(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.


By lordloss

7 years ago

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  • 361 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Canuck_pinhead
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There are 4623 posts in this topic. You are on page 67 of 93.
#3301 1 year ago
Quoted from rickyrooroo:

How would I go about testing a TIP transistor?

You can test with an DMM.

Quoted from rickyrooroo:

This one looks badly repaired or busted on mine Q15.

Post a pic.

Quoted from rickyrooroo:

Would that cause coil tests 1-16 to fail?

A burnt fuse.

#3302 1 year ago

A burnt fuse.

yes. It was a burnt fuse. thanks GRUMPY and #Its_me_aj

The game flips again, but the music still stops every now and again. Makes a beep, music stops, then starts up on the next ball. Haven't pinpointed why exactly yet. I'll keep troubleshooting.

#3303 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

So shiny![quoted image][quoted image]

Cool. Mine is 89044.

#3304 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

MJW:
I am up to my eyebrows in molex connector research. This is the connector you are looking for:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex/0003091126/WM1337-ND/61336

Thanks Pin Pilot. That looks to be the one. Grumpy is hooking me up with that connector band pins. Much appreciated though.

#3305 1 year ago

Bit the bullet and bought a set of these. They're so pricy, but I love them!

IMG_20200325_124332 (resized).jpgIMG_20200325_124337 (resized).jpg
#3306 1 year ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Bit the bullet and bought a set of these. They're so pricy, but I love them![quoted image][quoted image]

Bumper light mod?

#3307 1 year ago

BriteCap Evos. $13/ea

#3308 1 year ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Bit the bullet and bought a set of these. They're so pricy, but I love them![quoted image][quoted image]

I love those! What caps are you going to use? - here they are (red) in my Pinbot with white opaque caps

1 (resized).jpg
#3309 1 year ago

Hahaha so bright. I need to dim them slightly and then turn on the interactive pop. Swapping flippers too, and still need to tweak pop skirt/spoon alignment

IMG_20200325_142600 (resized).jpgIMG_20200325_144954 (resized).jpg
#3310 1 year ago

Hello! I just found this club and it's great to be here! HS was my go-to game during my graduate school years and I picked up one about five years ago. It's a keeper but has been kept completely original with the exception of some plastic pieces replaced and a whole new rubber kit. I don't plan on upgrading the machine with LEDs but I sure do like the examples shown here!

#3311 1 year ago

Flippers in, evos dialed back almost as much as possible (center cluster off / alternate on with pop). I wish there were an easy way (for an idiot like me!) to get those spoons lined up. I just simply can't get it right.

I really need to go fight the dumb shooter lane, too..

IMG_20200325_164828 (resized).jpg
#3312 1 year ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Hahaha so bright. I need to dim them slightly and then turn on the interactive pop. Swapping flippers too, and still need to tweak pop skirt/spoon alignment[quoted image][quoted image]

Those look pretty cool! I may have to check into them.

#3313 1 year ago

They're almost "too" bright but I've always been a big fan of the evos. Only negative for me is that there isn't a separate brightness adjustment for top side LEDs vs bottom side LEDs. So in order to reign in the top, you end up sacrificing almost all of the bottom illumination. Bleh

#3314 1 year ago

This shooter lane adjustment is about to drive me completely insane. I'm about to re-engineer the damn post on the right side of the ramp to cradle the ball into the ramp. Seems every adjustment I make is just temporary. Too high, too low. I've got the metal guide adjusted WAY low now, with the rubber post sleeve back in -- completely necessary now that I've got the metal guide bent so far down.

I'm going to replace the shooter spring first, maybe that's part of it. I'm not entirely sure it's hitting the ball centered (maybe I sanded too much off the lane--i wouldn't be surprised).

Gah!

#3315 1 year ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

This shooter lane adjustment is about to drive me completely insane. I'm about to re-engineer the damn post on the right side of the ramp to cradle the ball into the ramp. Seems every adjustment I make is just temporary. Too high, too low. I've got the metal guide adjusted WAY low now, with the rubber post sleeve back in -- completely necessary now that I've got the metal guide bent so far down.
I'm going to replace the shooter spring first, maybe that's part of it. I'm not entirely sure it's hitting the ball centered (maybe I sanded too much off the lane--i wouldn't be surprised).
Gah!

I had the exact same issue. I tried adjusting everything, from the lane guide, shooter plate and spring. Turned out the post just past the shooter lane exit flap was clipping the ball, not allowing a straight trajectory to the ramp. I took my dremel and shaved half the Titan silicon post to eliminate any ball contact. It solved the issue, perhaps this solution will work for you. Good luck!

HSPost.pdf
#3316 1 year ago

I have my lane guide pulled MUCH further in and that at least seems to get it in the ramp sometimes.. better than never I guess. I feel like the damn traffic light gets it sometimes also. I'm gonna get this damn thing dialed in eventually.. Lol

#3317 1 year ago

Is there way to turn up the volume on the speech and the background music down?

#3318 1 year ago

I think the lane was leaning slightly which was affecting the path. I bent it back and now I'm able to hit the ramp almost every time, albeit with a fairly hard pull that makes hitting the hideout difficult. I digress...

I'm about to not be friends with these damn hideout, too.... It didn't break, I don't think. But it's out of the groove and I can't figure it how to get it back in..grr

IMG_20200326_144029 (resized).jpgIMG_20200326_144046 (resized).jpg
#3319 1 year ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

albeit with a fairly hard pull that makes hitting the hideout difficult

Never be concerned about hitting the hide outs from the shooter.....it's not a skill shot....I think is scores like 10 pts!

#3320 1 year ago

How do i get the 5" rubbers behind the hide out kicker shafts?

#3321 1 year ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Never be concerned about hitting the hide outs from the shooter.....it's not a skill shot....I think is scores like 10 pts!

Doesn't it count for something if you drain a ball trying to escape? Don't you have to make it to a hideout to escape?

#3322 1 year ago

Damn, A-11047 is unobtainium.. how do I go about fixing this screw up?

#3323 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

How do i get the 5" rubbers behind the hide out kicker shafts?

I had to halfway disassemble the damn thing. Take off the black wood piece and you should be able to get to everything you need.

#3324 1 year ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Damn, A-11047 is unobtainium.. how do I go about fixing this screw up?

I recall this issue well. If you absolutely want to get an original A-11047, I found one at PBR.

The problem is that it’s really hard to adjust the actuator arm on top of the switch without breaking it. It’s only held to the switch by a thin plastic pivot. If that plastic is broken, the switch is not repairable. It’s VERY easy to break, don’t ask me how I know...

I replaced it with the newer version of the switch, 5647-12693-20. It’s a DB3 microswitch with the same actuator arm, but the arm is attached over the top of the switch. It can be easily adjusted without breaking anything. The worst you can do is pop it off, and if you do you can just reattach it. You will also need to attach a diode.

#3325 1 year ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

I recall this issue well. If you absolutely want to get an original A-11047, I found one at PBR.
The problem is that it’s really hard to adjust the actuator arm on top of the switch without breaking it. It’s only held to the switch by a thin plastic pivot. If that plastic is broken, the switch is not repairable. It’s VERY easy to break, don’t ask me how I know...
I replaced it with the newer version of the switch, 5647-12693-20. It’s a DB3 microswitch with the same actuator arm, but the arm is attached over the top of the switch. It can be easily adjusted without breaking anything. The worst you can do is pop it off, and if you do you can just reattach it. You will also need to attach a diode.

Good info.

#3326 1 year ago

Two in the cart.. For my third order with Marco this month

#3327 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

That is special solenoids #1 and #4. Q-75 and Q-69 are the drive transistors. If you get a jumper wire and connect one side to the ground braid and the other side briefly touch to the metal tab of each transistor with the power on, do the coils fire now?

@Grumpy are the jump wires you're referring to these?
I'm new to this. Wanna have right tools in hand when i make the drive to test it all out.

Screenshot_20200329-180841 (resized).png
#3328 1 year ago
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

Wanna have right tools in hand when i make the drive to test it all out.

Yes this will work but you only need a couple.

#3329 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Yes this will work but you only need a couple.

Thanks for quick response!

#3330 1 year ago

Anyone have a credit display laying around? I need one for my highspeed.. Thanks!

#3331 1 year ago

Man, that hideout switch was a real B to me. Had to do the job twice to get it right. I think the bottom hideout switch has a failing diode, or the solder is bad (it looked fine). It was being really iffy about registering in switch test. But for now it's all back together and working.

I'll likely replace the spoon on my 'green' pop because it's still got the one it had before I started (that thin piece of crap I replaced because I couldn't get the top of the 'red' pop to register at all).

That ramp really needs a nice touch at some point. Stock black looks bleh... :/

IMG_20200403_172407 (resized).jpg
#3332 1 year ago

Congrats! My High Speed restore is in "Need-New-Cabinet" indefinite wait mode. Everything else is ready to 99% ready to go.

#3333 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Congrats! My High Speed restore is in "Need-New-Cabinet" indefinite wait mode. Everything else is ready to 99% ready to go.

I thought you had a new cab coming?!

#3334 1 year ago

I'll likely replace the spoon on my 'green' pop because it's still got the one it had before I started (that thin piece of crap I replaced because I couldn't get the top of the 'red' pop to register at all).
That ramp really needs a nice touch at some point. Stock black looks bleh... :/[quoted image]

Translucent red was my choice!

HS1.pdfHS2.pdf
#3335 1 year ago

That's the one I had decided on, too! Just wish I didn't have to disassemble and ship out to get it!

The clear is really cool too.. Both are far better than black.

#3336 1 year ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

I thought you had a new cab coming?!

Me TOO! Then the guy (Paul from Virtuapin.net) stopped all cabinet production and is only shipping his virtual pinball customers due to Covid-19. So I am dead in the water.

#3337 1 year ago
Quoted from nvu4prod:

I'll likely replace the spoon on my 'green' pop because it's still got the one it had before I started (that thin piece of crap I replaced because I couldn't get the top of the 'red' pop to register at all).
That ramp really needs a nice touch at some point. Stock black looks bleh... :/[quoted image]
Translucent red was my choice![quoted image][quoted image]

I opted for Red as well. Looks great.

#3338 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Me TOO! Then the guy (Paul from Virtuapin.net) stopped all cabinet production and is only shipping his virtual pinball customers due to Covid-19. So I am dead in the water.

Noooooo!!!! Man, that's the freaking pits.

Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

I opted for Red as well. Looks great.

Give ya ten bucks for it

#3339 1 year ago

Here is the new traffic light. I kept the old one that was relocated to the back and built a harness that allows both to operate together.
You can see it in action here. https://imgur.com/9fJXNOG

You can see more information on this stoplight here. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-led-stoplight
20200227_195733 (resized).jpg

#3340 1 year ago
Quoted from detroitzoran:

Here is the new traffic light. I kept the old one that was relocated to the back and built a harness that allows both to operate together.
You can see it in action here. https://imgur.com/9fJXNOG
You can see more information on this stoplight here. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-led-stoplight
[quoted image]

Looks great! I definitely want to relocate mine at a minimum when I finally give in and buy the new ramp.

#3341 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Me TOO! Then the guy (Paul from Virtuapin.net) stopped all cabinet production and is only shipping his virtual pinball customers due to Covid-19. So I am dead in the water.

That's not entirely accurate. After everyone went home for the stay at home order, I was focused on getting the "smalls" caught up, before getting back to cab building. I'm building cabs 6 days a week. It's just going to take longer, as I'm working by myself until this is all over.

#3342 1 year ago
Quoted from NoahFentz:

That's not entirely accurate. After everyone went home for the stay at home order, I was focused on getting the "smalls" caught up, before getting back to cab building. I'm building cabs 6 days a week. It's just going to take longer, as I'm working by myself until this is all over.

Ok, Sorry, Thought that is what you told me when we spoke. Can you estimate a finish time for the HS cabinet?

#3343 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Ok, Sorry, Thought that is what you told me when we spoke. Can you estimate a finish time for the HS cabinet?

I can't possibly answer that right now. We went from a staff of three, to one. There's more to this than just building cabinets. I'll have to do everything in individual steps, instead of concurrently, as when there's three people. I'll have to build, fill, sand, paint, sand between coats, paint again, screen, decal, and palletize them alone.

I'll keep everyone updated as best I can.

#3344 1 year ago
Quoted from detroitzoran:

Here is the new traffic light. I kept the old one that was relocated to the back and built a harness that allows both to operate together.
You can see it in action here. https://imgur.com/9fJXNOG
You can see more information on this stoplight here. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-led-stoplight
[quoted image]

Hmmm... Liking that and the red ramp....

#3345 1 year ago

Has anyone done the series to parallel conversion on the flashers to allow the #89 LED bulbs to be installed?
Coin Taker offers #63 bulbs in LED but no colors. These are Stern specific but I want to add color.
Comet only has #89.

If someone has done the conversion, have you used 5 SMD #89 bulbs in the flashers and are they blinding?
I want the lifespan of LEDs but do not want to burn out my retinas when playing. I once played a F14 and had to walk away because it was just too bright.
I do realize that I can install incandescent 89s and the will last longer but I am also looking to add color.
Thanks
Cliff

#3346 1 year ago

It's hard to see in the .gif, but the pop-bumpers were rebuilt with clear red too. I hindsight, I wish I did rebuilt the pop-bumpers with the clear blue.

Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

Hmmm... Liking that and the red ramp....

#3347 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

Has anyone done the series to parallel conversion on the flashers to allow the #89 LED bulbs to be installed?
Coin Taker offers #63 bulbs in LED but no colors. These are Stern specific but I want to add color.
Comet only has #89.
If someone has done the conversion, have you used 5 SMD #89 bulbs in the flashers and are they blinding?
I want the lifespan of LEDs but do not want to burn out my retinas when playing. I once played a F14 and had to walk away because it was just too bright.
I do realize that I can install incandescent 89s and the will last longer but I am also looking to add color.
Thanks
Cliff

No need to rewire the bulbs into parallel unless you are looking for brighter flashers. I normally use 5 smd flasher bulbs unless they are behind the backglass then I use flat 8 smd bulbs. All you need to do is remove the ground wire from the resistors and install the #89 leds. Enjoy.

#3348 1 year ago

Thank you Grumpy.

#3349 1 year ago
Quoted from detroitzoran:

It's hard to see in the .gif, but the pop-bumpers were rebuilt with clear red too. I hindsight, I wish I did rebuilt the pop-bumpers with the clear blue.

Blue?
Police lights look?

#3350 1 year ago

Am I alone in thinking that adjusting the ramp switches is super annoying? I think I finally got them *okay*. Still not perfect. Blah

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