(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.


By lordloss

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,870 posts
  • 307 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by monkfe
  • Topic is favorited by 151 Pinsiders

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There are 2870 posts in this topic. You are on page 57 of 58.
#2801 47 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

I had to email them directly.....they have it though....

I think we're talking about two different things.

Anyway, what did you use to replace the speaker fabric?

#2802 47 days ago

Looking for a HS PF. Will pay top dollar. Someone must have one stashed away. Please PM me.

#2803 47 days ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Where? I can't seem to find it.

I assumed you were asking about the speaker screen- from Pinball life? The speaker fabric I purchased on ebay just do a search for speaker mesh speaker grill cloth etc....

#2804 46 days ago

I've been searching throughout this forum and online to find an answer (or just get some opinions) to how to handle replacing the plastic pieces that have the metal spacers. I am attempting, my first time, rebuild of this pinball machine. I am in the reassembly phase after installing a Hardtop on the playfield and am stumped by the metal spacers that separate the plastic playfield pieces. Like the one pictured below. I've read earlier in the thread where someone posted that the metal spacers are removed by heating them up with a soldering iron, then applied to the new plastic by again, heating with a soldering iron and forcing them in. Has anyone used the black spacers (linked below) with any success? What are the best options?

https://www.pinballlife.com/8-black-plastic-spacers-with-mounting-notch.html

20190930_213358 (resized).jpg
#2805 46 days ago
Quoted from detroitzoran:

I've been searching throughout this forum and online to find an answer (or just get some opinions) to how to handle replacing the plastic pieces that have the metal spacers. I am attempting, my first time, rebuild of this pinball machine. I am in the reassembly phase after installing a Hardtop on the playfield and am stumped by the metal spacers that separate the plastic playfield pieces. Like the one pictured below. I've read earlier in the thread where someone posted that the metal spacers are removed by heating them up with a soldering iron, then applied to the new plastic by again, heating with a soldering iron and forcing them in. Has anyone used the black spacers (linked below) with any success? What are the best options?
https://www.pinballlife.com/8-black-plastic-spacers-with-mounting-notch.html[quoted image]

Check out this thread, I followed these procedures and it worked out fine.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/repo-plastic-question

#2806 45 days ago

cliffy sells replacement metal ball guides shown above that have tighter clearances and that you may want to look at (mine were pretty banged up with a lip from the ball hitting it).. I believe he also has some tips to remove these...but I simply took my dremel and ground down the lip only on the top of the spacer. when it gets to the point where its ground flush with the top of the ball guide, it simply pops out. leave the short portion that extends into the metal guide and it should slip in nicely to the new one....the plastic ones can be done like suggested above with a soldering iron...pretty straight forward. Be sure to order the enhanced version as he also makes the original one too.

#2807 45 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

cliffy sells replacement metal ball guides shown above that have tighter clearance and you may want to look at (mine were pretty banged up with a lip from the ball hitting it).. I believe he also has some tips to remove these...but I simply took my dremel and ground down the lip only on the top of the spacer. when it gets to the point where its ground flush with the top of the ball guide, it simply pops out. leave the short portion that extends into the metal guide and it should slip in nicely to the new one....the plastic ones can be done like suggested above with a soldering iron...pretty straight forward.

I second this, the Cliffy lane guide replacements are excellent.

#2808 45 days ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

I second this, the Cliffy lane guide replacements are excellent.

I'll triple it. I had a significant bounce, especially on my right inlane. Cliffy's made them buttery smooth! Well worth the money, especially given how much it improves gameplay.

#2809 44 days ago

Thank you for the advice. I just ordered a set of these and I am excited to get this back together.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/FlipFrames.htm

#2810 42 days ago

I see the stop light housing is available but not the wiring and light assembly. Anyone have details on making one?

3 weeks later
#2811 20 days ago

Can one of you fine gents post a picture of your upper flipper wiring. From memory I have 2 yellow/blue going to right lug (branded side of diode) and a yellow/black going to left lug.

This is my last remaining issue. Upper flipper does not work at all. New flipper mech and new flipper board.

Can a bad cap on the button cabinet switches cause this?

#2814 20 days ago

Hey Woody,

Since your right lower flipper is working, If you have not done so yet, I would check continuity between the cabinet flipper switch BLK/YEL wire to the Coil Lug BLK/YEL wire on your upper right flipper. (see pic below) Possibly a molex terminal has slipped out of one of the dark brown connectors in the lower back cabinet. There are TWO connectors you need to check. See Pics.
Check Continuity at red arrowsIMG_3484 (resized).JPGIMG_3485 (resized).JPG

#2815 20 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Hey Woody,
Since your right lower flipper is working, If you have not done so yet, I would check continuity between the cabinet flipper switch BLK/YEL wire to the Coil Lug BLK/YEL wire on your upper right flipper. (see pic below) Possibly a molex terminal has slipped out of one of the dark brown connectors in the lower back cabinet. There are TWO connectors you need to check. See Pics.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

10-4, I was just about to do that. Coil is getting power, I shorted it and it fires, so it has to be something with that black/yellow wire or the cabinet switch. A bad cap on the cabinet switch would not cause this would it??

I wanted to get the rest of the game put back together before my daughters halloween party today.

Thanks for your help

#2816 20 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Hey Woody,
Since your right lower flipper is working, If you have not done so yet, I would check continuity between the cabinet flipper switch BLK/YEL wire to the Coil Lug BLK/YEL wire on your upper right flipper. (see pic below) Possibly a molex terminal has slipped out of one of the dark brown connectors in the lower back cabinet. There are TWO connectors you need to check. See Pics.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

well, checked continuity from cabinet switch to coil and it is good.

#2817 20 days ago

I am not sure if a bad cap Would cause that to not fire. Have you shorted the switch itself at the switch solder connections where the cap is soldered? There could be a problem with the switch blades. How are the switch contacts?

#2818 20 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

I am not sure if a bad cap Would cause that to not fire. Have you shorted the switch itself at the switch solder connections where the cap is soldered? There could be a problem with the switch blades. How are the switch contacts?

they actually look pretty decent - I am stumped on this one.

#2819 20 days ago

When you

Quoted from woody76:

10-4, I was just about to do that. Coil is getting power, I shorted it and it fires, so it has to be something with that black/yellow wire or the cabinet switch. A bad cap on the cabinet switch would not cause this would it??
I wanted to get the rest of the game put back together before my daughters halloween party today.
Thanks for your help

What did you short to get the coil to fire?

#2820 20 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

When you

What did you short to get the coil to fire?

I just clipped to side rail and touched the non banded side lug.

#2821 20 days ago

This is very basic but Did you check the flipper switch for continuity? place the DMM probes on the solder tabs fo the switch at the BLK/YEL and ORG/VIO then press the flipper button. I am at a loss here and thinking it is going to be a very odd failure.

#2822 20 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

This is very basic but Did you check the flipper switch for continuity? place the DMM probes on the solder tabs fo the switch at the BLK/YEL and ORG/VIO then press the flipper button. I am at a loss here and thinking it is going to be a very odd failure.

i did, but checked again it is good

#2823 20 days ago

I am out of ideas on this one. I do not believe the cap would be a culprit but stranger things have happened.

#2824 19 days ago

go up to post 2812 a few up from here and look at that pic and then look at this one I found on internet.

so witch one is correct? The EOS wiring is different

My game came wired like pic in 2812 so that is what I mirrored when I did my flipper upgrade.

Just for giggles I switched my wiring like the my pic below and flipper still does work during game play.

Can someone who has this game confirm which is correct?

5114dcc3988a93c970a0f06cfbaf987b (resized).jpg
#2825 19 days ago
Quoted from woody76:

checked continuity from cabinet switch to coil and it is good.

You need to check for continuity from the other wire on the cabinet switch to the connector on the CPU board.

#2826 19 days ago
Quoted from woody76:

Just for giggles I switched my wiring like the my pic below and flipper still does work during game play.

I don't see any difference other then 2812 has a cap installed across the EOS switch. Caps were not installed on series wound coils tho.

#2827 19 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I don't see any difference other then 2812 has a cap installed across the EOS switch. Caps were not installed on series wound coils tho.

The switch wires are going to different lugs

#2828 19 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You need to check for continuity from the other wire on the cabinet switch to the connector on the CPU board.

Woody said the lower flipper operates, it is just the upper flipper that is not operating via the flipper cabinet switch. The lower and the upper flipper use the same wire ORG/VIO to the CPU board 1J19-1 so the continuity should show good. Wouldn't you agree?

#2829 19 days ago

Your solenoid wiring is correct. No cap needed. Here is a pic of my upper flipper.

IMG_3487 (resized).jpg
#2830 19 days ago
Quoted from woody76:

The switch wires are going to different lugs

Do you mean that the EOS wires are reversed? If so it doesn't matter.

Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

it is just the upper flipper that is not operating

Sorry I missed that.

Quoted from woody76:

checked continuity from cabinet switch to coil and it is good.

Sometimes you have continuity but it wont pass any current (poor connection). What happens when you ground the Black/yellow wire at the cab switch?

#2831 19 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Sometimes you have continuity but it wont pass any current (poor connection). What happens when you ground the Black/yellow wire at the cab switch?

did this and the coil fired

#2832 19 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You need to check for continuity from the other wire on the cabinet switch to the connector on the CPU board.

did this and tested good, pin 1 on J19 to the coil and pressed the cabinet switch in and it has continuity.

#2833 19 days ago
Quoted from woody76:

did this and the coil fired

Quoted from woody76:

did this and tested good, pin 1 on J19 to the coil and pressed the cabinet switch in and it has continuity.

The only thing left is the cabinet switch contacts are too worn or dirty to work.

#2834 19 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

The only thing left is the cabinet switch contacts are too worn or dirty to work.

Yea, I cleaned them several times. I was about to order some more cabinet switches.

Thanks for the walk through.

#2835 19 days ago
Quoted from woody76:

Yea, I cleaned them several times.

Just jumper it with an alligator clip to see if it flips. Then you will know for sure.

#2836 19 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Just jumper it with an alligator clip to see if it flips. Then you will know for sure.

can you explain how to do this? want to make sure I do it correctly.

#2837 19 days ago
Quoted from woody76:

can you explain how to do this? want to make sure I do it correctly.

use a jumper wire to the ORG/VIO & BLK/YEL on the solder lugs of the switch. This will only work if you have an active game or in diagnostic mode such as switch edges or switch levels. If the solenoid operates your switch is suspect.
IMG_3488 (resized).jpg

#2838 19 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

use a jumper wire to the ORG/VIO & BLK/YEL on the solder lugs of the switch. This will only work if you have an active game or in diagnostic mode such as switch edges or switch levels. If the solenoid operates your switch is suspect.
[quoted image]

10-4, thank you very much.

I am going to assume this is the problem. Not sure what else it could be.

#2839 19 days ago

What is the most likely cause if none of my special solenoids are firing (slings, pops, rear flasher). All other coils are working fine, including flippers. New rottendog board.

#2840 19 days ago
Quoted from ViperJelly:

What is the most likely cause if none of my special solenoids are firing (slings, pops, rear flasher). All other coils are working fine, including flippers. New rottendog board.

Did the problem start after you installed the rottendog board or did you install the rottendog board trying to fix the problem?

#2841 19 days ago
Quoted from ViperJelly:

What is the most likely cause if none of my special solenoids are firing

You have lost the ground for the switch inputs. It is grounded on the power supply at 3J-6 pin 14 (white wire).

#2842 19 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You have lost the ground for the switch inputs. It is grounded on the power supply at 3J-6 pin 14 (white wire).

Gonna try this tonight, thank you.

Old MPU board was trash. Rottendog board looks good but PIA light is not on, would that be part ofthe same issue?

#2843 19 days ago
Quoted from ViperJelly:

Rottendog board looks good but PIA light is not on, would that be part ofthe same issue?

If the RD cpu is working the rest of the solenoids, then this not part of the same issue. Look at the power supply connector 3J6 for a white wire on the right hand side of the connector. It may have come loose from the connector.

#2844 19 days ago
Quoted from ViperJelly:

What is the most likely cause if none of my special solenoids are firing (slings, pops, rear flasher). All other coils are working fine, including flippers. New rottendog board.

I just went through a lot of issues with these special solenoids after putting my playfield back together. First is the fuse (2.5amp) good on the power supply board. (either f2 or f4 I don't recall exactly) I believe that wire(red/white stripe) supplies power to all those solenoids. I had made an adjustment on one of my pop bumpers and when I turned the machine on it would immediately lock up the coil and blow the fuse. Start there....

#2845 19 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Just jumper it with an alligator clip to see if it flips. Then you will know for sure.

Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

use a jumper wire to the ORG/VIO & BLK/YEL on the solder lugs of the switch. This will only work if you have an active game or in diagnostic mode such as switch edges or switch levels. If the solenoid operates your switch is suspect.
[quoted image]

just did this and started game and upper flipper fired and held until I took jumper off. Ordered a new switch.

Thanks monkfe, grumpy, and pin-pilot

#2846 19 days ago
Quoted from woody76:

just did this and started game and upper flipper fired and held until I took jumper off. Ordered a new switch.
Thanks monkfe, grumpy, and pin-pilot

Great! I always replace flipper switches. Its easy and they usually need to be replaced when you get a used game.

#2847 19 days ago

Changed out fuse and checked connections. Fixed problem. Thanks all.

#2848 19 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Great! I always replace flipper switches. Its easy and they usually need to be replaced when you get a used game.

now I know, I have never had one fail like this. I have always cleaned them up and they work again.

#2849 18 days ago
Quoted from woody76:

now I know, I have never had one fail like this. I have always cleaned them up and they work again.

Replace both and enjoy nice strong flippers. Playball!

#2850 15 days ago

Hey guys, can someone please tell me if I need to add another violet wire to this connector on my High Speed?

The second picture is another pinsider's High Speed and it has 2 violet wires coming out of the connector to the Board. Mine is the first pic, and I only have one violet wire. I'm going to install the Inkochnito rectifier board next week and I just want to make sure I'm good without that second wire.

(Update): this was answered in a different thread. I am going to add the wire to help distribute the flow of electricity.
IMG_20191031_172626 (resized).jpgScreenshot_20191017-210830 (resized).png

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