Pretty sure they are 8-32 and are 1/2" in length.

Was hoping someone might have insight into where the appropriate coil sleeves go in this machine....

I bought a High Speed Coil Sleeve Kit from Marco and the kit came with the following:

Eight 03-7066 (1/2 x 1 3/4 inch)
Two 03-7067-5 (2 1/16 inch flanged 3/16 inch)
Six 03-7066-5 (1/2 x 2 3/16 inch)

There are exactly 16 coils w/ sleeves, so all should be used.

The flanged ones are self explanatory (knocker and kickback), and 3 of the 03-7066-5's will be for the flippers..... But all the other coils are the same size. So, I'm at a loss as the where the other three 03-7066-5 (longer) coil sleeves should go. Anyone know? The manual does not have any information about the sleeves that I can find.

Hello everyone. I recently picked up a High Speed in pretty rough shape. Game plays but I'm having display issues of course. This is my first sys 11.

At first some displays worked about half the time, then all stopped working. I noticed the F1 display fuse was blown. Looking over the master display I saw a blown chip, but I also noticed my board doesn't match any other board I've seen. The main board is the same but in U12, U13, U14 and U9, instead of 7180s there are 7183s on a daughter board of sorts surrounded by (8) MPSA92s... The blown chip is one of these 7183s. Now I know 7180 and 7183 have different power capabilities, but if I replace the blown 7183 with a 7180, do I need to put it/should I put it on the daughter board or just mount the 7180 directly to the MDB U12 etc spot without the daughterboard/a92s? Would there be any bad implications to having one 7180 and three 7183 working together in this way?

Also, what should I look for that caused the damage on that chip? I'm guessing the chip blowing blew the fuse but not sure what would cause the chip to blow.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

U9WSYS11MDD (resized).jpg

I know there is one coil per hideout 3 for pops and one for the ramp diverter one for the saucer and one for ball drain and one for ball eject. I can look again at my game tonight

Everyone is having fun playing High Speed and I'm just sitting here waiting for the Hardtop announcement.

Thanks. I know where each coil is, just need to know which 3 coils should have 2 3/16 inch sleeves (aside from the flippers).

Reached out to Marco, but they haven't gotten back to me so I'm guessing they may not even know......

Yea Sorry, I re-read what you posted and realized that my post wouldn't help much. Sadly I am not sure about which coils will need those.

I am in the same boat as you. except mine is at least playable. but it is in horrid condition. when I get Total Nuclear Annihilation I'll start working on restoring my High Speed. (I don't want to be left with no game to play )

hs1 (resized).jpg

hs2 (resized).jpg

I will try to get an update on the prototype s ETA

Mostly said in jest, but I would appreciate an updated ETA. Jonesing really hard since the teaser.

So now I am having an issue with both hideout kickers fireing when I boot the game on. See the video. Is this a switch matrix issue?

I would check the switches the game might think there is a ball there

Example here

No balls and the switches themselves are not activated.

Ah, then I guess it would be the matrix. But don’t take my advice as HS is my first machine so I’m still somewhat new to the repair and restoration of pinball machines

gotcha! thanks for jumping in regardless!

I guess I didn’t know about this. At this point I think I want a Hardtop still as it’s more appropriate for my game. If I got a $1k playfield that would be more than I paid for the game and would probably force me to make a new cab, stencil it, and replace everything visible with new parts. Not what I want to do on a game going on route.

377FB595-30D3-4A6F-AFCB-DF9FD422CA97 (resized).jpeg

I had same issue with a jokerz sys 11. It was the 7408 chips that drive the coils. They had blown, but the tip102s had not, so gameplay worked. If I did a coil test, fuse would blow because signal was coming from mpu instead of from Playfield.

Hadn't seen that either. I think I'm also in for a Hardtop, not playfield swap.
I just don't want to put that much more into it.
I'm aiming for very nice player, not collector quality. Even though I'm a collector.

This is the pin that got me into pinball, and I finally have one in my basement. It's going to take more than spit and polish to get this one back to its former glory, but it'll be worth it!

20180717_195012 (resized).jpg

20180717_195115 (resized).jpg

20180717_195254 (resized).jpg

20180717_195401 (resized).jpg

Welcome to the club

Hey guys. Just got my High Speed today. My first pin and I'm thrilled. It's a players machine for sure, but it's working properly and a ton of fun. Only problem is the volume is loud as hell and I can't figure out how to lower it. Any help would be appreciated.

The knob in the center on the left side of the cabinet is the volume knob. (And yes a previous owner of my machine had removed the tilt bob)
image (resized).jpg

Yes!!! Thank you so much, that did it. I still have the tilt bob too haha. I love this game!

Good! Welcome to the club

That previous owner sure didn't like to tilt.... Looks like they stripped out the ball roll tilt too!

Thank you. It's amazing to finally have a pin and it ends up being a High Speed which I've always loved. Feel very lucky today. I keep looking at it and shaking my head that I actually have this thing in my home. Never thought I'd ever own a real pinball machine.

Ha I felt the same way when I got mine a few months ago. Watch out this one machine may have a chance of multiplying! Ha ha

I keep hearing that. The size of this beast makes me think I'll never be able to but I know it happens all the time for people. The wife is really supportive about one, but may change her tune if I start talking about two haha.

Help me out, I've never seen a ball roll tilt before. How does it work? What is the point of two tilt mechs (ball roll and tilt bob)?

There are actually quite a few tilt switches/devices. High speed has at least 4 that I know of.....

1. The plumb bob tilt. Pretty much every game has this. Meant to discourage people from being too aggressive shaking/nudging the machine.
2. Ball roll tilt. See first pic. Discourages people from lifting the front legs off the ground for any reason. When this happens, gravity makes the ball roll to the back of the channel, which touches/closes a switch that tilts the machine. I think Williams did away with this when they transitioned to WPC. All the system 3-11 games have them, I believe..... Not sure about before that.
3. Glass/top slam tilt. See second pic. Discourages people from dropping/slamming the machine. On high speed, mounted next to the left flipper coil. In later generation machines, this was moved to the bottom of the cab.
4. Coin door slam tilt. Mounted on coin door. See the third pic. This one is primarily there to prevent people from slamming the coin door in an attempt to get free credits or tripping a coin rollover switch.

IMG_20180724_140557603 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180724_140649859 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180724_140722494 (resized).jpg

I knew about 2 of the 4, thanks.

Can someone here lift their playfield and post a picture of the wiring running to and between the 2 switches in the left Hideout? One switch is under the playfield and the other should be topside, but I just need to see the wires running into the through-hole for that one. I'm having some trouble with one of my switches there and the wiring appears to have been hacked. Thanks.

Hope this helps

IMG_7390 (resized).JPG

IMG_7531 (resized).JPG

Thanks. Main problem I was having was that when a ball went into the left Hideout, there would be a longer than normal delay (probably 6-7 seconds) and then the ball would eject from the Hideout like normal, but without the left flashers alerting you that it was coming. After looking at these pics, it looks like a previous owner/op had simply run out of wire in the harness and had spliced in different colored wire around these switches. I cut out their wiring and splices and redressed the harness to get the lengths I needed and ended up replacing the lower left Hideout switch with a NOS one I was able to get from PBR. After doing that and resoldering it all back up, everything now works exactly as it should... Ball immediately registers that it is in the Hideout, flashers start doing their thing, and then the ball ejects a couple seconds later. I think I had a combo bad wiring and flaky switch (even though the switch did register correctly in switch test).

Great job, glad to hear it's working!

First pin I bought. It started my addiction to pinball. One of the greatest games ever made!

I have some board issues (alkaline damage) and the left and right hideouts aren't kicking out. I kinda pushed it to the side but would love to see it working again. Main boards seem impossible to find. Anyone have one sitting around?

I'm part of the club now! Picked up my game this weekend. Boots up but pops and flashers not working yet. Dirty so just breaking it down part by part and cleaning. Took ramp off tonight to clean and replace rubbers back there. Crack in ramp so will repair that. Plan to rebuild all flippers and pops. Oh the match balls left display is dead so far too. So excited to get it going but want to repair and clean so its good to play!

20180817_183346_Film1 (resized).jpg

20180818_110732_Film1 (resized).jpg

Hello, I am going to be traveling up to Chicago soon, and will be checking out a Getaway High Speed II that is for sale near there. I am a relative pinball novice, but have learned that each machine has certain things that are prone to wear/failure, etc... that are important to check out when considering a machine.

For example, on Wizard of Oz, the light boards were a big problem, and it is best to have a machine with the latest boards where the problem has been rectified.

I understand on Judge Dredd, that the swing arm is a problem, and on Twilight Zone the clock is problematic, and there are fixes for those that would be good to have.

My question for you guys is what are the things I need to make sure and check out or ask about when it comes to Highspeed II?

Thank you in advance!

Getaway has a club, you might find some good info in that thread

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin

Ball will not consistently rest making contact with shooter tip when ejected into shooter lane(50%). Ball will not make it up ramp when this happens. When ball is ejected and it makes contact with tip ramp is no problem. Angle of game is at 6.5, replaced barrel and shooter spring. What should I check next?

image (resized).jpeg

Only pin in my arsenal right now but will always be my favorite! Planning to hook up an external traffic light to mine in the future.

The shooter lane switch needs to be adjusted down, the tension from that wire is keeping the ball from rolling down.

I will try that tonight, thanks for help

If you have ruled out mechanical blockage, is it possible that the metal on the side is magnetized enough to "sometimes" hold the ball?

My second of two High Speeds is on location. The first one has a terrible playfield that will need a hardtop before it goes out as well. The second one came to me a few weeks ago with the topside mostly torn apart. I was delighted to find that nothing was missing once I was out of parts to put back on.

The High Speed that I recently put on route is locking up at least 10-20% of the games that get played on it. I played quite a lot before it went out and never locked up on me. The sounds are quite interesting though. Everything is very drawing out.
The first thing I found online was that a coil diode was likely bad, but wouldn’t that lock it up every game that it is fired? We saw no pattern and I went into coil test mode and had them cycle through several times without it locking up.

Also, came in today and it wouldn’t take a coin. Clicked on a credit, hit start, and music but no kick out. I’m wondering if it froze with a coil on and blew the coil fuse. Didn’t have time to check today.

Have you checked the output of the power supply?

The 32 volt F-2 fuse is burnt, this fuse powers the coin lockout coils and some play field coils.

I did not, but I would bet the power supply caps are original. I’ll order a kit and can swap parts by the time it gets here.

Can you manually actuate it and see if anything is off? It all looks attached from the picture.