Repainted all of the white areas under the plastics. Not sure if I will do the white areas in view outside of the plastics.
Doing some touch ups waiting for 70*F weather here in New England so I can lay down a 2K clear coat to hold things down.
Masking the white areas created many new areas to touch up as it pulled up more paint.

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How is this attached? When I got this pin it was attached on top of the bracket for the stop light on the ramp. How is this suppose to be attached?

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I dont see that wireform in that location on my game... but it may just be missing in my game

You won't need that piece with the new ramp and it is missing on a lot of the games. Pretty sure it's function was to keep the ball from getting trapped under the original ramp. My ramp is a different shape on the up hill turn so ball cannot get under the ramp.

Thank guys! That good to know.

Hi Guys! Back in November, I picked up my 2nd pinball machine, a Williams High Speed. This particular machine had seen better days for sure.
Over the past five months, I’ve been working out various electrical issues. I suspect that as things started to go wrong with the game, various wires were just disconnected and left to hang under the playfield. So it took a while to sort out where everything went. The original Williams MPU was in terrible shape. The board had the typical acid damage you’d expect as well as a few missing transistors. I sent the board out for repair and as luck would have it; RottenDog during that time released a compatible replacement board for that would work for High Speed. I ordered one to try out while the original was being repaired and it works as a backup to the other game I have in my collection. With a little luck and a lot of help, I was finally able to get the game up and running and playable.
So, now to take it apart and fix the cosmetic issues. Again as luck would have it, PinballGifts will be producing new pinball Hardtop layovers for the playfield. So this weekend, I started the process to strip everything and get it ready for the next step.
I already contacted Freeplay40 to order a replacement ramp. I see a lot of photos of the clear ramp, however, he also produces these in a transparent red. I think I’m going to opt for the red.
I found another thread with a discussion on 3D printing the replacement housing for the traffic light. I have both the vertical and horizontally mounted housing being printed (in case I opt for the relocation of the light to the far left corner).
I’m looking forward to seeing how this turns out… I am sure I’m going to have a few questions along the way since this is the first time I’ve attempted this.
It should be noted that I have a second stripped playfield that I am using to keep the parts on so I know where they go back when I finally get to the repopulation portion of this.

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Freeplay40 also does a 'smoked' version of the ramp (it's translucent black/gray). I love mine and he does awesome work. He also sells the harness extension if you plan to relocate the stop light. I did the 3D-printed horizonal stop light (I didn't end up relocating it) and love it. Good luck. I'm looking forward to hearing about the Hard Top install (someday I'll get around to it).

Would someone mind posting a pic of the wire harness for the light beacon? My game came with a nice red dome but no beacon assembly . I have one now thinking “plug n play” but there is no connector for it left inside either...

Here you go.

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Thanks! Looks like whoever owned this in the past really hated beacons. Ripped everything out including the poor little fuse holder.

I’ll also need to figure out where the wires went. I have a GI mod to put back to normal as well. Perhaps those red wires spliced together with electrical tape are related to the beacon? Wish i had a hardcopy of manual. Hope IPDB version quality is decent.

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Here you go, some light reading.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-high-speed-build-from-empty-cab/page/2#post-3067005

Awesome, thanks Grumpy - This will be a huge help!

I had some new traffic light housings printed up using ABS plastic. They're a little rough, but I think I should be able to smooth them out with acetone vapor. I test fit the lens in one to see how well it fit and it was perfect.

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I'll take a horizontal! Sign me up! I'll smooth it out, no worries!

I have some board work to do on my High Speed. Plugged the wire from 1j15 into either 1j13 or 1j14, I can't even remenber at this time. Now I have nothing. Was in a hurry fixing a stuck pop, now I have to dig in. Oh well

This didn't cause any trouble.

Did you connect anything to 1J15 when this happened?

It was a while ago and I just got space to set it back up. I don't think I did, the others don't reach. I get "8" on the mpu display when the cpu check is pressed. I just get a siren repeating if I hit sound check.

When I turn it on I get a very short beep and then just lights.

Check for the 5 and 12 volts and ground on the cpu.

4.92 and 10.45. Checking from the ground lug on the board if thats what you mean?

This is borderline. Problems start to happen at 10.5 and lower.

Also did you check the ball roll tilt, plumb bob and 3 balls installed?

Ok, I will track down the 12v and start there. I don't think it was the tilt or plumb bob. It was set up and working with a stuck pop. Waa rushing when I put the board in the last time. When I got nothing, i checked and found my mistake of mixing up connectors. It has been folded up for a while after that.

I know you just moved into the new game room so I thought that it was acting this way after being moved.

How are the caps on the PS?

Here is a note from the manual.

The 12 volt power is what powers the power on reset to the CPU and PIA chips.

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I think the caps are all original. I will order the parts to rebuild the ps. I may have another board that I can swap in the meantime. I will check when I get home later today.

Put a new bridge rectifier in while your at it and the six 1n4007 diodes.

Will do. Thanks!

I have a rather unusual "quirk" with my High Speed I'd like to get an opinion on.

Everything functions great except after you shoot the ramp to "Escape". Ordinarily when you shoot the second ball it'll go up the ramp and then when it's registered in one of the lock positions, the game will then put the 3rd ball out for the shooter. My game, however, puts that third ball out for the plunger even if the 2nd ball is still sitting there unplunged.

This is the only time anything is unusual with that entire area; for example, the tire screeching noise doesn't play before the plunge (as if that switch at the plunger wasn't functioning right). The only issue is that it's putting the 3rd ball out before the 2nd has been plunged.

The only thing I can think of is the switches under the playfield that register either the 2nd or 3rd balls in "storage" are faulty? And that causes the 3rd ball to be served early? Is that the best possibility?

Definitely check the trough switches are working correctly and the shooter lane.

Yeah, my shooter switch originally would play the tire squeal even if I hadn't plunged the ball yet; I've got that working well now. So I suspect it's a trough switch. The unusual thing is it doesn't manifest itself anytime else during game play.

That would be my bet.

So I tested the things I could and found r13 on the PS to be way out of spec. Not sure if that is tied to 12v or not though.

Also this strange film or corrosion around some of these components. Redish. I scraped some off the bigger resistors there.

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My initial inspection showed everything was ok. However the issue persisted.

Continuing to look into it, I eventually found the issue.

The switch detecting the 3rd ball had its wire set so that when the ball was on it the wire was getting caught on a screw on the switch. So when the ball advanced the switch was being kept engaged. A little creative wire bending with needle nose pliers took care of it!

The five volts goes thru this resistor.

This is solder flux and will not cause any harm. A brass wire brush and alcohol will remove it if you want.

Great job! Observation is a key skill in troubleshooting.

The wire getting hung up is one of those hard to find problems. Setting up the exact circumstances can be more difficult than it would seem.
I once tracked a problem on an em that would only happen with the playfield down.
Took 3 weeks to nail it down.

Definitely, this was the case here. Lifting the playfield shifted the ball in the channel which then shifted the positioning of the wire off the screw. All my electrical tests were OK; I just happened to lift the playfield at one point and the ball didn't shift, and I saw it right away.

Now that all the really annoying issues with my HS are done, I can now devote time to a non-critical one - - the beacon light. I'd swear I'm not getting the correct voltage up there thru the relay. But I want to do legit voltage readings before I post specifics here.

Joined the club today.

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Welcome

Awesome and Welcome!

Noticed that when I power on the game the knocker and kicker fire. Everything else seems to be fine. What could cause this?

Need trying to identify the right diode for the credit switch. Was looking at mine and noticed it was missing. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks

Just buy 1n4007 diodes. You can use them on switches, lamps and coils.

Well I rebuilt the power supply and same thing, just a quick beep and nothing else except gi lights. I really cannot remember which plug I swapped between 1j13, 1j14. 1j15 and 1j16, but what is the next place to start looking? Thanks

Also the displays seem to be powered and I hear speaker hum.

Start by checking for voltages on the cpu. Use the ground test point on the cpu for measuring. Check the cathode of ZR-1, should be 12 volts. Check the 5 volt test point, should be 4.9 or better. Has C-30 been replaced?

Ok I get 4.96 at the 5v tp. Not sure which is cathode side but I am going to look that up. Left side of zr-1 reads 13v and the right side reads 6.06v. If c30 is not on the ps, then it probably was not replaced.

Sorry, I see c30 now. Now it has not been replaced.