Yes

Check R-104 (68 ohms), and R-102 (2.7k ohms).

In coil test for the left kicker check for pulses at U-49 pins 8 and 9.
For the right kicker check for pulses at U-49 pins 3 and 4.

All works now! I just needed bypass the ground like you said. That was why I had no special solonoids.

Playball!

Thanks for your help as always! You win my vote for most helpful Pinsider.

Just got the brand new Rottendog MPU9211 today! My High Speed project has been sitting for a few months because the original mpu that came in it had a bit of acid damage like usual. This is the new board that covers all games from system 9-11 including things like High Speed. I just installed it this afternoon. All I ordered was the "base" board so I swapped over my game/sound roms and 6808's. You can order it with the 6808's and game/sound roms already in place if you need to as well.

High Speed is now up and running!

Although, I did blow a transistor for the eject hole already....

Ordered up some of those sensitive FQP13N10L transistors.... should be back in business soon.

Got it all set up with new pinscore displays as well.

Next step: hardtop and shop out

Hey guys, hope you can help but I have a high speed pin and a problem, as you can see from the pic the GI on the left side of the machine are out, I'm not new to pinball but new to fixing them, does anyone have any suggestions on how I can begin to trouble shoot this problem?

Thanks for your help.

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Check your fuses.

I'm not in near mine, but I had a similar problem on mine about a year ago. Turned out the plug going to the CPU just needed to be re-seated. Look at your schematics to see which plus it is and try re-seating it. I want to say from memory it was on the right or bottom right side of the board, and was a smaller 5-6 pin connector...

Look for a melted connector on the power supply board.

Alex, I'll take "broken wire between the bulbs some where that would cut off anything in line after it".

Thanks everyone for your responses it is greatly appreciated, look at what I found, this is a connector on the power board just have to figure out how to reattach it, thanks again.

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The lose wire either belongs in the hole next to the other yellow wire above it or it needs to be reattached to the pin connector, going away on business but will follow up when I return.

One more pic of the entire board.

If you look over to the right of the connector it looks like someone spliced a green wire to a yellow wire coming from the connector, wonder if the loose yellow was once where the green wire is connected to the yellow? I'll have to test the cut yellow to see if it's dead.

Never mind it looks like the yellow wire that is spliced into the green wire is actually beige with a yellow stripe.

If I remember, I will take a pic of mine tonight for reference.

The manual calls out, from left to right: white/yellow, white/green, white/violet, white/brown, EMPTY-key, Yellow, Green, Violet, Brown

You sir have the best pinside name I have seen.... it reminds me of playing kicker (shaolins road) in the arcade... your character would win a stage and the word “GUTS” would appear at the top of the screen. I would chuckle and go on to the next level. Great memory

“GUTZ!”

Thanks GUTZ it looks like you have 2 yellows together towards the right of your connectors, if you look at my photo I have a partial yellow coming out of the connector going into a green which the loose yellow could’ve come off of their, I will check my Manuel when I get home to see if the 2 wires need to be together in that one spot to the right, thanks again.

Just in the process to bring it up to life
Made some touch ups on the cab, polished it and now I need to install the old PF to see that it's working.
Afterwards I'm doing a PF swap to CPR Gold.

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I had the same exact problem last year and it was a blown fuse.

The manual colors are off of what my machine has installed, but for the GI lighting it isn't critical. The only critical part is that the stripped wire colors are in the same order as the solid color wires left to right. You have brown -yellow-green-violet solid, then striped colors of brown-yellow-green-violet. As long as they are in the same order, they will be on the correct "loops" for GI strings. The color order can be different machine to machine, too.

It looks like your 2nd from the right should be your solid green (but was scabbed with a white/yellow wire). The loose solid yellow wire should probably be connected to the other solid yellow which is 2nd from the left.

If you look at the gi lights that aren't working under the playfield - are they on the yellow GI string? Keep in mind you have to find where the GI colored wires start on the string, and the sockets could be jumpered one to the other with any color of wire (typically solid yellow).

I'm flattered but I've never played the game. Gutz is a nickname derived from my last name.

Apologies in advance if this is covered elsewhere in the 48 pages of posts, but I'm looking at a HS later this weekend and wanted to know if there's any gotcha's to look for specific to this pin? Seen vids of it and looks like it plays pretty well, though there is definite mylar peeling/missing on the playfield.

Thanks in advance!

Common areas of heavy wear are the left lane kickback, next to the escape hole where the ball kicks out, in front of the slings where the ball drops, and of course the pops. Look for cracks in the ramp, they can be hard to see. Check function of the topper red light and as FireGamer3 mentioned, run a couple of multi-ball sequences to ensure that both diverters and both hideouts work correctly.

Good luck, it's a great game!

Not sure what others have had happen to the diverter but the two of them are a single mechanism on one coil. The mechanism can get sloppy but it is not hard to repair. If an arm is broke, it might be hard to find.
Go to the coil test and lock it on the diverter coil and let it fire a bunch of times. Stick your finger in there and let it smack it. It should be solid on each one.

Thanks for all the advice!

I know going in that the Mylar is a mess in spots. Community seems torn in general on whether to leave it be or pull it up. Any thoughts specific to this table?

Since this will be my first table, I’m inclined to leave it. Plan is to fix up some of the minor cosmetics (e.g.: broken beacon light), enjoy it for a while, then sell/trade for the next.

I removed my Mylar with compressed air in a can turned upside down to freeze the Mylar. Came out nice.

That’s encouraging. Not expecting perfection, but presume you didn’t suffer too much paint loss in the process?

Also, did you clear coat it after or just re-Mylar?

How do you get the glue off? Is there a risk of taking paint off in the process?

If it gets messy, pick up a hardtop for it when those come out this year.

I got my HS in 1990. This was my first pin. The Mylar was bubbled in a few spots on the inserts. There was no forums to ask questions and I had no idea if it would work, but I used a hair dryer to remove it. This left most of the glue intact except where the bubbles were. The paint had already came loose when it bubbled. Removing the glue was a pain in the ass. But in the end it was worth it, the colors were brighter and more vibrate. I still have this pin and have only just used wax on the PF. It still looks as good as it did in 1990. For 20 years it was the only machine I had, so it got played a lot. Wax and new balls does wonders.

Here's one maybe someone else can help me solve. The left hideout likes to randomly fire during the game. I thought it might be the switches in it, but I've cleaned them thoroughly and it still happens. The hideout plays and works fine. But I'd love to figure this out since its annoying and adds extra wear to it.

Overly sensitive transistor? Or Flakey switch?

Self test seems to show the switch working just fine... I can't get it to fail except when playing the game.

Vibration and a flakey switch.

Guess I’m now the ranking FNG. Picked up a HS with some updates (LEDs, Freeplay40’s clear ramp, Pinscores) and clean looking boards. The PF is about what you would expect given its age (Mylar issues, wear in the standard places) and the back box is a mess. But, plays well and has a nearly perfect back glass.

Now to clean it up and level it!

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I used lighter fluid. Forget what the chemical is called in it.

No paint loss but others have not been so lucky. I should have warned about the risks. Most recommend to leave alone unless affecting gameplay. I chose to go with a playfield protector.

Not sure if there is a risk of paint loss with this chemical. I learned about this in one of Vids threads.

Naphtha

Ok, I'll order a new one and see what happens.

I have this exact same problem with mine. I haven’t replaced the switch(s) yet.

Last night I removed the Mylar on my HS. I am not against Mylar in general if it looks good, I had a police force that had factory mylar, a beautiful playfield. It does play slower but if it is nice I leave it alone.
This was my HS. The mylar was added later. The person who put it on did not see the need to clean the playfield prior to installation. It also looked like he laid it once askew, pulled it up and reseated it.

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I started with the pop bumper rings. I used a heat gun to gently warm them and remove them. The first one went fabulous. Left the glue behind but it was going well. On the other 2 pops it pulled up paint in some places and left the glue in others.

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