I decided to try freezing it. FOR THIS mylar situation, freezing was the way to go. Yes it sucks removing the glue. But it is less work than repainting the playfield. And even using heat in this case left all of the glue behind. All of the art was left on the playfield that was not already in trouble when the OP added the mylar. All of the text on the inserts survived. Competed entire mylar removal and glue removal in about 2.5 hours. ( 5 minutes to freeze and peel the mylar, the other 145 min to remove the glue).

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I froze it with this set-up.

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Centered is where mine was originally installed and I like it there.

Here's where mine is. I have got my light working good so I don't worry about the brackets.

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Your welcome, yep you are correct, the sign is a bit on the hold down brackets.

Not getting the burn out sound when I launch the ball. Every now and then it does, but most of the time not. Cleaned and adjusted the switch, no change. Diode possibly?

Micro switches do go bad. You could test it with a jumper wire.

With apologies in advance for any stupid questions...

Having an intermittent issue with my HS where it has blown fuse F4 a couple of times. I looked on the CPU board and saw that Q73 has a leg scorched (see attached pic). It tests OK with a DMM, but I get that how it tests without power doesn’t mean it’s good when powered on.

Obviously I’ll replace that transistor, but wanted to figure out what lives downstream of that transistor so I don’t end up frying the next one. If I’m reading the schematics correctly (very likely not ), this connects to IJI9-3, which leads to special solenoid 3.

If this is all correct, what is SS 3?

Also, beyond checking the coil (plan on following these steps: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_coil), anything else I should verify before replacing the transistor?

Thanks in advance!

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That could of happened when it was replaced before.

Correct.

The pic has everything you need.

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Thanks Grumpy! Glad to know I was close.

I was thinking the transistor hadn’t been replaced post-scorching as the solder on that leg is also scorched. Is that a bad assumption on my part?

Again, truly appreciate the help!

GTC is not an original part. Pre/post scorching, hard to say. And really doesn't matter. Check your coil and switches, replace the diode, driver and predriver and test before reconnecting. Use Tip102 instead of Tip122.

Hey guys, looking for some advice. I just finished my pf swap and am ready to connect it to the machine for testing. I went through pics of the old pf and checked them against all my wiring, everything looks correct. I want to connect the large pf molex connectors one at a time, least risk to high risk. Any thoughts on the order I should go? Also, all of my coils are molexed, I planned to connect and test them one at a time if everything else tests ok. Would that cause any issues? Thanks in advance for any ideas!

Main thing to do is double check coil diodes and SS switches. Then connect everything and run all test in the menu. Fix any minor issues and enjoy your hard work.

My High Speed is alive again! A few issues to work through, but nothing horrible.

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Congrats!

I saw a post a few months back about Pinball Life not seeing the traffic light assembly as a realistic product. Just wanted to raise my hand and say that I'd be another customer to buy one of those. I'm only one more person but if it helps show the demand, I figured I'd let you know.

FWIW, I replaced both lower hideout switches with new ones from marco and <knock on wood> so far no phantom kickouts. Thanks, all.

Cool, keep us (or me) posted, I've been having similar issues and have adjusted gaps to no avail, so I have been considering switch swap out too.

Good news: Haven't gotten it to fail again.
Bad news: Haven't gotten it to fail again.

But, a couple of mystery screws to fell out of the PF while doing some other work. They look like the screws to hold the cover to a pop bumper (I didn't touch the covers, for what that's worth). Odd thing is these mystery screws are silver; ones in the pop covers currently are black. I couldn't find any other sources of those kinds of small screws.

Anyway, given that the suspect circuit is the right pop, having rando hardware lying somewhere around the pops might explain why it was intermittent.

Fingers crossed...

Not sure if you have the old ramp or the clear one, but if it’s the old one, check the small screws holding the clear plastic cover over the ramp. I have had those screws work their way out before

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Thanks for the callout. I've got Feeplay40's clear ramp on it with no cover.

Just looked for them, but didn't find in my random parts bin. Not sure what I did with them, but they look like the left screw in this image:
https://www.pinballlife.com/bumper-cap-screws.html

Strange, not sure on that one. I’ll let you know if I run into any others like that

Found them. Here's what one looks like. Gotta think this is from the pop cover, but open to other suggestions.

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Perhaps it's this guy, minus the lock washer: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4004-01003-08

Description says it was also used on the rod and ring assembly, so will take a peek there later tonight.

Just wanted to give a shout out to Grumpy for helping me through the issues I had after the pf swap. My coil and switch tests are now 100%! Grumpy is the man!!!

Since this looks like a bolt, check all your microswitch assemblies under the pf. They all have 2 bolts that secure them to the mount that look similar to yours.

I have my High Speed working almost 100%. I have a few things going on that I assume are related, but not sure. When I power on the game, I get 5 tones, and then the 1 beep of the system boot. I also get Adjustment Failure on the display. I get a code 0 on the CPU test indicating everything checks out. I de soldered the battery holder a while ago and just installed a remote battery holder. I have verified 4.9 V at the battery positions on the MPU and 4.8V at the last pin of U24 (with the game on, though). Gone through the adjustment procedure a few times to set the game to free play and it accepts free play, but when the power is cycled, I get Adjustment Failure again and free play setting is lost. Any thoughts as to what to try next?

Here is my first machine--and it works. Anyone know how to remove the player one display--I wanna switch it with #2? I don't want to break anything (cables and such) It doesn't easily just pull. Are there tabs on this thing? My eyes aren't what they used to be.

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There are lock tabs on the white pegs retaining the corners of each display. The cables just slide off - no lock tabs.

Get yourself an Optivisor. They use optically ground glass for a clear image and come in 5 strengths. I have 2 (one high power and one low)
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The white plastic retaining posts are original and need to be squeezed to release. The player #2 looks like some kind of bolts and nuts and is not factory.

Just an update for posterity. Took nearly 300 games for the issue to come back, but think I might have the root cause. After this recent failure, I popped a fuse back in and played, videoing as I played.

In this case, it went when I hit the right flipper, which made no sense. The fuse blowing is for the special solenoids. But, it did hit the left sling just before I flipped. I found that the left sling was mechanically bound up. It would only go halfway through it’s stroke. I took everything apart, but didn’t find anything obvious.

I guess it would make sense that if it never hit its EOS, that would pop the fuse.

So, don’t know exactly why the sling bound up, but will order new hardware for both. Luckily, the left coil seems to be in good shape (no scorching, sleeve came right out).

Also, seems that the burning on the tranny for Q73 might be a red herring. Plan on replacing it, and the other bits in the chain soon.

Will update if anything new transpires.

It sounds like your sling coil may have a short in it. Unsolder the coil leads and check the resistance of the coil against the values in this chart:

https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

If it is too low, It can blow the fuse, and heat up internally until the liner warps and it will stick.

Thanks a bunch--I am glad to see this. I think I am just going to remove the cables and switch them for the time being to see if it is the display or something else.

those things look great--amazon here we come

Newbie here! Lots of great info to read. Took 5 years to get my HS but finally picked one up and let another slip out if my hands.
Been cleaning and working on her but would really like to find a member that has the 3d print file for the traffic light cover. I read a few threads but they were 4 years old and didn't seem to have any source. Is anyone making these?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-traffic-light-1

Ok, so I am trying to track down another issue with my High Speed. Currently, 4 special solenoids do not fire in test or game. Solonoids 17,18,20,21. (Q75,Q71,Q69, and Q77). During test, the pulses seem to be correct, so I don't think its a IC issue. Grounding the transistors do not fire the coils. Coils have power (28v). Maybe its a grounding issue? anyone?

Check the molex connector for the play field.

This is why GRUMPY is the MAN! Unplugged molex under the playfield and reconnected. BOOM. Fixed.

Didn't mean to blow it up

My first pinball machine so taking repairs slowly. Looking to replace the rollover wireforms because the ones I have are gross. Anybody know what they are actually called or if they have a part number?

This seems to be pretty close:
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MX-12-6451

Bend your own. Buy some piano wire from Pinrestore and u r good to go

I make ramps and for some of them I offer assembly services. Part of that service includes polishing any metal before it gets attached to the new ramp...including wire forms. I polish them on a bench mounted buffer. Big caution here...If you are not experienced using this type of buffer, wire forms can easily get caught on the wheel and rocketed off to destinations unknown. Just a little practice and you'd be surprised how nicely most clean up...shiny like new. I've never tried it but I suspect you could polish with a Dremel and a small buffer wheel and some polishing compound. Not sure if a vibrating polisher would get them as nice as buffing will.

I will start playfield swap soon. Also going to install the red translucent ramp from freeplay40 together with red translucent bumper housings / caps.

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Based off the light reflection, I'm guessing this is clear coated. I bet that was "fun" to try and find. Better than those of us who are waiting for a Hardtop. Best of luck on the swap.

It’s s CPR Gold. So I will finish it with some additional polishing (3M). It’s nearly 2 years old, so I can start immediately with the swap, no need to lets dry the clearcoat longer. Should be dry aged enough

Lots of work, but it will look great when you’re finished. Good luck!