Can anyone give me a list of all the Capacitors I should replace on the CPU board, as I can't read the schematics I've got as they are somewhat blurry.

Also what caps are on the switches for the pop bumpers please, as I have no info on these.

Thank you for any help

As I recall...the pop bumper axial lead caps were 22 uf, the mpu caps should be able to be read right off the board...get that phone camera out and zoom in!

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Here's the thread where I was given the advice to add another wire. I ended up not adding the wire in the long run. I've been trying to troubleshoot a lock up issue on HS and adding the wire isn't at the top of the list.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bridge-board-available-for-williams-games/page/2#post-5284785

Thanks Monkfe,

Will try with the wife's phone as my phone is well old

My latest cheap pinball pickup is also the worst condition pin I have ever bought!! The playfield on this poor high speed, feels like it has been outside for a while. The boards have alkaline damage, the head of the cab need a new bottom. But the plastics, backglass and bottom of the cab are great! So, I bought it for $200. I have to go pick it up this week or next. Given where it is, on the third floor of a log cabin, on the side of a Mountain, it’s taking some planning.

I went onsite to diagnose this machine, but obviously they decided to sell it instead. As bad as it is, I plan to refurb the boards, order a hardtop and make it new again!

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You won't regret the Hardtop. I installed one on my HS and it plays *awesomely*! Here's a link to my install, which has a link to a photo gallery in the 2nd post.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hardtop-on-a-high-speed

Good luck with the restore!

I picked one up in worse condition about a month ago and just got it finished up. I spent about $1000 in parts. Not the best looking game, but it plays so good. I bought a box of parts from a guy in florida and hav a bunch left over. I might have something you need. I decided not to do a hardtop (money and time I did not want to spend on a $1500 game. I bought the laminated insert decals from planetary and a full playfield mylar sheet from marco. Looks pretty darn good and plays crazy fast. Hard to believe you still have the original topper. Those things always get broken.

Thanks! I'll check them both out. I love this game and will probably route it. So I figure the hardtop will pay for itself in the end, especially if it holds up as well as they say it does!

Your's came out phenomenal!!!

I think my brain is failing.....or its been a long week at work.

Can some one please confirm the following for me please....

Capacitors on the CPU, right been looking and I think this is right......PFD caps are pf caps and uf is the same as mfd caps

Thank you for any help.

Yes I believe that is correct

It's better to refer to micro farads (0.000001F) as uF, although the 'u' should be the greek letter mu.

Strictly speaking mF is milli farads (0.001F) which differs in value by a factor of 1000 but you're right in that mfd is often used to denote micro farads.

I have always used the 2 interchangeable though I thought it was wrong.
Hmmph, now I know.

Just took the mylar off the playfield and it looks 100X better. Pulled a little black from around a couple inserts, not very bad though. I will not be clearcoating the playfield, if i waterslide decal those inserts do I need to clear or can I leave uncleared? Otherwise I will leave as is. Thanks.

Yes.

This is what I did 27 years ago on mine. Just wax it every year.

My switches (or maybe just one) on the ramp are being very flakey. They are mounted under everything. Is there a good way to get to them to clean without taking the whole ramp off?

I don't believe so...mine were acting up too and had to remove it...had to remove the pins too from the Molex connector to feed the wire through the playfield

Did this mod ever make it off the ground?

Yes, hes working on it...I should be getting a prototype any day now....

That's good to hear. Will definitely be in for one.

Sweet.

Freeplay40 ramp decals- been working with Mr_tantrum to develop these ramp decals for Freeplay's ramps...we also came up with one for under the ramp for that metal bracket that sticks out. Came out pretty sweet, designed it with the seam in the center if you dont want to remove your ramp switches, but its worth the effort to go the distance.
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Steve Richie would be pleased. The road bed is exactly what Steve recommended when he posed for this endorsement photo...

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where can we get the road base decal for the ramps?

Reach out to Mr_tantrum here on pinside

Need some help. While playing my High Speed, either the some of the sound goes out or the displays go out. then flippers stop working. turn machine off and back on and machine powers up fine and will play. This has happened a few times, sometimes can play a whole game. Where should I begin?

I would check your power supply board connectors...all of them for that matter. See how much tension are on the pins as you remove the connector. it can tell you of the contact pressure they're making on the header...look for burns etc. check your power supply voltages

Nearly. Just slow in fiddling with the details.

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Connectors all seem fine. Power supply checked+12.58 and -14.73. Played a game while monitoring + voltage on power supply only dropped .2 t the most. The sound started saying partial phrases(things it shouldn't at this point of the game) then ball kicked out to the plunger, displays when out and flippers died at same time. No fuses blown. Turn game off and on and all work again until it happens again.

What does the 5 volts measure?

On power board the Display pins check +101.0,-101.0 and 4.96. Logic power pins all 4.9 and +12.64, -14.76. Solenoid power pins all at 35.0. 18vdc pins check at 17.0. Special relay pin checks 35.0. Gen. ill. 6.3vac pins check 2.85 using ground test post. Not sure if that is proper ground.

Can you observe the 5v and go through a coil test(one at a time)...see if any particular coil affects the 5v

Ran through and tested each coil 4.96v constant.

Can you check the 5 volts again, while testing it switch your DMM to AC volts and tell me what you read?

How do I prevent the spinner arm from riding up on the screw and binding? I didn't have an issue until I put a drop of Super Lube on the spinner arm. It spins a lot faster, probably too fast, which is causing it to ride up on the screw. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

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Either file down the top of the screw just a little, take the screw off and use a grinder to file the top of the screw a little or you can file the end of the wire on the spinner into a cone shape or cut the wire 1/16". You could also find a replacement screw that might have a screw head that is not as high. There is some room on the spinner bracket to move it over keeping the spinner wire away from the screw head, looks like there is some room on the other side of the spinner to take up the slack.

Thank you for the feedback. Is this a common problem with HS machines? Do I have the correct screw?

Yes this is the correct screw. The screw further up is not correct.

This is the one I have on mine...no clearance issues https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4006-01027-06

Ok, 4.96dc then flipped switch to ac got .5 and it drops to 0.

You might have a cracked header pin or a broken diode on a coil. Can you remove the power supply and post a pic of the back side of the board?

Sure, here you go.

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Found a broken wire on right side flipper button. The one in the back.

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Picture#1 is right flipper coil, picture#2 is left flipper coil, picture#3 is top flipper coil. All three the diodes are wired different. Also upper flipper coil leaf switch has no diode, like the bottom two have. Is this correct?

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You have a very nice original power supply that should be recapped at a minimum. Look very carefully at the pins that are mark in orange especially the red ones for cracked solder joints. Reflow them with solder if needed.

It's hard to tell on the cabinet switch pic but it looks like the round disc has broken away from the switch, this a cap to reduce arcing of the contacts. You can just resolder it back together.

The pics of the lower flippers shows that someone has upgraded the coils to parallel coils. But the red coil is missing one of the diodes. This can be causing the issues that you are experiencing. You need the add one just like the yellow coil. Buy a 1n4007 diode for this, I would buy a pack of 50 as you will use them in a lot of places in the machine. Also when the person converted to parallel flipper coils they did not install caps on the EOS switches, you should buy some and install them as they make the EOS switches last longer. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C2.2M250VA-NP

On your last pic of the upper flipper someone has installed a incorrect replacement coil. It is a series coil like the game came with but it is not the correct windings which will affect the power. You can either install the original type and size coil or you can upgrade to a parallel coil like the coils below. All 3 coils on High Speed should be the same power.

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Resoldered cap to cabinet switch a lower right flipper is constant on. Unsoldered and back to normal.

So the cap shorted out and someone cut it loose and didn't replace it. Must have been a cost issue!
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C.01M500VR

Finally figured out why my left upper hide out switch was not registering. Micro switch small screws came loose and the Cherry switch Kept moving. Nice to be at 100% on the game.

The lower flippers have 2 switches each, the upper has only one. This is normal. The switch in the red circle is the EOS switch. The switch in the yellow circle is the lane change switch, it is part of the switch matrix, that's why it has a diode on it. It allows the game to put in your high scores.

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