(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.


By lordloss

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 3,771 posts
  • 339 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by desertT1
  • Topic is favorited by 165 Pinsiders

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There are 3771 posts in this topic. You are on page 47 of 76.
#2301 1 year ago
Quoted from the_one:

I'm inda club as well .
But my playfield does not have any damage, fresh clearcoat on it. [quoted image]

I really need to invest in some proper spray equipment and get some of my games clear coated. That would be amazing to play on!

#2302 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

About to join, I think. Trading a working Rescue 911 for a High Speed with a locked coil. Playfield looks real nice though. Pinside shows value in their favor, but I prefer sys 11's mostly. Never played High Speed. Anyone have any thoughts on this trade? Also pins are limited in AK so hard to find specific games. Not like I can wait for the next HS.

I’d say do it and get the best deal you can in the trade.

#2303 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

About to join, I think. Trading a working Rescue 911 for a High Speed with a locked coil. Playfield looks real nice though. Pinside shows value in their favor, but I prefer sys 11's mostly. Never played High Speed. Anyone have any thoughts on this trade? Also pins are limited in AK so hard to find specific games. Not like I can wait for the next HS.

This trade is a no brainer. Classic Steve Ritchie flow, awesome sound package, an absolute classic. R911 isn't even close for me.

#2304 1 year ago

Thanks. I am happy with it, regardless of pinside values. I realy cannot get into 911. Saw some video of HS and I think I will like it.

#2305 1 year ago

High Speed for sure! Not too deep, but a great game to have competitions on. I have a fully restored High Speed and it will NEVER leave.

#2306 1 year ago

Tried searching the posts and can't find the answer. Anyone know what I need to replace for that left outlane kick back plunger? Mine is original and very worn down and at time will kick the ball out very well.

#2307 1 year ago
Quoted from bowtech:

Tried searching the posts and can't find the answer. Anyone know what I need to replace for that left outlane kick back plunger? Mine is original and very worn down and at time will kick the ball out very well.

I just looked for one of these myself, since the High Speed I bought was missing it all together. It is part number A-6306-2. Page 39 of the game manual shows the break down and all part numbers.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-6306-2

#2308 1 year ago

I got the “adjust failure” message so I replaced the batteries. Now I just powered it up again and get the same message. What might be causing this with fresh batteries?

#2309 1 year ago

Corrosion on pads, cold/cracked solder joint. Time to relocate batteries.

#2310 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I got the “adjust failure” message so I replaced the batteries. Now I just powered it up again and get the same message. What might be causing this with fresh batteries?

After changing batteries you have to go back in and scroll though adjustments to reset everything. Free Play will need to be set again. After this if it still happens you are not getting voltage to the RAM and losing settings again.

#2311 1 year ago
Quoted from Completist:

After changing batteries you have to go back in and scroll though adjustments to reset everything. Free Play will need to be set again. After this if it still happens you are not getting voltage to the RAM and losing settings again.

Isn't there a diode that affects this? Or was that on older system 4-6 type stuff? I want to say I had a Flash with this issue and it ended up being a 1n4004 or so diode on the mpu that wasn't letting voltage through?

#2312 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

What might be causing this with fresh batteries?

First check D-2 for an open. If D-2 is ok then replace the battery holder.

#2313 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-up:

Isn't there a diode that affects this? Or was that on older system 4-6 type stuff? I want to say I had a Flash with this issue and it ended up being a 1n4004 or so diode on the mpu that wasn't letting voltage through?

I was just making sure settings were updated after first power up after batteries were replaced. Easy things first, i read original post as machine turned on after batteries replaced and got that message.

#2314 1 year ago
Quoted from Completist:

After changing batteries you have to go back in and scroll though adjustments to reset everything. Free Play will need to be set again. After this if it still happens you are not getting voltage to the RAM and losing settings again.

I changed batteries with the game on, and then played a few times and powered off. Turned it back on a little later without issues to play a few more times. That was yesterday. Today, loaded it up and took it to my location.

Quoted from GRUMPY:

First check D-2 for an open. If D-2 is ok then replace the battery holder.

Not sure I’m following in what an open ad D-2 means. Can you dumb it down just a touch for me.

#2315 1 year ago

Ok - then i’d say the others have you on the right path with the diode check. Diode is on the mpu (or added to a remote battery pack) which prevents the batteries from being charged when the game is on. If this has failed open the game will be charging the alkaline batteries which will kill them quickly. If the new batteries are dead or putting out low voltage already then quite likely this is your issue.

#2317 1 year ago
Quoted from Completist:

Ok - then i’d say the others have you on the right path with the diode check. Diode is on the mpu (or added to a remote battery pack) which prevents the batteries from being charged when the game is on. If this has failed open the game will be charging the alkaline batteries which will kill them quickly. If the new batteries are dead or putting out low voltage already then quite likely this is your issue.

Ok, I actually didn't know that there is a diode on the board to prevent batteries from being charged. Considering it's got AA's on there, never crossed my mind.

Grumpy, I tried quoting you as well, but looks like the browser I'm on is not having it. As noted above, I hadn't even considered there being a diode to keep the batteries from getting charged, because why? I would have assumed that it would have been a separate circuit and charging isn't possible. So literally, D2, check it. Got it.

#2318 1 year ago

Terry from Pinball Life has informed me that the stoplight 3D printer project is not cost effective. He is returning my original stop light that was used as a sample.

#2319 1 year ago

Is the shapeways stoplight of no interest?

#2320 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Is the shapeways stoplight of no interest?

Don’t know. I do not need one . Just submitted mine for an example . Maybe you could post a link for people missing stoplight. How does it look?

#2321 1 year ago
Quoted from MJW:

Terry from Pinball Life has informed me that the stoplight 3D printer project is not cost effective. He is returning my original stop light that was used as a sample.

I just stopped by and spoke briefly with Terry today and picked up the one example that was made. It looks great and fits perfect, but it would have to be priced at around $50 to make cents, so there is probably not going to be any demand for that part at that price to make it worth while. It was also clear coated after it was made. Possibly in the future as the 3d printing industry evolves and costs come down......?

MJW Thanks so much for volunteering up your traffic light for an example to give all of this a try. It is much appreciated!

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#2322 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-up:

but it would have to be priced at around $50

Lots of people it the hobby are ridiculously cheap.
However, there are just as many not so concerned with selling their game for a profit as making it as nice as it can be.
I personally do not think $50 is overpriced unless there is another alternative.

#2323 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-up:

I just stopped by and spoke briefly with Terry today and picked up the one example that was made. It looks great and fits perfect, but it would have to be priced at around $50 to make cents, so there is probably not going to be any demand for that part at that price to make it worth while. It was also clear coated after it was made. Possibly in the future as the 3d printing industry evolves and costs come down......?
MJW Thanks so much for volunteering up your traffic light for an example to give all of this a try. It is much appreciated!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

No problem. Glad you got the prototype. Looks good.

#2324 1 year ago
Quoted from MJW:

No problem. Glad you got the prototype. Looks good.

Now to find you a bumper cap......

#2325 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-up:

I just stopped by and spoke briefly with Terry today and picked up the one example that was made. It looks great and fits perfect, but it would have to be priced at around $50 to make cents, so there is probably not going to be any demand for that part at that price to make it worth while. It was also clear coated after it was made. Possibly in the future as the 3d printing industry evolves and costs come down......?
MJW Thanks so much for volunteering up your traffic light for an example to give all of this a try. It is much appreciated!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Wow, he did a really nice job on that! Too bad he can’t mass produce them cheaper.

#2326 1 year ago
Quoted from MJW:

Now to find you a bumper cap......

Hah yeah shes a little beat up. Waiting on that hardtop

Did you miss the painted on stop light on the playfield next to it? Lol

#2327 1 year ago

Classic arcades sells pop caps.
Set of 3 $20.
They are not hot stamped as advertised but they look ok.

#2328 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-up:

Hah yeah shes a little beat up. Waiting on that hardtop
Did you miss the painted on stop light on the playfield next to it? Lol

I totally did. Lol. Custom mod.

1 week later
#2329 1 year ago

I've noticed that the circle of triangulated inserts on the lower playfield containing RPM, Redline, and X Values, are not rotating round and round when in attract mode. They do fine when in normal game play. They are all led's. Thoughts?

Getaway RPM Circle (resized).jpg
#2330 1 year ago
Quoted from seah2os:

I've noticed that the circle of triangulated inserts on the lower playfield containing RPM, Redline, and X Values, are not rotating round and round when in attract mode. They do fine when in normal game play. They are all led's. Thoughts?
[quoted image]

You have the sequel to the game being discussed here

Different system all together

These are the droids you’re looking for
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin

#2331 1 year ago

Dooh! My apologies.

Quoted from Chosen_S:

You have the sequel to the game being discussed here
Different system all together
These are the droids you’re looking for
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin

#2332 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

You have the sequel to the game being discussed here
Different system all together
These are the droids you’re looking for
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin

Yeah, get lost!

But you're welcome back if you upgrade to the original High Speed.

#2333 1 year ago

Just picked up my High Speed! Traded Rescue 911.

20181227_162001 (resized).jpg
#2335 1 year ago

Hoping someone can help me out. I recently got a HS project. Almost done with it and buttoning up loose ends.

I have two red and a brown/violet wires hanging in the back box between power supply and MPU. The reds are different shades.

The reds and brown/purple comes up from cabinet along with a gray/yellow. One red and the gray/yellow goes to the connection board with/resistor near the topper relay in back box. Red then returns out of that connection board and goes down and is zip tied back into the other red and brown/violet wires where they are now just hanging.

Can anyone help me out? I looked on the schematic, I don't see any brown/violet...

Thanks

#2336 1 year ago
Quoted from Chisel:

Hoping someone can help me out. I recently got a HS project. Almost done with it and buttoning up loose ends.
I have two red and a brown/violet wires hanging in the back box between power supply and MPU. The reds are different shades.
The reds and brown/purple comes up from cabinet along with a gray/yellow. One red and the gray/yellow goes to the connection board with/resistor near the topper relay in back box. Red then returns out of that connection board and goes down and is zip tied back into the other red and brown/violet wires where they are now just hanging.
Can anyone help me out? I looked on the schematic, I don't see any brown/violet...
Thanks

Photos of what you are talking about help greatly.

#2337 1 year ago
Quoted from Chisel:

The reds and brown/purple

These go on the knocker coil.

#2338 1 year ago

Grumpy, somehow I knew you might chime in with the answer. Thank you!

So I've since found pictures showing the red and brown violet on the knocker, which my knocker is missing but what about the second red that comes back down from the relay resistor board?

I'm working on pics but my phone is not cooperating atm...

C2B0A1FB-AEDA-45EB-9FE8-47AC3A6C4A9A (resized).jpeg
#2339 1 year ago

Both reds go on the knocker coil. One red is the power wire, the other red wire is the power for the beacon which comes from the knocker.

#2340 1 year ago

Thanks for the help with this. I guess until I get a knocker I can just twist the reds together and tape them up. The brown too.

Thanks everyone!

#2341 1 year ago
Quoted from Chisel:

Thanks for the help with this. I guess until I get a knocker I can just twist the reds together and tape them up. The brown too.
Thanks everyone!

Yep.

1 week later
#2342 1 year ago

Happy new year everyone, not sure if this this has been mentioned before but I purchased a high speed pin a couple of weeks ago and I'm looking to upgrade to LED's, there are 2 types of kits available one where you need to remove the warming resistors for flashers and one where you don't need to remove anything but won't expiereince the flashers, does anyone have a video of the difference visually? I would like to take the safe way out and not mess with the resistors but want the best expiereince possible.
Thanks in advance

#2343 1 year ago
Quoted from Nyraiderfan:

I would like to take the safe way out and not mess with the resistors

I have LED'ed probably 15 system 11's this way. Nobody that has played my games has ever said "This was fun, but would have been much more fun if you would have removed the warming resistors and gotten LED flashers in there, you lazy fool" or something to that effect.

#2344 1 year ago

Moving to this thread since the board is now in a High Speed. Issue: upper left jet bumper not working. grumpy

Quoted from GRUMPY:

Use your logic probe on U-49 pin 1 and pin 2 in coil test. Do you have pulses? Yes, the check U-50 pin 1, do you have pulses? Yes, then replace Q-76. Let me know what you find.

U49 1 and 2 have pulses. U50 pin 1 has pulse. Replaced Q77. Replaced Q76. Still does not work.

Also both kickers and one more jet bumper are not firing in coil test.

Edit: 11A board may need a jumper to work properly in HS. Researching.

#2345 1 year ago
Quoted from dozer1:

I have LED'ed probably 15 system 11's this way. Nobody that has played my games has ever said "This was fun, but would have been much more fun if you would have removed the warming resistors and gotten LED flashers in there, you lazy fool" or something to that effect.

Lol thanks for the quick response it's not that I'm lazy just scared.

#2346 1 year ago

nyraiderfan I hear ya. My point is, I would'nt bother with it. Others will have a different opinion on that. To me, the GI and insert lights are the important ones to LED.

#2347 1 year ago
Quoted from Nyraiderfan:

Lol thanks for the quick response it's not that I'm lazy just scared.

I switched over to LED flashers in mine. I was also nervous about it at the time, being new to pins, but it’s no big deal at all.

In my current restoration, since I have no intention of ever using regular bulbs I replaced the other resistors with new and removed the warming resistors completely.

If you think there’s a chance that you or a future buyer will want to go back to regular bulbs, you can lift one of the legs of the warming resistors and tape it off with electrical tape (that’s what I did). You can also remove one of the ground wires (search this thread for the procedure).

8959BD7D-65A3-4A4F-9B52-5D129879EF25 (resized).jpeg
#2348 1 year ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Moving to this thread since the board is now in a High Speed. Issue: upper left jet bumper not working. grumpy

U49 1 and 2 have pulses. U50 pin 1 has pulse. Replaced Q77. Replaced Q76. Still does not work.
Also both kickers and one more jet bumper are not firing in coil test. Could it be a PIA?

If this is a system 11a board in a system 11 game you will need to add a jumper on the back of the board.

#2349 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

If this is a system 11a board in a system 11 game you will need to add a jumper on the back of the board.

Oh ok. Do you have a link or instructions on how to do that?

#2350 1 year ago

Remove the CPU board and look at the back of the J -18 pins 6 and 7. Are they connected to the perimeter ground plane?

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