That is strange, I spoke with steve the other day and he said he did not have any. Maybe I will call with the part number.

Not damaged, just worn. The part that is mounted to the playfield is worn quite a bit. It is difficult to tell on the U shaped piece but I assume there is wear and I would rather replace them both.

Thanks Bellagio I used the part number and got 2 coming from PBR.

Have mercy please. Where does this wire thing go. I remember taking it off somewhere around the ramp. Thanks!

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it goes behind the ramp I believe to keep balls from getting stuck...more under the curved side and attaches to a screw by the light as I recall

It attaches to the post under the ramp and to the rear screw on the stop light bracket attached to the ramp.

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Here is my old playfield with a pic of the stoplight attachment point.

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Anybody seen a High Speed more blown out than mine? Hardtop is on its way!

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That is definitely in need of a re-do!

I’m glad you brought that up, my game is totally missing that. I’ll have to try to track down the part number. If I can’t find it I’ll try to make one.

Marco has them, But would be easy to make as well.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-6683

Perfect, thanks! For $5 I’ll just buy it with my next Marcos order, too lazy to make one ha ha

Disaster!

Game dead at boot after high score knocker ring.

Thanks to your guys help, I got my High Speed back together after completing a top side teardown, switching over to LEDs, and doing my first playfield touchups (which turned out quite nice).

I fired it up to play a game and everything went perfect! I was doing so good, that I got a free game! When the knocker went off, the siren sound went higher pitched and higher pitched while nothing happened in the playfield. After 20 or seconds I reset the game. Now it doesn't boot. When I say that, I mean the lights come on everywhere but the display, and pushing the start button does nothing.

I had to leave for work, but visually inspected the fuses and they looked good. I have included a few photos in case I am missing something easy.

I have the parts to replace the board in the upper right (power control board I think it's called) and re-pin the molex connector there (was going to get to that), but wanted to verify what was wrong first before possibly creating more problems.

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

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Yeah you should have really cleaned up that hack job on that connector before using the machine...I think you posted that once before as it looks familiar...you have power supply coming from the adjoining connector that dont belong...time to get the manual out...

Most likely have a bad 5 volt or 12 volt from the power supply. It needs to be rebuilt before it causes more damage.

Success!

Yeah... I was scared of that board. So scared I ordered a refurbished one off ebay 3 weeks ago when I got this machine. Not sure what the exact problem was but after replacing the connector And switching out the board it works like a charm! Here are some photos of the new board installed, the working game, and the old board.

Put on a new game, got a new high score, set off the knocker twice with no issues. Now that I have fixed the board, thrown LEDs on top, touched up the cabinet, back glass, play field and mylar all I have to do is switch out the volume knob, throw LEDs under the playfield, and this machine will go from a 4 to a 7.

Thanks guys!

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You should replace that connector...looks like the wires were just pushed back into the IDC connector ..you old board doesn't really look that bad...just needs to be cleaned up

Educate me... what the idc connector?

its the type of connector they used (and still used) on all the old pinball machines (insulation displacement connector)...I'm referring to the one where you had the wiring mess....use a trifurcon pin and a matching connector based on how many pins there are....like this one..
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=09-50-8091 with this type pin https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=08-52-0113 depending on the wire size...you may need the smaller one for the 20ga wire....get the tool on amazon... Phosphor bronze has a higher current rating than the plain tin plated brass. Great plains is a great resource for pinball related parts like this....look through their website... you could purchase everything you need on that board to rebuild it....for cheap really
I think I posted this for you a while back ...but this was mine (before I sold it) notice the connectors
highspeed (resized).jpg

How would you use the crimpers?

Ahh,
I've replaced IDC connectors before (which is why I had a 12 hole connector on hand) but I guess I never new the proper way to do it. I was under the impression you put the wire in the back of the connector and just forced it in with a small screwdriver, always worked just fine for me but I'd like to step up my game and do it the right way now. I see several different crimpers for same on amazon like this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R2JEM4 but am not sure exactly how to use something like that.

Luckily the connector in question just powers the lighting, which I have already partially switched out to LEDs and will be finishing soon. I may replace some of those spliced wires in the process of all this too. Thanks!

No you dont want to use IDC connectors so dont buy that tool..use this one HT-225D Full Cycle Ratchet Crimping Tool with interchangeable die set HT-225D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JLN93S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_N0.qEbQJ1S002 for the trifurcon connectors...buy a good pair of wire strippers too while your at it....you can find a lot if videos on you tube showing how to crimp these connectors

Is anyone interested in my old HS playfield? I sold the game and still have it...I've seen much worse, but all the inserts are intact, there is a hole or two that needs some structural filling, but good for a hardtop if yours is really shot...Just pay shipping. FREE BITCHES!
[att=5473296,1890915 caption=""
*spoken for

Pinball Karma!

I would use it! PMing you.

I've officially reached peak levels of "meh"with the shooter lane on my hardtop, and I'm willing to try an idea my friend threw out: waterslide decals, under a white painted lane. Does anyone have or know where I could find a high-res photo of a bare playfield with a nice shooter lane, taken directly above? Bonus points if there's something in the photo my wife can use for size reference to properly scale prior to printing the decal.

whats going on?

I tried clearing a bunch of times but I was getting a ton of fisheyes, especially on the edges of the lane. So I tried painting like vid detailed.. It looked bad so I wiped it off and tried gray.. Also bad..

I've been stuck for weeks just trying to get something that looks 'acceptable' so I can move forward.

Guess I should have clarified. I'm trying to install said hardtop.. It's nothing to do with the hardtop itself.

Remembered that HEP recently painted a shooter lane and exposed wood areas in a wood tone and thought you might find that interesting as a reference: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/120#post-5424026

I'm so jealous of the amount of skill and precision there. I'm in way over my head and just fumbling around in the dark like an idiot.

Joined the club!!

80 days after walking away the seller hit me up, and wanted it out of his house. I have to get my current project finished (Time Machine) before i can get into this one, but I can't wait to dig in!!

I ordered the green one off of amazon and got it in 1 day. Looks great

That does look great. Good choice

Just installed the stop light mod from @RobF, and I love it, it looks so good!

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Anyone have recent paint codes/numbers for the red and yellow colors on the cabinet? Dunn-Edwards, Behr, Sherwin-Williams. I found a couple references to colors in previous posts in this thread but nothing within a couple years (Posts 1933- 2 years old and 71- 6 years old).

My buddy used the #1933 colors last summer and it came out great.

Ok, thanks. Figured I’d ask here before I get the paint

Just grabbed High Speed today.

Needs a little clean up work on PF and Cabinet... But got a pretty good deal i think.

Will be back here for advice no doubt.

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Congrats... Looks pretty clean. One of my favorite games. Mine is currently in about 200 different pieces in the middle of a full restore.

Mine is also apart.

For $700CDN... I'm not complaining!

So I recently bought my High Speed game and I have a rather simple question I think. I was wondering if you were supposed to score points for hitting the angled slingshots - under the Turbo Boost and Oil Pressure - next to the flippers? Mine does not score any points and the rest of the game is in pretty good shape.

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Iirc on high speed, the sling activation switches are above the playfield and the scoring switch is beneath the playfield. They get activated by the sling plunger moving. Lift the playfield and clean/ inspect/adjust those switches.

Thanks gutz. I cleaned and bent the leaf scoring switch below the slingshots and now it is registering 10 points for each slingshot. I assume this is the right scoring.

Still working on my hardtop install on my high speed but I've found two issues:

Several LED bulbs are having issues flashing correctly according to the program (especially bad in the center bonus matrix -- they're fine with 44s). The 1-2-3 inserts were having similar issues--1 and 3 wouldn't go off, but 2 seemed to be blinking properly. Any suggestions? Maybe some bad diodes? I tried non ghosting bulbs but that didn't seem to make much (if any) difference. Boards have already been completely refurbished.

Issue 2, I KNOW I don't have everything fully back together on this (I still need to solder all topside flashers back in and I need to finish reassembly with pops, rollovers, wireforms, etc but after hooking it all back up (originally just to look at the GI because I wanted to make sure I would like the bulbs I chose before I started stacking things on top) I'm only getting a few solenoids to respond in the test:

Police light
Insert flasher
GI (11)
Knocker
Coin lockout
Left sling
Right sling
All three jet bumpers

I checked all the fuses I could think of and they all had continuity. I checked under the PF to see if there was some oddball fuse like there is on F14.. But saw nothing. I have NOT yet tried to manually fire any coils on the transistors themselves. Am I just jumping the gun on expecting my solenoids to work, given my progress with the hardtop? I wasn't specifically looking at that right now, but now my head is wrapped around trying to figure out why..

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Hadn't really been able to do much with my new HS I got as it's been parked in my Dads garage since I got it.... was there yesterday and I hadn't noticed before that some jackass drilled three wood screw to the left of the bottom pop bumper. Who does this and why????! (will take pics in the future) Looks like that hardtop will be in the plans going forward.

Just judging from throwing a ball around a bit inside on mine, it's crazy how much smoother it is than before. I kind of knew what to expect, having bought a hardtopped space shuttle, but it's like glass. I'm excited to see how it alters the play of an already fast Ritchie game.. If I can figure out why my solenoids suddenly aren't working, anyway

Holy hell, can someone take a picture of their slings, specifically showing how the scoring stack mounts? I have no idea why, but I'm just not seeing it.

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It mounts with the screws thru the arm hold down. The leaf switch touches the silver extension. Plunger pulls in, switch leaf drops and score is made.
Push the arm to playfield and mount switch to two holes in arm bracket.
Screws go thru switch and bracket.
Not sure i make sense......