(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.


By lordloss

6 years ago



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  • 3,330 posts
  • 326 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by pacman11
  • Topic is favorited by 158 Pinsiders

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There are 3330 posts in this topic. You are on page 48 of 67.
#2351 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Remove the CPU board and look at the back of the J -18 pins 6 and 7. Are they connected to the perimeter ground plane?

Yes

#2352 1 year ago
Quoted from kermit24:

U49 1 and 2 have pulses. U50 pin 1 has pulse. Replaced Q77. Replaced Q76. Still does not work.

Check R-104 (68 ohms), and R-102 (2.7k ohms).

#2353 1 year ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Also both kickers and one more jet bumper are not firing in coil test.

In coil test for the left kicker check for pulses at U-49 pins 8 and 9.
For the right kicker check for pulses at U-49 pins 3 and 4.

#2354 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

In coil test for the left kicker check for pulses at U-49 pins 8 and 9.
For the right kicker check for pulses at U-49 pins 3 and 4.

All works now! I just needed bypass the ground like you said. That was why I had no special solonoids.

#2355 1 year ago
Quoted from kermit24:

All works now! I just needed bypass the ground like you said. That was why I had no special solonoids.

Playball!

#2356 1 year ago

Thanks for your help as always! You win my vote for most helpful Pinsider.

#2357 1 year ago

Just got the brand new Rottendog MPU9211 today! My High Speed project has been sitting for a few months because the original mpu that came in it had a bit of acid damage like usual. This is the new board that covers all games from system 9-11 including things like High Speed. I just installed it this afternoon. All I ordered was the "base" board so I swapped over my game/sound roms and 6808's. You can order it with the 6808's and game/sound roms already in place if you need to as well.

High Speed is now up and running!

Although, I did blow a transistor for the eject hole already....

Ordered up some of those sensitive FQP13N10L transistors.... should be back in business soon.

Got it all set up with new pinscore displays as well.

Next step: hardtop and shop out

#2358 1 year ago

Hey guys, hope you can help but I have a high speed pin and a problem, as you can see from the pic the GI on the left side of the machine are out, I'm not new to pinball but new to fixing them, does anyone have any suggestions on how I can begin to trouble shoot this problem?

Thanks for your help.

IMG_0253 (resized).JPG
#2359 1 year ago
Quoted from Nyraiderfan:

Hey guys, hope you can help but I have a high speed pin and a problem, as you can see from the pic the GI on the left side of the machine are out, I'm not new to pinball but new to fixing them, does anyone have any suggestions on how I can begin to trouble shoot this problem?
Thanks for your help.[quoted image]

Check your fuses.

#2360 1 year ago

I'm not in near mine, but I had a similar problem on mine about a year ago. Turned out the plug going to the CPU just needed to be re-seated. Look at your schematics to see which plus it is and try re-seating it. I want to say from memory it was on the right or bottom right side of the board, and was a smaller 5-6 pin connector...

#2361 1 year ago
Quoted from Nyraiderfan:

Hey guys, hope you can help but I have a high speed pin and a problem, as you can see from the pic the GI on the left side of the machine are out, I'm not new to pinball but new to fixing them, does anyone have any suggestions on how I can begin to trouble shoot this problem?
Thanks for your help.[quoted image]

Look for a melted connector on the power supply board.

#2362 1 year ago
Quoted from Nyraiderfan:

Hey guys, hope you can help but I have a high speed pin and a problem, as you can see from the pic the GI on the left side of the machine are out, I'm not new to pinball but new to fixing them, does anyone have any suggestions on how I can begin to trouble shoot this problem?
Thanks for your help.[quoted image]

Alex, I'll take "broken wire between the bulbs some where that would cut off anything in line after it".

#2363 1 year ago

Thanks everyone for your responses it is greatly appreciated, look at what I found, this is a connector on the power board just have to figure out how to reattach it, thanks again.

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#2364 1 year ago

The lose wire either belongs in the hole next to the other yellow wire above it or it needs to be reattached to the pin connector, going away on business but will follow up when I return.

#2365 1 year ago

One more pic of the entire board.

#2366 1 year ago
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#2367 1 year ago

If you look over to the right of the connector it looks like someone spliced a green wire to a yellow wire coming from the connector, wonder if the loose yellow was once where the green wire is connected to the yellow? I'll have to test the cut yellow to see if it's dead.

#2368 1 year ago

Never mind it looks like the yellow wire that is spliced into the green wire is actually beige with a yellow stripe.

#2369 1 year ago
Quoted from Nyraiderfan:

Never mind it looks like the yellow wire that is spliced into the green wire is actually beige with a yellow stripe.

If I remember, I will take a pic of mine tonight for reference.

#2370 1 year ago
Quoted from gutz:

If I remember, I will take a pic of mine tonight for reference.

The manual calls out, from left to right: white/yellow, white/green, white/violet, white/brown, EMPTY-key, Yellow, Green, Violet, Brown

#2371 1 year ago
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#2372 1 year ago
Quoted from gutz:

[quoted image]

You sir have the best pinside name I have seen.... it reminds me of playing kicker (shaolins road) in the arcade... your character would win a stage and the word “GUTS” would appear at the top of the screen. I would chuckle and go on to the next level. Great memory

“GUTZ!”

#2373 1 year ago
Quoted from gutz:

[quoted image]

Thanks GUTZ it looks like you have 2 yellows together towards the right of your connectors, if you look at my photo I have a partial yellow coming out of the connector going into a green which the loose yellow could’ve come off of their, I will check my Manuel when I get home to see if the 2 wires need to be together in that one spot to the right, thanks again.

#2374 1 year ago

Just in the process to bring it up to life
Made some touch ups on the cab, polished it and now I need to install the old PF to see that it's working.
Afterwards I'm doing a PF swap to CPR Gold.

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#2375 1 year ago
Quoted from Nyraiderfan:

Hey guys, hope you can help but I have a high speed pin and a problem, as you can see from the pic the GI on the left side of the machine are out, I'm not new to pinball but new to fixing them, does anyone have any suggestions on how I can begin to trouble shoot this problem?
Thanks for your help.[quoted image]

I had the same exact problem last year and it was a blown fuse.

#2376 1 year ago
Quoted from Nyraiderfan:

Thanks GUTZ it looks like you have 2 yellows together towards the right of your connectors, if you look at my photo I have a partial yellow coming out of the connector going into a green which the loose yellow could’ve come off of their, I will check my Manuel when I get home to see if the 2 wires need to be together in that one spot to the right, thanks again.

The manual colors are off of what my machine has installed, but for the GI lighting it isn't critical. The only critical part is that the stripped wire colors are in the same order as the solid color wires left to right. You have brown -yellow-green-violet solid, then striped colors of brown-yellow-green-violet. As long as they are in the same order, they will be on the correct "loops" for GI strings. The color order can be different machine to machine, too.

It looks like your 2nd from the right should be your solid green (but was scabbed with a white/yellow wire). The loose solid yellow wire should probably be connected to the other solid yellow which is 2nd from the left.

If you look at the gi lights that aren't working under the playfield - are they on the yellow GI string? Keep in mind you have to find where the GI colored wires start on the string, and the sockets could be jumpered one to the other with any color of wire (typically solid yellow).

#2377 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

You sir have the best pinside name I have seen.... it reminds me of playing kicker (shaolins road) in the arcade... your character would win a stage and the word “GUTS” would appear at the top of the screen. I would chuckle and go on to the next level. Great memory
“GUTZ!”

I'm flattered but I've never played the game. Gutz is a nickname derived from my last name.

#2378 1 year ago

Apologies in advance if this is covered elsewhere in the 48 pages of posts, but I'm looking at a HS later this weekend and wanted to know if there's any gotcha's to look for specific to this pin? Seen vids of it and looks like it plays pretty well, though there is definite mylar peeling/missing on the playfield.

Thanks in advance!

#2379 1 year ago
Quoted from cjchand:

Apologies in advance if this is covered elsewhere in the 48 pages of posts, but I'm looking at a HS later this weekend and wanted to know if there's any gotcha's to look for specific to this pin? Seen vids of it and looks like it plays pretty well, though there is definite mylar peeling/missing on the playfield.
Thanks in advance!

Check, double check and triple check the ramp diverters. Make sure they BOTH work

#2380 1 year ago
Quoted from cjchand:

Apologies in advance if this is covered elsewhere in the 48 pages of posts, but I'm looking at a HS later this weekend and wanted to know if there's any gotcha's to look for specific to this pin? Seen vids of it and looks like it plays pretty well, though there is definite mylar peeling/missing on the playfield.
Thanks in advance!

Common areas of heavy wear are the left lane kickback, next to the escape hole where the ball kicks out, in front of the slings where the ball drops, and of course the pops. Look for cracks in the ramp, they can be hard to see. Check function of the topper red light and as firegamer3 mentioned, run a couple of multi-ball sequences to ensure that both diverters and both hideouts work correctly.

Good luck, it's a great game!

#2381 1 year ago
Quoted from cjchand:

Apologies in advance if this is covered elsewhere in the 48 pages of posts, but I'm looking at a HS later this weekend and wanted to know if there's any gotcha's to look for specific to this pin? Seen vids of it and looks like it plays pretty well, though there is definite mylar peeling/missing on the playfield.
Thanks in advance!

Not sure what others have had happen to the diverter but the two of them are a single mechanism on one coil. The mechanism can get sloppy but it is not hard to repair. If an arm is broke, it might be hard to find.
Go to the coil test and lock it on the diverter coil and let it fire a bunch of times. Stick your finger in there and let it smack it. It should be solid on each one.

#2382 1 year ago

Thanks for all the advice!

I know going in that the Mylar is a mess in spots. Community seems torn in general on whether to leave it be or pull it up. Any thoughts specific to this table?

Since this will be my first table, I’m inclined to leave it. Plan is to fix up some of the minor cosmetics (e.g.: broken beacon light), enjoy it for a while, then sell/trade for the next.

#2383 1 year ago
Quoted from cjchand:

Thanks for all the advice!
I know going in that the Mylar is a mess in spots. Community seems torn in general on whether to leave it be or pull it up. Any thoughts specific to this table?
Since this will be my first table, I’m inclined to leave it. Plan is to fix up some of the minor cosmetics (e.g.: broken beacon light), enjoy it for a while, then sell/trade for the next.

I removed my Mylar with compressed air in a can turned upside down to freeze the Mylar. Came out nice.

#2384 1 year ago
Quoted from MJW:

I removed my Mylar with compressed air in a can turned upside down to freeze the Mylar. Came out nice.

That’s encouraging. Not expecting perfection, but presume you didn’t suffer too much paint loss in the process?

Also, did you clear coat it after or just re-Mylar?

#2385 1 year ago
Quoted from MJW:

I removed my Mylar with compressed air in a can turned upside down to freeze the Mylar. Came out nice.

How do you get the glue off? Is there a risk of taking paint off in the process?

#2386 1 year ago
Quoted from cjchand:

Thanks for all the advice!
I know going in that the Mylar is a mess in spots. Community seems torn in general on whether to leave it be or pull it up. Any thoughts specific to this table?
Since this will be my first table, I’m inclined to leave it. Plan is to fix up some of the minor cosmetics (e.g.: broken beacon light), enjoy it for a while, then sell/trade for the next.

If it gets messy, pick up a hardtop for it when those come out this year.

#2387 1 year ago
Quoted from cjchand:

I know going in that the Mylar is a mess in spots. Community seems torn in general on whether to leave it be or pull it up. Any thoughts specific to this table?

I got my HS in 1990. This was my first pin. The Mylar was bubbled in a few spots on the inserts. There was no forums to ask questions and I had no idea if it would work, but I used a hair dryer to remove it. This left most of the glue intact except where the bubbles were. The paint had already came loose when it bubbled. Removing the glue was a pain in the ass. But in the end it was worth it, the colors were brighter and more vibrate. I still have this pin and have only just used wax on the PF. It still looks as good as it did in 1990. For 20 years it was the only machine I had, so it got played a lot. Wax and new balls does wonders.

#2388 1 year ago

Here's one maybe someone else can help me solve. The left hideout likes to randomly fire during the game. I thought it might be the switches in it, but I've cleaned them thoroughly and it still happens. The hideout plays and works fine. But I'd love to figure this out since its annoying and adds extra wear to it.

#2389 1 year ago
Quoted from jeffr:

Here's one maybe someone else can help me solve. The left hideout likes to randomly fire during the game. I thought it might be the switches in it, but I've cleaned them thoroughly and it still happens. The hideout plays and works fine. But I'd love to figure this out since its annoying and adds extra wear to it.

Overly sensitive transistor? Or Flakey switch?

#2390 1 year ago
Quoted from cad-kid:

Overly sensitive transistor? Or Flakey switch?

Self test seems to show the switch working just fine... I can't get it to fail except when playing the game.

#2391 1 year ago
Quoted from jeffr:

I can't get it to fail except when playing the game.

Vibration and a flakey switch.

#2392 1 year ago

Guess I’m now the ranking FNG. Picked up a HS with some updates (LEDs, Freeplay40’s clear ramp, Pinscores) and clean looking boards. The PF is about what you would expect given its age (Mylar issues, wear in the standard places) and the back box is a mess. But, plays well and has a nearly perfect back glass.

Now to clean it up and level it!

image (resized).jpg
#2393 1 year ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

How do you get the glue off? Is there a risk of taking paint off in the process?

I used lighter fluid. Forget what the chemical is called in it.

#2394 1 year ago
Quoted from cjchand:

That’s encouraging. Not expecting perfection, but presume you didn’t suffer too much paint loss in the process?
Also, did you clear coat it after or just re-Mylar?

No paint loss but others have not been so lucky. I should have warned about the risks. Most recommend to leave alone unless affecting gameplay. I chose to go with a playfield protector.

#2395 1 year ago
Quoted from MJW:

I used lighter fluid. Forget what the chemical is called in it.

Not sure if there is a risk of paint loss with this chemical. I learned about this in one of Vids threads.

#2396 1 year ago

Naphtha

#2397 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Vibration and a flakey switch.

Ok, I'll order a new one and see what happens.

#2398 1 year ago
Quoted from jeffr:

Here's one maybe someone else can help me solve. The left hideout likes to randomly fire during the game. I thought it might be the switches in it, but I've cleaned them thoroughly and it still happens. The hideout plays and works fine. But I'd love to figure this out since its annoying and adds extra wear to it.

I have this exact same problem with mine. I haven’t replaced the switch(s) yet.

#2399 1 year ago

Last night I removed the Mylar on my HS. I am not against Mylar in general if it looks good, I had a police force that had factory mylar, a beautiful playfield. It does play slower but if it is nice I leave it alone.
This was my HS. The mylar was added later. The person who put it on did not see the need to clean the playfield prior to installation. It also looked like he laid it once askew, pulled it up and reseated it.

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#2400 1 year ago

I started with the pop bumper rings. I used a heat gun to gently warm them and remove them. The first one went fabulous. Left the glue behind but it was going well. On the other 2 pops it pulled up paint in some places and left the glue in others.

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