Yea, That back flasher is a gotcha for sure. I am sure most end up doing that.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:I should be able to just plug in the ramp and make sure all the switches and the eject solenoid work as intended during a normal game.. Right?[quoted image][quoted image]
I would think so as long as you have all the connectors plugged in.
Looking good!
What purpose do the ramp switches do exactly? I didn't notice anything but as I found out I have to disassemble more crap (the back wall) to thread the connector through, so it was actually connected underneath.. the eject solenoid worked perfectly and the game seemed to act proper, so I'm calling the left side assembled for now, with the only caveat being the stupid flasher. Woof.
//EDIT I don't remember it awarding a ramp bonus. Hmm. Wonder if the right side not being soldered has something to do with that..a common ground or something. Not going to worry about it, going to move forward with soldering the right side.
Not here yet Same with pops.
I'll have to take the top wire forms off again and I'm not fully securing the ramp just yet so when those are here I can build those up. I'm just checking functionality as I go along, especially where I'm having to solder things... Because my soldering skills suck.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:What purpose do the ramp switches do exactly? I didn't notice anything but as I found out I have to disassemble more crap (the back wall) to thread the connector through, so it was actually connected underneath.. the eject solenoid worked perfectly and the game seemed to act proper, so I'm calling the left side assembled for now, with the only caveat being the stupid flasher. Woof.
//EDIT I don't remember it awarding a ramp bonus. Hmm.
When the ramp shot is made the ball is sent alternately to the left and right hideouts.
The ramp switches dictate when the diverters operate depending on which hideout the ball is to be sent to next.
Kind of a silly question..I knew that!
Not working on mine but I'm not gonna panic.. Time to solder the right side.
eyyyyy, it's almost starting to look like a pinball machine
Both escapes 'work' insofar as they both detect the ball being there and eject it after a brief pause. For some reason the ramp switches aren't registering now (no idea) and I have a feeling the game won't register the ramp shot without that working. Bleh.
IMG_20200313_222653_3 (resized).jpgWeird. I got the flippers all set up and now it's knocking on boot for switches 42, 43, and 48 (not surprising, as the ramp wasn't registering anything).. Never did that until I installed the flippers.
Still no kickout or back wall flashers. Hoping there's a break somewhere around one of those that I can easily identify and fix. Most other things seem to be working fine, aside from all three spinners which I adjusted and were scoring but now aren't for some reason. Seems that entire row is having issues now. Obviously I still need to build pops and install star rollovers. Those should arrive Monday.
That does not look like a board for High Speed. Why do you say that GI plug is causing boot problems?
Here is a picture from my High Speed PS board
hs_PS (resized).jpgAs for my continuing saga, not sure why my game started knocking for those switches on boot since it hadn't ever done that before, but whatever.
Did some switch testing and realized that everything registered fine except spinners, ramps, and the right hideout rollover. All except the hideout rollover didn't register anything, period. The hideout registered SOMETIMES, but mostly not.
I unscrewed the right hideout microswitch (wish I haven't--I don't think I needed to) and lost the bottom fiber plate.. So tomorrow I go hunting for it or to salvage one off something else in my basement I guess.
Noticed this under the right hideout rollover when I got it upstairs. Bleh. I'll probably knock out some more soldering tomorrow to see if I can clean up some of this mess. Hoping once I've cleaned up the soldering that switch row will be back to working again.
IMG_20200314_222221 (resized).jpgIMG_20200314_222230 (resized).jpgQuoted from Pin-Pilot:That does not look like a board for High Speed. Why do you say that GI plug is causing boot problems?
Here is a picture from my High Speed PS board[quoted image]
It’s a Rottendog replacement power board.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from MJW:It’s a Rottendog replacement power board.[quoted image]
Problem seemed to be when the four pin connector was disturbed. Grumpy thinks I may have broken a trace on 6 or 12 pin connector. Going back to stock board.
Was there some reason you went away from the original board? I shipped mine all off for full rebuild, always prefer to just use original if possible. But my Eight Ball Deluxe does have an Alltek (came that way) in it.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Was there some reason you went away from the original board? I shipped mine all off for full rebuild, always prefer to just use original if possible. But my Eight Ball Deluxe does have an Alltek (came that way) in it.
As I was telling Grumpy ,when I first got in the hobby thought Rottendog would be more reliable than old original. Have learned that rebuilt originals and X pin boards are very reliable.
Resoldered that green wire for the right hideout (bottom) switch and noticed a purple wire attached to a blob of other purple wires (middle right on PF) but hanging on by a thread. Cut it out, stripped off some fresh wire and soldered it in.
Ramp now working as far as I can tell, although it's still griping about switches. I'm guessing I gapped them too close when I was debugging (there's not really any reason they should have needed adjusting at all).
Star rollovers now griping, but haven't spent any time looking because I don't even have the parts yet.
Still no back wall flashers (I did resolder the left one, wires routed through the plastic) or kickout coil. I resoldered the purple/yellow wire (on the kickback) I had originally desoldered in order to sand the playfield. No idea why those ones continue to fight me. I think that's it as far as solenoids not working goes.
Making some progress but that kickback and the two flashers have me stumped. I guess I need to start tracing wires to see where continuity drops. Any other ideas?
Quoted from MJW:As I was telling Grumpy ,when I first got in the hobby thought Rottendog would be more reliable than old original. Have learned that rebuilt originals and X pin boards are very reliable.
That's my feeling. Rebuilt original, especially in a home setting, should last a very, very long time.
I put the top wire forms on for now, just to test base functionality. Seems good aside from the two flashers and stupid kickout. I obviously messed up the ramp switches and made them WAY TOO sensitive because it'll trip from me just hitting the ramp hard on a complete whiff. But I assumed I'd have to remove it to install star rollovers and pops anyway so I'll just do it then. Guess that basically means I'm done until my order from Marco gets here, aside from researching the kickback and ghosting LEDs on one column which I don't feel like making my head hurt over trying to figure out today.
received_864119400696564 (resized).jpegIMG_20200315_122524 (resized).jpg
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Seems good aside from the two flashers
I seem to recall that I had Flasher issues on my High Speed a few years ago. Also recall that they work sort of like the old Christmas tree lights....one bulb out and none light. All I did was replace bulbs.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Making some progress but that kickback
Do you hear the relay clicking on coil test?
Quoted from GRUMPY:Do you hear the relay clicking on coil test?
That's a damn fine question. Lemme go check.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Nope, not that I hear.
Look at the relay next to the kicker, Check the brown wire for 28 volts DC.
Well, maybe. Maybe not. Unless it being unhooked broke something. I'm assuming it solders on to the terminal with the brown wires, right?
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Unless it being unhooked broke something.
Relay wont work if resistor is disconnected.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:I'm assuming it solders on to the terminal with the brown wires, right?
I need a better pic angle to know for sure but I think it hooks to the red. Manual says brown on one relay and red on another. So many errors in the manual.
Seemed to line up best with brown so that's what I went with but I can certainly try the red. It just doesn't seem to really line up particularly well. I did check the purple/yellow wire (on the coil lug itself) and got 0V but if the relay keeps it from energizing until it's time I guess that makes sense.
IMG_20200315_204340 (resized).jpgIMG_20200315_204356 (resized).jpgIMG_20200315_204400 (resized).jpgQuoted from KSUWildcatFan:Seemed to line up best with brown so that's what I went
Does the relay click in coil test now?
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:I did check the purple/yellow wire (on the coil lug itself) and got 0V
Where did you have the black lead?
Red was the correct answer. Moved it over and it works perfectly now. I was actually looking at a past post you had replied on that said the same thing lol
Sweet deal, looks like all I have left is to figure out the flashers. Well and to install pops / star rollovers when they get here.
You're my hero grumpy.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Red was the correct answer. Moved it over and it works perfectly now. I was actually looking at a past post you had replied on that said the same thing lol
Sweet deal, looks like all I have left is to figure out the flashers. Well and to install pops / star rollovers when they get here.
You're my hero grumpy.
GRUMPY knows his shit!!!
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:grumpy knows his shit!!!
100%.
Man I'm feeling good about finishing this thing.
I really need to figure out how to change the launch angle on the shooter lane at some point. It's smacking right into the lower targets.. Not even close to the ramp. It seems like it's that damn post sleeve, but from all I can tell, it's supposed to be like that.. Bleh
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:looks like all I have left is to figure out the flashers.
Use 2 known good bulbs, then run coil test. You can test the bulbs with a 9 volt battery and a jumper wire.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:100%.
Man I'm feeling good about finishing this thing.
I really need to figure out how to change the launch angle on the shooter lane at some point. It's smacking right into the lower targets.. Not even close to the ramp. It seems like it's that damn post sleeve, but from all I can tell, it's supposed to be like that.. Bleh
There is an adjustment you can make on the ball guide rail that exits the shooter lane. There are 2 screws and a slotted mount that you can change the exit angle of the rail. I am not sure which targets the ball is hitting but it sounds like yours needs to be adjusted "looser" so the ball travels higher on the playfield out of the launch lane. Is this correct? Or is the ball hitting the targets higher on the playfield? In that case the lane should be adjusted "Tighter". Here is a pic of the slotted mount.
IMG_4090 (resized).JPG
Yep, makes sense--on both suggestions. Also reading that a post sleeve can cause it to deflect (what's happening on mine, I'm almost certain of it).
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Yep, makes sense--on both suggestions. Also reading that a post sleeve can cause it to deflect (what's happening on mine, I'm almost certain of it).
Is it hitting the post sleeve just out of the shooter lane? If that is the case then the lane guide should be adjusted to make a harder turn or tighter turn to avoid the post rubber.
Quoted from MJW:Better picture. Going back to rebuilt stock ...
In the meantime try pushing this pin into the connector more with a small screwdriver.
ee (resized).jpgQuoted from Pin-Pilot:Can you take a slow motion video of the ball launch?
Going to not worry about it for now since I know the ramp has to come off at least once more. I understand the mechanics in play, I just need to fiddle with it until it's right. I might have to revise how I'm approaching securing the screw there. It doesn't seem to want to screw in terribly tightly and that's allowing it to flex. May just say hell with it and use a 6-32 bolt with a locknut under the PF. I need that to hold strong when I do finally get it set right.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Going to not worry about it for now since I know the ramp has to come off at least once more. I understand the mechanics in play, I just need to fiddle with it until it's right. I might have to revise how I'm approaching securing the screw there. It doesn't seem to want to screw in terribly tightly and that's allowing it to flex. May just say hell with it and use a 6-32 bolt with a locknut under the PF. I need that to hold strong when I do finally get it set right.
Sorry, did not mean to imply anything about not understanding the workings of the lane.
That is an option. however... Better option and a little more work...but. With stripped out wood screws you can drill the hole a little bigger, find a wood dowel beforehand for size you want then drill into the playfield do not go through the playfield to the other side. Pre-fit the dowel. should be a snug fit, then insert wood glue into the hole, do not need a lot, then insert dowel into the hole. Let dry, sand flat. Then drill new hole for screw and voila! This makes for original look and much easier to adjust ball guide angle. Another reason to do it this way is there may me mechanics underneath the playfield that will not allow for space for a nut.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:I might have to revise how I'm approaching securing the screw there. It doesn't seem to want to screw in terribly tightly and that's allowing it to flex.
Put some wood glue in the hole and then take a wooden toothpick and break it in half and put both pointed ends in the hole. Then give them a wack from a hammer and let it dry over night. Cut off excess with Xacto knife. Replace screw and tighten as normal.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Seemed to line up best with brown so that's what I went with but I can certainly try the red. It just doesn't seem to really line up particularly well. I did check the purple/yellow wire (on the coil lug itself) and got 0V but if the relay keeps it from energizing until it's time I guess that makes sense.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
There is supposed to be two resistors on there the small one you have and you are missing the larger one its a 5 ohm 10 watt resistor. look at post 2979 and you will see what i am talking about and how they are wired
Quoted from GRUMPY:Put some wood glue in the hole and then take a wooden toothpick and break it in half and put both pointed ends in the hole. Then give them a wack from a hammer and let it dry over night. Cut off excess with Xacto knife. Replace screw and tighten as normal.
That is probably a better route with the Hardtop installed.
Quoted from GRUMPY:In the meantime try pushing this pin into the connector more with a small screwdriver.[quoted image]
Will do. Thanks.
Grumpy gold as per usual. I forgot I ended up doing that with a star post on the first pin I owned (an old, beat to sh!t WMS OXO) and it worked perfectly. Should work here also.
I need to find a better solution for mounting that stupid hideout microswitch (the one that sticks through the metal bracket to detect when a ball is routed there) also since the bottom fiber board went missing. I'm half tempted to just glue the damn thing to the bracket and order a couple replacements next time I place an order somewhere, figuring I'll have to destroy it to remove next time.... It came loose last night while I was messing with the shooter lane angle and my game started doing ALL SORTS of crazy things--I'm guessing something was grounding something out. I shut it down, pulled it completely out and the weird behavior stopped. But clearly that also undid my progress in the hideout. Bleh.
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