4 Aces
Williams, 1970
Baby Pac-Man
Bally, 1982
Buck Rogers
Mambelli, 1980
Camel Lights
Game Plan, 1978
Comet
Williams, 1985
Cyclone
Williams, 1988
Genesis
Gottlieb, 1986
Getaway: High Speed II, The
Williams, 1992One of the things I did when I restored mine was to not use those original low profile GI sockets with the running stapled wire. Turned out pretty good. I believe I had to use just one original sockets to clear a rollover switch arm. I also had to replace one of the light bars with individual sockets as one of the small springs that keep tension on one of the bulbs was missing. But I feel ya...lots of work and almost everything needs to be soldered.
Quoted from monkfe:One of the things I did when I restored mine was to not use those original low profile GI sockets with the running stapled wire. Turned out pretty good. I believe I had to use just one original sockets to clear a rollover switch arm. I also had to replace one of the light bars with individual sockets as one of the small springs that keep tension on one of the bulbs was missing. But I feel ya...lots of work and almost everything needs to be soldered.
There is not a lot of the GI sockets that need the bare wire run. It was not too bad. The only thing is the sockets I ordered from Pinball life were not great quality. The metal wall is very thin and does not hold the bulb in place on both sides. Discovered this after I installed them. I may have to swap them out.
Joined the High Speed club yesterday with a players machine. Machine plays 100%, but playfield is a little rough and there are a couple of small issues. I had a few questions for you guys.
1. The volume knob on mine is a little wonky. I've lowered the volume all the way and it is still too loud. I am debating just throwing in a potentiometer to cut down the volume more, but didn't know if there was an issue with the board causing it. It seems like the sound effects are way louder than the music.
2. There is a loud humming noise that goes in concert with the lighting on the playfield. It's not all switched over to LEDs. I may just switch it over and see if it helps with the sound.
3. For those of you that have done a playfield swap or hardtop. How many hours of work do you guys think it is on this game? I will probably leave it as is. I figure that a working high speed with playfield mostly in tact would fetch $1800-$2000 at a show. This will have to move to make room for Rick and Morty down the road anyways. If it's a 20 hour or less job though, I might just go for it for the fun of it.
20200126_170656 (resized).jpgQuoted from SantaEatsCheese:3. For those of you that have done a playfield swap or hardtop. How many hours of work do you guys think it is on this game? I will probably leave it as is. I figure that a working high speed with playfield mostly in tact would fetch $1800-$2000 at a show. This will have to move to make room for Rick and Morty down the road anyways. If it's a 20 hour or less job though, I might just go for it for the fun of it.[quoted image]
It really depends on whether you've done a swap before and how equipped you are for it. It also depends how much work you want to do. Some folks are clearing the whole playfield after sanding, some are just sanding and making sure inserts look good, some are doing work on the shooter lane etc etc.
I'll be hardtopping mine soon and would guess it will take me ~50 hours. I have done a couple playfield swaps though and am not as much of a detail oriented restorer as some. I will clean up the above playfield parts but won't mess too much with stuff on the under side.
I'd be interested in the answer to #2 as well. I already have all LEDs and you can hear the change in background him when the lights cycle, especially in attract mode.
Quoted from MikeVarney:I'd be interested in the answer to #2 as well. I already have all LEDs and you can hear the change in background him when the lights cycle, especially in attract mode.
Same here. Full LED and I have the hum.
Quoted from MJW:Same here. Full LED and I have the hum.
My High Speed Had the hum also. I was not intentionally trying to fix the hum but I needed a new power supply. I ordered a 3rd party Powersupply (don't recall the brand right now) instated it and the hum went away. food for thought. re-capping stock power supply may help as well.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Joined the High Speed club yesterday with a players machine. Machine plays 100%, but playfield is a little rough and there are a couple of small issues. I had a few questions for you guys.
1. The volume knob on mine is a little wonky. I've lowered the volume all the way and it is still too loud. I am debating just throwing in a potentiometer to cut down the volume more, but didn't know if there was an issue with the board causing it. It seems like the sound effects are way louder than the music.
2. There is a loud humming noise that goes in concert with the lighting on the playfield. It's not all switched over to LEDs. I may just switch it over and see if it helps with the sound.
3. For those of you that have done a playfield swap or hardtop. How many hours of work do you guys think it is on this game? I will probably leave it as is. I figure that a working high speed with playfield mostly in tact would fetch $1800-$2000 at a show. This will have to move to make room for Rick and Morty down the road anyways. If it's a 20 hour or less job though, I might just go for it for the fun of it.[quoted image]
I am currently in the middle of a complete restore. The playfield is a big job. However I am doing a lot of extras like Molex connectors on all switches and solenoids. I am probably 30+ hours into it and maybe 1/2 way done with the Playfield. I am cleaning all the brackets as I go as well so that is taking a lot of time. All the hardware is rusty so I am replacing 99% of the screws and bolts on the playfield.
Take a look at my post #2996 on the previous page. I posted a few pictures of the progress.
Good luck with whatever route you decide to go.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:My High Speed Had the hum also. I was not intentionally trying to fix the hum but I needed a new power supply. I ordered a 3rd party Powersupply (don't recall the brand right now) instated it and the hum went away. food for thought. re-capping stock power supply may help as well.
Thanks but I also have a new 3rd party power supply.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:3. For those of you that have done a playfield swap or hardtop. How many hours of work do you guys think it is on this game?
I just finished installing a Hardtop on mine. Probably 30 hours of work to do just the basic minimum for the Hardtop install plus a full shop and cleanup of all the playfield parts. I did not clearcoat anything and only sanded the inserts and right around them. Polished them as clear as a reasonable amount of work would give, but that's all. It looks very good. It would probably have gone faster if I was a better tech and didn't do things the stupid way a few times. Ya gotta learn somewhere. 
Quoted from MJW:Thanks but I also have a new 3rd party power supply.
Another source is boards not properly grounded. Have you checked to make sure everything is grounded very well!
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:My High Speed Had the hum also. I was not intentionally trying to fix the hum but I needed a new power supply. I ordered a 3rd party Powersupply (don't recall the brand right now) instated it and the hum went away. food for thought. re-capping stock power supply may help as well.
1. So after opening up my High Speed and really looking at the Power Control board... I am scared of my pinball machine. I just ordered a reconditioned board off of Ebay that looks brand new for $60 and a set of 200 molex connectors off of amazon for $15 to fix this mess. Hopefully this will fix the loud humming noises on my machine and will make comfortable enough to sleep at night without worrying about the house burning down. This board was one of the last original boards in the machine. I'm sure someone will want a System 11 board to tinker with.
2. The volume on my high speed does not go below movie theater sound commercial levels. I may be imagining things, but it seems the sound effects are way louder than the music when I play. The simple fix should be to just add a supplemental potentiometer (primitive volume knob/resistor) in the wiring before the stock volume knob. Would I add that knob below the left, middle, or right connector?
3. My playfield really isn't that bad when I step back and look at things. I have sourced another original pop cap and center plastic off of ebay. I may attempt a little touchup here and there (like the red in the drain on the left) but will probably just leave it as is as I'm going to have to let this (or my new Taxi) go when I get the call for Rick and Morty. The only thing that's really bothering me is the mylar by the right drop... maybe some glue... If I did anything beyond that it would be a hardtop, but I don't know that this machine warrants it.
4. Machine plays pretty much perfectly (except for the volume). I did notice that since I leveled the machine when the ball pops from the capture hole to feed the right flipper, it tends to bounce off of the side rail and make the ramp shot about impossible. I'll have to fidget with it and see if I can adjust it.
20200127_194432 (resized).jpg20200127_193609 (resized).jpg20200127_194254 (resized).jpgQuoted from SantaEatsCheese:1. So after opening up my High Speed and really looking at the Power Control board... I am scared of my pinball machine. I just ordered a reconditioned board off of Ebay that looks brand new for $60 and a set of 200 molex connectors off of amazon for $15 to fix this mess. Hopefully this will fix the loud humming noises on my machine and will make comfortable enough to sleep at night without worrying about the house burning down. This board was one of the last original boards in the machine. I'm sure someone will want a System 11 board to tinker with.
2. The volume on my high speed does not go below movie theater sound commercial levels. I may be imagining things, but it seems the sound effects are way louder than the music when I play. The simple fix should be to just add a supplemental potentiometer (primitive volume knob/resistor) in the wiring before the stock volume knob. Would I add that knob below the left, middle, or right connector?
3. My playfield really isn't that bad when I step back and look at things. I have sourced another original pop cap and center plastic off of ebay. I may attempt a little touchup here and there (like the red in the drain on the left) but will probably just leave it as is as I'm going to have to let this (or my new Taxi) go when I get the call for Rick and Morty. The only thing that's really bothering me is the mylar by the right drop... maybe some glue... If I did anything beyond that it would be a hardtop, but I don't know that this machine warrants it.
4. Machine plays pretty much perfectly (except for the volume). I did notice that since I leveled the machine when the ball pops from the capture hole to feed the right flipper, it tends to bounce off of the side rail and make the ramp shot about impossible. I'll have to fidget with it and see if I can adjust it.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Dude, that playfield looks great. Rock it!
I have a reworked power supply if you need one and a MPU and a flipper board and a display board. All gone over by one of the best.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:really looking at the Power Control board... I am scared of my pinball machine.
I can fix this for you or will buy it from you to fix for someone else.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:The simple fix should be to just add a supplemental potentiometer
No you can replace the current pot with a larger resistance one. This way there is only one to adjust and still looks original.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:The only thing that's really bothering me is the mylar by the right drop... maybe some glue...
Just remove it and clean off the glue then apply a new piece of mylar.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:I did notice that since I leveled the machine when the ball pops from the capture hole to feed the right flipper, it tends to bounce off of the side rail and make the ramp shot about impossible.
Adjust the flipper out away from the side a bit until the ball rolls smooth down the side.
Quoted from woody76:Dude, that playfield looks great. Rock it!
I have a reworked power supply if you need one and a MPU and a flipper board and a display board. All gone over by one of the best.
Thanks! I just ordered a really nice looking one for cheaps off of ebay. Everything else seems to be working solid.
Quoted from GRUMPY:I can fix this for you or will buy it from you to fix for someone else.
No you can replace the current pot with a larger resistance one. This way there is only one to adjust and still looks original.
Just remove it and clean off the glue then apply a new piece of mylar.
Adjust the flipper out away from the side a bit until the ball rolls smooth down the side.
I will definitely look into a larger pot. In the meantime I am going to throw in an extra potentiometer because I have one on hand. After thinking about things logically I think it would go in line with the red wire and could be stashed out of sight.
I have heard bad things about pulling mylar on system 11's. I did it on a Whitewater, but I'm worried about pulling paint on a High speed. Anyone have experience with this one? It would be just the piece by the right bumper.
I understand the logic about moving the flipper. The problem isn't the ball rolling off of the flipper, it is the ball edjecting from the out hole and bouncing off of the railing. I can hit it up the ramp just fine when it is rolling against the railing, but when it bounces off (which it does every time now) I can't make the shot even with my strong flippers.
Thanks all!
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:Another source is boards not properly grounded. Have you checked to make sure everything is grounded very well!
All the boards have every screw and ground straps are all secure. There are a couple threads on this issue but not having any success. Thanks.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:1. So after opening up my High Speed and really looking at the Power Control board... I am scared of my pinball machine. I just ordered a reconditioned board off of Ebay that looks brand new for $60 and a set of 200 molex connectors off of amazon for $15 to fix this mess. Hopefully this will fix the loud humming noises on my machine and will make comfortable enough to sleep at night without worrying about the house burning down. This board was one of the last original boards in the machine. I'm sure someone will want a System 11 board to tinker with.
2. The volume on my high speed does not go below movie theater sound commercial levels. I may be imagining things, but it seems the sound effects are way louder than the music when I play. The simple fix should be to just add a supplemental potentiometer (primitive volume knob/resistor) in the wiring before the stock volume knob. Would I add that knob below the left, middle, or right connector?
3. My playfield really isn't that bad when I step back and look at things. I have sourced another original pop cap and center plastic off of ebay. I may attempt a little touchup here and there (like the red in the drain on the left) but will probably just leave it as is as I'm going to have to let this (or my new Taxi) go when I get the call for Rick and Morty. The only thing that's really bothering me is the mylar by the right drop... maybe some glue... If I did anything beyond that it would be a hardtop, but I don't know that this machine warrants it.
4. Machine plays pretty much perfectly (except for the volume). I did notice that since I leveled the machine when the ball pops from the capture hole to feed the right flipper, it tends to bounce off of the side rail and make the ramp shot about impossible. I'll have to fidget with it and see if I can adjust it.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
check the wiring on the hacked connector, this is how mine is wired...Looks like a molex connector is connected in there somewhere and tapped off the other power output? Put some fuses on the bridge rectifiers too- 8amp fuses.
highspeed (resized).jpg
Quoted from monkfe:check the wiring on the hacked connector, this is how mine is wired...Looks like a molex connector is connected in there somewhere and tapped off the other power output?[quoted image]
Thanks for the reference photo! My replacement should be in next week and I'll use this. I'll let you guys know if it fixes the humming.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Thanks for the reference photo! My replacement should be in next week and I'll use this. I'll let you guys know if it fixes the humming.
Have you checked you power supply voltages going to your sound board?
Quoted from monkfe:Have you checked you power supply voltages going to your sound board?
Not yet. Throwing a refurbished board in there first. There is heavy corrosion in parts of my existing board along with some questionable wiring. If it doesn't fix the issue I will continue to troubleshoot and start with the voltages going to the sound board. Thanks for the suggestion!
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:1. So after opening up my High Speed and really looking at the Power Control board... I am scared of my pinball machine. I just ordered a reconditioned board off of Ebay that looks brand new for $60 and a set of 200 molex connectors off of amazon for $15 to fix this mess. Hopefully this will fix the loud humming noises on my machine and will make comfortable enough to sleep at night without worrying about the house burning down. This board was one of the last original boards in the machine. I'm sure someone will want a System 11 board to tinker with.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
You should also add the fuses to the rectifies just below the PS board. Important modification in the event one of the rectifiers goes tits-up. That can prevent the game from going up in flames as well. You can see the 2 fuses between the BR's in the picture monkfe posted.
Here is the post>>>>> https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6/page/2#post-945745
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:I will definitely look into a larger pot.
See what size yours is, I probably have a larger size I could send you.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:I have heard bad things about pulling mylar on system 11's. I did it on a Whitewater, but I'm worried about pulling paint on a High speed. Anyone have experience with this one?
I took off all the mylar on mine, I took my time and had no problems. But system 11 mylar glue is a pain in the ass to remove.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:The problem isn't the ball rolling off of the flipper, it is the ball edjecting from the out hole and bouncing off of the railing.
How much slope does your game have, the steeper the game the quicker the ball will roll to rail.
Quoted from MikeVarney:I'd be interested in the answer to #2 as well. I already have all LEDs and you can hear the change in background him when the lights cycle, especially in attract mode.
I found the issue that was causing a loud buzzing while in attract mode. It is a grounding issue with the potentiometer (volume knob) itself. I was in the process of switching out the potentiometer (which I did but used too small of one so now it's even louder) when I ran out of butane for my soldering iron. The red and black wires were left unplugged so no sound should be coming through the machine right? Wrong! I have sound at a reasonable level. I'd like to turn it up a little, but it is just fine for my house for now and I will leave it as be until I can get the correct part in.
As a side effect THE HUMMING NOISE WENT AWAY!!! I also discovered that if I touch the black wire to the grounding plate the potentiometer is on, the humming noise comes back. So, if you have issues with a loud humming noise going in concert with your lighting, it is most likely a grounding issue with the speaker wire with a prime suspect being an older poteniometer bent into the grounding plate.
Below is an extremely low quality video describing the buzz and how to possibly fix it.
Thanks guys!
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:I found the issue that was causing a loud buzzing while in attract mode. It is a grounding issue with the potentiometer (volume knob) itself. I was in the process of switching out the potentiometer (which I did but used too small of one so now it's even louder) when I ran out of butane for my soldering iron. The red and black wires were left unplugged so no sound should be coming through the machine right? Wrong! I have sound at a reasonable level. I'd like to turn it up a little, but it is just fine for my house for now and I will leave it as be until I can get the correct part in.
As a side effect THE HUMMING NOISE WENT AWAY!!! I also discovered that if I touch the black wire to the grounding plate the potentiometer is on, the humming noise comes back. So, if you have issues with a loud humming noise going in concert with your lighting, it is most likely a grounding issue with the speaker wire with a prime suspect being an older poteniometer bent into the grounding plate.
Below is an extremely low quality video describing the buzz and how to possibly fix it.
Thanks guys!
Good to see you found the issue! 
Quoted from MJW:Some guy in Canada selling these on eBay. Looks pretty good. Matches spinners and attaches with Velcro.[quoted image]
Do you have a link for that? I tried searching and could not find it. Looks like a good way to cover that ugly bracket.
Quoted from MJW:Some guy in Canada selling these on eBay. Looks pretty good. Matches spinners and attaches with Velcro.[quoted image]
Got a link?
Quoted from CanadianPinball:Got a link?
E6D63A77-16D1-4751-AEBD-B7736F74A259 (resized).pngQuoted from CanadianPinball:Got a link?
I had Tantrums caution high speed decal first but new one looks better.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from MJW:I had Tantrums caution high speed decal first but new one looks better.[quoted image]
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:I found the issue that was causing a loud buzzing while in attract mode. It is a grounding issue with the potentiometer (volume knob) itself. I was in the process of switching out the potentiometer (which I did but used too small of one so now it's even louder) when I ran out of butane for my soldering iron. The red and black wires were left unplugged so no sound should be coming through the machine right? Wrong! I have sound at a reasonable level. I'd like to turn it up a little, but it is just fine for my house for now and I will leave it as be until I can get the correct part in.
As a side effect THE HUMMING NOISE WENT AWAY!!! I also discovered that if I touch the black wire to the grounding plate the potentiometer is on, the humming noise comes back. So, if you have issues with a loud humming noise going in concert with your lighting, it is most likely a grounding issue with the speaker wire with a prime suspect being an older poteniometer bent into the grounding plate.
Below is an extremely low quality video describing the buzz and how to possibly fix it.
Thanks guys!
Thanks for posting. I’ll try mine.
Quoted from CanadianPinball:ebay.com link » High Speed Pinball Mod Twin Interstate Freeway Diverter Sign
That link works, I tried searching myself but came up empty, but I was on ebay.ca.
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:That link works, I tried searching myself but came up empty, but I was on ebay.ca.
Sure. However, if you're an Amazon Prime user, you can buy it from this link and get free shipping. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083LFMDMC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00
Quoted from detroitzoran:Sure. However, if you're an Amazon Prime user, you can buy it from this link and get free shipping. amazon.com link »
Ordered! I'm a sucker for mods.
Quoted from detroitzoran:Sure. However, if you're an Amazon Prime user, you can buy it from this link and get free shipping. amazon.com link »
just ordered one through prime, thanks for posting. Mod looks great
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:I have heard bad things about pulling mylar on system 11's.
I removed the mylar on my High Speed. It was the full mylar that I understand shipped with the machine.
Not sure when yours was applied but I knew my game had been used and THEN the mylar went on. I knew by the wear and the dirt trapped underneath. If yours was day one then it may be different. YMMV
Tried heat and it began pulling paint.
I froze it and had it off in about 20 minutes with almost no loss of paint.
Also, I did not use those silly cans of keyboard spray.
Quoted from vec-tor:pin-pilot question.
Where did you get the color wires for the Switch Strobes/GI ?
I am having trouble finding those kind of things for restorations.
regards, vec-tor.
Excellent job on the High Speed.
I ordered it from Bay Area Amusements (bayareaamusements.com), which has just merged with PPS. They sell it in 22 and 18 gauge. I used to Search "wire" on Bay Area web page but it does not work as well on PPS site. ( I was inspired by High_End_Pins when I saw his wire collection) It was a MUST to keep the wiring color correct on my
High Speed restoration. I am installing all molex connectors on Solenoids, switches and targets for easy maintenance and repairs.
I have collected quite a bit of wire now both in 18 and 22 gauge in many color combinations (not cheap but worth it to me). I use 18 for solenoids, relays, etc and 22 gauge for switches.
Here is a pic of the mechanical buildup as of today. I am almost ready to transfer the wire harness over, just a couple more switches to move.
IMG_4853 (resized).jpgSantaEatsCheese :
Its too bad they did not put that mylar a little further to the right.
On my game, i touched up the red car, repainted the white on the cruisers and completely repainted all of the roadways before clearcoat.
If you are going to touch up, i can give you the color list i used. Every game ages differently so matching colors is hit or miss.
I removed the full mylar by freezing it. You could just run an exacto knife under a plastic and only remove the affected area. Then touch it up and cut in new mylar.
I am in the middle of my High Speed restoration. I am looking to replace the Playfield mounting brackets. I was able to find the part that attaches directly to the playfield but cannot find anyone that sells the other half that is attached to the inside cabinet. (see picture). Anyone know where I can find 2 of these brackets? Thanks. I have searched but cannot find any.
TIA
IMG_4891 (resized).JPGQuoted from Pin-Pilot:I am in the middle of my High Speed restoration. I am looking to replace the Playfield mounting brackets. I was able to find the part that attaches directly to the playfield but cannot find anyone that sells the other half that is attached to the inside cabinet. (see picture). Anyone know where I can find 2 of these brackets? Thanks. I have searched but cannot find any.
TIA[quoted image]
Call TNT Amusements, see if they have any.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Call TNT Amusements, see if they have any.
Ok, Thanks, I will do that.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:Ok, Thanks, I will do that.
I am.shocked that the vendors don't have this part. If all else, it can be made. I have my high speed torn down, I would be happy to provide measurements.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:I am in the middle of my High Speed restoration. I am looking to replace the Playfield mounting brackets. I was able to find the part that attaches directly to the playfield but cannot find anyone that sells the other half that is attached to the inside cabinet. (see picture). Anyone know where I can find 2 of these brackets? Thanks. I have searched but cannot find any.
TIA[quoted image]
I bought replacements for my restoration (still waiting on the cabinet to be finished). The part number is 01-8250. I got them from Pinball Resource.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:I am in the middle of my High Speed restoration. I am looking to replace the Playfield mounting brackets. I was able to find the part that attaches directly to the playfield but cannot find anyone that sells the other half that is attached to the inside cabinet. (see picture). Anyone know where I can find 2 of these brackets? Thanks. I have searched but cannot find any.
TIA[quoted image]
Are your pieces actual damaged? Few minutes on a buffer and they would shine like new.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:I am.shocked that the vendors don't have this part. If all else, it can be made. I have my high speed torn down, I would be happy to provide measurements.
I am replacing both pieces on each side. I was a little surprised I could not find them either.
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Toms River, NJ
Dunakeszi