(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.


By lordloss

6 years ago



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There are 3613 posts in this topic. You are on page 68 of 73.
#3351 51 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Am I alone in thinking that adjusting the ramp switches is super annoying? I think I finally got them *okay*. Still not perfect. Blah

Definitely not the easiest. When ever I assemble a High Speed ramp, I make sure to clean and adjust the switches before shipping them out.

#3352 51 days ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Definitely not the easiest. When ever I assemble a High Speed ramp, I make sure to clean and adjust the switches before shipping them out.

I thank you for that, I have been loving my clear ramp!!

#3353 51 days ago

weird issue, is there a way to turn the volume up on voice sounds mine seem really quiet compared to background music?

#3354 50 days ago

Hi all,

Some help needed please....

On the P/Supply board, socket 3J6 Logic power, the 15pin one I have a extra wire on pin 14. Which in the manual states is not used. This wire goes to the playfield socket pictured. the wire is top of the socket as you look at the picture in the middle, on the left next to it is the hole without a wire. Look at the pics. ( yes I know, I only had a 14pin socket and 3J6 is 15)

I noticed this when I was running through checking all the wiring in the back box after changing all the sockets for all the boards.

Should it be there, if so whats it for?

Thank you for any help..

IMG_4562 (resized).jpegIMG_4563 (resized).jpegIMG_4564 (resized).jpegIMG_4565 (resized).jpeg
#3355 50 days ago
Quoted from LGFAutos:

Hi all,
Some help needed please....
On the P/Supply board, socket 3J6 Logic power, the 15pin one I have a extra wire on pin 14. Which in the manual states is not used. This wire goes to the playfield socket pictured. the wire is top of the socket as you look at the picture in the middle, on the left next to it is the hole without a wire. Look at the pics. ( yes I know, I only had a 14pin socket and 3J6 is 15)
I noticed this when I was running through checking all the wiring in the back box after changing all the sockets for all the boards.
Should it be there, if so whats it for?
Thank you for any help..[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

There is no wire on the 3J6 as you suspect and the Schematic depicts. Here is a pic for you.

IMG_5739 (resized).jpg
#3356 50 days ago

Thank you Pin-Pilot

At least I know now its a typo error, and not something some French pinball shop has put there to bypass a fault they couldn't be bothered to find.

#3357 49 days ago

Finally dropped a decent game so I figured I'd finish dialing in the pops (replaced the spoon on my 'green' pop and finally got the stupid skirt pin to work well, then readjusted the 'red' pop to get rid of the dead spot up top) and brighten them up a bit so the white bulbs on bottom actually illuminated somewhat.

Then I decided I'd tackle my LED issue. Debugging the row and column plugs on my board, I'm getting a hell of a lot of bulbs (should be 8), consistently lit (thus ruling out board issues I believe) on the row plug. Columns test perfectly.

I'm honestly a bit baffled on where to even begin testing on my playfield to pinpoint issue(s). Any suggestions?
IMG_20200407_124621 (resized).jpgIMG_20200407_183403 (resized).jpgIMG_20200407_184411 (resized).jpg

I suppose once this is resolved I should figure out why my beacon won't spin (it does light) as well. Bleh. At least I'm closing in on the finish line, I guess..

#3358 48 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Finally dropped a decent game so I figured I'd finish dialing in the pops (replaced the spoon on my 'green' pop and finally got the stupid skirt pin to work well, then readjusted the 'red' pop to get rid of the dead spot up top) and brighten them up a bit so the white bulbs on bottom actually illuminated somewhat.
Then I decided I'd tackle my LED issue. Debugging the row and column plugs on my board, I'm getting a hell of a lot of bulbs (should be 8), consistently lit (thus ruling out board issues I believe) on the row plug. Columns test perfectly.
I'm honestly a bit baffled on where to even begin testing on my playfield to pinpoint issue(s). Any suggestions?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I suppose once this is resolved I should figure out why my beacon won't spin (it does light) as well. Bleh. At least I'm closing in on the finish line, I guess..

Does the beacon make a sound?

#3359 48 days ago
Quoted from rwarren28806:

Does the beacon make a sound?

As in, clicking noises?

#3360 48 days ago

I would pull the beacon motor apart to clean and re-lube.

#3361 47 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

As in, clicking noises?

Loud(ish) humming.. Mine does that before it finally does rotate if I haven't played for awhile.

#3362 47 days ago
Quoted from rwarren28806:

Loud(ish) humming.. Mine does that before it finally does rotate if I haven't played for awhile.

I can't remember, but I feel like it's turned a LITTLE since I've owned it. Probably correct as posted above that it just needs disassembled, cleaned, and re-lubed. At any rate, it's cheap to try and worst case scenario I can just replace it for $30 and call it a day.

I've got more tuning ahead than I thought, also, I guess. Playing this morning I had some inaccurate ramp registers and then a ramp miss altogether (resulting in two balls in the right hideout trying to start multiball). Looks like I'll be pulling that stupid ramp all the way out to adjust switches again.

Really not looking forward to researching the lamp matrix, I have absolutely no idea where to even begin with that.

#3363 47 days ago

Well, guess I'll tackle polishing the cover and cleaning the motor today

IMG_20200409_105224 (resized).jpgIMG_20200409_103629 (resized).jpgIMG_20200409_103636 (resized).jpgIMG_20200409_103642 (resized).jpgIMG_20200409_103645 (resized).jpg
#3364 47 days ago

That motor looks like it could be retired. I did buy a new one for my High Speed as well. It would intermittently work. My pin is still apart so cannot confirm if it was the motor but for $30 it is worth replacing.

#3365 47 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

That motor looks like it could be retired. I did buy a new one for my High Speed as well. It would intermittently work. My pin is still apart so cannot confirm if it was the motor but for $30 it is worth replacing.

Oh, I agree. I'm just being a cheap bastard lol. Plus, I'm bored so I guess it's a challenge to see if I can fix it. If not, into the trash with it.

The plastic cover polished up pretty nicely.

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#3366 47 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Oh, I agree. I'm just being a cheap bastard lol. Plus, I'm bored so I guess it's a challenge to see if I can fix it. If not, into the trash with it.
The plastic cover polished up pretty nicely.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

WOW! Nice Job! That looks great. SH*T... Now I am going to have to do mine as well. What did you use to polish it? Novus 1?

#3367 47 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

WOW! Nice Job! That looks great. SH*T... Now I am going to have to do mine as well. What did you use to polish it? Novus 1?

The Crisco in the background? lol

#3368 47 days ago
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

The Crisco in the background? lol

LOL. It had some black spray paint on it for whatever reason so I tried that first but it was pissing me off with how long it was taking, so I switched to nail polish remover which took it right off.

Then I used my 6" harbor freight DA and novus 3-2-1.

I'll definitely do this to my f14 at some point also, but not now.. That thing looks like ass anyway...

IMG_20200409_111006 (resized).jpg
#3369 47 days ago

All better, for now anyway. I didn't end up taking it apart, I just hand spun it a bit until it was smoother and then reassembled. I think it might have a short in the wires that attach to the motor but clearly they're fine positioned where they are. Still not PERFECTLY smooth on the spin, but good enough for me, at least for now.
IMG_20200409_154414 (resized).jpg

#3370 47 days ago

You just need to play it more and keep the motor warm and exercised!

#3371 47 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

You just need to play it more and keep the motor warm and exercised!

Agreed. Gonna let it sit in demo mode for a bit. Now I need to tackle the ramp switches (AGAIN) and figure out my lamp matrix issues.

#3372 47 days ago

You like playing with those ramp switches don't you. Exactly what is the issue. I think you may have mentioned it but I am being lazy and letting you explain it again. LOL

#3373 47 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

You like playing with those ramp switches don't you. Exactly what is the issue. I think you may have mentioned it but I am being lazy and letting you explain it again. LOL

Right now I think the worst symptom is that it's registering ramps when I hit the ramp hard with the ball--regardless of whether I actually make the ramp or not. The first switch is gapped too closely I'm assuming. Annoying. Taking that apart this weekend, then begging for a primer on researching the lamp matrix issues

#3374 47 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Right now I think the worst symptom is that it's registering ramps when I hit the ramp hard with the ball--regardless of whether I actually make the ramp or not. The first switch is gapped too closely I'm assuming. Annoying. Taking that apart this weekend, then begging for a primer on researching the lamp matrix issues

That sounds about right. Mine have always registered correctly so have not had to adjust them. The switch arm does have a decent travel so I would imagine it does not have to be super narrow gap.

And what's the deal with your lamp matrix?

#3375 47 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Right now I think the worst symptom is that it's registering ramps when I hit the ramp hard with the ball--regardless of whether I actually make the ramp or not. The first switch is gapped too closely I'm assuming.

Most likely the gold coating is either worn off or someone cleaned them incorrectly and removed the gold coating. So you didn't get a switch registration, so you then gapped them closer. After you fiddle with them they work for a short period and then stop registering again. Rinse and repeat until you have no more hair left to pull out.

You need new switches! There not available you say. You can make WPC EOS switches work instead.

Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

begging for a primer on researching the lamp matrix issues

PinWiki has info on this. I would start by disconnecting the play field connectors from the cpu board and then test the cpu board pins first. If it checks out then you know your issue is on the play field.

#3376 47 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Most likely the gold coating is either worn off or someone cleaned them incorrectly and removed the gold coating. So you didn't get a switch registration, so you then gapped them closer. After you fiddle with them they work for a short period and then stop registering again. Rinse and repeat until you have no more hair left to pull out.
You need new switches! There not available you say. You can make WPC EOS switches work instead.

Lmao. You may well be right, I think they were fine before I started monkeying with them (although I'm not entirely sure). Alright, I'll research those switches you mentioned.

Quoted from GRUMPY:

PinWiki has info on this. I would start by disconnecting the play field connectors from the cpu board and then test the cpu board pins first. If it checks out then you know your issue is on the play field.

Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

And what's the deal with your lamp matrix?

I tested the board and found that columns tested fine but the row connector yields this, consistent across all pins on that plug. So I'm pretty confident it's in the playfield. Just not sure where to begin with it.
IMG_20200407_184411 (resized).jpg
According to the manual only the following should have actually been lit during this test. Does that mean that ALL the lamps that are lit in error here have issues (bad diodes, etc)?
IMG_20200410_015357 (resized).jpg

#3377 47 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

According to the manual only the following should have actually been lit during this test. Does that mean that ALL the lamps that are lit in error here have issues (bad diodes, etc)?

I'm not sure how you are doing this test, I would need more details.

#3378 47 days ago

One pin at a time, for both the column and row plugs. I was told to do this to determine whether it was the board or something on the playfield and that since my issue didn't change regardless of pin, it was something in the playfield. The column plug was perfect on all pins.

received_147322210050852 (resized).jpeg

Shown across 6 of the 8 different pins on the row plug, I don't see any variation.

IMG_20200407_184234 (resized).jpgIMG_20200407_184235 (resized).jpgIMG_20200407_184236 (resized).jpgIMG_20200407_184237 (resized).jpgIMG_20200407_184330 (resized).jpgIMG_20200407_184411 (resized).jpg

Obviously I don't have a clue about any of this, but the guy I have do board work is someone I definitely trust and don't think would ever try to shirk responsibility on a repair. But on this I have no idea where to even start, past what he told me to rule out prior to shipping boards off again.

#3379 46 days ago

This test does show that there is a play field issue but does rule out possible board issue as well.

Row 1, 3, and 8 are on at the same time. It might help to disconnect the GI lighting connector from the power supply so you only see the lamps that are stuck on. Lift the play field and look for a short on the lamps that are lit. The bonus lamps around the circle are connected together with a metal bar, see if any diodes have been bent over and touching the metal.

#3380 46 days ago

There were definitely some diodes bent down and probably causing issues because of that I bent them all so they for sure weren't touching things they weren't supposed to. That did drop a couple off my list, so that's good. Good suggestion!

IMG_20200410_121945 (resized).jpgIMG_20200410_122648 (resized).jpg
#3381 46 days ago

You got row 1 unshorted. Keep looking on the last 16 lights for a short.

#3382 46 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You got row 1 unshorted. Keep looking on the last 16 lights for a short.

Will do! Some of these diodes were really bent..

#3383 46 days ago

OK. Playing the sh*t out of High Speed which is next in line for refurb after Volcano.

Is it me or is this one of the worst backglasses out there?

Its not so far the other side of bad that it's good, it's just bad.

Zombie cops and washed out colours?

Meh.

#3384 46 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You got row 1 unshorted. Keep looking on the last 16 lights for a short.

Surely the short should be in row 3 somewhere, right? I'm plugging the connector on row 8.

Looked all through those (both rows) and everything 'looked' fine. What's next for testing so I can pinpoint it?

#3385 46 days ago
Quoted from Andy_B:

OK. Playing the sh*t out of High Speed which is next in line for refurb after Volcano.
Is it me or is this one of the worst backglasses out there?
Its not so far the other side of bad that it's good, it's just bad.
Zombie cops and washed out colours?
Meh.

Heh. I like the glass. I dunno.

#3386 46 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

What's next for testing so I can pinpoint it?

Make sure that the transistors right above the connectors are not touching each other.

#3387 46 days ago

Thanks freeplay40 got my ramp installed looks and plays great

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#3388 46 days ago

Ok need some help please....

Just checking over the flipper power board and came across this...

IMG_4579 (resized).jpegIMG_4577 (resized).jpeg

Is D1 a diode or a jumper, as on the board it states Diode yet in the manual it could be W1, but it's not clear as the markings don't match up.

Thank you for any help...oh if it is a diode what type please

#3389 46 days ago
Quoted from joew575:

Thanks freeplay40 got my ramp installed looks and plays great[quoted image]

Oh that does it. Time to order my clear ramp. Lol

Looks amazing!

#3390 46 days ago
Quoted from LGFAutos:

Ok need some help please....
Just checking over the flipper power board and came across this...
[quoted image][quoted image]
Is D1 a diode or a jumper, as on the board it states Diode yet in the manual it could be W1, but it's not clear as the markings don't match up.
Thank you for any help...oh if it is a diode what type please

It's a jumper for this game.

#3391 46 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Make sure that the transistors right above the connectors are not touching each other.

These guys?

IMG_20200410_184121 (resized).jpg
#3392 46 days ago

cheers Grumpy

Quoted from GRUMPY:

It's a jumper for this game.

#3393 46 days ago

ksuwildcatfan just contacted me for a new clear High Speed ramp....That will be number 200!

Thanks to all!

#3394 46 days ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

ksuwildcatfan just contacted me for a new clear High Speed ramp....That will be number 200!
Thanks to all!

To inform my wife or not to inform my wife.... Ope.

#3395 46 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

One pin at a time, for both the column and row plugs. I was told to do this to determine whether it was the board or something on the playfield and that since my issue didn't change regardless of pin, it was something in the playfield. The column plug was perfect on all pins.
[quoted image]
Shown across 6 of the 8 different pins on the row plug, I don't see any variation.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Obviously I don't have a clue about any of this, but the guy I have do board work is someone I definitely trust and don't think would ever try to shirk responsibility on a repair. But on this I have no idea where to even start, past what he told me to rule out prior to shipping boards off again.

I had a similar problem(not as many lamps lit) and found that the wiring inside the stop light cover was creating a short.

#3396 46 days ago
Quoted from finman2000:

I had a similar problem(not as many lamps lit) and found that the wiring inside the stop light cover was creating a short.

Hahaha that's ridiculous. I'd be so furious when I discovered that.

Sadly, problem persists with that unplugged.

As grumpy said it certainly seems like it's down to rows 3 & 8 lighting together when I'm powering only 8. Everything 'looks' fine on all those bulbs from what I can tell, but I haven't thrown a meter on anything.

#3397 46 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

(EDIT: actually I am not sure about the second rubber. It may go below the groove.

OEM from the factory is below the main rubber ring.

#3398 46 days ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

That will be number 200!

Well then that is 200 great looking machines!!!!
Thanks for taking to time to redesign and make the ramps!

#3399 44 days ago

A few months back I was asked to come up with a road decal and bracket sign from a High Speed owner who knew my work from mods I do for other games, primarily the ones I own. Since that time I've sold a handful of them but just realized I never officially posted the mod to the High Speed owners forum.

The roadway is a two piece reverse decal that you adhere to the underside of the clear plastic ramp. while the bracket decal is made to fully cover the metal bracket hanging down. The bracket decal design was based upon the owner's input at the time. However, I've seen that there has been a new mod for that bracket that resembles interstate signage. While I'm not going to duplicate the mod out of courtesy to the creator (would be a fairly simple 3D printer design with decals), I would be willing to offer an alternate bracket decal design to my current yellow and black CAUTION version if someone has an idea of something different.

I make all of the decals by hand to order using the highest quality materials. I print on a photo quality printer using OEM inks and OEM ultra gloss photo paper. For the road decal, I then apply a transparent adhesive layer to the top and for the underside apply a clear gloss vinyl for durability and longevity. For the bracket decal, I print on adhesive white gloss vinyl and overlay the same clear gloss vinyl on top.

I sell the roadway decal for $40 including US shipping and $50 with the bracket decal included. Please PM me if interested in purchasing.

HS-1.jpg
#3400 44 days ago

To install the road decal you will have to remove the rivets that hold the switch assembly to the underside of the ramp, is this correct? Then rivet it back.

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