(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.


By lordloss

6 years ago



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  • 3,330 posts
  • 326 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 17 hours ago by pacman11
  • Topic is favorited by 158 Pinsiders

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There are 3330 posts in this topic. You are on page 67 of 67.
#3301 7 days ago
Quoted from rickyrooroo:

How would I go about testing a TIP transistor?

You can test with an DMM.

Quoted from rickyrooroo:

This one looks badly repaired or busted on mine Q15.

Post a pic.

Quoted from rickyrooroo:

Would that cause coil tests 1-16 to fail?

A burnt fuse.

#3302 7 days ago

A burnt fuse.

yes. It was a burnt fuse. thanks grumpy and #Its_me_aj

The game flips again, but the music still stops every now and again. Makes a beep, music stops, then starts up on the next ball. Haven't pinpointed why exactly yet. I'll keep troubleshooting.

#3303 7 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

So shiny![quoted image][quoted image]

Cool. Mine is 89044.

#3304 7 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

MJW:
I am up to my eyebrows in molex connector research. This is the connector you are looking for:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex/0003091126/WM1337-ND/61336

Thanks Pin Pilot. That looks to be the one. Grumpy is hooking me up with that connector band pins. Much appreciated though.

#3305 5 days ago

Bit the bullet and bought a set of these. They're so pricy, but I love them!

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#3306 5 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Bit the bullet and bought a set of these. They're so pricy, but I love them![quoted image][quoted image]

Bumper light mod?

#3307 5 days ago

BriteCap Evos. $13/ea

#3308 5 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Bit the bullet and bought a set of these. They're so pricy, but I love them![quoted image][quoted image]

I love those! What caps are you going to use? - here they are (red) in my Pinbot with white opaque caps

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#3309 5 days ago

Hahaha so bright. I need to dim them slightly and then turn on the interactive pop. Swapping flippers too, and still need to tweak pop skirt/spoon alignment

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#3310 5 days ago

Hello! I just found this club and it's great to be here! HS was my go-to game during my graduate school years and I picked up one about five years ago. It's a keeper but has been kept completely original with the exception of some plastic pieces replaced and a whole new rubber kit. I don't plan on upgrading the machine with LEDs but I sure do like the examples shown here!

#3311 5 days ago

Flippers in, evos dialed back almost as much as possible (center cluster off / alternate on with pop). I wish there were an easy way (for an idiot like me!) to get those spoons lined up. I just simply can't get it right.

I really need to go fight the dumb shooter lane, too..

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#3312 5 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Hahaha so bright. I need to dim them slightly and then turn on the interactive pop. Swapping flippers too, and still need to tweak pop skirt/spoon alignment[quoted image][quoted image]

Those look pretty cool! I may have to check into them.

#3313 5 days ago

They're almost "too" bright but I've always been a big fan of the evos. Only negative for me is that there isn't a separate brightness adjustment for top side LEDs vs bottom side LEDs. So in order to reign in the top, you end up sacrificing almost all of the bottom illumination. Bleh

#3314 5 days ago

This shooter lane adjustment is about to drive me completely insane. I'm about to re-engineer the damn post on the right side of the ramp to cradle the ball into the ramp. Seems every adjustment I make is just temporary. Too high, too low. I've got the metal guide adjusted WAY low now, with the rubber post sleeve back in -- completely necessary now that I've got the metal guide bent so far down.

I'm going to replace the shooter spring first, maybe that's part of it. I'm not entirely sure it's hitting the ball centered (maybe I sanded too much off the lane--i wouldn't be surprised).

Gah!

#3315 4 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

This shooter lane adjustment is about to drive me completely insane. I'm about to re-engineer the damn post on the right side of the ramp to cradle the ball into the ramp. Seems every adjustment I make is just temporary. Too high, too low. I've got the metal guide adjusted WAY low now, with the rubber post sleeve back in -- completely necessary now that I've got the metal guide bent so far down.
I'm going to replace the shooter spring first, maybe that's part of it. I'm not entirely sure it's hitting the ball centered (maybe I sanded too much off the lane--i wouldn't be surprised).
Gah!

I had the exact same issue. I tried adjusting everything, from the lane guide, shooter plate and spring. Turned out the post just past the shooter lane exit flap was clipping the ball, not allowing a straight trajectory to the ramp. I took my dremel and shaved half the Titan silicon post to eliminate any ball contact. It solved the issue, perhaps this solution will work for you. Good luck!

HSPost.pdf
#3316 4 days ago

I have my lane guide pulled MUCH further in and that at least seems to get it in the ramp sometimes.. better than never I guess. I feel like the damn traffic light gets it sometimes also. I'm gonna get this damn thing dialed in eventually.. Lol

#3317 4 days ago

Is there way to turn up the volume on the speech and the background music down?

#3318 4 days ago

I think the lane was leaning slightly which was affecting the path. I bent it back and now I'm able to hit the ramp almost every time, albeit with a fairly hard pull that makes hitting the hideout difficult. I digress...

I'm about to not be friends with these damn hideout, too.... It didn't break, I don't think. But it's out of the groove and I can't figure it how to get it back in..grr

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#3319 4 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

albeit with a fairly hard pull that makes hitting the hideout difficult

Never be concerned about hitting the hide outs from the shooter.....it's not a skill shot....I think is scores like 10 pts!

#3320 4 days ago

How do i get the 5" rubbers behind the hide out kicker shafts?

#3321 4 days ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Never be concerned about hitting the hide outs from the shooter.....it's not a skill shot....I think is scores like 10 pts!

Doesn't it count for something if you drain a ball trying to escape? Don't you have to make it to a hideout to escape?

#3322 4 days ago

Damn, A-11047 is unobtainium.. how do I go about fixing this screw up?

#3323 4 days ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

How do i get the 5" rubbers behind the hide out kicker shafts?

I had to halfway disassemble the damn thing. Take off the black wood piece and you should be able to get to everything you need.

#3324 4 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Damn, A-11047 is unobtainium.. how do I go about fixing this screw up?

I recall this issue well. If you absolutely want to get an original A-11047, I found one at PBR.

The problem is that it’s really hard to adjust the actuator arm on top of the switch without breaking it. It’s only held to the switch by a thin plastic pivot. If that plastic is broken, the switch is not repairable. It’s VERY easy to break, don’t ask me how I know...

I replaced it with the newer version of the switch, 5647-12693-20. It’s a DB3 microswitch with the same actuator arm, but the arm is attached over the top of the switch. It can be easily adjusted without breaking anything. The worst you can do is pop it off, and if you do you can just reattach it. You will also need to attach a diode.

#3325 3 days ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

I recall this issue well. If you absolutely want to get an original A-11047, I found one at PBR.
The problem is that it’s really hard to adjust the actuator arm on top of the switch without breaking it. It’s only held to the switch by a thin plastic pivot. If that plastic is broken, the switch is not repairable. It’s VERY easy to break, don’t ask me how I know...
I replaced it with the newer version of the switch, 5647-12693-20. It’s a DB3 microswitch with the same actuator arm, but the arm is attached over the top of the switch. It can be easily adjusted without breaking anything. The worst you can do is pop it off, and if you do you can just reattach it. You will also need to attach a diode.

Good info.

#3326 3 days ago

Two in the cart.. For my third order with Marco this month

#3327 1 day ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

That is special solenoids #1 and #4. Q-75 and Q-69 are the drive transistors. If you get a jumper wire and connect one side to the ground braid and the other side briefly touch to the metal tab of each transistor with the power on, do the coils fire now?

@Grumpy are the jump wires you're referring to these?
I'm new to this. Wanna have right tools in hand when i make the drive to test it all out.

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#3328 1 day ago
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

Wanna have right tools in hand when i make the drive to test it all out.

Yes this will work but you only need a couple.

#3329 1 day ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Yes this will work but you only need a couple.

Thanks for quick response!

#3330 17 hours ago

Anyone have a credit display laying around? I need one for my highspeed.. Thanks!

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There are 3330 posts in this topic. You are on page 67 of 67.

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