Wasilla, AK
Still not booting. I am going to start a seperate thread now. Hopefully I get this figured out. Totally stuck at the moment.
(Topic ID: 69131)
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4 Aces
Williams, 1970-
Baby Pac-Man
Bally, 1982
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Buck Rogers
Mambelli, 1980
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Camel Lights
Game Plan, 1978
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Comet
Williams, 1985
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Cyclone
Williams, 1988
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Genesis
Gottlieb, 1986
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Getaway: High Speed II, The
Williams, 1992
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Quoted from Tomass:Cleaned it up some. Is cap leakage like battery leakage? Meaning will it spread? Just wondering if I need to sand and neutralize the area.[quoted image]
You definitley need to sand and neutralize the damage in that area. That affected chip also need to be removed to see if the traces underneath are damaged. I wouldn't continue with any other diagnostic work until that is done.
Quoted from Andy_B:Peekaboo![quoted image]
I once bought an Embryon for $300 and the guy said it wouldn't load the 2nd ball to the shooter. Knew I could figure it out. Easy fix....1 ball was hiding under one of the sling shots.
Quoted from Andy_B:You definitley need to sand and neutralize the damage in that area. That affected chip also need to be removed to see if the traces underneath are damaged. I wouldn't continue with any other diagnostic work until that is done.
Ok. When you say neutralize, is liquid from caps acidic or basic?
Thanks
Quoted from Tomass:Cleaned it up some. Is cap leakage like battery leakage? Meaning will it spread? Just wondering if I need to sand and neutralize the area.[quoted image]
Yes, just as bad.
Quoted from PM_Jeremy:Congrats on getting it to boot!
Thanks! Just got the pop fixed, but now no solenoid power. 
Can't wait to play this. Traded a Rescue 911 for it, and it only had a locked on bumper. Still have yet to play it and never got to play this one when I was young either.
Quoted from Tomass:After 20 min cool down, it starts up.
Put your Pinbot power supply in it and retest.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Put your Pinbot power supply in it and retest.
Gotcha. As soon as I get home today I will try that.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Put your Pinbot power supply in it and retest.
Pinbot ps and same result. Couple minutes into ball 1 and it died. Does not turn back on yet.
Quoted from Tomass:It also turns on once again now that it is cool.
So it's on the CPU board. Most likely something you just repaired. A solder joint heating up and separating. You can try using a can of air held upside down so it makes cold and when the game stops working, shoot different areas of the repair to see if it starts back up.
Quoted from GRUMPY:So it's on the CPU board. Most likely something you just repaired. A solder joint heating up and separating. You can try using a can of air held upside down so it makes cold and when the game stops working, shoot different areas of the repair to see if it starts back up.
Wow. Would have never thought of that method. Once again, I owe you!
Realizing now that the speech is missing, but I am able to play now. Gonna check fuses as special solenoids are no longer activating.
Super frustrating. Got solenoids to work and the right sling locks up in the game. This is the tip102 I replaced and once again, all 3 legs read low. Not sure if replacing is the right thing to do since it failed after replacing. The predriver seems to read correctly as well.
I am totally stuck again. Swapped q71 and its predriver and tests fine on a bench. Put in the game with 1j18 and 1j19 disconnected and now it reads low on all 3 legs again. Ij19 pin 4 shows low corresponding with this. Not sure how I fried q71 with 1j19 off?? Anyone have any thoughts?
Quoted from Tomass:At this point I need some direction. Not sure if my board can take any more repairs in this area.
Sometimes, it is hard to follow the repair with all the other normal club talk that happens in between. Since you have solved your initial boot problem, it seems best to start a new repair thread on your game for the solenoid issue(s) and linking it in here so maybe it will help others in the future. Also post a picture of the front and back of your CPU board in the new thread.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Sometimes, it is hard to follow the repair with all the other normal club talk that happens in between. Since you have solved your initial boot problem, it seems best to start a new repair thread on your game for the solenoid issue(s) and linking it in here so maybe it will help others in the future. Also post a picture of the front and back of your CPU board in the new thread.
Ok! Thanks. Will do.
Here is a thread I started when I was getting stuck. If anyone wants to look, I am totally stuck again. I updated as much as I can.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-sys-11-help-needed-with-board-issues#post-5047642
Hi everyone! Just picked up a high speed this week, my first personal pin! (Work at a bar with a handful I do basic maintainance on)
Game was playing fine for the first few days, then periodically after playing a handful of games, it would freeze up. Display would stick where it was or go blank, all the lamps would stay stuck where they were, but the the solenoids would still fire. A power cycle would fix the issue and it wouldn’t occur for quite a few more plays. Have seen this be an issue while trying to search through here for a few other people, not with the machine so first thing I’m going to check is the 5V on the power supply to make sure that’s good.
More importantly had a friend play a game, it froze up while the ball got locked in the hideout, then when game was turned back on it tried to ball search it and didn’t kick out. Since then neither of the the hideout lock solenoids fire, nor the kickback. All the switches are fine and registering. In solenoid test mode you can hear a light click when it tries for both hideout kick outs and the kick back.
Checking out the backbox everything visually looked alright, other than this one corner of the power supply board. Looks like the wires have a little space and have burnt in a bit. Could a hard slap save be enough to cause them to not make full contact momentarily and cause the freezing problem?
Let me know what other details can help, haven’t done a lot of work on system 11’s, or much past flipper rebuilds, resoldering connections, couple power supply swaps, etc. so still pretty novice.
Thanks in advance!
6524AA7F-5B8F-4DA4-A768-0F9ED07E9A56 (resized).jpegQuoted from Becomeastranger:Hi everyone! Just picked up a high speed this week, my first personal pin! (Work at a bar with a handful I do basic maintainance on)
Game was playing fine for the first few days, then periodically after playing a handful of games, it would freeze up. Display would stick where it was or go blank, all the lamps would stay stuck where they were, but the the solenoids would still fire. A power cycle would fix the issue and it wouldn’t occur for quite a few more plays. Have seen this be an issue while trying to search through here for a few other people, not with the machine so first thing I’m going to check is the 5V on the power supply to make sure that’s good.
More importantly had a friend play a game, it froze up while the ball got locked in the hideout, then when game was turned back on it tried to ball search it and didn’t kick out. Since then neither of the the hideout lock solenoids fire, nor the kickback. All the switches are fine and registering. In solenoid test mode you can hear a light click when it tries for both hideout kick outs and the kick back.
Checking out the backbox everything visually looked alright, other than this one corner of the power supply board. Looks like the wires have a little space and have burnt in a bit. Could a hard slap save be enough to cause them to not make full contact momentarily and cause the freezing problem?
Let me know what other details can help, haven’t done a lot of work on system 11’s, or much past flipper rebuilds, resoldering connections, couple power supply swaps, etc. so still pretty novice.
Thanks in advance![quoted image]
Is there corrosion where the batteries are?
Quoted from Tomass:Is there corrosion where the batteries are?
Nope! Very clean
Quoted from Becomeastranger:then periodically after playing a handful of games, it would freeze up. Display would stick where it was or go blank, all the lamps would stay stuck where they were
This is a CPU lock up from a low 5 volt. The cause can be from a number of things like cracked header pins or a power supply that needs rebuilding.
Quoted from Becomeastranger:More importantly had a friend play a game, it froze up while the ball got locked in the hideout, then when game was turned back on it tried to ball search it and didn’t kick out. Since then neither of the the hideout lock solenoids fire, nor the kickback.
The 50 volt fuse is burnt out. When the CPU locks up sometimes it may keep some solenoids energized until the fuse burns.
Quoted from Becomeastranger:In solenoid test mode you can hear a light click when it tries for both hideout kick outs and the kick back.
This is the relay for each 50 volt solenoid clicking, nothing wrong here but the fuse.
Quoted from Becomeastranger:Checking out the backbox everything visually looked alright, other than this one corner of the power supply board. Looks like the wires have a little space and have burnt in a bit.
Normal for the GI wires of this age to burn, someone has already repaired it and replaced the wires as the originals were yellow.
Quoted from Becomeastranger:Could a hard slap save be enough to cause them to not make full contact momentarily and cause the freezing problem?
NO.
Quoted from GRUMPY:This is a CPU lock up from a low 5 volt. The cause can be from a number of things like cracked header pins or a power supply that needs rebuilding.
The 50 volt fuse is burnt out. When the CPU locks up sometimes it may keep some solenoids energized until the fuse burns.
This is the relay for each 50 volt solenoid clicking, nothing wrong here but the fuse.
Normal for the GI wires of this age to burn, someone has already repaired it and replaced the wires as the originals were yellow.
NO.
Grumpy, thank you so much for all this info, you've definitely given me a great start. Will go back in with a multimeter and trace down the blown fuse, as well as touching up any questionable solder caps on the CPU and hopefully will be on the right track. Will report back!
Quoted from Becomeastranger:Grumpy, thank you so much for all this info, you've definitely given me a great start. Will go back in with a multimeter and trace down the blown fuse, as well as touching up any questionable solder caps on the CPU and hopefully will be on the right track. Will report back!
There is a single fuse holder near the bottom of the back box for this.
I was surfing Pinball Life for other products and came across this
1 (resized).jpg
I thought this project was dead, but here it is
https://www.pinballlife.com/high-speed-traffic-light-housing.html
1 week later
Just Finished my LED job. All LEDs are Comet pinball.
Added 10led strip to ball trough, 3LED to shooter rod, 10 LED strip under the main ramp, all GI is 2SMD sunlight, all No Ghost under the playfield, 8 SMD sunlight in pops, 13 red LED flashes in the back, 8 red LED tower flashers in 4 PF lights, 4 x 8 led blue flashers and 4 x 8 led blue Flex for the radar, Red post lights on slingshots.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from PM_Jeremy:I was surfing Pinball Life for other products and came across this
[quoted image]
I thought this project was dead, but here it is
https://www.pinballlife.com/high-speed-traffic-light-housing.html
Has anyone ordered one of these? I’m curious if it’s molded or printed and painted.
Quoted from desertT1:Has anyone ordered one of these? I’m curious if it’s molded or printed and painted.
These are 3d printed. Another member sent theirs to Terry for me, since mine was broken, to do a trial run. Now they are listed on the site for all. 
Speaking of stoplights, I should share a mod that I am working on. I was chatting with Freeplay40 about his repro HS ramp and the requirement to relocate the stock stoplight. When he found out I 3D print, he asked if I could design a much thinner housing that could use LEDs in order to clean up the look of the chunky black box and allow for easier relocation. My HS is still packed up from the NWPAS, but when it is set back up, I'll finish figuring out the mounting options. I am pretty sure I can get it to fit vertically next to one of his ramps instead of having to go in the back corner. I will make a custom pcb with surface mount LEDs and run a pigtail out of the bottom of the housing to plug into the stock harness. Feel free to PM me directly with questions. I'll start my own thread if needed.
20190707_194408_sm (resized).jpgQuoted from RobF:I should share a mod that I am working on. I was chatting with Freeplay40 about his repro HS ramp and the requirement to relocate the stock stoplight. When he found out I 3D print, he asked if I could design a much thinner housing that could use LEDs in order to clean up the look of the chunky black box and allow for easier relocation.
Can this be scaled to replace the HS Getaway traffic signal? Its clunky big box looks awful as well...
Quoted from PM_Jeremy:Nice design
Thanks!
Quoted from ReadyPO:Can this be scaled to replace the HS Getaway traffic signal? Its clunky big box looks awful as well...
Sure, that would be easy. Only question would be the lenses used. I am considering printing my own with translucent filament anyway, so probably a moot point. I don't have a HS2, so would need to get my hands on one to figure out what will work.
Melbourne, ON
Quoted from RobF:Speaking of stoplights, I should share a mod that I am working on. I was chatting with Freeplay40 about his repro HS ramp and the requirement to relocate the stock stoplight. When he found out I 3D print, he asked if I could design a much thinner housing that could use LEDs in order to clean up the look of the chunky black box and allow for easier relocation. My HS is still packed up from the NWPAS, but when it is set back up, I'll finish figuring out the mounting options. I am pretty sure I can get it to fit vertically next to one of his ramps instead of having to go in the back corner. I will make a custom pcb with surface mount LEDs and run a pigtail out of the bottom of the housing to plug into the stock harness. Feel free to PM me directly with questions. I'll start my own thread if needed.[quoted image]
Following.
Quoted from RobF:Sure, that would be easy. Only question would be the lenses used. I am considering printing my own with translucent filament anyway, so probably a moot point. I don't have a HS2, so would need to get my hands on one to figure out what will work.
I'll PM you better pics and dimensions of the Getaway signal, and full pics of a typical traffic signal from the 80s/90s (have one in the garage somewhere) if your interested. Pic below is from Pinball Life of the original and a period signal.
03-8649 Getaway Stop Light_187x300 (resized).jpg1980s1990s (resized).jpgGentlemen, I'm helping my neighbor with his high speed. Its in pretty sad shape, but apparently working. Needs flippers, coils rubber etc. told him I'd help him out, but when looking into the game more, it looks as though someone has placed all sorts of screws and posts in places they don't seem to fit. So I have to replace some and need to know the correct ones for each location. Anyone have this info? Manual didn't seem to provide. Thanks.
Quoted from monkfe:Gentlemen, I'm helping my neighbor with his high speed. Its in pretty sad shape, but apparently working. Needs flippers, coils rubber etc. told him I'd help him out, but when looking into the game more, it looks as though someone has placed all sorts of screws and posts in places they don't seem to fit. So I have to replace some and need to know the correct ones for each location. Anyone have this info? Manual didn't seem to provide. Thanks.
If you could post photos of the areas in question, I'm sure many of us can provide photos of those same areas.
Quoted from monkfe:Gentlemen, I'm helping my neighbor with his high speed. Its in pretty sad shape, but apparently working. Needs flippers, coils rubber etc. told him I'd help him out, but when looking into the game more, it looks as though someone has placed all sorts of screws and posts in places they don't seem to fit. So I have to replace some and need to know the correct ones for each location. Anyone have this info? Manual didn't seem to provide. Thanks.
I have these teardown photos, hopefully they'll help
http://www.mediafire.com/file/dxh9886l75yg88k/High_Speed.zip/file
Quoted from Hammerhead:I have these teardown photos, hopefully they'll help
http://www.mediafire.com/file/dxh9886l75yg88k/High_Speed.zip/file
yes, it appears this is one https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/530-5332-03 and the other
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4659-1 Looks like they drilled "extra" holes to make their posts fit
Quoted from monkfe:looking at that last pic...is that the ramp that is cracked (black plastic?) Available? (guessing not)
You may find some repro ones for around $100, if you can find one and absolutely want black like the original. Otherwise, Freeplay40 makes really nice clear ones for around the same price. I put one on mine and it looks great.
I just picked up a #high Speed pin the other day. Overall it is in decent shape. Just been sitting for some years. Did the Nvram mod on the CPU. Need to rebuild the flippers and do a thorough cleaning. Also will need to buy one of those stoplights mentioned earlier.
One thing that appears to be very scarce are the 7 digit Alpha-Numberic displays. One of my displays is not working. another Pinsider pointed me to one on eBay however it has a rather large nipple on the back side and am afraid that I will have to modify the board to install it and there may be traces on the board.
Does anyone know of any sources for these Alpha-Numberic display tubes?
Thanks
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:I just picked up a #high Speed pin the other day. Overall it is in decent shape. Just been sitting for some years. Did the Nvram mod on the CPU. Need to rebuild the flippers and do a thorough cleaning. Also will need to buy one of those stoplights mentioned earlier.
One thing that appears to be very scarce are the 7 digit Alpha-Numberic displays. One of my displays is not working. another Pinsider pointed me to one on eBay however it has a rather large nipple on the back side and am afraid that I will have to modify the board to install it and there may be traces on the board.
Does anyone know of any sources for these Alpha-Numberic display tubes?
Thanks
TNT Amusements has some seven digit displays that were passable for sale a while back, wouldn’t hurt to email them and see if they have any. Might have an burn on them or some other imperfections but it would work.
Alternatively, order a new led set from XPin. Expensive up front, but then you can play the game and in the mean time look for a replacement.
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