(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.


By lordloss

6 years ago



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There are 3731 posts in this topic. You are on page 42 of 75.
#2051 2 years ago

Thanks

For the relay is that simply a different package, it looks like the 50v relay for the kickback?
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/bch-0332209150

#2052 2 years ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

Well I got my red ramp last week, and installed it today. I’d have to say it looks pretty nice.

where did you get that red ramp?

#2053 2 years ago
Quoted from eh97ac:

For the relay is that simply a different package, it looks like the 50v relay for the kickback?

All 4 relays are the same. They are 12 volt 30 amp.

#2054 2 years ago
Quoted from TwoHeartedMale:

where did you get that red ramp?

freeplay40

#2055 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

All 4 relays are the same. They are 12 volt 30 amp.

Thanks.

#2056 2 years ago

Not a new club member, but my HS project has been in storage for awhile, so more a restored club member. :]

In the process of getting my machine out of storage, the spacer assembly between the backbox and main cabinet was fragmented, and as I do not have access to a table saw (in the process of building a shop), I was forced to restore the spacer from the pieces one bit at a time. Made from plywood, and stapled together, it was in about 6 pieces and many bits.

That having happened it somewhat put a damper on the enthusiasm of working on my machine, so I've been reading the back pages of the club, and looking at replacement displays while the glue dries.

My question for the group is are any of the new LED display sets better than another? PInscore, Xpin and Rottendog are the players I've come up with, but do not seen anything that particularly sets one manufacturer over another. Also, when last I pursued the restoration, one of the companies was offering a set of red and blue displays, to play on the color of the police lights, for HS, and I wondered if that was still available? I could always get white displays and put gels in front of them, making my own red & blue, but why recreate the wheel if I don't need to.

Thanks much,

Ray~

#2057 2 years ago
Quoted from Radius:

Not a new club member, but my HS project has been in storage for awhile, so more a restored club member. :]
In the process of getting my machine out of storage, the spacer assembly between the backbox and main cabinet was fragmented, and as I do not have access to a table saw (in the process of building a shop), I was forced to restore the spacer from the pieces one bit at a time. Made from plywood, and stapled together, it was in about 6 pieces and many bits.
That having happened it somewhat put a damper on the enthusiasm of working on my machine, so I've been reading the back pages of the club, and looking at replacement displays while the glue dries.
My question for the group is are any of the new LED display sets better than another? PInscore, Xpin and Rottendog are the players I've come up with, but do not seen anything that particularly sets one manufacturer over another. Also, when last I pursued the restoration, one of the companies was offering a set of red and blue displays, to play on the color of the police lights, for HS, and I wondered if that was still available? I could always get white displays and put gels in front of them, making my own red & blue, but why recreate the wheel if I don't need to.
Thanks much,
Ray~

I have the red/blue displays, they were made by Xpin (XP-WMS10877). I don’t see them available anymore on the website, just white or orange. My machine is currently disassembled for restoration, but I’ll post a pic if I find one in my files.

#2058 2 years ago
Quoted from Radius:

Not a new club member, but my HS project has been in storage for awhile, so more a restored club member. :]
In the process of getting my machine out of storage, the spacer assembly between the backbox and main cabinet was fragmented, and as I do not have access to a table saw (in the process of building a shop), I was forced to restore the spacer from the pieces one bit at a time. Made from plywood, and stapled together, it was in about 6 pieces and many bits.
That having happened it somewhat put a damper on the enthusiasm of working on my machine, so I've been reading the back pages of the club, and looking at replacement displays while the glue dries.
My question for the group is are any of the new LED display sets better than another? PInscore, Xpin and Rottendog are the players I've come up with, but do not seen anything that particularly sets one manufacturer over another. Also, when last I pursued the restoration, one of the companies was offering a set of red and blue displays, to play on the color of the police lights, for HS, and I wondered if that was still available? I could always get white displays and put gels in front of them, making my own red & blue, but why recreate the wheel if I don't need to.
Thanks much,
Ray~

I used Xpin in my Space Shuttle rebuild, I really like them.

#2059 2 years ago

Kind of dark picture, but gives you an idea of what it looks like.

B8CC29DC-BDAC-4222-A3C6-EBABEB1472C7 (resized).jpeg
#2060 2 years ago

Could someone please post a picture of your knocker wiring configuration? My HS came without a knocker (or bracket -- just three empty holes where the whole assembly would be). I just acquired a new knocker assembly; I found two cut wires in the backbox that I presume must be for the knocker, but I'd like to see how a proper installation is wired up before I got connecting wires willy nilly.

Thanks in advance!

#2061 2 years ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Could someone please post a picture of your knocker wiring configuration? My HS came without a knocker (or bracket -- just three empty holes where the whole assembly would be). I just acquired a new knocker assembly; I found two cut wires in the backbox that I presume must be for the knocker, but I'd like to see how a proper installation is wired up before I got connecting wires willy nilly.
Thanks in advance!

Hope this helps. If you need a different angle, let me know.

B5B4DD51-3620-401B-A3B5-A26F4862DF61 (resized).jpeg

#2062 2 years ago
Quoted from AMBoggs:

Hope this helps. If you need a different angle, let me know.

Thanks, can you show me the diode side so I can be sure there?

#2063 2 years ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Thanks, can you show me the diode side so I can be sure there?

Band towards the red wires

#2064 2 years ago

What Gutz said.

#2065 2 years ago

Do me a favor too -- show me where those red wires come from. I have the brown/purple coming up with bundled with two reds and a gray/yellow. The b/p and one red are cut. The g/y and other red go to a small board on the roof. There's another red coming down from the board which is also cut.

20180626_211520 (resized).jpg
#2066 2 years ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Do me a favor too -- show me where those red wires come from. I have the brown/purple coming up with bundled with two reds and a gray/yellow. The b/p and one red are cut. The g/y and other red go to a small board on the roof. There's another red coming down from the board which is also cut.

The reds are all daisy chained together. Essentially, the two cut ends you are showing are supposed to be on the banded side of the coil, the purple on the other.

Depending on how you look at it, you have a red coming up to the small board, then from there over to the coil, then from the coil back down.

#2067 2 years ago
Quoted from AMBoggs:

The reds are all daisy chained together. Essentially, the two cut ends you are showing are supposed to be on the banded side of the coil, the purple on the other.
Depending on how you look at it, you have a red coming up to the small board, then from there over to the coil, then from the coil back down.

Perfect, thank you! The piece coming down is pretty short so I might have to splice in a new piece, but at least now I know. I'll report back after I've installed it.

#2068 2 years ago

Sweet success!!! Got it wired up without issue; then it took a few iterations to set it up right -- first the coil was oriented 90 degrees off so the backbox door wouldn't close ... then during testing it was knocking very weakly -- turns out the plunger was upside down (nylon tip down instead of up). Once I got all that straightened out, it works perfectly. Ah, the sweetest sound in pinball!

Thanks for the help, everyone!

#2069 2 years ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Ah, the sweetest sound in pinball!

Until you are trying to fix a switch error and your kids are sleeping.

Congrats on getting it installed.

#2070 2 years ago

Thank you Bellagio and AMBoggs for the information and picture of your displays. Will aim for getting a set from Xpin before too long.

#2071 2 years ago

After many moons (near ten years) I've got my HS out and surprisingly functional Recognizes a coin, attract mode works as it should, and in spite of the condition of the rubber, I was able to play a couple balls. Main issue I find is no sound. First tried the potentiometer to no avail, so started looking more around the backbox, which is when I found two open, male, jacks with four contacts each, one on the MPU board and one on the background sound board (circled in the picture), and wondered if this was part/all of my problem?

HS_missing connection (resized).jpg
#2072 2 years ago
Quoted from Radius:

After many moons (near ten years) I've got my HS out and surprisingly functional Recognizes a coin, attract mode works as it should, and in spite of the condition of the rubber, I was able to play a couple balls. Main issue I find is no sound. First tried the potentiometer to no avail, so started looking more around the backbox, which is when I found two open, male, jacks with four contacts each, one on the MPU board and one on the background sound board (circled in the picture), and wondered if this was part/all of my problem?

Here is mine. Right off the bat that speaker wire with the ground is in the wrong spot.

20E24958-2F29-4883-900B-39A4326A1E7F (resized).jpeg

#2073 2 years ago

hey all, finally picked up my dream game about a month ago. it was in rough shape, supposedly head had fell off and ripped some wires. came with another populated playfield that is actually really nice, so currently putting all the pieces together to make a solid game.
anyway, was curious if anyone had scans of the playfield insert decals.
thanks

#2074 2 years ago

Thank you AMBoggs- your picture did the trick and I was able to figure out what went where. Now have sound, and a more complete nostalgia rush. Largest issue that remains are displays, which I have placed an order from Xpin for.

Ray~

#2075 2 years ago

Double post.

#2076 2 years ago
Quoted from BarryMulvihill:

hey all, finally picked up my dream game about a month ago. it was in rough shape, supposedly head had fell off and ripped some wires. came with another populated playfield that is actually really nice, so currently putting all the pieces together to make a solid game.
anyway, was curious if anyone had scans of the playfield insert decals.
thanks

How bad is the playfield? A hardtop is in the near future.

#2077 2 years ago

amboggs the second Playfield I got is actually really really nice. It looks as if someone removed the factory mylar and them didn't use it. The decals have mostly flaked off tho, so I plan on small touchup, wetslide decals, and then clear. Should look mint afterwards. That's why I'm searching for scans of the decals.
For me, restoring/reparing is 3/4 of the fun, so a hardtop is just a shortcut to the finish line lol

#2078 2 years ago

Classic Arcades sells all of the insert art on one sheet

#2079 2 years ago
Quoted from AMBoggs:

How bad is the playfield? A hardtop is in the near future.

Very near

#2080 2 years ago

I likely cursed myself and angered the gods, as though I was playing and working on my machine last night with no problems, this morning I turned it on and got some general lighting and five chimes, no motion in the lights, no sound, just the chimes and silence.

I didn't locate anything regarding the meaning of the five chimes- can someone fill me in on what that may be telling me?

Thanks,

Ray~

#2081 2 years ago

Have also removed, checked, and replaced the fuses.

R~

#2082 2 years ago
Quoted from Radius:

I likely cursed myself and angered the gods, as though I was playing and working on my machine last night with no problems, this morning I turned it on and got some general lighting and five chimes, no motion in the lights, no sound, just the chimes and silence.
I didn't locate anything regarding the meaning of the five chimes- can someone fill me in on what that may be telling me?
Thanks,
Ray~

Might be a rom issue.

Look through here:

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index2.htm#sndled

#2083 2 years ago

Thanks AMBoggs.

I didn't find any reference to five chimes at startup, however when I was getting a zaro on the MPU, after (I presume) the startup tests, and chimes, I pushed (SW2) to perform a memory chip test, on a whim- this put the machine into attract mode, accepting credits and playing. On further exploration this works on the first or second memory chip test when the coin door is open, but with the coin door closed, the memory chip test returns a 5 on the seven segment display, and does not go into attract, accept credit, etc. Per the link, a 5 indicates: "Blanking signal "stuck". Could be coin door is closed and memory protection circuit faulty, or U25 RAM bad." How do I diagnose one or the other?

Thanks again.

Ray~

#2084 2 years ago

That is getting out of my wheelhouse.

Hopefully someone else can chime in.

#2085 2 years ago
Quoted from Radius:I didn't find any reference to five chimes at startup

Power-on Tone(s).
When the system 11 games boots, it produces power-on tone(s). Here is the breakdown of the tone(s):

No Sound: sound/speech board is not operating, or a failure is affecting the sound circuitry (broken or disconnected cable, dead amplifier, bad speaker).
One Tone: sound/speech system OK.
Two Tones: sound/speech RAM problem.
Three Tones: U4 problem.
Four Tones: U19 problem.
CPU Sound Diagnostic Switch SW1.
On the left side of the CPU board there are two switches. The top switch SW1 is the sound diagnostic switch. If you press this button, you should get two test sounds. This shows that the CVSD (Continuously Variable Slope Delta) modulator, which produces the game's voices, and the DAC (Digital to Analog Converter) sound circuits are working.

After pressing CPU switch SW1 you should get some tones. Here is the breakdown:

No Sound: sound/speech board is not operating, or a failure is affecting the sound circuitry (broken or disconnected cable, dead amplifier, bad speaker).
One Tone: U23 RAM chip error.
Two Tones: U21 ROM chip error.
Three Tones: U22 ROM chip error.
Four Tones: U21 ROM chip error.
Five Tones: U22 ROM chip error.

#2086 2 years ago

Thank you Grumpy, I had read that at the link that AMBoggs suggested, but I'm uncertain how to proceed.

On further experimenting, there are two different sounds at startup; first the 5 chimes start and while they are playing, there is a single ping. This is the same ping that can be heard when opening and closing the coin door when the game is in attract mode. I'm thinking the ping is the one tone that indicates the sound and speech hardware is OK. This is fine, but does not explain the 5 chimes that I also hear.

Would it help if I took video of the startup and posted it, so that maybe someone will recognize the chimes?

Ray~

#2087 2 years ago
Quoted from Radius:

maybe someone will recognize the chimes?

Is it chimes or is it 5 knocks from the knocker?

#2088 2 years ago

Grumpy,

Five chimes- not the knocker.

Thanks,
Ray~

#2089 2 years ago

Here is 13 seconds of video with the startup sounds, as well as how it doesn't go into attract mode until I push SW2 for the memory test. The coin door is open for the memory test to work.

Ray~

#2090 2 years ago

When you turn it on can you get the game into attract mode by pressing the coin door buttons?

That sound is what you'll hear when your batteries are dead/missing, along with the displays saying ADJUST FAILURE

#2091 2 years ago

Thank you frisbez! Takes one thing off the list knowing what those sounds indicate. I currently don't have batteries in the machine, and have not taken the holder off the mpu or done a memory mod.

Unfortunately I just put in Xpin displays, which I'm having problems getting players 1 and 2 to display more than garbage, so do not see the adjust failure message.

I am unable to get the machine into attract via the coin door buttons.

Thanks again,

Ray~

#2092 2 years ago
Quoted from Radius:

Thank you frisbez! Takes one thing off the list knowing what those sounds indicate. I currently don't have batteries in the machine, and have not taken the holder off the mpu or done a memory mod.
Unfortunately I just put in Xpin displays, which I'm having problems getting players 1 and 2 to display more than garbage, so do not see the adjust failure message.
I am unable to get the machine into attract via the coin door buttons.
Thanks again,
Ray~

You have to step through the adjustments and it should go into attract mode after you get through the end, but without batteries, you would have to do this each time.

Throw some batteries in and see if that helps.

The garbled display could be a bad cable. You can try reseating that flat cable or cleaning the contacts. Worst case though is that you have alkaline damage that is messing with the displays.

#2093 2 years ago

^ what Frisbez said. The moment I heard it I knew it was ADJUST FAILURE. I recommend you put batteries in so if we can get you past the warning, you won't have to do this every time. Without your displays working, though, it'll be tougher to do since we won't know where you're at. See if this sequence of button pushes will get you past it:
- (with middle button up) Push Advance once. (This should drop you into the game ID)
- Push middle button down.
- Push Advance again. (This should step "back" to the last adjustment # 70.)
- Push middle button again (bringing it back up)
- Push Advance again. (This should step "forward" past the last adjustment # 70, exiting the menu and going into attract mode.

Let us know if that works, otherwise someone will have to intentionally cause an Adjust Failure to see what the proper sequence should be. Pretty certain this should work though.

#2094 2 years ago
Quoted from Radius:

Here is 13 seconds of video with the startup sounds, as well as how it doesn't go into attract mode until I push SW2 for the memory test. The coin door is open for the memory test to work.

Ray~

Yea that short small beep on power on and when you hit SW2 is what you have to worry about. One time my game started with that beep and no music. But it still had sounds. For me some reason resetting the game actually fixed it. Looks like this is not the case with yours

#2095 2 years ago

Thank you all for your help.

I put the batteries in, after checking as much as possible for previous leak damage (didn't find any- appears clean and pure), but still get the adjust failure chimes and don't enter attract mode. Even took some fine sandpaper lightly across the contacts in the battery holder, but still don't get them recognized as being there.

SkyKings sequence with the coin door buttons worked to get it in to attract mode, but of course, it won't hold if it doesn't recognize the batteries.

Took the two new cables sent by Xpin with my displays, and routed player 1 & 2 to the player 3 & 4 displays, which results in the same garbage on the two lower displays. So, perhaps the cable from the display board to the mpu is bad, or..? I've got a trouble ticket into 21-electronics, and am waiting to hear back.

Thanks again for all the help,

Ray~

#2096 2 years ago

The battery holder is fickle. Sometimes you have to adjust the tabs so that there is more pressure against the cells.

Display issue definitely sounds like a bad cable.

#2097 2 years ago

Kickback question. I'm working on restoring a Getaway, having already fully restored my High Speed, and in the Getaway manual I see that the kickback is supposed to kick the ball into the eject hole. Made me wonder about the kickback for High Speed. Mine has enough power to get into the upper right loop area and fall down onto the upper-right flipper.

Is that correct, or is it supposed to get into the eject hole on High Speed and I need to adjust it somehow?

#2098 2 years ago
Quoted from jeffr:

Kickback question. I'm working on restoring a Getaway, having already fully restored my High Speed, and in the Getaway manual I see that the kickback is supposed to kick the ball into the eject hole. Made me wonder about the kickback for High Speed. Mine has enough power to get into the upper right loop area and fall down onto the upper-right flipper.
Is that correct, or is it supposed to get into the eject hole on High Speed and I need to adjust it somehow?

No...it will not go into the eject hole. What yours is doing is normal.

#2099 2 years ago

Cool. Thanks.

#2100 2 years ago

Hi All,

Can some one please help me and tell me what size the Pan head screws with locking washers are the hold all the boards to the metal back plate (MPU Power Sound) in the back box are, as here in Europe we use metric so I can't use anything to see what thread they are to order them as most are missing.

Thank you for any help

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