Topeka, KS
Ahahaha I just figured that out. My God. I used hex screws to reassemble and that's why I was confused.
(Topic ID: 69131)
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Alright, scoring fixed on the slings after my super duhhhhh blonde moment. Still at a complete loss on why so many solenoids are out all of a sudden. Fuses are good, connections are good, I'm at a loss.
And holy crap, this thing is doing some weeeeeeird stuff with the LEDs under the inserts. The backglass looks decent now though.
IMG_20200309_215059 (resized).jpgQuoted from KSUWildcatFan:Still at a complete loss on why so many solenoids are out all of a sudden
Have you checked for power at the non working coils.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:No voltage on any of those during solenoid test as far as I can tell.
Voltage should be there all the time. Either you disconnected a power wire, you have a bad fuse/fuse holder, cracked header pin on the power supply or a loose pin on one of the big molex connectors for the play field.
I only got voltage measurements on the lugs of the coil for slings when they were actually firing..?
I did notice that my f2 fuse (solenoids) is 5A (sheet says 2.5) and special solenoids is a 3A (sheet says 2.5). I sure hope that 5A fuse didn't let something fry itself... The boards were already sent off to be completely rebuilt once. 
Did you double check that all plugs are in proper location and not "off" a pin?
Did you inspect the headers on the board?
Plugs all look fine and I don't see anything 'off' but come to think of it, I don't think I've ever had a successful test since getting these boards back. I started sanding down my playfield a month before these shipped to me so this is the first time since receiving them back that I've actually tried to start up and play a game..
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Plugs all look fine and I don't see anything 'off'
Test each of these pins (4-8) for voltage.
ps (resized).PNGDidn't get a chance to test those for voltage but did get a chance to do some diagnosing with fuses (and rechecked all plugs, both in cab and in back box) and now I'm really confused. My pops and slings age tied to that F4 fuse, NOT F2. Isn't F2 supposed to be for 'specialty' solenoids (which slings and pops are supposed to be.. Right)?
I'll test the voltages tonight when I'm back home again.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:My pops and slings age tied to that F4 fuse, NOT F2. Isn't F2 supposed to be for 'specialty' solenoids (which slings and pops are supposed to be.. Right)?
There are a lot of errors in the manual. But what I know is there are 3 red solenoid power wires on pins 6,7 and 8. And 1 red/white solenoid power wire on pin 4. All 4 of these wires need to have 28-34 volts DC on them.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:I only got voltage measurements on the lugs of the coil for slings when they were actually firing..?
You need to only have one test lead on the coil and the other should be on the ground braid, then you will read power all the time. Now check the coils that don't work for voltage.
Quoted from GRUMPY:You need to only have one test lead on the coil and the other should be on the ground braid, then you will read power all the time. Now check the coils that don't work for voltage.
You're right. 34.2 on slings, 0 on that trough coil and any others I've tried that don't work in the test.
I resoldered the leads on that trough coil, still nada. I didn't strip fresh wire though, maybe I should have.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:I didn't strip fresh wire though, maybe I should have
No it's not that. Look at the big molex connectors you disconnected to remove the play field. When you put them back together one of the pins may have been pushed out.
Nothing that I could see. I unplugged, examined, and put back together. No such luck.
My running theory at this point is that my refusal to create a rotisserie when I started caused me to break some connection somewhere under the PF (from leaning this thing on walls, laying it flat on tables and boxes, etc), and generally putting it in harm's way. Now I'm going to have to trace it until I find whatever problem is causing it.
I only have continuity from to the trough coil to the solenoid driver board and its connector if the power is on. No power, no continuity. There's a break somewhere. 
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:There's a break somewhere.
Post some pics of the play field.
If I wanted to check continuity for solenoids at the connector on the PF, which would it be? That would help me at least narrow down that it is in fact a problem somewhere on the wiring there.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:If I wanted to check continuity for solenoids at the connector on the PF, which would it be? That would help me at least narrow down that it is in fact a problem somewhere on the wiring there.
If i'm not mistaken the red power wire that runs to the flashers on top of the playfield is daisy chained with most of the solenoids under the playfield. So if the two red wires are separated when you soldered the flasher your power would be stopped at the flasher and all solenoids after would not have power
Quoted from joew575:If i'm not mistaken the red power wire that runs to the flashers on top of the playfield is daisy chained with most of the solenoids under the playfield. So if the two red wires are separated when you soldered the flasher your power would be stopped at the flasher and all solenoids after would not have power
I was thinking the same exact thing, actually. Makes perfect sense. Too bad my soldering iron is refusing to actually solder anything today. Ugh.
Anyone interested in anything off this? I'm about ready to tear into it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-nos-f-14-tomcat-playfield-400-obo
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Anyone interested in anything off this? I'm about ready to tear into it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-nos-f-14-tomcat-playfield-400-obo
Wait, what's wrong with it to where you wouldn't put it in a machine?! Inserts cracked?
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Wait, what's wrong with it to where you wouldn't put it in a machine?! Inserts cracked?
An operator used this to scavenge parts off of over the years. Wiring is cut all to hell.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from Bryan_Kelly:Anyone interested in anything off this? I'm about ready to tear into it.
Edit: Sorry. Posted wrong link.
536C4BF8-56D6-45B1-B9A9-1E76A8DD2685_1_105_c (resized).jpeg6C3B5975-38FF-45ED-94F7-9F8F8CF6C6E0_1_105_c (resized).jpegQuoted from KSUWildcatFan:How are the plastics?
Trash.
Here's the correct ad.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/parting-out-a-high-speed-playfield-1
Quoted from joew575:If i'm not mistaken the red power wire that runs to the flashers on top of the playfield is daisy chained with most of the solenoids under the playfield. So if the two red wires are separated when you soldered the flasher your power would be stopped at the flasher and all solenoids after would not have power
Finally got them all wired back in and (not surprisingly) my solenoids are back. For some reason the kickback isn't firing and the top two flashers didn't flash but I THINK that's all that didn't work. So, good news there. Who would have ever thought that cutting the daisy chained power might cause a BUNCH of things to stop working...yeesh.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Anyone interested in anything off this? I'm about ready to tear into it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-nos-f-14-tomcat-playfield-400-obo
I am restoring my High Speed and would be interested in all the lamp groups. My lamp gropup connecting metal is all rusted and trashed. How is the metal on those?
Would also be interested in the diverter mechanism, spinner switches, and pivot brackets if they are not worn.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:are both green wires soldered to the center post?[quoted image]
Yes.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:I am restoring my High Speed and would be interested in all the lamp groups. My lamp gropup connecting metal is all rusted and trashed. How is the metal on those?
Would also be interested in the diverter mechanism, spinner switches, and pivot brackets if they are not worn.
I should have things cleaned up tomorrow and will have pics.
Thanks! Thought that was the case but couldn't really tell. Wrapping up the last of what I can do until parts get here. I wish I would have ordered a couple of sockets to light under the rollovers... Blah
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:I should have things cleaned up tomorrow and will have pics.
ok, thanks
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Can anyone confirm the wiring on this? My picture sucks.
Looks like white/gray screwed to the playfield but are both green wires soldered to the center post?[quoted image]
Here is a pic...
Hideout_wire_detail (resized).JPGQuoted from Pin-Pilot:Here is a pic...[quoted image]
Much better pic than the garbage I took lol. I think I'm doing okay on reassembly but not without much squinting and self-questioning over my crappy pictures lol
Unrelated, but has anyone swapped targets out before? I bought a full set of these thinking it'd be no big deal before realizing that the whole stupid stack is apparently riveted together.
Screenshot_20200311-210942 (resized).jpgScreenshot_20200311-205047 (resized).jpgScreenshot_20200311-205058 (resized).jpgHey Jordan,
I purchased a whole new set. I looked for the receipt but cannot find where I bought them from.
Marco sells a whole set... https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/TS1357
Not sure but this might be where I bought them from.
You may want to check with PBR also.
It was quite a bit of work swapping them out but I figured it was worth the work. I Molexed them all as well.
The 1-6 targets have rear mount brackets and the 3 sets of stoplight targets are all front mount brackets. I forget which ones but I did have to do some minor fanagling to mount 3 targets (I believe it was) as the mounting brackets were slightly different. (think landscape versus portrait or horizontal bracket versus vertical) The new ones were all horizontal type mount bracket and a few of the original had a mount bracket that was vertical. I may not be explaining it very well but that is the gist.
Really like what you did there! Very, very clean work and it looks awesome! I wasn't planning on replacing the entire stack, I just wanted to replace the Target blade itself. May be more trouble than it's worth tbh, or it may be something I tackle on down the road. Mine won't be quite as nice as yours though lol, I applaud the attention to detail! 
With the whole playfield swap it makes sense to replace as much as possible to get the game up to better than new standards. The mechanics will be HEP quality. The paint... yea, not HEP quality but I will get it as close as my paint talent will take me. I am mostly waiting on the new cabinet to arrive then I will be off to the races. Mostly everything is done and ready to be assembled in the cabinet.
The one thing that I am trying to figure out is the playfield pivot mount alignment. It has to be "dead on" in all dimensions. Just a little bit off and it will not be level, will pivot crooked in the cabinet or will not line up with the playfield hangers and lock bar mechanism. This will be a case of measure 100 times and drill once.
I am sure there is a system out there but as yet have not run across someone that has the solution.
At the end of this, I'll be thrilled if mine looks good and plays 'right'.. And that's about it 
I've had to resolder so many times because I routed things incorrectly..ugh. And I'm finding that most of my alignment problems are going to haunt me on the wire forms. Guess I'm getting out the drill and Xacto knife to take care of that tomorrow. At least this work will be fairly well hidden... Woof.
Overall thoughts on powdercoating wire forms on HS? Mine aren't noticeably bad, although they haven't been polished either.. my guy brought up this color as a possibility.. Looks pretty slick imo.
black-frost-with-lollypop-red-top-coat-5 (resized).jpgQuoted from KSUWildcatFan:Overall thoughts on powdercoating wire forms on HS? Mine aren't noticeably bad, although they haven't been polished either.. my guy brought up this color as a possibility.. Looks pretty slick imo.[quoted image]
I'd do green on the top 2, red on the bottom 2. That would break it up a bit.
Quoted from rwarren28806:I'd do green on the top 2, red on the bottom 2. That would break it up a bit.
That could be cool too.
I like the picture I posted, but it might be..too..."extra" for some.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Overall thoughts on powdercoating wire forms on HS? Mine aren't noticeably bad, although they haven't been polished either.. my guy brought up this color as a possibility.. Looks pretty slick imo.[quoted image]
Just my 2 cents... I have a fully restored High Speed. A friend of mine also has a very nice one. He had his wire forms re-chromed….I was very surprised at the difference from mine which were in good shape....but his looked awesome...On my to do list for sure.
I really need to give in and buy that damn ramp from you, too. Maybe I'll "accidentally" break mine while reassembling. 
Went ahead and built out the left side.. Spoiler alert, going to have to solder those back flashers AGAIN.. Didn't realize they went through the plastic.. 
I should be able to just plug in the ramp and make sure all the switches and the eject solenoid work as intended during a normal game.. Right?
Attach45022_20200312_171428 (resized).jpgIMG_20200312_170548 (resized).jpgPromoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
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