Small victory tonight...we have a left flipper again! Thanks Grumpy!

Still no kickback or hideout coils firing, but I’m not getting continuity through the kickback snubber or the right hideout snubber. Based on LFAutos suggestion I’m going to rebuild those snubbers and see what happens.

Thank you for all of the help! Very much appreciated.

As I mentioned to Grumpy, I am increasingly suspecting the snubber boards as I am not getting continuity in the kickback or right hideout snubber at all. I’m including a photo of the right snubber, as the resistor looks different but I am guessing it is the original as you mentioned or it is a replacement of the wrong value? I’m awful at correctly reading the values on these things.

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Thanks for the response guys! Mine does the same, glad to hear!!

Do you have voltage at the coils?

Mine always kicks it toward the right upper flipper but sometimes it goes past and sometimes it just lobs it right to it. I'm glad to see everyone else having random performance too.

I was thinking about putting in NVRAM in my HS. Is there a recommended brand that is the best? Also, What exactly needs done? Just take out U25, then put the 24 pin in, and then the new NVRAM?

thanks for the help.

I was playing yesterday and got to multiball and collected the hideout bonus. Lights flash like crazy, music gets wild..
Obviously this doesn't happen often for me. As I'm keeping balls in play, I notice slings and pop bumpers are dead. I turn on the game today and everything works fine. Is it normal for pops and slings to do that after collecting hideout bonus?

I listed all the parts for you just incase you couldn't read whats on the snubber board on the previous page MasterBlaster

Here you go for all the parts:

Components on the boards.....Caps 100uf 100v axial, Resistor 150ohms 2watt the original was 1/2watt and not upto the job and the diode 1N4004 or 1N4007

Thank You!!

No voltage at the kickback or hideout coils. I have 30V at the relays, and I have 30V at the kickback snubber and the left snubber but there is ZERO volts at the right snubber. I went to the local Radio Shack and they only had 100 ohm 1/2 watt resistors (which I went ahead and bought anyway) but they didn’t have any high voltage caps...everything was 30V or less. I’m thinking it’s not worth my time to just put diodes and resistors on those snubbers without replacing the caps at the same time. I’ll order some caps online. Bummer!

They will never work with out power. Check for power on both sides of the fuse. If good then find the purple/yellow wire in the molex connector between the back box and play field. Check for voltage on both sides of the connector.

75V going into the fuse holder, 0 coming out...so I replaced the fuse and checked voltage. Got 75V on both sides. Then I fired up a game and it blew the fuse. The tag below the fuse holder says 2.5 amp slo blo, and it looks like the original tag. Molex connector was reading 75V on both sides after I replaced the fuse.

This is correct.

Did you see one of the 3 coils fire or lock on? These are computer controlled coils so the shouldn't have locked on when starting a game, you might have a couple of issues going on at the same time. You should check the diodes on the 3 coils for correct orientation and that they are not shorted. Also check the switches for the 3 coils to make sure that they aren't stuck shut.

I didn’t see any coils fire, nor did they lock on.
All of these coils are new. I know that doesn’t mean anything though. It appears to me that the two hideout diodes are backwards...i guess I have it in my head that the cathode should be going the other direction. The only one I’m not sure about is the one on the kickback, but I think it’s backwards too. Then again, why would they come from the factory installed backwards? Maybe I’m the one who’s backwards!

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Yes they are backwards. Both of those diodes are bad now and need to be replaced. Cathode always faces the power wire. For these 3 coils the power wire is purple/yellow.

This one is correct, so leave it alone.

Replace both hideout coil diodes with new in the correct direction and then replace the power fuse and all 3 coils should work then.

Picking up a project HS on Monday. It will take all day driving to get there and back so fingers crossed its worth the drive

Take lots of pictures. I too am in the throngs of a high speed project. I may have some extra parts when I am done looking forward to your thoughts

Today I am still working on my play field to get it up to standard

Next I begin replacing targets and rebuilding flippers

Seems Marco industries is my best friend and money sinkhole!

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good luck and... Welcome.

Thanks this playfield is not even close to salvageable. Hardtop to the rescue. I try not to order from Marco's as they hate us Canadians and charge us 10x what you pay in shipping. Marco's and Planetary Pinball basically try their best not to deal with the hassles associated with us Canadian customers unfortunately
(But we send you all of our best hockey players. Not cool guys lol)

+1

Yes, Definitely the better way to go.

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-playfields/highspeed-kit/#playfield

You can get one right now!

I am a little late to the High Speed party having only gotten my HS about 3 months ago. I have been fixing and learning about my machine for 3 months and now feel ready to do a few modifications. I have already modified all the lights, changed the instruction cards a little, painted the stoplight school bus yellow and added the freeway sign below the ramp. I have one of the vertical stoplights on the way from RobTune - not sure if I will use it or not. I have looked at the clear ramp with the decal on the bottom and that looks pretty good - Not sure if I want to shut the game down for a while to send the pieces to have it all riveted up somewhere. Anyone have any new modifications to the game. In particular I am wondering whether anyone has changed the playfield glass and what the results were.

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Have you considered going with the red ramp from Freeplay? IMPO, goes better with the overall color scheme of HS.

HS1.pdf

HS2.pdf

HS3.pdf

Rob's stop light is AWESOME!

I think the red is the way to go as well. Just adds a little more personality than the clear.

Love the Vertical stop light. Makes it less cluttery.

Double the price
Double the work
Double the necessary skill set
Idk guys, what's the compelling argument? Hardtops look stellar in person. I've seen a Flash Gordon done and my friend is mid Firepower.

Why would you strip the bottom? The sanding corrects the inserts and is not difficult. You dont clearcoat for a Hardtop (except the inserts if you want). I think you have overestimated the work involved in a Hardtop.

Where do you get the metal bracket for the stop light

No metal bracket needed for vertical stoplight. It screws right on top of the bumper post.

So I was wrong. Its 3x as much

Where can one purchase one of these vertical lights? I like it

Or the translucent red ramp. I dont see it anywhere either. Cheers

I have thought about the red ramp but thought it might be a little overpowering. I think I really need to see the clear one and the red one before I decide. Is there an easy way to install these ramps from Freeplay or is it best to send him the pieces and have him rivet everything together.

I was also wondering if anyone is using the anti-reflective playfield glass and whether it makes a big improvement.

I sent my parts to Freeplay40 and had my ramp back in under a week and I am on the other side of the country. He polishes And cleans all the metal and switches.

Also just bought the clear ramp from Freeplay40 and sent him the ramp for rivets. I sent him the decal from Mr_Tantrum and he installed it before the rivets. Great transaction, quick turnaround from both sellers. As you can see, got the vertical stoplight from RobTune as well.

I think it's already been stated on here before, but I think the clear ramp really opens the top of the playfield up, and the road decal and vertical stoplight just make that whole part of the machine make more sense thematically.

I forgot Mr Tantrum also 3d printed me the bracket that goes under the ramp because my machine didn't come with it. Got the decal for that from him also.

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After snooping through the gallery, I think id be most interested in the following mods for my project. If the designers are following this thread, please contact me.
-ramp decal of the road (mr_tantrum?)
-vertical stoplight (freeplay40?)
-gear shifter shooter rod (?)

Also those helicopter plastics were pretty dope.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1252-robtune-/03631-high-speed-led-stoplight

https://images.pinside.com/3/aa/76/3aa76ba3f963ff975bdcdcaacde688944611c1e3.pdf

I have the original black box light with an angle bracket. I don’t want to drill into the ramp like it was originally. I have a new clear ramp from member freeplay40 One suggestion is to attach to the back board. Freeplay40 has a suggested approach in one of his replies. The picture in this discussion seemed to have a flat metal bracket attached to the black box style light. Thus my original question.

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OK. So I think I am going to get the clear ramp from Freeplay40 - Hopefully still selling them - and have him install everything. I also love the decal on the bottom of the ramp. Sounds like you get this from Mr_Tantrum but I do not know how to find where to order it. Any suggestions?

As usual once i make a decision I rethink everything and come to a different conclusion. Reading further I realize that the clear ramp would expose the flasher in the back left corner of the machine. I see that some people have disconnected that flasher or put some covering over it but I like the flasher. Now thinking the red ramp might work better to hide that flasher a little and maybe diffuse the light when the flasher is on. Is this true?

Also.....The inside of the cabinet walls that are visible on the playfield are painted black and kind of make the playfield a little dark. Has anyone repainted these side walls in either white, or green or yellow or red or any other color that brightens up the playfield a little. I think the back wall would look pretty good painted green.

If your still interested in the decal, go to your inbox and shoot him a PM.

As far as the flashers and the lighting under and around the ramp, I think it depends on how creative you want to get! The decal blocks the glare from the lights under the ramp, although I decided to put some flex head LEDs in a few spots directly under the ramp to keep the light from illuminating the bottom of the decal. The decal also blocks the left flasher, but the right flasher, not so much. (At some point I'm going to buy a flex head flasher to try and direct that left flasher light a little better.) Since my old black ramp was broken, my inelegant solution was to cut a part of that old ramp (the same section as the curve) and stick it back behind that portion of the clear ramp. It's virtually invisible, mostly because it's far away from the player, but you can zoom in on my previous post, and kind of make it out. I can post some photos if you'd like.

I should also mention that the road decal delaminates just along the edge of the entrance of the ramp. The ramp is curved on the bottom and the decal is flat and it has some trouble sticking in that spot. Not a deal breaker for me, once again not visible at all from the players perspective.

Thanks for the ramp input. The part where you cut a pasted part of the black ramp really interests the engineer in me. I kind of like the blue on the interior walls....but I might be wrong.

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So I like the colored walls but when I put the lights on there are a lot of shadows. That probably explains why the interior walls are all black.

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cite="#5661150">Yes they are backwards. Both of those diodes are bad now and need to be replaced. Cathode always faces the power wire. For these 3 coils the power wire is purple/yellow.

This one is correct, so leave it alone.
Replace both hideout coil diodes with new in the correct direction and then replace the power fuse and all 3 coils should work then.

Success!! All coils are firing. I think there may be switch issues. These same coils fire randomly. Not every time, but once in a while. Still, thank you so much for all of the guidance to get this machine back up and running!