Hi All,

Just upgrading the flippers to Vid's guide, and have come across what I would see as a big problem.

I have renewed everything except the bats

When fitting the bats to adjust the eos & lane change switches (out of the play-field) I noticed that the shaft for the bat slops around in the new bushing quite a lot.

Is this normal or is it because I am using the original bats and new bushing, or the new bushing is wrong (all the parts were as what Vid listed on the rebuild/upgrade) The bat shaft is 6.3mm 0r 0.2480" The bushing hole is 6.6mm or 0.2598" is the ok as they move quite a lot.

Thank you for any help on this.

I need a new traffic light, so I DEFINITELY want one when done!

What are the part numbers of the parts you used? Pics?

Hi Monkfe,

The bushing was bought from the PinBall-Centre, this is there ref number 15011 which cross reference to Part No.: 03-7568, GTB-A2408. the 03-7568 is the Williams number on the HS manual.

This is the link to that page: https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/flipper-components/flipper-bushings/2156/flipper-bushing-bally/williams-gottlieb

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.011 doesn't seem like too much play to me...there is a small bit of "wiggle", but other than that they're snug. You said they were on the bench, we're not talking about "up and down" play here correct? Which would be adjusted by the clamp and gauge once installed.

No not up and down play.....side to side play. I don't think they are snug as the bat moves 1.5mm or 0.0590" side to side in any direction with a credit card to space it from the bushing. the bottom end of the bat shaft moves over 3mm or 0.1180".

Is that ok or way out

you said" The bat shaft is 6.3mm 0r 0.2480" The bushing hole is 6.6mm or 0.2598" is the ok as they move quite a lot." So that's a clearance of .011, not .11 which is a huge difference...I measured my bat shaft and it measures 6.6mm as well. I don't have a spare bushing to measure that for you.

Ok thank you Monkfe,

Will put them in as is and see what happens, may be just me and the mechanic within...lol

Here are all three flippers, 110% as found, in my train wreck of a Highspeed.

Which is working now by the way! Even the Beacon works! Soon I’ll order a hardtop for it.

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Looking to join the High Speed club, but I've run into an unrealistic seller.... My question is; how much would you pay for this high speed? The owner doesn't have the cabinet key, which he failed to disclose before I drove an hour to check out, playfield is shot, cab has heavy flaking, backglass has a pretty good amount of cracking, the is an "adjust failure" fault, and it's obviously not been cleaned in years as he's never opened it.. on the plus side; the plastic looks good, and the boards looked good without any battery damage... What do the experts on here think is a fair price???

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I paid $100 for mine, in slightly better shape. So, not much.

Move on, unless you are a sadist and enjoy pain. a GOOD example can be found for $1400

If you put a Hardtop on it, it’s salvageable. But, that’s $300 + a lot of labor, presuming you’re up for that.

Having put a Hardtop on mine, I will say that it was well worth the effort. Not a project for the timid, though.

Given the condition of the playfield, I’d presume you’d want to do full rebuilds on all three flippers and who knows what the underside looks like. Might be hacks galore under there. He should be willing to drill the lock out so you can see. Someone will have to do it eventually.

With all of that, it would be hard to go over $750 given what you can - and can’t - see here. If it ends up being clean underneath, maybe a grand, bit only if you want to Hardtop or can find an inexpensive playfield to swap.

Note: I am likely more forgiving with my pricing than most.

My plan was to put a hardtop on, and I was thinking originally thinking I could do $700 before I found out he didn't have a key and had never done any maintenance.

Thanks for the input, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't being unreasonable..

I saw your pick up, and I was jealous that I can never uncover projects like that!

It is going to be a LOT of work to fix. I have it "working" now, but needs everything rebuilt, plus the hardtop and head repair. Realistically, I will lose my ass on this one. But, I plan to route it for a while, so that will help even it out some.

Ordinarily, I would have run away from this hot mess. Also, There is no way I would give $700 for that,

OP never says whether or not the game plays. That would be a factor in pricing it.

Doesn't play, has "adjust failure" fault that can't get cleared as there is no key to get to the diagnostic controls

as I recall I believe that comes up after the batteries are replaced. easy to get rid of...but yeah...need that key

Sadly we couldn't come together on a price, so I won't be joining the club for the foreseeable future.. back to stripping the playfield on my current project, Time Machine..

We now have original WMS tooling High Speed Traffic Lights in Stock B-10999 in stock ... previously only repro, but have run the tooling with the original manufacturer ...

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-B-10999

High Speed Wire Form set for sale; Pm me if Interested, Thanks

Parts - For Sale

Wire forms -Complete sets 4 Sale. FT, Hurricane, High Speed Archived

Used, good condition - “I have 3 sets of wire forms available. All are in great shape. No breaks, nice welds, no rust. Fish Tales= $350 shipped 4pc set Hurricane= $200 shipped 3 pc set High Speed$200 shi...”

2020-03-24

Anaheim, CA

Ericpinballfan

0

Archived after: 40 days

Viewed: 556 times

Status: Not sold

OH BOY! It is time, Complete High Speed restore. This is gonna be fun! A bit intimidating. Replacing most playfield parts, targets, plastics, CPR playfield, etc. installing molex connectors, the works. Cabinet repaint. You name it. Gonna look like new when done. Have taken a SH*T load of pics and movies for a smooth re-assembly. High_End_Pins has been quite the resource. Wish me luck, I am gonna need it! The Before imageProgress picSlowly adding Molex connectorsreplacing all the targets. Want to start new with anything I canFully testing all diodes and switches as I assemble new sets

Could someone explain to me the purpose of Ceramic resistors.
Is it necessary to replace the ceramic resistors under the playfield with ceramic ones?
I have to replace a 5 ohm 10 watt resistor under the playfield of my HS because the leg is broken off.
It broke off as part of a clear coat operation so it did not fail.

Just want to know what my options are here.
Thanks
Cliff

You only do direct debit from a savings or checking account???
You do not accept credit cards?

The resistors drop the voltage down to a safe voltage for the flash bulbs. If you don't replace that resistor then a pair of flash bulbs will not work. These are easily found at Marco's.

Grumpy, thanks for the reply.

I wanted to know why ceramic? Is it due to the heat dissipation?
Can a carbon film resistor be used in its place?

Carbon film resistors can be used in lower wattage (2 watts and below) circuits. Ceramic resistors can easily handle up to around 50 watts, and are inexpensive to make. This makes this type ideal for this use.

Lamp Matrix Issue - While playing yesterday I noticed the left #2 arrow was lighting(slightly dimmer than normal) when it shouldn't. Then later in the game I noticed the top yellow stoplight was also lighting when it shouldn't. Throughout playing yesterday I would have most of the lights in that matrix row lit when they shouldn't. Typically a little dimmer than they would be when they are on. So, sometimes it is acting correctly, and sometimes additional lights in that row are lit. From what I can recall, the left #2 arrow is one of the bulbs that is lit(when it shouldn't be) if there are other bulbs lit in the row when they shouldn't be. Should replacing Q81 with a TIP102 resolve my issue, or do I need to do further troubleshooting?

Additional Info - I recently switched 95% of all the bulbs over to LED's. I know I had at least 10 hours of solid playing before I started having lamp matrix issues.
Not sure if that is relevant or not?

Thank you.
Now I know!

Where can I buy the ring for the very back? I bought a kit from Titan and it isn’t included and can’t seem to find on any of the common sites

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I bought the two 5 inch rings from Steve at Pinball Resource. Don't think Titan makes a 5 inch ring as of yet. Hopefully down the road they will, as I love there product!!

The broken one I took off was a single 9" and it went around the outside of ramp bracket. I tried a pair of 5's but way to big and unsure how to even make work without impeding shaft movement.

Oddly, when I was tearing it down, I did not take a pic of the ball side of the double 5.

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If you look close you can see that the shafts of the ramp kicker shafts do contact the rubbers and have left a mark.

Here is a front pic if you need it.

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Thanks. Any idea where I can purchase rings that length?

Matt

Pinball Resource has white rubbers for this

I purchased mine from Titan, used the clear...maybe that is the issue with the size?

Look what Santa brought me!

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Wow looks perfect. Are they available for sale?

Not quite yet.

These were made and you can purchase them here:

https://www.pinballlife.com/high-speed-traffic-light-housing.html

Planetary pinball is also now selling stoplights from original tooling.

Anyone know what this big ceramic resistor is for?

Can I operate HS safely without it?

Can’t find a source for this one immediately.

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I believe those are for the flasher circuit...reduces the voltage a bit as their 12v. I purchased some on ebay from China

It looks like a flash lamp resistor board.

Yes but a pair of flash bulbs will not work.

That isn't the correct resistor for this game. It wouldn't cause any issues tho, just a bit dimmer bulb. You need this for replacement.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/R10W5

I believe those resistors are actually used to pre-warm the filaments of the flasher so they react quickly. Check the others while the game is operating, they should be warm.

Thanks all! If I install LED flashers can I clip the resistor?

There are two resistors, one is the warming one ( the smaller one originally), the other lowers the voltage a bit to use 12v flashers. You can remove the warming resistor...even if you use incandescent bulbs.

Anyone know if the original style pop bumper caps are available anywhere?
The ones that Pinball Resource has don't have the radial lines around the outside edge, and no one else seems to have anything.