4 Aces
Williams, 1970
Baby Pac-Man
Bally, 1982
Buck Rogers
Mambelli, 1980
Camel Lights
Game Plan, 1978
Comet
Williams, 1985
Cyclone
Williams, 1988
Genesis
Gottlieb, 1986
Getaway: High Speed II, The
Williams, 1992Here is one that came up on my High Speed: When I power up the game, I hear the relays clicking under the playfield. The start button won't start a game. The first time I press start 3 relays (under the playfield) click a few times and then stop. I can go into solenoid test and switch test and everything works properly.
Any ideas on this one?
Quoted from kermit24:Here is one that came up on my High Speed: When I power up the game, I hear the relays clicking under the playfield. The start button won't start a game. The first time I press start 3 relays (under the playfield) click a few times and then stop. I can go into solenoid test and switch test and everything works properly.
Any ideas on this one?
Sounds like the game is looking for a ball. Be sure you have 3 balls in the game and that when they are in the ball trough, they are all registering.
Quoted from Freeplay40:Sounds like the game is looking for a ball. Be sure you have 3 balls in the game and that when they are in the ball trough, they are all registering.
Nope that’s not it.
Quoted from desertT1:Can you manually actuate it and see if anything is off? It all looks attached from the picture.
Yes, it looks fine and the actuator moves the left diverter, but the right side just spins around the shaft and doesn't catch it to move it. It looks like, from some other threads, that the outer part is crimped somehow to the inner part that would spin the shaft, but I can't find that part or what I can do to fix it.
Quoted from kermit24:Nope that’s not it.
Check the switch right above the ball shooter. It needs to sense the ball there after the game starts and it pops one out of the trough. It will try a few times, then give up from what I recall.
Quoted from PiLgRiM:Yes, it looks fine and the actuator moves the left diverter, but the right side just spins around the shaft and doesn't catch it to move it. It looks like, from some other threads, that the outer part is crimped somehow to the inner part that would spin the shaft, but I can't find that part or what I can do to fix it.
I think there is a roll pin that locks the shaft to the arm. It maybe broken.
Quoted from PiLgRiM:Check the switch right above the ball shooter. It needs to sense the ball there after the game starts and it pops one out of the trough. It will try a few times, then give up from what I recall.
It’s not that. None of the playfield solonoids will fire. At all. They won’t even feed them into the trough. If I manually put them into the trough a game will start. But none of the playfield solonoids fire. Just the flippers work.
All fuses are good. I can hear the these three relays clicking a few times.
47FCCF34-B4F3-4E51-A84D-9B397884FDDA (resized).jpeg5650B259-1BAD-4EA3-B5D2-CC4145A29E78 (resized).jpegD79A1D98-4995-4710-AF6A-3D780A9EE335 (resized).jpegQuoted from kermit24:All fuses are good
There is a lone 2.5 amp fuse in the back box that is blown.
Quoted from GRUMPY:There is a lone 2.5 amp fuse in the back box that is blown.
Damn. You had me excited for a minute. This fuse is fine unfortunately. All solonoids work fine in test.
Quoted from kermit24:It’s not that. None of the playfield solonoids will fire. At all. They won’t even feed them into the trough. If I manually put them into the trough a game will start. But none of the playfield solonoids fire. Just the flippers work.
All fuses are good. I can hear the these three relays clicking a few times.
Check ground at 3J3 in the power supply. That’s where those relays need to connect to ground to fire the connected solenoids.
Quoted from PiLgRiM:Check ground at 3J3 in the power supply. That’s where those relays need to connect to ground to fire the connected solenoids.
That was it. You are da man.
Quoted from GRUMPY:I think there is a roll pin that locks the shaft to the arm. It maybe broken.
I've seen this first hand before. The arm to the shaft is a simple crimp. That crimp has likely failed. If so, best fix is to get someone to weld it at the crimps.
Quoted from Freeplay40:I've seen this first hand before. The arm to the shaft is a simple crimp. That crimp has likely failed. If so, best fix is to get someone to weld it at the crimps.
What if I don't have access to a welder? I can see on the left side where the crimp is but I don't know how to duplicate a fix on the right side.
I was really getting into HS and thinking about buying one until I realized that you can just ignore the standups and hit the left ramp over and over since it spots you stoplight targets. I was wondering though, does the game have a setting for the number of spotlight targets that the left ramp spots you? That would be great if you could set it to zero or one IMO so that the standups are still an important part of the game.
Quoted from MrFancy:I was really getting into HS and thinking about buying one until I realized that you can just ignore the standups and hit the left ramp over and over since it spots you stoplight targets. I was wondering though, does the game have a setting for the number of spotlight targets that the left ramp spots you? That would be great if you could set it to zero or one IMO so that the standups are still an important part of the game.
Yep, there are settings for if the ramp (or the kickout hole) will award a stoplight lamp.
Are people really looping it over and over like the ST warp ramp? I was actually surprised recently when I found that the right saucer will award a light as well. It's nice to know that there are settings for this in case something becomes too dominant in events that I run, but the game only recently went out, and promptly went down in spite of a lot of play testing at home. Seems to always happen though. After a few weeks of testing/repairs it should be solid.
Quoted from MrFancy:I was really getting into HS and thinking about buying one until I realized that you can just ignore the standups and hit the left ramp over and over since it spots you stoplight targets. I was wondering though, does the game have a setting for the number of spotlight targets that the left ramp spots you? That would be great if you could set it to zero or one IMO so that the standups are still an important part of the game.
On factory settings the ramp only spots 1 light. The scoop feed to the upper flipper is pretty bad on most High Speeds.
I'm not sure why shooting standups (6 of which are fairly difficult to shoot directly and more likely to be collected from random bumper bounces) sounds more appealing to you than shooting the ramp, but if it does you certainly can change the ramp to award 0 lights.
I think a better option though is to make the return from the hideouts difficult to control, as well as setting the game up steep and fast so that missed ramp shots gets punished more often.
Quoted from SkyKing2301:Every once in a while the ball gets airborne and gets stuck in the trees on the left. Any suggestions for prevention that won't look terrible?
[quoted image]
That happens to mine as well but I’m pretty sure it’s due to a bad playfield. Depending on playfield conditions things can get airborne. Sometimes my ball will go to the right hideout as well without even hitting it up the ramp
I can’t for the life of me figure out what’s wrong with my top playfield flashers. I replaced both bulbs and the warming resistors test ok. Outside of that, can’t figure out how these two bulbs are wired back to the cpu board because the wire colors don’t match up (there’s no evidence of a previous owner rewire) and I can’t figure out what voltage I should be getting out of the solenoid sockets on the MPU.
Anyone have any experience with this circuit specifically? Thanks!
Quoted from PiLgRiM:Anyone have any experience with this circuit specifically?
I think I can help you, if my memory serves me the power (32 volts DC) comes on a red wire to the left bulb socket (#63 bulb). Thru the bulb and leaves on a brown wire to the right bulb socket (#63 bulb). #63 bulbs are 7 volt dc bulbs. Then it leaves the right socket on an orange wire back to the resistor board. Connected to the orange wire on the resistor board is 2 resistors, the first is a 330 ohm resistor and it connects to 2 black wires which are connected to ground. This allows power to flow thru both bulbs and the 330 ohm resistor to ground which will warm the filaments so they light brighter and quicker. The second resistor is a 10 ohm resistor. The other side of this resistor has a blue /black wire connected to it. The blue/black wire goes to the cpu to turn on and off the bulbs. So when the cpu grounds the blue/black wire power will now flow thru both bulbs and thru the 10 ohm resistor and then to ground. Since there is less resistance the bulbs will light fully now.
Quoted from GRUMPY:I think I can help you, if my memory serves me the power (32 volts DC) comes on a red wire to the left bulb socket (#63 bulb). Thru the bulb and leaves on a brown wire to the right bulb socket (#63 bulb). #63 bulbs are 7 volt dc bulbs. Then it leaves the right socket on an orange wire back to the resistor board. Connected to the orange wire on the resistor board is 2 resistors, the first is a 330 ohm resistor and it connects to 2 black wires which are connected to ground. This allows power to flow thru both bulbs and the 330 ohm resistor to ground which will warm the filaments so they light brighter and quicker. The second resistor is a 10 ohm resistor. The other side of this resistor has a blue /black wire connected to it. The blue/black wire goes to the cpu to turn on and off the bulbs. So when the cpu grounds the blue/black wire power will now flow thru both bulbs and thru the 10 ohm resistor and then to ground. Since there is less resistance the bulbs will light fully now.
Thanks, that was exactly what I was looking for. I'm getting closer to 27VDC, but it's close enough. I SWEAR I swapped out the right flasher when I was cleaning the plastics, but maybe it burned out or was never good to begin with. I was confused as to why I wasn't getting any voltage on the resistor board and I wasn't getting voltage on the orange side of the right bulb. I swapped out the bulb and it's working great now!
Quoted from PiLgRiM:I swapped out the bulb and it's working great now!
If you change both bulbs to #89 bulbs they will last for many years but be a tiny bit dimmer.
Quoted from FireGamer3:That happens to mine as well but I’m pretty sure it’s due to a bad playfield. Depending on playfield conditions things can get airborne. Sometimes my ball will go to the right hideout as well without even hitting it up the ramp
Oh is that the problem? Guess I'll just go replace my whole playfield. lol j/k Seriously though, has anyone come up with a decent looking shield/deflector/something to prevent this? If not, I guess I'll have to get creative.
Friend just dropped one off for me to shop...couple questions.
1) Is there an aftermarket light for the top? I have the dome just no light.
2) I need to drill out the head lock. Have done this 5-6 times on other pins. Sometimes it takes 5 min other times alot longer. Any tips drilling out HS?
3) Going to LEd the GI? What seems popular? greens? warm white?
thx for any input.
Quoted from billsfanmd:3) Going to LEd the GI? What seems popular? greens? warm white?
That's personal taste, I guess ... I feel Natural White for GI is best. For the insert lights, I use Natural White for white inserts, Warm White for yellow & orange inserts, Red for red inserts, and Green for green inserts.
Quoted from billsfanmd:Friend just dropped one off for me to shop...couple questions.
1) Is there an aftermarket light for the top? I have the dome just no light.thx for any input.
Tiltedpinball.com has a complete beacon assembly for 100 bucks.
Quoted from Sinistarrett:Tiltedpinball.com has a complete beacon assembly for 100 bucks.
thx
My plunger has the strongest spring I have ever seen and is obviously no the correct one. Almost impossible to pull all the way. Correct spring color? Just found that on Marco they recommend the red spring.
Flippers also both stick in the up position. Game a had a tough prior life. There are good springs so its either binding with the coil stops or the flipper bat is too tight against the pf.
Quoted from billsfanmd:My plunger has the strongest spring I have ever seen and is obviously no the correct one. Almost impossible to pull all the way. Correct spring color? Just found that on Marco they recommend the red spring.
Flippers also both stick in the up position. Game a had a tough prior life. There are good springs so its either binding with the coil stops or the flipper bat is too tight against the pf.
Mine is red. You will most likely have to make the lane adjustments and bend the bracket at the end of the shooter lane. Ball should make it up the ramp every time.
Quoted from billsfanmd:Almost impossible to pull all the way
Someone may have added washers on the plunger shaft to increase spring tension, and now the spring goes into coil bind. Remove them if not needed and install a new spring.
Quoted from rwarren28806:Mine is red. You will most likely have to make the lane adjustments and bend the bracket at the end of the shooter lane. Ball should make it up the ramp every time.
thx guys.
ok. getting closer to finishing this game up. one last big issue is very loud hum from speaker while in attract mode. the sound pulses with insert lights
any ideas what to check ?
Quoted from cmack750:Was hoping someone might have insight into where the appropriate coil sleeves go in this machine....
I bought a High Speed Coil Sleeve Kit from Marco and the kit came with the following:
Eight 03-7066 (1/2 x 1 3/4 inch)
Two 03-7067-5 (2 1/16 inch flanged 3/16 inch)
Six 03-7066-5 (1/2 x 2 3/16 inch)
There are exactly 16 coils w/ sleeves, so all should be used.
The flanged ones are self explanatory (knocker and kickback), and 3 of the 03-7066-5's will be for the flippers..... But all the other coils are the same size. So, I'm at a loss as the where the other three 03-7066-5 (longer) coil sleeves should go. Anyone know? The manual does not have any information about the sleeves that I can find.
I’m doing a of swap. I had the same issue with this “kit”. Marco only responded when I called them on the phone. The kit has 3 too many flipper length sleeves and 3 too little shorter sleeves. They ended up sending me replacements for free. Too bad they were the wrong size!!!
Quoted from Andy_B:Just joined.
Itching to get started....
[quoted image]
Double-triple-check all the fuses! Just sayin'...
I rebuilt the high voltage section because the game was freezing. Now it is booting fine at times and other times is goofy. When it boots fine it will start with zero credits, cool. If I put in a coin it will go to the return slot. More on that later. If I manually click the switch twice to add a credit it will add 55 credits! If I press start it will start a game, but none of the inserts will light, and it won't kick out a ball. I'm assuming there is a setup like classic Bally games where you need coil voltage for it to accept a coin. The only voltage (aside from the flippers) is 12VDC which is what is getting to the 5V and allowing the game to boot. The sound is working too. Fuses are all good, but voltage(s) are just not there. I'm trying to work my way backwards to see where things stop but am struggling. If anyone has suggestions I'll take them.
The frustrating part is this game worked fine at home after I put it back together, about 100 plays. I bring it to my location and then it starts locking up and blew F4(?), the 2.5A giving non-flipper coils their voltage. Rebuilt the power supply and it boots, but now coils don't work. Can't wait to find out what else was taken out when the fuse blew...
One more thing is normally it is booting with a "0" on the MPU, so all is good (so it thinks) and one time it booted with an "8". This is what pinwiki says about that: An eight displayed during memory chip test (using the CPU board switch SW2) indicates that the blanking circuit is functioning properly. I did not press the switch, but since it happened the first time I powered it on in 2-3 weeks, maybe it was just shaking off the cobwebs.
Quoted from desertT1:If I press start it will start a game, but none of the inserts will light, and it won't kick out a ball.
Do you have 3J4 or 3J2 on the power supply connected?
Quoted from GRUMPY:Do you have 3J4 or 3J2 on the power supply connected?
Ah ha! 3J4 was not plugged in, that solved the insert issue, and likely other things as well. Now it will start a game, play the lights and sounds, flippers and most other coils work, but still issues.
First, everything but the trough kickout worked and at some point the inserts went out as did the display. Switches stopped working and the game has basically crashed aside from the GI still being on.
Power cycled it and it boots fine, and the kickout even worked. Nice. Plunge a ball, play for a little while. It goes out the left outlane and it crashes again. I don't know if it was the switch or the game trying to fire the coil, but I hit other switches and slings and it seemed fine. So a little progress, and seemingly almost there.
I just walked over to it and the sound is still playing as well. Not sure if that helps at all, but it's a thing.
I would cut off the diode from the left outlane kickback coil, then check the coils resistance. It should read @ 5 ohms. If it is lower, replace it. If it is good then install a new diode 1n4007 with the silver line facing the purple/yellow wire. Then retest.
Running switch test can anyone verify that the sling switches register in switch test mode? All my switches register in test mode except the left and right sling switches....the left switch triggers the kicker so I know its working. Im trying to see if my right side switch is bad as the kicker is not firing. Then Ill know its the Q71 circuit on driver board.
I’m doing a restore with pf swap. At the point where I’m putting it all back in. Need info on led bulbs. Do the inserts ghost with normal LEDs? I need to know if I need to order new bulbs.
Please help!?!?
Quoted from billsfanmd:Running switch test can anyone verify that the sling switches register in switch test mode? All my switches register in test mode except the left and right sling switches....the left switch triggers the kicker so I know its working. Im trying to see if my right side switch is bad as the kicker is not firing. Then Ill know its the Q71 circuit on driver board.
The slings do register as left Kicker (49) and Roght Kicker (50)
Quoted from FireGamer3:The slings do register as left Kicker (49) and Roght Kicker (50)
weird. mine do not register. The left sling activates the kicker so kind of odd. Need to see if my column/row has a wire off
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