Why don't you try to solve this yourself. Which wire goes to the switch? The switch is ground. Which wire has power? Power always goes to the band side of diodes. The ground is always opposite of the power wire. As for the EOS switch, one wire goes to the middle and the other goes to the ground wire.

Sorry, I don't like asking for help and tried searching this one in the search area and scouring this thread. Also these coils are slightly confusing to me with only a single diode. I see earlier that some are wound in serries and some in parrallel. I was fairly sure my previous statements were correct, but the last time I was sure I was correct, I fried some things. Taking what you said, I will go forward. Was not trying to take advantage of help, but was also afraid as I have done more damage than good in the past.

I don't mean it like that, what I mean is if you look at it like I described you will know how to do this on any machine from now on.

I didn't mean to sound like I was uspset either. It's just this machine has me flustered and looking back through the thread I noticed how much I have been asking for help. You have helped me with many issues up till now and I don't want to seem ungrateful. Looking at my posts it seems like I ask for too much help. Your advice on this does help and will help going forward. I am frustrated that in diagnosing the match/ credit display on my pinbot and swapping parts, I seem to have fried the same display on this one. I have also done everthing I know how, and still my right flipper is weak. Eos is new and gapped, flipper moves freely by hand, and did a complete rebuild. I am ordering a new cabinet switch and will patiently work through these issues, but I admit that I am frustrated. On a good note, I reflowed some of my board work and it looks like my sounds are finally working properly. Just hope that holds up.

Thanks for the pics, I went ahead using the tips GRUMPY gave and that part is back together.

To resolve wether the cabinet switch is bad take a jumper wire with Aligator clips and clip one end to one soldered terminal of the cabinet switch and touch the other end of the jumper to the other solder terminal of the cabinet switch. If the solenoid fires the same it is not the cabinet switch. However if it fires strong the cabinet switch needs replacing. You may have done this already but if not it will save you from buying a part that may not fix the problem. what condition are the contacts on the cabinet switch?

Oh, thanks. I have not done this but I am about to now.

Oh well, not the cabinet switch I guess. Now I am clueless as everything I have read says its usually the eos gap. Even if I hold pressure on the eos by hand, no change. Ohms are similar on both coils. I have read tons of weak flipper threads, but have checked everything that is usually wrong. Everyone says the coil doesn't go bad if it reads proper, but maybe I should switch the 2 coils to see if there is a difference.

99% of all weak flippers is a poorly adjusted EOS switch.

Well it is not snappy like the right and upper flippers. You can hear the difference. Also like you say, it does not make the right orbit, but it is visibly slower than the left flipper.

Yeah, thats what I have read. At this point it barely has any gap when fully engaged and there seems to be good tension on it at rest as well.

Clean the contacts. Make sure that they touch each other squarely.

Ok. Just to be clear, you do not mean with sandpaper right? I have 3000 grit if you do.

Cleaned with a windex soaked paper and took some tension off at rest to make sure they meet squarely. It is a little better and sometimes makes the orbit. Still not as snappy as the right one. I can live with it for now. Maybe I will swap parts to identify exacly the cause later but thanks to everyone for the help....once again!

Try running a business card between the contacts while applying light pressure. You can also replce the EOS switches if the contacts look badly toasted.

Ok. They are both new which adds to my confusion.

If you wind up deciding to replace the coils, consider changing them over to the parallel type coils. You'll have to upgrade the brackets to accommodate the newer style spring, but they're cheap enough. Vid has a great tutorial on changing them over...

Ok. How would I determine the equivalent power coil if I went this route? Is there any thing gained in this? Thanks!

Not necessary, if you want to test the EOS switch then connect a jumper wire across both contacts. This will short out the EOS switch basically removing it from the circuit. Now test it during a game, but DO NOT HOLD the flipper up or you will burn the fuse. If after you test you find no difference in flipper power then it can be a coil issue, but it you find there is more power then you need to concentrate on the EOS switch.

The only gain is that the EOS switch contacts will last longer because you will need to add a capacitor in parallel with the EOS. As far as the return spring goes, this can be done to any Williams flipper regardless of which coil is used.

Ok, I will test this later today. I will also use all these pointers to fix a weak flipper on my Firepower. On that, I know my weak coil is reading 2 ohms and should only be reading 1 ohm. I assume that is gonna be a coil problem.

When testing very low ohms like this, there can be different readings from one DMM to another. Don't be so sure that this is a problem.

Gotcha. I will do the jumper first on both switches and look at the coil as a last resort.

It is a large rubber ring that is doubled up.

I have an issue with a High Speed and maybe you guys can help. What happens is it blows the 2.5 amp slo blo just before the flipper board. But it is about every 4 days or so. It's not immediately... The owner put in a new repro power supply, I then replaced both relays under playfield for the locks. No luck at all. Nothing looks as if it is touching , I pretty much rule out the transistor and predrivers and diodes on the coils. I have not checked the coil resistance... No errors present on the game.
So a looming short somewhere or bad coils/diodes in the locks or ramp diverter??
Thanks in advance.

That is definitely a unique issue. Do the Solenoids look OK? Not discolored/brown/burnt? A couple options are: go through the Solenoid test and operate the hideout solenoids 20-30 times each and see if this blows the fuse. You may have a solenoid that is shorting. As you mentioned you may want to test the ohms on the solenoid.

Sounds like you are on the right track. Relays should not be causing the fuse to blow. I would think the Solenoids (most likely just one) would be more the culprit here. The power draw items on that 2.5ASB fuse are the Kicker Solenoids. Relays take very little power to operate.

I believe this is the Circuit you are having the problem with, correct?

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One of these 3 coils will be your problem, unless you are having a low 5 volts at the CPU board. Run solenoid test and lock on each of these coils for @ 10 cycles, keeping an eye on the fuse. You may see it start to glow while in test but not blow.

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Yes , this is the area. Thanks. Have tested but only 3, 4 kicks per and played numerous games manually getting the locks.

Thank you , will look closer.

Playfields are now up for sale on CPR....Get em while they're hot!

Having recently just installed a Hardtop, I have to say I’m happy with the result.

A $300 solution seems more appropriate for a $1500-2000 pin, but I can definitely understand that $800+ is worth it for some people - especially a proper collector’s quality machine.

My playfield was so bad...holes drilled where there should not be, broken wood behind posts...quite the mess...but yeah not a high value machine, but it was given to me...so doesn't hurt too bad....

Woohoo, thanks, was waiting for a plastic set to come up, and they finally have those as well. Such a great game. Looking forward to finally having decent plastics

Ordering is the easy part. Doing the play field swap will be the challenge for sure.

I actually enjoy doing a pf swap. It is therapeutic.

I did my High Speed. Wasn't too bad. Just don't trust some of the dimpling on the bottom as being ideal. Most notably, for the nine standup targets.....best to align those carefully, manually.

Thanks for the heads up on that.

I replaced the 2 lock coils and the kickback coil with new coils. Played several games, then it took out the fuse again. Flipping the flippers caused fuse to go and put up scrambled displays. 4amp on power supply down. I replaced the diodes on each flip coil and lasted a couple days . Back to the same situation...

Replace the diodes on the flipper coils. Also measure the 5 volts on the cpu board. Let me know what you find.

Forgot to mention this, I put new diodes on the flipper coils. I will get a 5vdc measure on cpu.

False alarm as it was something totally different. Game functions as it should.

What was the fix? I have had same periodic issues with mine but thinking diodes on flipper coils may have fixed mine.

Last thing I did was replace the diodes on the flipper coils.

The rubber on my upper flipper is slowly getting cut by the metal ball guide. It’s aligned as it seemingly should be, and might even be a touch low. Is this normal?

Haven’t seen that on mine in the ~6 months I’ve had it. Got any pics?

Not at the moment. I rotated the band so the cut is on the back side for now. Will look a little closer when I get to my location later and see if there are any clues as to what might be off.

It is normal on mine. It mostly makes a very mild slice mark and once you can see it, it does not continue to grow.

This must be what you are talking about. I bet each machine has its own tolerances. Mine does show some contact however is not cutting into the rubber at all. If it is cutting into your flipper rubber you could take the ball guide off and grind some off of the end to prevent it from cutting your flipper rubber. You may want to check the travel of your flipper as well. It may be traveling too far.

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