Can anybody speak on the quality of these?

ebay.com link: Williams High Speed Pinball Machine Next Gen Translite backglass

Just based on first impressions - I would save up for a real backglass. There is a non mirrored backglass that CPR offers for $199 or a mirrored one at $249
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/high-speed/
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I have one in my game, looks great. If you need original, then go for it from CPR, their products are amazing as well.

I went with clear caps with red, yellow and green LED rings.

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Thats cool

Display Problem fixes? I was hoping to put this out there and see if anyone else has had this problem with their HS.

I am perplexed with this problem on my alpha numeric display--I am trying to hold off on purchasing an LED replacement

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/newbie-alert-help-always-welcome

thanks in advance

The Dragon

Revisiting this since I have finished some other repair projects. I tested the diode, and it passes. Open one way, .633 the other.

I measure 4.8XX VDC at the battery pack. Same numbers going into D2. However, 4.498 VDC coming out of D2. Is the diode bad because of this? I think I’ve read that less that 4.5 will give the “dead battery” failure. If I do need to replace it, can I use the 1N400X type that I have plenty of? This diode looks like the clear/orange variety but I don’t know if that matters.

No, the P/N junction of the diode will cause a voltage drop.

Not true, some people run coin style batteries which are only 3 volts when new and they will last for years.

Check pin 24 on U-25 with the power off for voltage, Should be @ the same as it is coming out of D-2.

Pin 24 on U25 is the same as what is coming out of D2.

It maybe time for a new ram chip or NV ram.

Ok, I can live with that. I have a few System 11’s I want to do anyway. Thanks

Has anyone done scans of the rubber ring diagrams under the plastics. I am redoing a playfield and would like to make water slide decAls.

I found a loose wire at the bottom the playfield. I looked around, but could not find an attachment point for it. anyone here have an idea where this wire may go?

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White/violet wire will go to a GI lamp socket. Take another pic out a bit farther and I may see where it goes.

Hmm, I don't have any light out.

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I don't see the second wire connecting to the upper pop lamp.

I just took a look at my restoration photos. Grumpy is correct......and amazing!

Hmm I got the top and lower left bumper GI tied together. That was how the two GI wires where connected and stapled. Freeplay would you care to post a picture showing how this is routed?

Here you go...

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I do see the small braid coming in under the pop bumper. If that pop bumper light is working, then power is coming though the braid. Then that same braid is likely connected elsewhere to the same wire colors.

Thank you sir! That make more sense. And your are correct, it is connected to the same braids.

High Speed is the first game I've owned so this is probably more of a general question and not High Speed specific... But what would cause a mid-game reset? On occasion, mid-game, the flippers will die and scores will reset. Basically brings you back to attract mode waiting for somebody to hit the start button for a new game.

Voltage drop - most likely from old caps or bad connectors in the power supply

If happens when you press your flipper buttons, you could have a diode that is bad or is on it's way out on a flipper coil. I had that issue that was intermittent and it turned out to be diode on upper flipper. Replaced it and no issues since.

That sounds like the behavior of the slam tilt, so maybe it happens during more "enthusiastic" play? Or at least that's how my HS acts if I test the slam tilt; just a reset back to attract mode, no tilt message.

For what it's worth, I verified via switch edge test that I can invoke the slam tilt by closing the coin door sufficiently quickly (but nowhere close to a slam). So, doesn't take much.

Just tossing these out there in case it's applicable.

Does anyone have pictures of the wiring for the traffic light? My game was missing it when I bought it and I just got the repro front assembly from Pinball Life, but realized I don't have the backplate/light sockets for it. I also have not found anywhere that is selling one so I wanted to see about trying to make one myself.

I re-built the traffic light lamp assembly, but I did use the original metal bracket that attaches it to the ramp. I don't think it would be that hard to make a new one though.

I replaced all of the lamp sockets in my game during the pf swap so I wanted to replace the ones in the traffic light too. I re-used the standoffs because nos are not available anywhere, but you can probably find a suitable substitute.

The original lamps are attached together on a metal bracket, but you can use regular lamp sockets like I did and daisy chain them together.

Here are a few pics, the last 3 are the finished product. Let me know if you need anything specific.

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Hadn't had time to post this here, I started a group on FB to share info, pix and mods etc. for high speed. request to join!

https://www.facebook.com/groups/2269664433265000/

How can I tell what game ROM that I have with my game? I have read that there is an L2 and an L4, so I didn't know if I needed to update or not.

Thank you sir! I didn't know that.

So you've lost the key for the head lock, why bother drilling the lock out when you can cut it out completely with a dull screwdriver - yeesh!

I need the centerline dimensions for the lock in the front-to-back and left-to-right directions so that I can recreate the top of the head. Any help would be great, thanks.

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Greetings! New High Speed owner. I posted this question in the Tech forum, but I understand this thread is the place to go for High Speed questions.

We unfortunately had to remove the Head in order to get the machine down to my basement. Everything went swimmingly, EXCEPT in the process of getting everything set, the yellow wires soldered on the lower right corner of the Power Board snapped off. They were just severely weakened stranded wire. I have no issues resoldering them, I just wanted to verify the proper order of the wires.

The drawing in the manual makes it look like that pins 1->4 of connector 40 go: upper-left, lower left, lower right, upper right onto that corner of the power board. is that correct? Can someone with this pin give it a quick inspection to verify? I took tons of photos prior to the disassembly/reassembly, but unfortunately none of them clearly show the wire order.

Another schematic later on in the manual seems to indicate that this area of the Power Board is for "General Illumination". Based on that, I should be able to temporarily leave those wire off just to test the general function of the game (to verify proper reassembly), correct?

Cheers.

-- M

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Yep.

Great! Worked fine upon the resoldering. Thanks for the sanity check.

Followup question.

When I power on the machine, I get the "Adjust Failure" / "Factory Setting" error (depending on if the coin door is open or closed. I've replaced the batteries, etc. When the machine does this the buttons in the coin door don't allow me do go into the menus - - they don't do anything. Eventually, after fiddling (removing and reseating batteries, etc), the pin will suddenly boot and allow us to play. When we power off though, it goes back into those errors at next power on.

Common opinion seems to be that this is normally a bad/dead battery. But I've replaced them with brand new ones. There's no damage from past battery acid on the board, and no corrosion on the terminals in the battery sockets.

What should be the next thing I look at?

Have you checked the battery holder itself? It probably needs to be replaced. Buy a remote holder or just use NVRam.

I would check for voltage on both sides of D-2 with the power off.

Bump, just a few measurements anyone?

I got the same thing.

Thanks!

Thank you muchly, gentlemen. It looks like a bad connection between the battery holder and the board. If I wiggle it I'm able to then use as normal. I'll schedule one of the options - relocating the battery holder or the NVRAM chip.

Are people happy with the NVRAM without using any batteries?

- M

Absolutely

100% yes. Every System 11 game I have owned I installed NVRAM. Pretty much do it instantly. I have seen too many of these boards with corrosion, which is very painful.

Hey Freeplay40. This is a quote from you on page 16. I was wanting to know how to adjust the micro switch. I'm thinking that I have one on the left ramp that is out of wack. It takes forever for it to kick the ball out a lot of times.

With a micro switch, if the mounting doesn't allow for adjustment, which I'm pretty sure this one doesn't, you adjust the micro switch by bending the wireform that the ball hits. There are actually two switches in each hideout....One is the micro switch on the side and the other is a rollover switch in the center/bottom of the hideout. It's been a long time since I had to trouble shoot, but I do recall that all of the switches associated to the hideouts (The two diverter switches under the ramp, and the 4 switches in the two hideouts) must all be checked for proper function and cleaned if rollovers, or the game can get confused. The only other possible cause I can think of is a near broken or poor solder on the micro switch.

Thank you sir.
It looks like I have some problems to fix. I created a thread here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-switches-not-working#post-4900809

This is my first system 11 to work on so I a bit lost on how to troubleshoot this.

Does the ball shooter have a sleeve in it?

Yes.