(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.


By lordloss

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by desertT1
  • Topic is favorited by 165 Pinsiders

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There are 3771 posts in this topic. You are on page 46 of 76.
#2251 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Anyway, rebuilt the power supply and now this is what I get.

You need to install a voltmeter on the 5 volt test points on the CPU. Retest and note the voltage for DC and AC.

#2252 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You need to install a voltmeter on the 5 volt test points on the CPU. Retest and note the voltage for DC and AC.

4.93 DC

0.00 AC

#2253 1 year ago

Does it fluctuate when you start a game.

#2254 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Does it fluctuate when you start a game.

If I could I would let you know, but now all it wants to do is give me a “0” on the MPU, but not audio, insert lighting, or displays.

#2255 1 year ago

Terry from Pinball life sent me an update. The stoplight is not looking like a good candidate for the type of 3D printer they have access to. I’ll post if I hear anything further.

#2256 1 year ago
Quoted from MJW:

Terry from Pinball life sent me an update. The stoplight is not looking like a good candidate for the type of 3D printer they have access to. I’ll post if I hear anything further.

So I have an injection molding machine and have been starting to look for smaller things to make to get a little more experience with it. This part seems right up my alley, but I don't think I'd be able to sell enough at $31 to make it worth the effort to have the mold made, knowing what previous molds have cost.

Reference: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-10999

#2257 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

So I have an injection molding machine and have been starting to look for smaller things to make to get a little more experience with it. This part seems right up my alley, but I don't think I'd be able to sell enough at $31 to make it worth the effort to have the mold made, knowing what previous molds have cost.
Reference: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-10999

It's a tough one for sure. Need 100's if not 1000's to make it worth while. Not sure what folks would pay but there is certainly a need. Do it as a labor of love for the community!

#2258 1 year ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

It's a tough one for sure. Need 100's if not 1000's to make it worth while. Not sure what folks would pay but there is certainly a need. Do it as a labor of love for the community!

If I had my own CNC mill and would be able to make the molds myself it wouldn't be a big deal. I'm wondering if there is even a chance at getting to break-even on that. I design my own molds, so it's not nearly as expensive as you typically read about. When you get to that stage, it's no different than any other job to the machine shop that makes the parts.

Consider it on the table. You are actually the exact person I thought of when debating pros/cons of taking on the task. Can you make any ramp you want as long as you don't add decals? Just wondering how many hoops there are to jump through.

#2259 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Consider it on the table. You are actually the exact person I thought of when debating pros/cons of taking on the task. Can you make any ramp you want as long as you don't add decals? Just wondering how many hoops there are to jump through.

PM sent

#2260 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

If I had my own CNC mill and would be able to make the molds myself it wouldn't be a big deal. I'm wondering if there is even a chance at getting to break-even on that. I design my own molds, so it's not nearly as expensive as you typically read about. When you get to that stage, it's no different than any other job to the machine shop that makes the parts.
Consider it on the table. You are actually the exact person I thought of when debating pros/cons of taking on the task. Can you make any ramp you want as long as you don't add decals? Just wondering how many hoops there are to jump through.

Bummer that Terry can’t make it, much appreciated if you can figure out a way!

#2261 1 year ago
Quoted from MJW:

Terry from Pinball life sent me an update. The stoplight is not looking like a good candidate for the type of 3D printer they have access to. I’ll post if I hear anything further.

Well, it was worth a shot! The search continues.

#2262 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-up:

Well, it was worth a shot! The search continues.

How many people need one of those?

Also, anyone got any ideas in my issue above? MPU shows a “0” (RAM passes) but won’t continue the boot process all the way.

#2263 1 year ago

Why can’t the guy who makes the Getaway light on a 3D printer sold on Shapeways do the same for High Speed I think he goes by swinks

#2264 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Also, anyone got any ideas in my issue above? MPU shows a “0”

A zero is booted.

Quoted from desertT1:

but not audio, insert lighting, or displays.

I would start with checking voltages. 5,12,-12,100,-100,18 and 32. If you don't how or where to check let me know.

#2265 1 year ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

Why can’t the guy who makes the Getaway light on a 3D printer sold on Shapeways do the same for High Speed I think he goes by swinks

I have alot of stuff up at Shapeways but not Getaway stuff that is this guy, check out his traffic lights etc

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/olligpinballmods?sort=newest

a shame the timing as the sale just ended

#2266 1 year ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

Bummer that Terry can’t make it, much appreciated if you can figure out a way!

Terry has not given up yet. He’s getting a quote from someone with a high end printer . Probably won’t be cost effective but he’s looking in to it. I’ll keep the club posted.

#2267 1 year ago
Quoted from MJW:

Terry has not given up yet. He’s getting a quote from someone with a high end printer . Probably won’t be cost effective but he’s looking in to it. I’ll keep the club posted.

Great, thanks! If it’s a good replica I would def be willing to pay the price of an nos one

#2268 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

A zero is booted.

I would start with checking voltages. 5,12,-12,100,-100,18 and 32. If you don't how or where to check let me know.

If you don’t mind, I’d happily accept that offer.

#2269 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I’d happily accept that offer

First off I normally remove all connectors from the power supply except the two lower rectangle ones in the box in pic #1.

Going to list average readings that you should see from these TP (test point)
TP1 5.062V Pic #2.
TP3 14.60V Pic #4.
TP4 -14.94V Pic #3.
Fuse 2 42.49V both sides Pic #5.
Fuse 3 19.66V both sides Pic #5.
Fuse 4 42.46V both sides Pic #5.
J5 Pin 3 -103.5 Pic #6.
J5 Pin 4 104.6 Pic #6.
J5 pin 6 5.062V Pic #6.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#2270 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

First off I normally remove all connectors from the power supply except the two lower rectangle ones in the box in pic #1.
Going to list average readings that you should see from these TP (test point)
TP1 5.062V Pic #2.
TP3 14.60V Pic #4.
TP4 -14.94V Pic #3.
Fuse 2 42.49V both sides Pic #5.
Fuse 3 19.66V both sides Pic #5.
Fuse 4 42.46V both sides Pic #5.
J5 Pin 3 -103.5 Pic #6.
J5 Pin 4 104.6 Pic #6.
J5 pin 6 5.062V Pic #6.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you sir. Can I confirm your suggested location for the negative lead on the DMM? Ground braid? Ground plane of the power supply board? Elsewhere?

#2271 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Can I confirm your suggested location for the negative lead on the DMM?

When testing DC voltage, black lead always to ground. That being said you can use the ground braid if in good condition, any circuit board screw head or the back plane as its metal in this game.

#2272 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

First off I normally remove all connectors from the power supply except the two lower rectangle ones in the box in pic #1.
Going to list average readings that you should see from these TP (test point)
TP1 5.062V Pic #2.
TP3 14.60V Pic #4.
TP4 -14.94V Pic #3.
Fuse 2 42.49V both sides Pic #5.
Fuse 3 19.66V both sides Pic #5.
Fuse 4 42.46V both sides Pic #5.
J5 Pin 3 -103.5 Pic #6.
J5 Pin 4 104.6 Pic #6.
J5 pin 6 5.062V Pic #6.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Everything listed above checks out on my end.

#2273 1 year ago
Quoted from swinks:

I have alot of stuff up at Shapeways but not Getaway stuff that is this guy, check out his traffic lights etc
https://www.shapeways.com/shops/olligpinballmods?sort=newest
a shame the timing as the sale just ended

I see that - thirty bucks just for the WALLS of Donut heaven? That's high. If I could find the STL I'm sure it wouldn't take more than a buck to print those three walls. I just picked up a Getaway - and it needs some love. Maybe that will be my motivation to make the design cheaper or even put it on Thingverse.

#2274 1 year ago
Quoted from pb456:

I see that - thirty bucks just for the WALLS of Donut heaven? That's high. If I could find the STL I'm sure it wouldn't take more than a buck to print those three walls. I just picked up a Getaway - and it needs some love. Maybe that will be my motivation to make the design cheaper or even put it on Thingverse.

There’s a big difference between a professional company printing laser sintered parts on $40-$80k machines and a hobbiest printing parts on a $400 extrusion printer. I’ve printed stuff the size of a cupped hand in a pretty common material and they were $150 a pop. Amazing surface finish, which is what I wanted, but the good stuff isn’t cheap.

#2275 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Everything listed above checks out on my end.

Reconnect all the connectors on the power supply. Turn on the game.
Now check the blanking signal with your voltmeter set to DC volts, black lead to ground and red lead to a silver spot on the CPU board that says BLANKING It's written upside down just above U-20 pin 2. What do you read?

#2276 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Reconnect all the connectors on the power supply. Turn on the game.
Now check the blanking signal with your voltmeter set to DC volts, black lead to ground and red lead to a silver spot on the CPU board that says BLANKING It's written upside down just above U-20 pin 2. What do you read?

I have 4.04 VDC

#2277 1 year ago

Leave it to grumpy to have the cleanest power supply I have ever seen in a Sys11... fresh header pins, new caps, shiny heat sink...Bravo, sir!

#2278 1 year ago
Quoted from xeneize:

Leave it to grumpy to have the cleanest power supply I have ever seen in a Sys11

I don't want to mislead anyone here, this is not my power supply. I rebuilt this power supply for heni1977 when he was having problems with his F-14.
His bridge rectifier shorted out and he said he wasn't ready for that much just yet. So I gave it a once over for him GRUMPY style.
I believe the single most important thing you can do when you get a new machine is to rebuild the power supply, after that you will have very few electronic problems.

#2279 1 year ago

Hiya... I just picked up a High Speed so I'm happy to be part of the club. This is my second pin and the first one that'll need some work to get going. My plan is to get it operational before I work on the aesthetics.

#2280 1 year ago

What is the best way to protect the playfield from further damage?

#2281 1 year ago
Quoted from Daditude:

What is the best way to protect the playfield from further damage?

I’m sure you know there are playfield protectors.. I have one and am happy with it.

#2282 1 year ago
Quoted from MJW:

I’m sure you know there are playfield protectors.. I have one and am happy with it.

I have heard that the newest version playfield protectors are very good. Is yours the new thinner version?

Clear coating sounds like a real pain in the neck.
If i could find one...the official release of the new high speed playfields would probably be the best option, though im sure it would be quite expensive...if you could find one, of course.

#2283 1 year ago

Hi Club, I finally got my first pin, High Speed about a month ago and like others in this club I think it will never leave as I add hopefully more pins in the future. It works well and is in pretty good shape
I am wanting to make some mods that I have seen on the internet. First, I want to update the Police light beacon with more modern police LED light bars. I have seen that Amazon sells something that I could mount on top and trigger off the 28 VAC from the existing motor/light beacon such as shown here amazon.com link »
Has anyone with a HS done this recently, and if so what did you use and how did you wire it in? I am comfortable doing my own electrical mods and have some ideas, but looking to see if others have done it.
Thanks in advance for your help and advice.

#2284 1 year ago

Welcome to the club new members

#2285 1 year ago
Quoted from kirkgray:

Has anyone with a HS done this recently, and if so what did you use and how did you wire it in?

When your ready to install this I can help with the connections if you like.

#2286 1 year ago
Quoted from Daditude:

I have heard that the newest version playfield protectors are very good. Is yours the new thinner version?
Clear coating sounds like a real pain in the neck.
If i could find one...the official release of the new high speed playfields would probably be the best option, though im sure it would be quite expensive...if you could find one, of course.

Pretty sure mines an older one. Didn’t have to adjust any switches and no problems. Protector seems to be the Easiest and cheapest route. I think you can buy an overlay also .

#2287 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I have 4.04 VDC

I don't want to get too buried. Is this an acceptable voltage on the blanking signal?

#2288 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I don't want to get too buried. Is this an acceptable voltage on the blanking signal?

Yes, 2-5 volts from where you measured it is fine. I betting that you have a poor connection somewhere on the CPU board. This could be a bad socket or a loose chip. I would start by carefully reseating U-15, U-26 and U-27. I normally pull out the board that I want to reseat chips on. Then I place the board on hard flat surface and then gently pry up each end of the chip with a very small screwdriver, Not to remove but to just lift a bit. Then press the chip straight back down with firm even pressure until it doesn't move anymore. A good pic of the board set could help by getting a bunch more eyes on the situation. When troubleshooting I find 70% of my problems with my eyes.

#2289 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Yes, 2-5 volts from where you measured it is fine. I betting that you have a poor connection somewhere on the CPU board. This could be a bad socket or a loose chip. I would start by carefully reseating U-15, U-26 and U-27. I normally pull out the board that I want to reseat chips on. Then I place the board on hard flat surface and then gently pry up each end of the chip with a very small screwdriver, Not to remove but to just lift a bit. Then press the chip straight back down with firm even pressure until it doesn't move anymore. A good pic of the board set could help by getting a bunch more eyes on the situation. When troubleshooting I find 70% of my problems with my eyes.

Sounds like a plan, thanks.

#2290 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Sounds like a plan, thanks.

I pulled the board, reseated those chips, put everything back in, confirmed everything was plugged in. I get a zero on the MPU, GI is on, but nothing more.

#2291 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I pulled the board, reseated those chips, put everything back in, confirmed everything was plugged in. I get a zero on the MPU, GI is on, but nothing more.

Next thing to try is replacing the CPU chip U-15.

#2292 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Next thing to try is replacing the CPU chip U-15.

Bummer. I have a second High Speed that is in storage and worked when I put it away (waiting on hardtop) so I will try to pull the MPU off that and see what happens. I have to put a parts order in for various stuff, so I’ll add U15
To the list.

#2293 1 year ago

I swapped the CPU with the one in my other HS. The one I’m troubleshooting didn’t boot. For fun, I put the pulled CPU in the other HS. It booted. I think I might swap MPUs just for a short term functioning HS, assuming the issue is the MPU.

I was thinking. I was having rare booting issues on my Diner and somebody awesome suggested replacing C30. That has resolved the booting issues. It was similar to what HS is doing. GI would come on but no inserts, audio, or display. The difference being that was rarely happening with Diner and this came up all of a sudden. I bought spares, but they are in the cab of one of my location games. I get some sort of readings on C30 but they are a little bit all over the place. I get similar results with another new cap, so it might just me being a novice with this new DMM. C30 May be good for all I know.

#2294 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I get some sort of readings on C30 but they are a little bit all over the place.

A standard DMM will not test caps. You can take a new cap of the correct size and put alligator clips on it and then attach it to the old C-30 cap leads without removing it. If it boots with the new cap connected, then the old cap needs to be replaced. But your old board was booting and had a good blanking signal, so it wasn't the C-30 cap.

#2295 1 year ago
Quoted from Daditude:

What is the best way to protect the playfield from further damage?

I'm inda club as well .
But my playfield does not have any damage, fresh clearcoat on it.

FEC3BCF9-FAE9-4E92-B363-1ED3EF7765E6 (resized).jpeg
#2296 1 year ago

Did CPR ever make a run of these playfields?

#2297 1 year ago

Yes, but sold out. Guess they made only 125.

#2298 1 year ago
Quoted from the_one:

Yes, but sold out. Guess they made only 125.

Maybe with the new process they are switching too, they will be available. But in the mean time-

If anyone has a CPR gold uninstalled pf for available- shoot me a pm.

#2299 1 year ago

Welcome to the club

#2300 1 year ago

About to join, I think. Trading a working Rescue 911 for a High Speed with a locked coil. Playfield looks real nice though. Pinside shows value in their favor, but I prefer sys 11's mostly. Never played High Speed. Anyone have any thoughts on this trade? Also pins are limited in AK so hard to find specific games. Not like I can wait for the next HS.

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