(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

By lordloss

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 6,216 posts
  • 469 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by pevo
  • Topic is favorited by 233 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_8210 (resized).jpeg
20240326_195103 (resized).jpg
IMG_8206 (resized).jpeg
IMG_8205 (resized).jpeg
IMG_8204 (resized).jpeg
20240323_114047 (resized).jpg
20240323_114044 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240323_141338781 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240323_141224504 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240323_141349054 (resized).jpg
IMG_6224 (resized).jpeg
PXL_20240322_224012722 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240322_224010527 (resized).jpg
IMG_6217 (resized).jpeg
PXL_20240317_215329874 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240317_215316114 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 6,216 posts in this topic. You are on page 70 of 125.
#3451 3 years ago
Quoted from LGFAutos:

Also when the police light comes on in attract mode, might do when playing to not sure. The relay on the power board clicks until the light stops, but if I earth Q24 the relay don't make any noises. bit weird

I think in attract mode when the beacon turns on the GI lamps also turns off. You are hearing the GI relay turning off which turns the GI back on.

#3452 3 years ago
Quoted from LGFAutos:

Also when the police light comes on in attract mode, might do when playing to not sure. The relay on the power board clicks until the light stops, but if I earth Q24 the relay don't make any noises. bit weird

I think in attract mode when the beacon turns on the GI lamps also turns off. You are hearing the GI relay turning off which turns the GI back on.

Quoted from LGFAutos:

Also just tried SW1 with no sound, tones at all, but when I push SW2 just before it goes back to attract mode I hear a very faint beep. Which gets less if I turn the volume down. Could that be the amp at U9 (MC1458) on the sound board?

SW1/SW2 have nothing to do with the background sound board. They are for the CPU board.

#3453 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

The 2 top flashers (yellow) come on as a pair.
The 2 left flashers (red) come on as a pair.
The 2 right flashers (red) come on as a pair.[quoted image][quoted image]

Thank Grumpy,

I've managed to sort the back box flashers, as that was dirty bulb holders, and the back of the pf flashers, dirty bulb holders again.

Strange why only the top flasher works each side. The weird thing is I have voltage (25.6dcv) at the 2 lower red flashers each side of the bulb, just the same as the top 2 red flashers, and they are new bulbs and tested. All the resistor boards have the same voltage across the long resistor except the one right at the back of the pf.

Any thoughts on why I have no sound Grumpy, just a slight hum which is normal? and just the faint beep when pressing SW2. I have taken all the scanbe's with SIP's on both the cpu and sound board, and yes I tested every SIP before replacing the chips in them. Checked the ribbon cable for continuity and that its the right way round. I have fluctuating -12.31 to -12.56vdc, earth and 5.02vdc at J3 on the sound board. Starting to run out of ideas to check. I think it worked before the upgrading of board parts

#3454 3 years ago
Quoted from LGFAutos:

Strange why only the top flasher works each side.

Are these led bulbs.

Quoted from LGFAutos:

All the resistor boards have the same voltage across the long resistor except the one right at the back of the pf.

This is the resistor for the top play field flashers. Voltage on one side of the resistor indicates a bad resistor.

Quoted from LGFAutos:

Any thoughts on why I have no sound

Have you checked the ground wire for the background sound board? Have you checked the header pins for cracked solder joints?

#3455 3 years ago

I still have yet to ever get my back flashers to do anything post-hardtop. No idea if they worked before. It's low on my list, but definitely annoying.

#3456 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Are these led bulbs.

This is the resistor for the top play field flashers. Voltage on one side of the resistor indicates a bad resistor.

Have you checked the ground wire for the background sound board? Have you checked the header pins for cracked solder joints?

Hi Grumpy,

Ok all Flashers are working now, turns out in the packet of I think it was 89's they had 12v 5w bulbs. that would explain why only one of the bulbs would glow a little.

As for the sound board....Have reflowed the pins, yes there is earth on the black pin 2 wire at J3. i have checked J1 and I have -10vdc at pin 1 and earth at pin 2, coming from the cpu which doesn't change if I turn the volume pot up or down. So checked U5 on the cpu and i have +5v pin 8 and -12v pin 4 for the feeds, but if i'm reading it properly the rest of the inputs are all -voltages, ranging from -10 to -12vdc. It states that one should be +v and one -v's. i just can't find out what that amp should be doing or U4 which feeds it. Or should I check it with a logic probe?

Quick update on the sound board...Put new header pins in to rule out bad connection with the board.

#3457 3 years ago
Quoted from LGFAutos:

As for the sound board....Have reflowed the pins, yes there is earth on the black pin 2 wire at J3. i have checked J1 and I have -10vdc at pin 1 and earth at pin 2, coming from the cpu which doesn't change if I turn the volume pot up or down. So checked U5 on the cpu and i have +5v pin 8 and -12v pin 4 for the feeds, but if i'm reading it properly the rest of the inputs are all -voltages, ranging from -10 to -12vdc. It states that one should be +v and one -v's. i just can't find out what that amp should be doing or U4 which feeds it.

You need to figure out which board is stopping the sound. To do this you have to separate the cpu and sound board from each other. If you remove the jumper cable from 1J-16 and move the volume control cable from 11J-2 onto 1J-16. Now you can run the cpu sound test. If you get the sounds from the cpu, then your sound board U-9 is the problem.

#3458 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

I still have yet to ever get my back flashers to do anything post-hardtop.

Easy fix, check for voltage on both wires of both flasher bulb sockets. If 28-32 dc volts on all 4 wires then test the resistor under the play field. If resistor is good then ground the metal tab of Q-79, do the flashers light up? If so you have a CPU board issue, if not you have a wiring issue on the blue/black wire between the resistor board and the CPU board.

#3459 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Easy fix, check for voltage on both wires of both flasher bulb sockets. If 28-32 dc volts on all 4 wires then test the resistor under the play field. If resistor is good then ground the metal tab of Q-79, do the flashers light up? If so you have a CPU board issue, if not you have a wiring issue on the blue/black wire between the resistor board and the CPU board.

Damnit grumpy, stop being so amazing. I'll give all that a try as soon as I can. I need to pull the right flasher again so I can hack up the plastic to lay it flat... Perfect time to diagnose this too.

#3460 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You need to figure out which board is stopping the sound. To do this you have to separate the cpu and sound board from each other. If you remove the jumper cable from 1J-16 and move the volume control cable from 11J-2 onto 1J-16. Now you can run the cpu sound test. If you get the sounds from the cpu, then your sound board U-9 is the problem.

Thank you very much for helping Grumpy

Ok disconnected the sound board and connected volume pot to CPU as you described. No sound from CPU SW1 at all just the slight hum. I ran through all the sound/music diagnostic tests as well, no sound from them to.

I have tested c26 on the CPU for voltage which was -14.34vdc and the ripple was just 0.02acv. Also checked the grey and grey/green wire from the transformer and I get 21.01ac across the 2 wires when unplugged from the power board.

Quick update Grumpy
Put all the connectors back to where they should be and managed to get hold of a solder iron of 30W's, as all of mine are 60W's and upward. I get a hum from the speakers when I touch the wiper pin (centre leg) with the soldering iron. So this means the volume pot, speakers and U1 amp are ok.
All so tested U9 at pin 4 = -14.36vdc and pin 8 = +5.06vdc on the sound board. Not sure if this helps as you said taking the sound board out would show if it was cpu or sound board.

#3461 3 years ago

Can someone post a picture of the left side flipper button switch wiring. I am fixing a #highspeed game but it had some missing parts. Am concerned I don’t mess up the wiring when I get the new switch in. There are two hanging wires where the switch used to be.

Also have a question on the assorted plastics used on the play field. Noticed how everything is held together with rivets. Is there any guidance out there for replacing. Do I have to bite the bullet and get a rivet press?

Also playfield paint color. Any suggestions on the grayish road color mix?

Thanks to all in advance!

#3462 3 years ago
20200501_164615 (resized).jpg20200501_164615 (resized).jpg
#3463 3 years ago
Quoted from bobkasprzyk:

Also have a question on the assorted plastics used on the play field. Noticed how everything is held together with rivets. Is there any guidance out there for replacing. Do I have to bite the bullet and get a rivet press?

I drilled them out and used nuts (with plastic threads) and bolts to hold the lamp cover in place. The other metal stand offs, I used my soldering iron to heat the metal up to make it easier to remove/install.

#3464 3 years ago

20200501_165527 (resized).jpg20200501_165527 (resized).jpg20200501_165532 (resized).jpg20200501_165532 (resized).jpg

#3465 3 years ago

Thank you!!!! Very clear. I know I am a beginner, what is the disk attached to the wires. Assuming a bridge between the two posts.

#3466 3 years ago
Quoted from bobkasprzyk:

what is the disk attached to the wires

This is a capacitor to suppress sparks on the switch contacts.

#3467 3 years ago
Quoted from LGFAutos:

Ok disconnected the sound board and connected volume pot to CPU as you described. No sound from CPU SW1 at all just the slight hum. I ran through all the sound/music diagnostic tests as well, no sound from them to.

Since you are not getting sound from the cpu and the background sound board I would replace the op amp U-5 on the cpu board. Then retest.

#3468 3 years ago
Quoted from LGFAutos:

Hi Grumpy,
Ok all Flashers are working now, turns out in the packet of I think it was 89's they had 12v 5w bulbs. that would explain why only one of the bulbs would glow a little.
As for the sound board....Have reflowed the pins, yes there is earth on the black pin 2 wire at J3. i have checked J1 and I have -10vdc at pin 1 and earth at pin 2, coming from the cpu which doesn't change if I turn the volume pot up or down. So checked U5 on the cpu and i have +5v pin 8 and -12v pin 4 for the feeds, but if i'm reading it properly the rest of the inputs are all -voltages, ranging from -10 to -12vdc. It states that one should be +v and one -v's. i just can't find out what that amp should be doing or U4 which feeds it. Or should I check it with a logic probe?
Quick update on the sound board...Put new header pins in to rule out bad connection with the board.

I lost sound on my High Speed a couple of months ago which turned out to be issues on both the sound board and CPU.

I ended up replacing every component in the sound section on the CPU (except CVSD chip) and some of the sound board (caps and 2N3904)

Not that expensive and renewed 40 year old components.

The alternative was to invest in an oscilloscope, learn how to use it and figure out what the hell I had to do with it

#3469 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Since you are not getting sound from the cpu and the background sound board I would replace the op amp U-5 on the cpu board. Then retest.

Thank you Grumpy.

I have ordered parts, won't arrive until mid next week. So will keep you posted.

Thank you again for all your help.....you are amazing.

Quoted from Andy_B:

I lost sound on my High Speed a couple of months ago which turned out to be issues on both the sound board and CPU.
I ended up replacing every component in the sound section on the CPU (except CVSD chip) and some of the sound board (caps and 2N3904)
Not that expensive and renewed 40 year old components.
The alternative was to invest in an oscilloscope, learn how to use it and figure out what the hell I had to do with it

I haven't used a oscilloscope in over 20years, might have to buy one and relearn or pull out my collage files lol.

#3470 3 years ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

[quoted image]

you don't need a whole press, pinrestore.com sells just the two parts you need to properly crush a rivet (put in vise) along with a kit of various size rivets and washers too. If you're going to get involved with pinball repair...its a must have at some point..ramp rivets, target switches, lamp covers (like yours) etc.

#3471 3 years ago
Quoted from bobkasprzyk:

Is there any guidance out there for replacing. Do I have to bite the bullet and get a rivet press?

Pop rivets work pretty well for playfield plastics also. I did all the lamp covers on my High Speed that way and the came out very nice.

#3472 3 years ago

Thanks everyone! Appreciate all the advice!

#3473 3 years ago

Again I ask for help. I would like to see a picture of how the following switch is wired. I am attaching the old switch and the new one. There are three open wires at the spot where this switch was. When I got the machine it was already cut. I am assuming that the switch wasn’t working. But I don’t know that. Thanks again!

0D6A5BF1-913F-43A0-B869-EED43FF29054 (resized).jpeg0D6A5BF1-913F-43A0-B869-EED43FF29054 (resized).jpeg2D20181C-1EA6-4C9B-A6FA-FF58E3066137 (resized).jpeg2D20181C-1EA6-4C9B-A6FA-FF58E3066137 (resized).jpeg8A0806A3-EF72-4F36-AA60-3E87FD42864F (resized).jpeg8A0806A3-EF72-4F36-AA60-3E87FD42864F (resized).jpeg9E95FC81-F9CE-4B20-AF48-B55D41DA2198 (resized).jpeg9E95FC81-F9CE-4B20-AF48-B55D41DA2198 (resized).jpeg
#3474 3 years ago

I believe this is the one?

SW51-2 (resized).JPGSW51-2 (resized).JPG
#3475 3 years ago

Thanks. Why does the new switch have 2 prongs on the left side It seems the old one and your pic only has 1. Are they not both used?

#3476 3 years ago
Quoted from bobkasprzyk:

Why does the new switch have 2 prongs on the left side It seems the old one and your pic only has 1. Are they not both used?

Just a guess: One prong will be "on" in the resting position and switch "off" when the switch is pushed, while the other prong will be "off" in the resting position and turn "on" when the switch is pressed. Easy to check with a multimeter continuity test or a battery and bulb, etc.

#3477 3 years ago

Your old switch should also have both lugs (one is NC and one is NO) but the unused one is just cut flush with the switch body.

I replaced all the micros in my game, so I took that switch apart and cut the unused lug flush like the original.

3F764A2F-925C-4EB5-AA9B-878DD31992E1 (resized).jpeg3F764A2F-925C-4EB5-AA9B-878DD31992E1 (resized).jpeg
#3478 3 years ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

so I took that switch apart and cut the unused lug flush like the original.

You don't need to do this, the unused terminal can be used. You don't need the bakelite board anymore, move that connection to the unused (NC) terminal.

#3479 3 years ago

This is very helpful. Thanks again. On closer inspection and with glasses on I do seethe nc and on description on the old and new switches

#3480 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You don't need to do this, the unused terminal can be used. You don't need the bakelite board anymore, move that connection to the unused (NC) terminal.

So for example, in this pic the non-banded end of the diode and the wht/brn wire could be moved to NC lug instead of cutting it off, eliminating the bakelite board? If that's the case, with my current Taxi restoration I'll be getting rid of the board.

Just curious why the factory didn't do that to eliminate the extra step?

SW51-2 (resized).JPGSW51-2 (resized).JPG
#3481 3 years ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

So for example, in this pic the non-banded end of the diode and the wht/brn wire could be moved to NC lug instead of cutting it off, eliminating the bakelite board? If that's the case, with my current Taxi restoration I'll be getting rid of the board.

Yep. I assume the Bakelite board is cheaper then a double throw switch.

#3482 3 years ago

Also you need to have the green wires on the NO terminal.

#3483 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Also you need to have the green wires on the NO terminal.

So green (drive) goes to NO, white (return) goes to NC with non-banded side of the diode, and banded side of diode goes to COM?

#3484 3 years ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

So green (drive) goes to NO, white (return) goes to NC with non-banded side of the diode, and banded side of diode goes to COM?

I made you a pic. Use this for Williams and Sterns switches.

switch diode (resized).PNGswitch diode (resized).PNG
#3485 3 years ago

Thanks!

#3486 3 years ago

Can someone please confirm that the red white wire I'm holding attaches to the terminal that has the yellow wire that I'm holding it close too? The red white wire is coming from the outhole switch. Thank you

IMG_20200507_175642 (resized).jpgIMG_20200507_175642 (resized).jpg
#3487 3 years ago
Quoted from killborn:

Can someone please confirm that the red white wire I'm holding attaches to the terminal that has the yellow wire that I'm holding it close too?

That wire is actually green/red and yes it does connect there or the other side of the yellow wire.

#3488 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

That wire is actually green/red and yes it does connect there or the other side of the yellow wire.

Perfect, thank you!

#3489 3 years ago

Hey guys- I'm happy to be a new member of this club... well I'll say I'm a half member- picked up a project HS with a backbox that looks like this! I do have a backbox coming (thanks Pin-Pilot !!!) but I'm missing the backglass. Anyone have a somewhat ok looking spare backglass that they would sell to me (or donate to the cause?) - I'm not picky at all about how it looks, I'm not looking to flip this, just in the process of making a co-op with some local friends and would love to have this game in the lineup! Thanks everyone!

a1282950fa4ecc9d7613b5ee7da86aafbbe0e2a6 (resized).jpga1282950fa4ecc9d7613b5ee7da86aafbbe0e2a6 (resized).jpg
#3490 3 years ago

Well, shit. I'll take 'why you ALWAYS follow recommended fuse specs and NEVER install one that's wrong in order to play' for 100, Alex. Time to ship this off a second time to be sorted.

IMG_20200507_165317 (resized).jpgIMG_20200507_165317 (resized).jpg

#3491 3 years ago

Does anyone have a ball in play/credit display? I lucked up and found NOS glass for every display except this one, and this one on mine is completely dead.

#3492 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Since you are not getting sound from the cpu and the background sound board I would replace the op amp U-5 on the cpu board. Then retest.

Thank you Grumpy for all the help and guidance in finding the problem in no sound.

I changed both U5 & U4 and got CPU sounds only, so I changed U9 on the sound board as well. So while I had the sound board out I changed the caps, funny thing is I only had a 10uf in 450v for C3. It's a bit on the big side but does the job.

Thank you again.

#3493 3 years ago
Quoted from LGFAutos:

Thank you Grumpy for all the help and guidance in finding the problem in no sound.

Playball!!

#3494 3 years ago

Had to sort out a few small problems (no left hide-out & right pop), found the fault for the left hide-out. Turned out to be a crack in the case from Q26 to Q30. Right pop was a faulty fuse.

I Had a few games, and now when I get to muti-ball I'm only getting 2 balls as the ramp gates isn't acting quick enough to send a ball down the left side. After the balls are released one of the hide-out solenoids is kicking a few times.

I have one of Freeplay40's ramps, and I sent all the ramp parts for him to set up.

Any idea Grumpy

#3495 3 years ago
Quoted from LGFAutos:

Any idea Grumpy

Freeplay40's ramps are nice and smooth making for faster ramp speeds. You may need to use the next lighter plunger spring or adjust the first ramp switch a bit closer. The hideout kicking multiple times is because it thinks there is a ball and a broken switch. Once you sort out getting locks to the left hideout the rest will self correct.

#3496 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Freeplay40's ramps are nice and smooth making for faster ramp speeds. You may need to use the next lighter plunger spring or adjust the first ramp switch a bit closer. The hideout kicking multiple times is because it thinks there is a ball and a broken switch. Once you sort out getting locks to the left hideout the rest will self correct.

Thanks Grumpy

#3497 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Freeplay40's ramps are nice and smooth making for faster ramp speeds. You may need to use the next lighter plunger spring or adjust the first ramp switch a bit closer. The hideout kicking multiple times is because it thinks there is a ball and a broken switch. Once you sort out getting locks to the left hideout the rest will self correct.

Mine behaves like this when the diverter fails to properly divert the ball to the hideout it wants to go into. I continue to have various issues with the switches triggering too late (I guess?) or not at all... Which makes me think they're gapped too far apart. But then on occasion they'll register a ramp shot when I make it halfway or if I completely miss the ramp entrance and smack the side or something..as if maybe they're gapped too closely. Lol. It continues to be a thorn in my side. But my MPU is out for now and headed back to Missouri again so HS is dark in my row for a bit.

Good luck with the ramp. It's the bane of my existence.

#3498 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Mine behaves like this when the diverter fails to properly divert the ball to the hideout it wants to go into. I continue to have various issues with the switches triggering too late (I guess?) or not at all... Which makes me think they're gapped too far apart. But then on occasion they'll register a ramp shot when I make it halfway or if I completely miss the ramp entrance and smack the side or something..as if maybe they're gapped too closely. Lol. It continues to be a thorn in my side. But my MPU is out for now and headed back to Missouri again so HS is dark in my row for a bit.
Good luck with the ramp. It's the bane of my existence.

The problem seems to be that there is a fixed switch gap for the diverter that has to cater for a lot of variation in speed of the ball up the ramp. Mine will sometimes get confused if a slow ball makes it up the ramp.

Also, If I hit the sweet spot and the left diverter operates it will sometimes bounce back down the ramp.

#3499 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Mine behaves like this when the diverter fails to properly divert the ball to the hideout it wants to go into. I continue to have various issues with the switches triggering too late (I guess?) or not at all... Which makes me think they're gapped too far apart. But then on occasion they'll register a ramp shot when I make it halfway or if I completely miss the ramp entrance and smack the side or something..as if maybe they're gapped too closely. Lol. It continues to be a thorn in my side. But my MPU is out for now and headed back to Missouri again so HS is dark in my row for a bit.
Good luck with the ramp. It's the bane of my existence.

I’ve noticed this also. If you hit the ramp too fast the left divertor switch didn’t even see it coming.

#3500 3 years ago

Looking for guidance on color matching of high speed playfield road. Anyone have some thoughts on mix colors used?

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 69.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Pimp
Decorations
$ 36.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
From: $ 2.99
From: $ 3.50
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
$ 65.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
G-Money Mods
Toys/Add-ons
6,300 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Newtown, CT
From: $ 15.00
Cabinet - Other
NO GOUGE PINBALL™
Other
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
$ 109.95
Electronics
PinSound
Electronics
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Newcastle, OK
$ 29.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Daddio's 3D Printed Mods
Toys/Add-ons
$ 120.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
G-Money Mods
Toys/Add-ons
$ 16.00
Boards
Lermods
Boards
$ 53.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
Eproms
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Red Oak, TX
$ 39.00
Cabinet - Other
Arcade Upkeep
Other
$ 70.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
RobTune
Toys/Add-ons
$ 35.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
Eproms
$ 28.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
Interactive
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
$ 299.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 109.99
Lighting - Led
Lighted Pinball Mods
Led
$ 85.00
Cabinet - Other
Pinball Haus
Other
5,650 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Fontana, CA
$ 15.00
Playfield - Other
RobTune
Other
$ 15.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
Sound/Speakers
From: $ 159.95
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PinSound
Sound/Speakers
$ 150.00
Displays
Digipinball Shop
Displays
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
There are 6,216 posts in this topic. You are on page 70 of 125.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-club-dispatch-this-is-504-we-have-a-club-now-over/page/70?hl=monkfe and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.