Thanks, I will try TNT. I still have some work to do on the pin. Not in a super rush but am excited to get her up to running while I do touch ups.

We only have numeric displays...these were from shuffle alleys and 4 of the seven digits are "bloated"...still readable but we cannot put into games we sell. The other three numbers are perfect since they were never on at all. So if you put this into the 3rd or 4th player Williams pinball or 5th or 6th players ina shuffle alley if you don't want to buy a new led system or a new glass. They are $15 each...I can ship up to three in a flat rate box for $7.50. Just paypal me [email protected] Todd

Thanks for the response Todd. Gonna keep looking for the Alpha-Numberic displays. They seem to turn up now and then when someone converts to LED displays.

Can someone tell me what this board does and the value of the fried resistor

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Looks like a early snub board setup.... Does the game have black Bosch relays? O.K. I can see
the other style of relay... That game is a middle model of Williams High Speed.
You have the Snubber relay setup before Williams made the PCB version.

Ok, So do you know the value of the resistor or is there a better fix for it? Whats its purpose? Thanks

I am going through my High Speed I picked up last week. The game was missing a knocker in the head cabinet (wires still there so easy to bring back to original). I just purchased a new knocker however there is no diode on the coil. I assume there should be one however I could not find the coil in the schematics in the instruction manual. Could someone verify that the knocker coil has a diode. Thanks much.

And if you can locate the knocker coil in the schematics please point me to the page. I found the Police Light Motor diagram and thought this would be the logical location for the schematic, but not there.

A early system 11 game like this will always have a diode on the coils. There should be a red and a brown/violet wire for this coil. The red wire is the power wire and should go to the silver band of the diode.

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Thanks grumpy, was pretty sure it would need one. Wanted to make sure. And Cathode to red wires.

So I finally got my high speed in the house and went to set it up and my ceiling was to low for the beacon to be on the top so then I had to find an alternative for the police light. I found a 12/24v blue and red light bar and got it wired so it plugs into the original plug I played probably 10 games and the game was on for a couple hours and then it blew the 1 amp fuse. I replaced it and it blew again so I did some calculations 48 watts / 24v = 2 amps. Does anyone know if it would be safe to put in a 2 amp slow blow instead of the 1 amp that the game calls for?

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if I'm seeing that correctly (orange-green-black-gold) then it is a 350 ohm 5% resistor

The stock beacon also blows the 1A fuse. I fitted a 2A fuse (I think GRUMPY recommended it) and it has been fine since.

2 amp is OK, but I wouldn't go any higher. If a 2 amp doesn't work, let me know and I can show you how to run an extra power supply for it.

ok thanks i will try this when i get home

When I was blowing my 1A beacon fuse all the time I put a 1.5A fuse in and haven't had a problem since. I was afraid to go to 2A.

GRUMPY the light blew the 2 amp fuse I will beep some help getting more power.

I found it on amazon they are 39.99 pm me I can send you a link

You are going to need a power supply like this. Something around 100 watts. Then you will need to pull the input wire off of the fuse block for the mars lamp and replace it with the positive from the new power supply. You will need to ground the negative wire from the new power supply to the ground braid connection in the backbox.
Then plug the new power supply into the service outlet under the playfield. Last thing would be to move the black wire for the service outlet from the unswitched side of the fuse to the switched side so the power supply will turn on and off with the machine.

ebay.com link: Mean Well GST90A24 P1M 24 Volt 3 75 Amp 90 Watt Regulated Switching Table Top Po

High Speed Teardown Text File -No Photos- (unless added later by others)

Sequence and Notes:

* Underfield connectors: Mark, disconnect and push through hole in field, if possible.
* Top Left Flasher: You will need a hot iron for this. 2 Red wires, 1 brown wire. Rounded head wood screw.
* Ramp Traffic Light: Two screws into ramp.
* Plastic 541-21 over flasher: Two screws, one nut.
* Plastic 541-13: Three rounded wood screws.
* Left Kickout wireform: 5/16 nut and washer on sling post; two 1/4" head long wood screws; clamp at top.
* Left Kickout feed: One large head rounded wood screw
* Plastic "Don't drink and drive": Two rounded wood screws.
* Plastic 541-4: Three round head wood screws; 1 long panhead screw.
* Right Kickout wireform: 5/16" nut with washer on sling post; two 1/4" head long wood screws; clamp at top.
* Right Kickout feed: One large head rounded wood screw.
* Top right corner: Three long panhead wood screws.
* Main Ramp Assembly: Two screws at entrance; two small machine screws at top bracket; 1 at exit; 2 on entrance support bracket.
* Top left corner: 1 rounded wood screw.
* Plastic 541-15 over upper left 3-bank: 2 nuts
* Plastic "Drive 55 and Stay Alive": 1 long panhead screw, nut at bottom and right side.
* Plastic 541-17 over center 3-bank: 1 nut, 1 long panhead screw.
* Pop bumper caps: 2 small wood screws each.
* Plastic 541-1: 2 long panhead wood screws; 1 nut over saucer.
* Ramp exit flange: 2 wood
* Rt Spinner (S.Mon.): 1 long wood with steel riser; 1 wood.
* Center Spinner (S.D.): 2 long wood with steel risers; ring on left side.
* Left Spinner (By Sh): 1 long wood with steel riser on right; 1 wood screw.

I'll finish this up tomorrow

* Plastic over left 1-2-3: 1 long panhead; 2 wood; 1 nut.
* Left Slingshot: nut on bottom post with washers. Top posts open (washers left from before)
* Left flip inlane: 1 long wood at top with white spacer; 2 long machine screws; 1 long panhead.
* Right Slingshot: Nut with washer on lower post; top is open except for washers left from before.
* Right flip inlane: 2 long machine; 1 long panhead.
* Plastic over 4-5-6: 2 nuts; 1 wood screw.
* Apron: 2 screws at hangers; slide forward and lift off.
* Rubber rings and plastic posts.
* Left hideout metal rail, switch and flasher sockets: 6 wood screws.
* Right hideout metal rails: 9 wood screws; 1 1/4" hex head in retainer / rail behind flipper.

Reassemble in reverse order.

do you find it too bright? ...I know these strobing lights can be blinding....

It’s definitely bright but not to bright. It doesn’t glare on glass and doesn’t blind you while your playing because your head is down watching the ball. I think it really adds to the game.

Found it in the manual now that I have the machine and manuals...

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I'm getting my power supply today and i am going to install it later tonight what size fuse should i put in for the light then?

I would use a 3 amp slow blow fuse.

I picked up this pin as my second pin. I love it so much, and really like the history behind it. i can't stop playing!

Good second choice pin! Welcome to the club

Selling a Next Gen HS Translight

Still Rolled up in tube

No longer have my game
My loss your gain
75$ shipped

Message with interest

A7BF761A-3858-43C1-8C59-EF0E53D8C08A (resized).png

SOLD ITEM

Can someone tell me the capacitor values of the two ceramic disc caps on the flipper cabinet switches? ...One of mine is disintegrated

Hi

these will work on High Speed Flipper Cabinet Switches

0.1uf 500v Ceramic Caps

Thank you sir, just got this game, my neighbor gave it to me...its a mess and will need a new playfield. Obviously routed, but the bones are solid and hacks are minimal. Currently rebuilding the power supply board and replacing all the connectors with trifurcon connectors, nvram on the way. Going to get it back together when the boards are done and see if there are any obvious electrical issues other than the ones I've already found before I break it all down for a complete refurb. Looking forward to this project.

Maybe I'm the last to know, but have been chatting with monkfe who just purchased one of my clear ramps and he had said that CPR was going to do another run of High Speed playfields. I did not see any mention on the CPR site, so he double checked and received confirmation they will announce another run. Sweet!....I don't need one as I have already fully restored my High Speed with an earlier run of this playfield, but I know a lot of folks have been looking for one.

Crud. If the price were low enough, that might make me regret going the Hardtop route. But, the PF is all sanded down, so I'm committed at this point

If that's true, they may beat the Hardtop guys to market.
I keep thinking that if I get a Hardtop, I'm going to want Freeplay40's clear ramp to go with it.

Great, I can buy a repop play field.
I am just finishing restoring mine.
Clear coating 8/15.
No turning back now.
But if it were available BEFORE I did all this work, I would have certainly bought one.

I also keep checking their site and see no sign of a High Speed re-run. Why wouldn't this have a sign up list? I would love to get a new playfield.

I believe they said within the next month or so...patiently waiting

Hi guys, I purchased a high speed a few months ago and it is missing the rubber/rubbers up the front of the playfield below the ramp. not sure if it is meant to have 1 big rubber or 2 smaller ones, does any know this info and what size rubbers, als o how the hell do in install the new rubbers with the kickout shafts there, I had a look but not sure what needs to be removed and how.

cheers
Trevor

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It is one big rubber which I believe is a 5".
And yes the assembly has to be removed.
I removed the one on my game to clear coat and it did not seem that difficult, but in my case, I had the playfield out of the machine.

Does anyone know where I can purchase one of these in yellow?

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ok, great, thanks for info, It looks like a pain in the ass to remove this with the playfield in.

Look back in this thread. Some members were 3D printing the yellow ones. You can download the file and have it printed by internet sources or someone local.

No, it is actually two big rubbers. Well, at least it was on my game..
Screen Shot 2019-08-17 at 10.10.33 AM (resized).png

It is two big rubbers and they install around the diverter...They go behind the diverter plate.....between the wood back board and the back of the diverter.

You are in luck, I just replaced my rubbers on my High Speed and in the process of rebuilding. The size is 5" (part # 23-63-10) http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php

Here are a couple pics

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IMG_3037 (resized).JPG

Thanks very much Mark, that makes sense and a lot easier going behind the diverter plate.
Cheers

That’s awesome, thanks very much for the photos. Makes it easier to see where they go.
Cheers

This place is such a great resource for sure. Found another thread on this very topic from a year ago.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/changing-rear-high-speed-5-rubbers

great, thanks

Getting back to fixing my HS now now that wildfires have me stuck home this weekend. I scrolled through over 20 pages and I think I found an answer but want to confirm so I don't cause damage. Was trying to fix a weak flipper and desdered 2 lugs from each to check resistance and forgot how they were wired after too much time between.
Can someone confirm that the blue/ yellow wire connects to the far lug and the blue wire goes to the middle? I took both flippers off so I can't compare to the other side even.

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Likewise, I believe this grey/ yellow goes to the outside and the blue to the middle. But would like to be certain.

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