Classic Arcades on eBay.

Yeah, tried there. Looks like he does not have them anymore either.

I bought a set 6 months ago for my resto. Only need 1. I’ll look when I’m back in town this weekend and make sure they are correct. Willing to part with the extras if that would help.

PBR cap + waterslide decal https://www.maaca.org/download/file.php?id=6630

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-club-dispatch-this-is-504-we-have-a-club-now-over#post-1227021

I picked up these repro caps from a seller 5 years ago. Wish I could remember who produced them. Be nice if they could do another run!

HS Caps.pdf

Those are the classicarcades set

Did you contact jeff at classic?
His are not ribbed but they are good if you have none.
He is always advertising them on ebay.
He produces them himself i believe

Several places have the basic cap, with the correct center emblem, but no radial lines around the edge.
Steve Young has those much less expensive than anyone else, including the Ebay people.

I might either use the caps Steve has, with a decal from the image posted above for the lines, or I might put the old ones back on. I might be able to position them to where the chips in them don't really show.

Hey folks, I got a picture for a High Speed I'm checking out - it looked to me at first that this might be faded, but looking at other pictures on the internet I'm not so sure. What do you guys think?

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Doesn't look bad to me. The only one I ever saw really faded, had a pinkish look to it.

I think your good, just needs some LED treatment

What I mean is that Classic Arcades makes them with the radius lines around the outer edge but they are not embossed into the cap like the originals.
I would shoot him an email.
If there is a demand he will make more.

I am sure this answer is right in front of me, however does anyone know how to get the ramp decal for the clear High Speed ramp?
I just purchased a high speed pinball with a clear ramp and noticed that some guys have the decal. Is there only one company making this clear ramp ?
Any help would be appreciated thank you.

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not sure about decal, but your playfield looks amazing

Reach out to mrtantrum I believe is his name...if you look back a bit I posted his info...he made that for me but said he would sell more if there was interest...ask about the decal for the metal bracket under the ramp too...seen here
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Thank you , I wish I could take the credit. I like it also but I think the ramp decal and maybe some led's would make it pop.

WOW , Now that does look amazing . Thank you very much I will see if I can find him.

I found it a few pages back...mr_tantrum ...

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Thanks again

No problem, just keep in mind to install these right you need to remove the ramp switch assy by removing the rivets and then reinstalling it after the decal is in place...you could cut it at the point the switch starts, but that would look hackish to me.

Maybe I'm late to the party, but who makes that caution sign? It looks pretty cool, I could be interested in adding it to my machine

Mr_tantrum ..he can put what ever you want on it...he has the size...I wanted it to look like a sign you might see under a bridge...and threw some "high speed" into it

Hi guys
I ordered a decal that goes under the ramp for high-speed from Mr Tantrum.
Unfortunately looking at my game today I realize whoever put the clear ramp on mine did not put the metal bracket back on that this decal will mount to.
Is this bracket necessary ? I know I will need it to put the decal on.
The game seems to be playing fine without it other than seeing some of the wires . If it is necessary does anyone have access to one?
Thank you much

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I would guess it protects the wires/switches from an air ball/pop bumper action...

I was thinking the same thing. I was hoping it was not for ramp support. Thank you again for the decal information.

You could probably fahricate a replacement. Or maybe someone has one in their spare parts pile.

I might have one or know someone who does

Thanks Woody76 , if it's not a support I will just fab something.

Question about the warming resistors and LED flashers.
After reading some other posts re: Systems11 games that are using LED flashers, I am confused about how many warming resistors I should be removing and if they're used for any other purpose other then the flashers?

I replaced all the incandescent bulbs with LED's including all the flashers.
When doing this on High Speed, the flashers stay on all the time. Looking through the forums online for an answer, I see that the problem is the 330 ohm resistor (warming resistors), and that disconnecting one leg (I de-soldered one leg so it can easily be converted back) on these to get the LED flashers under the banana inserts to operate correctly now. The forums have details for other System11 games and mention High Speed in them.

I initially removed the 330 ohm resistors on "A" tested and nothing changed - then removed "B" and was able to get the 8 LED's in the radar inserts to operate properly.

I still have issues with the 4 flashers on the playfield under the red domes, the 2 in the back under the ramp, and the 4 behind the backglass. I see there are 3 more 330 ohm resistors on the playfield (marked with ? in the photo) that I can remove.

Before I go any further, I am questioning if these 330 ohm resistors safe to keep removing as I find them? Are these resistors used for anything other than the flashers? I don't want to inadvertently be creating another issue on the game.

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Each pair of flasher bulbs has one warming resistor. So the blue inserts have 4 pairs of bulbs and four resistors. There should be a pair of red flashers on the left and the right side and a pair at the top of the play field. And 2 more pairs on the insert board. That would be a total of 9 resistors that need to be disconnected.

Thanks Grumpy!

One more quick question. When I test 'all lights' the Drive Again light works. However, it doesn't work during game play at any point. I'm not sure where to begin troubleshooting this problem. Searching online doesn't see to lead me anywhere.

Did you obtain an extra ball in your game play?...to have the light come on?

You need to light the inlanes. Then you need run the inlane and then the freeway, this will light a freeway bonus. Do this 5 times to light the extra ball. Then collect the extra ball by going into the eject hole. This will light the drive again lamp.

LED stoplight finished and now available! Details here; https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-led-stoplight#post-5413329

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Wow, that light is slick.

Could use some advice: Just popped a swapped playfield back into the cab and reconnected everything. Coils, GI, controlled lamps, cpu, display all work.

Test mode switches are dead. The switches I can test NOT in test mode I can tell don’t work include Start button, coin door test buttons, the outhole (it won’t kick a ball over). Coin chutes do work.

I thought test buttons were outside the matrix on j14, which works the burins when I short pins, well, it gets to the music test and nothing else.

Sooo... Why are they dead? I noticed grey/grn goes to the buttons which very much is in the matrix. So confused.

Any ideas how I can enter/advance test mode with shorting pins? And what the heck could be wrong?

Is the connector hooked up to the CPU 1J14? Is the harness connected to the coin door?

Yep both connectors are good!

For all the switches to not work, I would check continuity of the white wire from the switches to the cpu board.

Well I was able to jump the pins on j14 and get into switch test.

So much weirdness, several matrix switches stuck on or not working. So something to go on.

NO idea why test switches out of the matrix aren’t working! There’s a solid green ground that goes from the coin door test buttons to ??? J14 has no green...

Also: Start button works in test, but won’t start a game. Plenty of creds. Why?!

Did it get pulled out of the connector?

No balls, or miss adjusted or dirty ball switch.

Update: The coin door test button was bad

Now I’m in the test mode and there are plenty of switch issues (easy) and no special solenoids are working (ugh).

Well, that is a start!

Do they work in solenoid test?

Been making progress on my High Speed restoration. At some point this game was in a very damp environment. Every screw is corroded, every screw that screws into the wood is rusty. I am replacing all hardware. Finding #5 hardware is one of the biggest challenges. Completed the GI wiring on the new playfield. Made a couple wiring mods to clean up redundant/extra wire runs. Also found a couple wire colors that were incorrect color. I assume that during initial assemble they ran out of correct wire colors and just used what they had on hand. I also replaced all the fake wood rails with real Oak wood. Got lots of work to do but it is getting there.
Jan20_2 (resized).JPGStapling and wiring GI lightsJan21_6 (resized).JPGInstalled standup targets todayjan25-5 (resized).JPGProgress from a couple days agoJan21 (resized).JPGTodays progressJan25-3 (resized).JPGJan25_1 (resized).JPGPF_L_Freeway (resized).JPGPF_R_Drain_andwire (resized).JPGNew hardware
New_hdwr (resized).JPGOld Rusty hardware. Every screw & bolt I have taken off is this bad. Taking lots of extra time finding, ordering new hardwareOld_rusty_hdwr (resized).JPG

Looks good man, keep up the hard work! Been there myself and know what a challenge it is. Be meticulous with your wiring and it will all pay off!

Sooo shiny!!!

Thanks, It is definitely a LOT of work. Measure twice cut once, it's a good motto. Anything that is old or worn is being replaced. So far everything has gone without any snafus. My big challenge will be painting the cabinet. I am good with electrical and mechanical aspect. Reading DANGERTERROR posts above about issues after assembly sure adds some anxiety into the process.

Love getting rid of all the old rust and replacing with fresh clean metal.