Yeah, That was me that worked with Mr Tantrum on this project...if you want to do it "right" , yes you'll have to remove the rivets. But if you want to do it sort of half assed, you could just cut it short of the switch area as the decal seam is in the center of the two switches, and the same on the other side of the switch to the end of the ramp. The one GI light under the ramp was driving me nuts, this decal blocks it nicely.

Finally got my new traffic light installed and the highway sign mod. I think I'm gonna need that red ramp to finish it off. Looking good so far tho!

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"Do It Right" is my first name. I have rivet skills so that is not a problem, just an extra step I guess. I have a red ramp, I wonder how good it will look on the Red translucent ramp?

Funny, "hold my beer and watch this shit" is mine

Yea, "Do It Right" is what I want it to be but "Hold my beer and watch this shit" is probably a better match. LOL

Lamp matrix is pissing me off, so I'm starting on these frustrating MFs. God help me.
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Lol, three down....shoot me.

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Looking nice!

Lmao. I flipped this thing around a bunch of times before getting it right. These mount differently than the lower targets and I didn't realize it. Whoops.
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Three more down. There are so many shavings in my cab!
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Ayyyyyy

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Looking good!!

I'm not sure they look good enough to justify how much of a pain in the ass they were to install, but I like em. I'm dreading doing F-14, that will be god-awful. I expect to be MUCH more thrilled with that one, simply because the stock targets are fuggo. Since I didn't change any colors (obviously, I wouldn't have) the impact isn't quite as strong. My old blades were actually pretty nice, too. No chips or anything like that. Whatever, into the parts bin they go

What ever you bumped into under the play field has fixed your lamp matrix problem.

Sadly not

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D'oh!

Better hurry and figure out those lights...you new ramp will be there Saturday!

Oh, hell!

What color ramp did you get?

I really liked the red, but I ended up buying clear. Wife said she liked that one better... Lol

I like the red a lot

I think the red is the way to go.

No ramp today. BOO TO YOU, USPS!

Oh well, Monday.

At least it's in the right state!

Close, but not quite! Ironically they ship everything straight to KCMO prior to sending it BACK to Kansas to bring it here. Silly kids.

Not your fault though, USPS just wants to delay my enjoyment!

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I just designed some new flipper toppers for my Getaway, and thought they would also go well with High Speed. These are 3D printed in high resolution using quality filaments, and they come with an adhesive backing ready to install. Center line can be done in white or yellow.

Current price is $15 including US shipping. If interested in purchasing, please PM me.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-ampamp-high-speed-3d-flipper-toppers#post-5605312

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Got some stuffs today. Not actually installed yet, just placed in the machine for test fit. Still need to route wires through (and reconnect the connector) and affix the stoplight to the back wall. Then it's back to frickin matrix debugging :'(

The clear ramp looks great!

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Big improvement over the OEM black for sure.

100% agree. Might need to play around with the bulbs behind it, idk.

I put a couple cheap red LED's under my clear ramp.

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Yeah I might need to go digging around to see what I have in the bulb box. I think those 2smd warm bulbs are going to be a bit much.

I need to go install bulbs on my rollovers, too. Wish I had done that before putting the PF back in the cab...

Man. Not a good night for me. I scuffed the ramp trying to wrestle it in to place after getting the wires crammed through the slot. Then I scuffed the hardtop. And after finally getting it installed..ish.. it looks really crooked. Occasionally the ball will smack into the glass if I hit it particularly hard off the top flipper. Could be that I just need to get the entry flap down tighter, idk.

I installed a couple of fire bulbs under the ramp. Not sure if they're keepers or not, but it's interesting. My machine is definitely playing like crap right now, (upper left and right) pops suddenly not quite right again and I'm not sure the diverter is working at all, although I made sure it had ample space to operate cleanly... idk.

Calling it a night on this damn thing.

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Noticed this while dinking around earlier. Is this plastic supposed to be raised up like this, with this big gap? Seems like it would make a lot more sense to be like the left side, with holes drilled through for the flasher (which I can't get to frickin work anyway).. Right?

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Hi All,

Does anybody know the part number for these metal post at the back which have the 5" rubbers around them please..

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Here ya go...PPS has them for $2.50
02-3180

Bleh, I see why that plastic has the metal risers. For one, you wouldn't see any of the art with the original ramp, two it would probably be too dark, and three it has to clear that spinner assembly. I'm thinking about cutting the plastic according to the purple cut line (or thereabout) and leaving the metal spacer on the bottom piece but removing it from the two screws on the top piece. Thoughts? Has anyone else with a clear ramp tackled this issue?

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Thank you Pin-Pilot

Ok had a bad hair day last night......new I should of downed tools around 2am, but I didn't I was getting excited. I was nearly at turn on point and testing power supply......oh boy. 99% had been done, bullet proofing the the game, replaced all the crap CPU sockets, did the lamp matrix upgrade..taking out the 27ohm resistors. Sorted out the mess some one had made when fitting the NVram.

Anyway I disconnected all bar 1J1 and 1j2 on the X-Pin psb and tested..all test points were ok. Plugged all plugs back into the psb and turned on again......Nothing happened cpu did not boot up, just all the gi's lite up....

So unplugged the psb and started to test the cpu supply connections 3J5 & 3J6 (this is where I should of went to bed). with the power on. While testing I managed to catch 2 pins at the same time on 3J6, 4 seconds later this chip at Q2 on the X-Pin psb lite up and went poof. So repinned the old Williams psb and put that in, tested and as I was reconnecting all the sockets I noticed on the socket for 3J6 the key plug had been pushed out the back (what a dick) so replugged properly and turned on watching very carefully if anything else might light up and go bang.

The game started and went into attract mode "Sorted" 0 on the 7segment diagnostic panel, pushed SW2 and it showed a 8 then went back to 0.

I need to test the playfield as not much life on there, but this could be connections. I haven't look yet. Will keep you posted....

So can some one please tell me if putting 3J6 plug in one place to the right will cause any problems on the cpu. I have looked at the pinout and don't think so, but any advise would be great.

Also does anybody know what chip this is (Q2) on the X-Pin psb, is it the same as Q1

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Any help greatly appreciated...

Ok have a update....

No sound just a hum from the speakers...
Do I have these plugs in the right places, as it states that at J2 on the sound board it has red, black, n/used and shield. Which is the same as 1J16 on the cpu. I thought the wire from the volume went to s/b J2 and J1 from s/b went to 1J16 on the cpu?

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I'm now down to 2 displays that work (need to work on the wife for some LED ones lol) a upper one and one lower one. Have have swapped them to make sure it wasn't the board. The weird thing is the displays that are working in test mode look good, but like when going through the switch matrix and testing each switch I have ghosting (look at the pics) is that just they are failing?

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The only switches that don't work when testing the switch matrix are the flipper and engine revving ones(flipper buttons).

No flippers, left hideout and all the pops, but 2 of the pops might kick just when pushing the switch down. Not all the time. Rebuilt flippers and pops following Vid's guide using all new parts. Also all the coils have been renewed, apart from the flippers the rest were as stated in the manual as some french firm just used what they had around.
Test on the coils shows the only coils that don't work is:
Left hideout. (this didn't work when I picked the game up)
flippers (not sure if it test these as my display is shite at the mo)
I have 72.36v at flipper coils and the 2 hideout coils, the rest all have 27.23v's

lamp test went well apart from the lower left red flasher works by hideout and right upper red flasher by hideout work. both the ones behind the ramp didn't either.

Any help where to test/look would be great please

Thank you

Ok quick update...

Told you I should have gone to bed....

when upgrading all the tip122 for tip102 and changing all the 2N4401 for new ones. I took out Q67 and didn't put a new one back (my bad).

So I now have flippers. So I had a game and found that left hideout still don't kick the ball out and the eject hole don't kick out to. Still no pops to.

Update 02, tested both under p/f relays...both sides have 25dcv and 69dcv, also if I manually activate the relays the left activates the coil like the right side.

Update 03. removed the volume pot and tested....tested = across the 2 ends which was 5.37Kohms and just droped 0.01kohm when turning the knob, and across either of the ends and the wiper went from 0.01k to 5.36kohms. Also the hum gets slightly louder if I turn the volume up, which I think means the amp is ok (read that while trying to find answers on the net). so all good here.

Update 04, Tested U9 MC1458 chip at pins 4 = -14.68vdc and pin 8 = 5.06vdc with the earth lead on the back plate. According to wayout440 helpping some one else pin 8 is out, it should be 12vdc. Is this bad? I have 1468vdc and -14.68vdc at plug J3

Update 05, Pop's working...turns out the new switches needed to be cleaned with some fine wet n dry before they register.....really I thought that was the point of replacing them....

I've had a couple of people inquire/order my roadway ramp decals for the clear version of the main HS ramp who have asked me about the switch cover bracket. Although not pictured in the manual, I believe the part is #01-8227 Switch Cover Bracket listed on page 38.

Unfortunately, I've not been able to locate the part from my usual suppliers, so I've designed a 3D printed version that I will offer to HS owners for $18 shipped (bare bracket) or $25 shipped with my decal installed (to order decal by itself is $10). I would print in any color, but probably best options would be black or silver.

Also, it would be helpful if someone could please let me know what size screws are utilized to mount it, so buyers know what they need (I'm assuming that if their games are missing the bracket then they are probably also missing the two screws.

Please PM me if interested in purchasing either or both.
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I used #6-32 hard drive screws because my screws were mismatched and liked like sh1t.

I imagine any #6-32 button cap screw approx 1/8"-1/4" from a hardware store would work.

KSUWildcatFan you ever get your lamp matrix figured out?

Tbh I haven't spent any time at all trying. I played it a bit but I haven't spent a lot of time on pinball at all lately. I really do need to get that figured out; it's super gd annoying.

I'm still fighting various intermittent ramp issues too--switches not registering/triggering the diverter or triggering too late to divert the ball, switches somehow triggering with a partial ramp shot (IE didn't make it to the switch) or with a hard hit to the ramp itself, etc. Usually it just results in having to make the shot a second time (in the event that the miss happens during red light running, etc) but it's super annoying when it advances the light incorrectly. Makes the rest of the score feel hollow/underserved. It's especially confusing how the switches can seem both too sensitive and not sensitive enough.. Blah.

Tbh I'm in over my head a bit when it comes to any real debugging of issues. If a monkey couldn't eventually figure it out by randomly adjusting random things, I probably couldn't, either.

Thanks for the response. Something like these #6 panheads with lock washers?

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Can't see why those wouldn't work.

Can some one please tell me if the left and right lower red lights come on when the upper left and right lights do, as mine don't. When I earth Q17 just the upper left one comes on. Same with the right when I earth Q8.

Also when the police light comes on in attract mode, might do when playing to not sure. The relay on the power board clicks until the light stops, but if I earth Q24 the relay don't make any noises. bit weird

Any help greatly appreciated.

Also just tried SW1 with no sound, tones at all, but when I push SW2 just before it goes back to attract mode I hear a very faint beep. Which gets less if I turn the volume down. Could that be the amp at U9 (MC1458) on the sound board?

Ok changed U9 with a MC1458P the only change was I lost the faint beep when testing SW2.....still no sounds at all.

Help please

The 2 top flashers (yellow) come on as a pair.
The 2 left flashers (red) come on as a pair.
The 2 right flashers (red) come on as a pair.

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