's pic of his very nice playfield, I have marked a few of the wires. If you were to remove the ground wire from the relay and touch it to the brown wire on the relay, does the relay click now?

59d11fbdb414a192ec03ee4c7fc0e9b4469d8e0f (resized).jpg

Hey Grumpy. I tried finding this relay and resistor/diode set on the High Speed Instruction Manual schematics. I found Q7 but could not locate where this Kickback wiring diagram is. Is it depicted anywhere?