(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.


By lordloss

6 years ago



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There are 2910 posts in this topic. You are on page 7 of 59.
#301 5 years ago

I decided to just go ahead and follow vid1900 guide and update the flippers on my High Speed with new mounting plates, upgraded mechs. that will have a retention spring return and not the conical spring return which seem to be the culprit with my flipper problem I posted earlier. Have any of you guy upgraded your flippers this way?

I also have a New Ramp ordered, do I have to take the playfield out to replace ramp? Anything complicated, like removing switches, etc. I need to be aware of or is it just straight forward removing all the screws I see around the old one? Thanks

#302 5 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

I decided to just go ahead and follow vid1900 guide and update the flippers on my High Speed with new mounting plates, upgraded mechs. that will have a retention spring return and not the conical spring return which seem to be the culprit with my flipper problem I posted earlier. Have any of you guy upgraded your flippers this way?
I also have a New Ramp ordered, do I have to take the playfield out to replace ramp? Anything complicated, like removing switches, etc. I need to be aware of or is it just straight forward removing all the screws I see around the old one? Thanks

I upgraded mine years ago, simple procedure.

You might have to loosen the backboard on the pf to get the ramp out, it depends on how the plug was done for the switches. On mine I had to, because the plug would not fit through the hole provided.

You do have to remove the stoplight and the two metal ramps connected to the ramp. Back right corner plastics will have to be removed/loosened to get ramp out.

#303 5 years ago

Your other option is to pull the wires out of the connector if you have the pin removal too and then feed them through. A little less of a pain in the backside that way.

#304 5 years ago

Rainy day = a lot of progress. I currently have all 3 wiring harnesses separated and ready for a bath, filthy. Tumbler has been running almost nonstop for 2 days. Waiting on about 5 packages of pinball parts to come in.

P.S. I may want a refund from CPR... the colors are wayyy off! Hahaha

IMG_0577.jpg IMG_0588.jpg
#305 5 years ago

Oh yea! Almost forgot to mention, there is a pre-drilled hole missing on the left ball guide (return). If you notice on the old playfield to the right of "kickback W/ lit" the new CPR is missing that hole for a 6-32 T-nut. Not a big deal at all, I have installed a High Class pinball Funhouse playfield and it was a common problem.

#306 5 years ago
Quoted from CASTHOF:

Rainy day = a lot of progress. I currently have all 3 wiring harnesses separated and ready for a bath, filthy. Tumbler has been running almost nonstop for 2 days. Waiting on about 5 packages of pinball parts to come in.
P.S. I may want a refund from CPR... the colors are wayyy off! Hahaha

IMG_0577.jpg 183 KB

IMG_0588.jpg 339 KB

Your game is going to be so bright it'll be scary.

#307 5 years ago
Quoted from CASTHOF:

P.S. I may want a refund from CPR... the colors are wayyy off! Hahaha

Not sure if the picture is hiding major wear, but many of us would do swaps to get something the condition of your old playfiled...

The new one is just insane.

#308 5 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

I decided to just go ahead and follow vid1900 guide and update the flippers on my High Speed with new mounting plates, upgraded mechs. that will have a retention spring return and not the conical spring return which seem to be the culprit with my flipper problem I posted earlier. Have any of you guy upgraded your flippers this way?

I'm going to do the same thing. Problem is, finding somewhere online that'll ship both the full L and R flipper kits as well as an R only kit for the upper flipper. Well, somewhere online that doesn't charge an arm and a leg to ship to Australia.

I'm doing an order from Bestofpinball for a playfield protector, so maybe it won't cost much more if I order the rebuild kit as well.

Quoted from Mocean:

Not sure if the picture is hiding major wear, but many of us would do swaps to get something the condition of your old playfiled...
The new one is just insane.

I was thinking exactly the same thing. Would kill for something like that!

#309 5 years ago
Quoted from Shaneus:

I'm going to do the same thing. Problem is, finding somewhere online that'll ship both the full L and R flipper kits as well as an R only kit for the upper flipper. Well, somewhere online that doesn't charge an arm and a leg to ship to Australia.
I'm doing an order from Bestofpinball for a playfield protector, so maybe it won't cost much more if I order the rebuild kit as well.

I was thinking exactly the same thing. Would kill for something like that!

Pinball life has this option.

#310 5 years ago
Quoted from Mocean:

Not sure if the picture is hiding major wear, but many of us would do swaps to get something the condition of your old playfiled...
The new one is just insane.

Valid point, I definitely agree, but the price to restore the old one would definitely be just as much or more than a new repro. That's when you have the right person doing it of course. I've seen clearcoat work where they shoot over mylar

#311 5 years ago
Quoted from Shaneus:

Problem is, finding somewhere online that'll ship both the full L and R flipper kits as well as an R only kit for the upper flipper. Well, somewhere online that doesn't charge an arm and a leg to ship to Australia.

Pinballife, I got a full kit and a half kit for the right side only, not sure on overseas shipping cost. Also don't forget to get different EOS switches, the ones in the kit are for low voltage, get the high voltage ones, get those rubber grommets to for the new base plate. Gotta make sure you have everything you need and them some in one order.

#312 5 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

Pinballife, I got a full kit and a half kit for the right side only, not sure on overseas shipping cost. Also don't forget to get different EOS switches, the ones in the kit are for low voltage, get the high voltage ones, get those rubber grommets to for the new base plate. Gotta make sure you have everything you need and them some in one order.

Thanks for the tip. I am going to place an order for the rebuild kits this weekend and wasn't sure if they needed anything else.

#313 5 years ago

Any way to tell if your switches are low voltage or high voltage? I found some new switches in my stash, but I don't recall what type they are...

#314 5 years ago
Quoted from Mocean:

Any way to tell if your switches are low voltage or high voltage? I found some new switches in my stash, but I don't recall what type they are...

I think the easiest way to tell is to just look at the contacts. The tungsten (silver looking) ones are the high voltage/current switches and the gold-plated ones are for low voltage. Also, low voltage EOS switches are typically normally open.

See my picture below, normally open WPC fliptronic switch on the left, normally closed non-fliptronic on the right.

IMG-20140222-00059.jpg

#315 5 years ago

hmmm, we may get by with just replacing the bracket instead of new mounting plates, I found these at Marco http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-9375 , its to late for me as I have 3 new mounting plates coming, but hopefully save someone some cash if they don't need the mounting plates. Has anyone reversed the coils to get the lugs from the coil stops? I'am thinking of doing it but will need some wire more wire, the ones coming off coil to the eos switch, there is not enough there. What gauge wire should I get for this application?

#316 5 years ago

If I was to buy this and part it out, would it be worth it? I mainly need the cab and the transformer.

#317 5 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

If I was to buy this and part it out, would it be worth it? I mainly need the cab and the transformer.
minneapolis.craigslist.org link

Yes, a good PF fully populated will go for $400 on ebay. $550 might even be a starting price.
-mof

#318 5 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Yes, a good PF fully populated will go for $400 on ebay. $550 might even be a starting price.
-mof

Is there any good way to ship a popluated playfield?

#319 5 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

Is there any good way to ship a popluated playfield?

I don't know those details. I've never bought/sold a populated PF, but I have a friend who bought one once.
-mof

#320 5 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

Is there any good way to ship a popluated playfield?

Wrap it one of those cheap moving blankets to cushion all the sharp edges, tape it up and put it in a big enough box to surround it with peanuts. That's the way one of mine came. Arrived in perfect shape.

#321 5 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

Pinball life has this option.

Yeah, I'm aware... but the shipping price is atrocious. Base cost is $40US. So even if I just want a switch... $40 shipping.
Wound up ordering a right kit from pinball...something.de when I was getting my playfield protector. Thanks anyway though!

#322 5 years ago

A friend of mine is looking for a High Speed and is willing to pay a decent amount for one. I can't let mine go (trying to build a mid-80's Williams set), but PM me if anyone in the NE has one they'd consider selling. Thanks!

-Brendan

#323 5 years ago

I heard that a bike box is good for shipping a populated pf. I know finding one won't be easy. Personally, I would remove the plastics and other fragile parts and wrap in a separate box. Put a thin board over the top side and then wrap with blankets and/or bubble wrap.

#324 5 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

If I was to buy this and part it out, would it be worth it? I mainly need the cab and the transformer.
minneapolis.craigslist.org link

You get that. I'm interested in the pf for my HS, depending on how good it is.

#325 5 years ago

I have a buddy who needs a stoplight box

Quoted from lordloss:

If I was to buy this and part it out, would it be worth it? I mainly need the cab and the transformer.
minneapolis.craigslist.org link

#326 5 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

I have a buddy who needs a stoplight box

+1. I need one too...

#327 5 years ago

I'll go take pictures tonight and post what I find.

#328 5 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

I'll go take pictures tonight and post what I find.

You should buy it. I'll buy your "divertor" ramp if it's not broken. I'm sure many others would too. I also need plastics. Lots of them, but they don't need to be new.

#329 5 years ago

I have sort of an odd question. Would a populated f-14 playfield fit into a HS cabinet body? I know the head is different, but I was hoping someone could confirm that the body is the same.

#330 5 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

You get that. I'm interested in the pf for my HS, depending on how good it is.

The playfield is an awesome shape, but with two catches: http://imgur.com/oKrB0cD,ndUKhSI,MKczYGM,LXwRKVf,cuXWs3d,uQiqawL,qK7EMA5,Sf8WtXF,FSXvfFz,dPIosnd,lUjzgz4,mBE8UW5,5Q9UHGT,qdf0Wq3,eul1MYU,QMFlubN,swgH5is,LQBfUOq,ezlnZ1g,qC3yPMV,3g8bMIT,AoErtvO,V28bnYL,U6SPbe8,05BB1ml,DPc8MQ7,pSmsqte,BcwkrTp#5

somehow there is a large divot/chunk missing from the playfield a the bottom of the pf and the gray color of the street is faded a bit. Otherwise amazing shape under mylar

#331 5 years ago

If anyone wants to make an offer on the pf let me know as it will help me decide if I should buy the pin or not

#332 5 years ago

let me check the pics

#333 5 years ago

Just a quick update. Tumbling the coil brackets in walnut media removes the brass plating, I could care less but some of you might. All my coil wrappers came in from PPS, can't be more satisfied, very adhesive, perfect size.

I don't know how many of you are reusing or bought new ground wire from pinrestore, the 18g ground wire they sell is awesome, solder flows perfect on it, and it very maneuverable.

IMG_0596.jpg IMG_0600.jpg
#334 5 years ago
Quoted from CASTHOF:

All my coil wrappers came in from PPS

What website is PPS? I wanna order some. Your progress is coming along very nicely! I can't wait to see the pic's. when you're done!

#335 5 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

What website is PPS? I wanna order some. Your progress is coming along very nicely! I can't wait to see the pic's. when you're done!

http://www.planetarypinball.com/

It's a bear to find all the ones you need. Just do a search for the coil you need "AE 23 800" something really generic along those lines and you will find the wrappers. Search "-01" or "-03" for the smaller labels.

#336 5 years ago

I don't know how many of you are reusing or bought new ground wire from pinrestore, the 18g ground wire they sell is awesome, solder flows perfect on it, and it very maneuverable

damn I forgot all about that thanks for the reminder also i was wondering what about the guide wires that are on the play field..aren't they just hammered in? how are you putting those in? drilling a pilot hole first?

#337 5 years ago

Now that I'm thinking about it would be nice if someone made a list of all the incidentals like T nuts, light sockets how many and type, and any thing else you might think of .

#338 5 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

damn I forgot all about that thanks for the reminder also i was wondering what about the guide wires that are on the play field..aren't they just hammered in? how are you putting those in? drilling a pilot hole first?

I used a flat head screw driver and my hand as a fulcrum, as far as putting in the new ones I have to wait until I get all the ground wire stapled in place. I am going to do one of the wire guides at the top of the playfield as a guinea pig without making a pilot hole. I didn't have to make pilot holes for my Funhouse playfield. If I end up having to make a pilot hole I will report back on the size, you just really run the risk of making it too big and the guide coming out over time.

#339 5 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

Now that I'm thinking about it would be nice if someone made a list of all the incidentals like T nuts, light sockets how many and type, and any thing else you might think of .

Well now that you mention it.....

1. 25 "staple" light sockets in the game
2. 26 T-nuts all size 6-32
3. I bought 15' of ground wire and will have plenty to spair
4. Coil wrappers from PPS

(3) FL 23/600-30/2600 50V Coil wrapper - original style - WMS# 16-8799-6
Item # PPA-CW-FL-23-600-30-2600-50V
(8) AE-23-800 Coil wrapper - original style - WMS# 16-8943-1
Item # PPA-CW-AE-23-800
(1) AL-23-800 Coil wrapper - original style - WMS# 16-8943-2
Item # PPA-CW-AL-23-800
(3) AE-24-900 Coil wrapper - original style - WMS# 16-8943-4
Item # PPA-CW-AE-24-900
(2) -02 Coil wrapper - original style - WMS# 16-8944-02W
Item # PPA-CW--02W
(8) -03 Coil wrapper - original style - WMS# 16-8944-03W
Item # PPA-CW--03W
(3) -01 Coil wrapper - original style - WMS# 16-8944-01W
Item # PPA-CW--01W

#340 5 years ago
Quoted from CASTHOF:

Well now that you mention it.....
1. 25 "staple" light sockets in the game
2. 26 T-nuts all size 6-32
3. I bought 15' of ground wire and will have plenty to spair
4. Coil wrappers from PPS
(3) FL 23/600-30/2600 50V Coil wrapper - original style - WMS# 16-8799-6
Item # PPA-CW-FL-23-600-30-2600-50V
(8) AE-23-800 Coil wrapper - original style - WMS# 16-8943-1
Item # PPA-CW-AE-23-800
(1) AL-23-800 Coil wrapper - original style - WMS# 16-8943-2
Item # PPA-CW-AL-23-800
(3) AE-24-900 Coil wrapper - original style - WMS# 16-8943-4
Item # PPA-CW-AE-24-900
(2) -02 Coil wrapper - original style - WMS# 16-8944-02W
Item # PPA-CW--02W
(8) -03 Coil wrapper - original style - WMS# 16-8944-03W
Item # PPA-CW--03W
(3) -01 Coil wrapper - original style - WMS# 16-8944-01W
Item # PPA-CW--01W

Oh Thanks you the Man! I stared with cleaning and restoring inside of the cab first. so keep us posted ,the more info the better

#341 5 years ago

That's a good feeling.

IMG_0593.jpg IMG_0609.jpg
#342 5 years ago

I need help on replacing the ramp? I see a bunch of holes on the new ramp where rivets go, the flap is there riveted but whats my option here? I DO NOT have a rivet press, and I do need to get the old rivets off. What did you guys do? How to remove the rivets off the old to gain access to the support hardware for new ramp. If screws, what size? I counted 7 holes on the new ramp. where rivets are on the new ramp. Thanks guys

#343 5 years ago

Iam going to Harbor freight and get the tools I need to do the job right. http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/hand-riveters.html If anyone has any tips or tricks let me know.

#344 5 years ago

I bought a rivet press just for pins, and it comes in handy. I had to use it this evening, in fact, to get one of the guards put on a new Cyclone ramp.

#345 5 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

Iam going to Harbor freight and get the tools I need to do the job right. http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/hand-riveters.html If anyone has any tips or tricks let me know.

I don't think those will work....but I could be wrong.

#346 5 years ago

So much attention to details! Bravo! There is one part you’ll badly need once restoration is complete, and which I'm pretty sure you haven’t sourced yet (cause it just doesn’t exist): The yellow ”Inspected by <Your Name here>“ sticker!

P.S.: I'm the guy who drew the artwork for your new playfield. Sorry for putting my name in the left outlane, but I'd spent so many hours on this, I just couldn't resist.

#347 5 years ago
Quoted from Wookbert:

So much attention to detail! Bravo! There is one part you’ll badly need once restoration is complete, and which I'm pretty sure you haven’t sourced yet (cause it just doesn’t exists): The yellow ”Inspected by <Your Name here>“ sticker!
P.S.: I'm the guy who drew the artwork for your new playfield. Sorry for putting my name in the left outlane, but I'd spent so many hours on this, I just couldn't resist.

You do great work. I'd like to someday see how that's done, I know it takes hundreds of hours of computer work but I like that kind of stuff.

#348 5 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

You do great work. I'd like to someday see how that's done, I know it takes hundreds of hours of computer work but I like that kind of stuff.

It's basically layer by layer. You start with all the black contours and then „fill“ those with the colors. The problem though is that filling doesn't work like the paint bucket tool in Photoshop, as a) the paths aren’t necessarily closed and b) the color need to underlap the black contours, so in case the color layer gets slightly misregistered in printing (shifted) that you don't immediately see a white gap.

And then there is a lot of guess work involved, as the scanned source playfield is often already printed with huge misregistrations. In case of the High Speed I had to contact Steve Ritchie (the lead designer) in order to figure out how to get in contact with Mark Sprenger, who back in 1985 drew the original High Speed PF artwork and who luckily answered me quite some few questions on certain details.

I've posted some images of the Illustrator artwork here: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/anyone-know-when-cpr-will-be-finishing-high-speed-playfield#post-952977

Attached is what this looks like as wireframe in Illustrator (you gotta zoom in, 180,000 vector points in total). But while this might look impressive, one shouldn’t forget that Mark Sprenger did this back in 1985 all by hand, which I think is much harder.

HS-Playfield-Preview-Final-Wire300.png
Bildschirmfoto 2014-02-28 um 16.31.16.pngBildschirmfoto 2014-02-28 um 16.30.37.pngBildschirmfoto 2014-02-28 um 16.30.04.png

#349 5 years ago
Quoted from CASTHOF:

Well now that you mention it.....
1. 25 "staple" light sockets in the game
2. 26 T-nuts all size 6-32
3. I bought 15' of ground wire and will have plenty to spair
4. Coil wrappers from PPS
(3) FL 23/600-30/2600 50V Coil wrapper - original style - WMS# 16-8799-6
Item # PPA-CW-FL-23-600-30-2600-50V
(8) AE-23-800 Coil wrapper - original style - WMS# 16-8943-1
Item # PPA-CW-AE-23-800
(1) AL-23-800 Coil wrapper - original style - WMS# 16-8943-2
Item # PPA-CW-AL-23-800
(3) AE-24-900 Coil wrapper - original style - WMS# 16-8943-4
Item # PPA-CW-AE-24-900
(2) -02 Coil wrapper - original style - WMS# 16-8944-02W
Item # PPA-CW--02W
(8) -03 Coil wrapper - original style - WMS# 16-8944-03W
Item # PPA-CW--03W
(3) -01 Coil wrapper - original style - WMS# 16-8944-01W
Item # PPA-CW--01W

Thanks for putting up the part numbers for the coil wrappers. I didn't even know these were available until seeing the post. I put in my order already. I'm in the middle of a Flash Gordon swap, so I have not had a chance the study the HS pf all that much. It will be my first Wms swap.

For the wire form guides, I know early Ballys are 3/32 in. All of the CPR Bally repros I have had to drill the pilot hole the next size smaller than the wire form size. Some of the wire forms have a pointy nail type shank that helps them bite into the wood and stay in well. The only issue I have had with the wire forms is that if you have to hammer them in hard, they will splinter the under side of the pf. If a wire form seems like it is a little loose, I had some Loctite, just a few drops to help hold.

#350 5 years ago
Quoted from Wookbert:

It's basically layer by layer. You start with all the black contours and then „fill“ those with the colors. The problem though is that filling doesn't work like the paint bucket tool in Photoshop, as a) the paths aren’t necessarily closed and b) the color need to underlap the black contours, so in case the color layer gets slightly misregistered in printing (shifted) that you don't immediately see a white gap.
And then there is a lot of guess work involved, as the scanned source playfield is often already printed with huge misregistrations. In case of the High Speed I had to contact Steve Ritchie (the lead designer) in order to figure out how to get in contact with Mark Sprenger, who back in 1985 drew the original High Speed PF artwork and who luckily answered me quite some few questions on certain details.
I've posted some images of the Illustrator artwork here: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/anyone-know-when-cpr-will-be-finishing-high-speed-playfield#post-952977
Attached is what this looks like as wireframe in Illustrator (you gotta zoom in, 180,000 vector points in total). But while this might look impressive, one shouldn’t forget that Mark Sprenger did this back in 1985 all by hand, which I think is much harder.

HS-Playfield-Preview-Final-Wire3... 1.8 MB

Bildschirmfoto 2014-02-28 um 16.... 1.3 MB

Bildschirmfoto 2014-02-28 um 16.... 1.3 MB

Bildschirmfoto 2014-02-28 um 16.... 1.4 MB

Thanks for taking the time to explain and show some of it. I've only used PhotoShop for the artwork on my Bonneville Racing dvd boxes. Registering 52 layers for one box design is tough but mostly it's just cutting, pasting and resizing, not anywhere near as difficult as Illustrator but I would still have about 30 hours into it. 180,000 vector points blows my mind.

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