(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.


By lordloss

6 years ago



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  • 3,613 posts
  • 334 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 hours ago by Pin-Pilot
  • Topic is favorited by 161 Pinsiders

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There are 3613 posts in this topic. You are on page 41 of 73.
#2001 2 years ago

That's ok BallyPinWiz, thanks for letting us know.

Looking at XPin displays not a bad price as comes with all the display units and the driver for them.

#2002 2 years ago
Quoted from LGFAutos:

That's ok BallyPinWiz, thanks for letting us know.
Looking at XPin displays not a bad price as comes with all the display units and the driver for them.

I'm running the xpin displays and am very happy with them... They make quality products. Power supplies are really nice.

#2003 2 years ago

Hi,

Ok just been working with the all the flippers and noticed that the coils are different on the bottom 2, 1 is a FL-11629 which has been put in the wrong way and look at the dodgy wiring (this was done by a pinball shop in France). The other is a 04-0718. Are they the same just different manufacturers? (see pics)

Also Can I just replace all 3, the bottom 2 with FL-11629 coils and then I can use 2.2uf capacitors and the top flipper can I use a FL-11630 coil and use a 2.2uf capacitor on that one to.

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#2004 2 years ago

Your 23-620/ 30-2600 is a data east flipper coil.
FL 11629 is a Williams solid state power house flipper coil that was made for later game designs.
OEM are FL23-600/30-2600 in series wound not parallel.
Add service upgrade of mounting flippers coils backwards in order to keep the diodes from breaking...
Or remount diode with a heavy duty one and leave the coil in original position.

#2005 2 years ago

All 3 coils were FL-23/600 -30/2600 series wound originally. I would suggest either going with them, or 11630 parallel coils. The tough part about using the parallel coils on these mechs, is the lack of a long switch mounting bracket. That gives you a place to mount the big yellow cap and to drill for an extension spring. There are probably other ways to do it with the stock mechs, but I had a set of 3 mechs from a PF that I parted out at the time. They were later system 11 mechs and had parallel coils originally. You can see a pic of the 2 lower flippers in post #1987 in Vids flipper thread if you like. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/40

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#2006 2 years ago

Just about got it all done and dialed in.

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Using the clear ramp puts the flashers in the back in you eyesight so I drilled two holes and added flasher domes. Also added a cop car under the ramp. Going to add some lighting so you can see it better.

Here is my upgrade for the spinners too.

Any idea where to put the 3 helicopters from the CPR plastic kit?

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#2007 2 years ago

If you look at the flyer on the IPDB there is a yellow helicopter over the shooter lane.
I do not know where the other 2 go.

#2008 2 years ago

Thanks. I did find that one. Just hope someone knows where the others go.

#2009 2 years ago

It's funny, other than the flyer I have never seen the helicopter. Does anyone know if it was even shipped with the helicopter?

#2010 2 years ago

That looks well cool.

Ok just started on the bottom flippers and come across this thing (see pics) what is it and why is it there, as I can't find it on the wiring for the under side of the pf.

There is no markings on it at all.

It is only wired to the right flipper and they have picked up a power supply from one of the flasher resistor boards.

Any help would be great.

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#2011 2 years ago

Also for got to mention I have unscrewed it from the under side of the pf, as who ever put it there had used to long a wood screws and made a very small bump in the pf. Prats

#2012 2 years ago

And I think they was going to put one on the other flipper as they have run a wire to the left flipper but not connected it.

Which is the 2 red wires on the far left post of this thing.

#2013 2 years ago

That’s definitely not factory, lol! Looking at the wiring, I can’t figure out it’s purpose either. Do the flippers function correctly?

#2014 2 years ago

This wire scares the crap out of me. Cut it out. The inner switch is flipper power eos. The outer is switch matrix. No connetion what so ever.

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#2015 2 years ago

Yes the flipper works ok, but it needs rebuilding as the amount of play in most of the moving parts, I'm surprised it has any power to hit the ball.

It is wired from right to left:

1, earth wire in and earth to EOS switch (normally both of these are mounted on the thin wire tag on the coil.
2, return wire from EOS switch
3, red wire to thin wire lug on coil
4, red to thick wire lug on coil
5, 2 x red wires, one comes from flasher light board off of the black wires that are in the middle of the flasher board (see pics) the other red wire goes to the left flipper coil but not wired in.

I just found a another one of these things, its wired the same way to the top flipper and takes its power from the same wire off of the flasher board, they just used a different colour wire (white/black)

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#2016 2 years ago

Me to Soren,

Thats why I need to find out what these things are and rewire the hole lot properly.

They look like they could be a form of capacitor as they have wired them in line with the earths to the coils, and in line with the EOS switch.

Very strange these French pinball repair people

1 week later
#2017 2 years ago

Hi All,

Does any one have a wiring diagram of the underside of pf, as I can't find anything on this (see pics).

As you can see the resistor (if thats what it is has broken in the middle).

Or what resistor it is?

Any help is appreciated

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#2018 2 years ago

Forgot to mention....

It's wired to the blue relay in the picture which is on the right side just under the hide-out coil

#2019 2 years ago

This is a snubber relay set up. HS uses this on both hide out coils. On F-14 Williams made a circuit board that has all 3 parts mounted on it. I think you need a 180 ohm 2 watt resistor for this, the original is a 1/2 watt and they are a bit undersized.

#2020 2 years ago

If it helps, here is that board on my machine. Mine is on the rotisserie right now while I’m doing the swap, so if anybody needs pics of anything let me know

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#2021 2 years ago

Cheers for that Grumpy,

They have been ordered along with the caps

Sorry Bellagio thats differently wired, but thanks any way

1 week later
#2022 2 years ago

Hey how’s it going? Just wondering if anyone could send me the high speed tournament rom files?
Cheers thx

#2023 2 years ago

Has anyone thought of 3d printing the ramp for high speed? I figure the material would be just as durable as the clear ramps...

#2024 2 years ago
Quoted from trueno92:

Has anyone thought of 3d printing the ramp for high speed? I figure the material would be just as durable as the clear ramps...

I guess only if it were printed thick enough, plus it needs to have rivets on it. It’s not small either, and making the 3D model would be interesting

I think a gray ramp with yellow street lines would be cool

#2025 2 years ago

Hi All,

I am now starting on the power supply (as it looks like the French pin shop shop has been here to) and wanted to know.....Does any one know if there is a documented rebuild/upgrade (i.e better caps/ resistors) for the power supply board (see pics to which one).

Or do I follow the instructions by Vid's guide to bulletproofing Williams system 3-7 for the psb.

Also what board pins and connectors do I need for the bottom right as some one has soldered the wires to the board.

Thank you very much for any help

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#2026 2 years ago

I've found the wiki is often helpful. Changed two Zener diodes from 100V to 91V on all of my games, displays slightly dimmer, cooler, last longer.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7

Quoted from LGFAutos:

Hi All,
I am now starting on the power supply (as it looks like the French pin shop shop has been here to) and wanted to know.....Does any one know if there is a documented rebuild/upgrade (i.e better caps/ resistors) for the power supply board (see pics to which one).
Or do I follow the instructions by Vid's guide to bulletproofing Williams system 3-7 for the psb.
Also what board pins and connectors do I need for the bottom right as some one has soldered the wires to the board.
Thank you very much for any help

#2027 2 years ago

Holy shit, There must be something to this game! a club with 2000+ posts, I'm impressed.
I am attaching a link for all of you HS lovers. I am currently prototyping a "Hardtop" for High Speed. Within 2-3 months anyone with a roached playfield will have the option to make their game POP, shine and play like a MF.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/prototyping-a-hardtop-high-speed

Stop over and share your thoughts.

#2028 2 years ago
Quoted from Skypilot:

Holy shit, There must be something to this game! a club with 2000+ posts, I'm impressed.
I am attaching a link for all of you HS lovers. I am currently prototyping a "Hardtop" for High Speed. Within 2-3 months anyone with a roached playfield will have the option to make their game POP, shine and play like a MF.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/prototyping-a-hardtop-high-speed
Stop over and share your thoughts.

2-3 months is a very encouraging timeline. I was going to start putting mine back together since this seemed to be a very late 2018 release. Now I'll have to hold off to save myself a duplicate effort. I'm a day 1 buyer for this game.

#2029 2 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

2-3 months is a very encouraging timeline. I was going to start putting mine back together since this seemed to be a very late 2018 release. Now I'll have to hold off to save myself a duplicate effort. I'm a day 1 buyer for this game.

I will be timelining the production on the thread.

#2030 2 years ago

I've lost my upper flipper, and I'm wondering where to look next to get it working again. Quick background, I rebuilt all three flippers when I first got the machine and they flip strong, the gap is good. I rebuilt the power supply and my voltages at test points on the boards are good. I get 70V DC at the lugs, and if I ground the center flipper lug, all three will flip.

Before it stopped working (a while ago, I've been too busy to look into fixing it for a few months), I would occasionally hear a noticeable hum/buzz when holding the top right flipper up (it never happened if I pushed halfway down and only activated the lower right flipper). This didn't happen always, only occasionally; if I let go then hit it again it almost always went away. Today when I started troubleshooting it, I couldn't flip any of the flippers in test mode, but after playing around a bit in the test mode checking different things and resetting the machine, I can flip the two lower flippers again in test mode, but not the top one (as I said above, it's getting voltage and I can manually fire it). Everything else seems to be working properly except for the right slingshot in test mode (it worked fine in gameplay, but doesn't fire in test mode).

Looking at http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index2.htm#flip0 , it seems like this section is the most pertinent:

The CPU board flipper relay K1 is not engaging. If the relay that turns the ground on to the flippers (when a game starts) has failed, the flippers will never work. Replace this relay or examine the logic that controls this relay. This is a 4P, 40 ohm, 6 volt relay. It connects through transistor Q67 (2N4401) and a 7402 at U50 and a 7406 at U56, and ultimately the 6821 PIA at U10. If any of these components are bad, the relay may not activate the flippers. First test transistor Q67, as this fails the most often.

Am I on the right track in looking here or is there something else I should be looking into?

#2031 2 years ago
Quoted from FMonk:

I can flip the two lower flippers again in test mode, but not the top one

Then its not the relay because if the lower right flipper works going thru the relay then the upper right should work also as its the same wire. I would put a jumper wire on the EOS switch and then see if it works then but do not cradle with a jumper installed as it will over heat the coil and burn the fuse. I would bet you have a couple issues going on at the same time.

Quoted from FMonk:if I ground the center flipper lug, all three will flip.

Next time you do this do not just ground the middle lug as this bypasses the EOS switch and just checks for power and if the high power coil broken. If you ground the 3 lug (not the power lug) the power has to flow thru the EOS switch and the coil, listen to the sound the flipper makes when you ground the middle lug and then ground the 3 lug and listen for the same sound or does it sound weaker. If it sounds weaker then you need to clean or adjust the EOS switch or both.

#2032 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Then its not the relay because if the lower right flipper works going thru the relay then the upper right should work also as its the same wire.

Yeah, that makes sense, but when I first fired it up today none of the flippers worked. Later, I heard the relay click and I was able to use the lower two in test mode.

I'll try jumpering through the EOS path and see what happens.

#2033 2 years ago
Quoted from FMonk:

but when I first fired it up today none of the flippers worked

This is why I think you have a couple of issues. The relay is one and the upper flipper EOS switch is the second. Since you just rebuilt the flippers I would bet you need to adjust the closed pressure on the EOS switch, if the contacts are just touching they will burn the mating surface and then stop working due to high resistance.

#2034 2 years ago

Ha! Ok, so grounding the lug that runs through the EOS worked exactly the same. I spent a lot of time adjusting the gap when I rebuilt the flippers, since I had read Vid's guide, and seen so many other people having issues with the EOS switch gap, so I was doubting myself. Then I thought 'hey, the cabinet flipper buttons also control the flippers, maybe I should look at those'. The second switch in the stack that controls the right flippers just needed to be spaced better, it wasn't making good enough contact! I tweaked it a bit and got the upper flipper to flutter a bit, then I went back in and worked on the gaps for both cabinet buttons, and now all three flippers are flipping strong again!

I'm also planning on cleaning the cabinet button contacts because I never thought to mess with them when I first got the game. For these particular contacts a fine metal file is appropriate, correct?

In regards to the relay issue, I'm not sure where the next step would be since it seems to be intermittent? I've already looked closely and don't see any obvious physical signs of damage on the components involved, and I didn't see any issues on the solder side when I last had the boards out.

#2035 2 years ago
Quoted from FMonk:

For these particular contacts a fine metal file is appropriate, correct?

Yes.

Quoted from FMonk:

In regards to the relay issue, I'm not sure where the next step would be since it seems to be intermittent?

Finish the switches and wait for it to return, then have another look.

#2036 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Finish the switches and wait for it to return, then have another look.

That was what I was thinking, my other option would be to shotgun the boards for potential issues and that isn't ideal. Thanks for all the troubleshooting help, you've got me through a couple of jams now!

#2037 2 years ago

Hi all, I have a high speed that is in diecent shape and plays pretty well except for a coupe issues. The display that shows ball in play doesn’t work and some of the inserts don’t light up. I noticed a spot on the board that looks fried and am wondering it it’s something that can be fixed, or is it a lost cause. Posting a few pics of it. Any help or advise is greatly appreciated.

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#2038 2 years ago

That is for the right pop bumper, does it work now? If it does work, then I would leave it alone.

#2039 2 years ago

Yeah all the pop bumpers work fine. Thank you for the response! I will take you suggestion.

2 weeks later
#2040 2 years ago

I picked up a HS this weekend that needs a little love. Does anyone have a plastic set (hopefully a new set) that they are willing to sell?

1 week later
#2041 1 year ago

Would someone kindly be able to take a close up of connector IJ4 please? I am rewiring and want to make sure right wire goes in right spot.

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#2042 1 year ago

Here ya go

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#2043 1 year ago

Perfect! Thanks!

#2044 1 year ago

Woohoo, thrilled to join this club! Acquired a HS recently, had to spend some time & effort resolving a pop bumper coil issue ... now that that's behind me and the game functions 100%, I've moved on to cleaning it up. (Seriously, the plastics look like they've never been cleaned!) I tore it all down last night ... got new rubbers on (that one in the back was a bear, since I initially didn't want to remove the ramp ... but eventually did), polished up the metal parts, and replaced all the PF GI with natural white LEDs. Next are some PF touchups, then wax, flipper rebuild, clean & reinstall the plastics. After that I'll be ready to swap out the under-PF lights, backbox GI, and obtain/install the missing knocker. Such fun work, but I can't wait to be done so I can play!

#2045 1 year ago

I’m currently doing a pf swap and have tons of pics, if you need to see anything just holler!

#2046 1 year ago

High speed club Help !!!

Puting in clear ramp,any pics or suggestions to make it more pleasing to the eye ? Rubbers, flashers, does anyone make a decal for backbox ?

Thanks

#2047 1 year ago

Well I got my red ramp last week, and installed it today. I’d have to say it looks pretty nice.

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#2048 1 year ago

Got my keychain, so now it's official!

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2 weeks later
#2049 1 year ago

The right side kickout relay under the PF is clicking away right after boot up.

1) What is that relay, the markings on mine are gone? DPDT 24v?
2) What does the clicking signify?

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