I don't know if this one shows enough detail to help you or not but it's the best I have from when I shopped mine. Basically the lug is there so you solder the wires that go to the diode to it and screw it down as there's not enough clearance to the diode to be strapped across the back of the switch like normal. A quick look at the manual should show you which color wires go where.

LT Hideout Tdown (resized).jpg

Another shot...Whites go to the screw that has a jumper to the back lug of the switch. Greens go to the center lug.

IMG_0358 (resized).JPG

Fastastic. Thank you! I thought they just went to the center, but there was solder on the other lug too so I wasn't sure.

bobukcat Thank you as well!

Thanks for the help yesterday. I got my game up and running for the first time in a while today! It's acting a little funny... but the hard part is over. I'm hoping re-seating the connectors will help.

It's playing fast! One thing I immediately noticed is the ball is flying over the ramp switches on the new Freeplay ramp. I haven't put the glass on yet, but it might airball into it. Has anyone had to put the clear shield back on? Freeplay40 - the ramp looks great, btw!

This guy was torn down topside, mylar removed, a half-assed touch-up job and clear coated. Not anywhere close to a perfect job, but it's still pretty. I see a lot of amazing restorations on Pinside, but this one was just about fixing the nasty and making it play. Will post some before and after photos later. I rebuilt the flippers, gave two of the pops new switches because they were cracked, put new metal yokes on the pops because they were all broken, also new skirts, put on a new eject shield on the escape hole, the freeplay ramp... cleaned all the coils... that's about it. Also got new displays but haven't put them in yet.

Next is making a new piece in the back and adding some artwork. I might add a lamp under the Escape hole that will light when the "Escape" arrow lights. Maybe add lamps under the Freeway rollovers too. There are some color LEDs in there, but I'm going back to only white as soon as they show up.

Very happy I can play this again. Looking forward to maxing out the bonus and listening to the spinner roll up.

-2 (resized).jpg

did anyone ever print the Ramp Road decal?? I'd really like to have a few

I'd like one as well... I've tried to contact the original creator(Drano) as well as the place(pinball_customs) which was going to make them several times and nothing...just radio silence.

And since they never responded on the Stop Light cover either, Orange_Julius made one for me. Here's the file for those interested

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/9PLOGjjeAeL
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2555371

No I did not. Which plunger spring at you using?

Use the red one.

I have a better version FYI. Both horizontal and vertical options.

SL Mod (resized).jpg

How do we get those again?

Message me and I will email you the .STL file. You have to go to a 3rd party 3D printing house and have it made.

It's the red one, but even a half plunge would make the ramp. I never leveled it so it might be a little shallow. Just had enough time to flip a little bit and then the next day I had to leave town unexpectedly. Will get back to it next week.

You probably need to check the level. Mine pulled back all the way goes all the way around. At 85% gets to the chute on the right.

hi,

i am searching for the decal grafics to renew my Highspeed cabinet. someone has this grafics for me ?

thx Mike

You can get cabinet decals here:

https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/high-speed-pinball-cabinet-decals/

I just picked up a High Speed tonight. All the sounds are working but no music, any ideas? I think it's turned on in the menu

thank you,
but i am from austria and the transport costs are to high

i read about the reproduced clear ramps in this forum. are they still available ?

Yes, I still produce them. Ramps comes pre-drilled with new flap installed. Will require the removal of hardware from the old ramp to attach to the new ramp. This requires riveting. I offer assembly services which requires purchaser to send me the needed hardware which I install on the new ramp. If you are set up for riveting great....but not sure you want to send me your parts from Austria.

Hello,
Finally got my High Speed up and running, had the power supply rebuilt. Everything is working correctly except for the pre-launch engine revving sounds with the right flipper activation. I have checked the end of stroke switches/flipper switches and no change. The game will activate the sounds but the right flipper does not. Any suggestions?
Thanks!

There is a High Speed for $700 about a three hour drive away. Machines does not play, but lights up - typical story.

When the seller sent me a playfield pic, I noticed the traffic light assembly was MISSING from the playfield. I see now they are rarer than hen's teeth, with not one available for sale anywhere in the world, as far as I can tell.

I saw the 3-D file for the traffic light housing, but what about the colored lenses, the bulb mounts, connector, etc? Would I be SOL on trying to put this game right?

MPU board looks corrosion-free in pics. Playfield has only minor wear in a couple of areas. Is this machine worth pursuing? Is $700 too much when they can be bought playing for as low as $1250 (recent Ebay sale).

I will not speak on behalf of the price but I can comment on the stop light stuff. Like you said I have the file for the housing free of charge, the three color lenses are available on typical pinball sites, they are 5/8" diameter faceted I believe. I have not seen the mounting base/sockets before so that might be hard find but if you are electrically inclined it should be easy to make the assembly. It's just 3 sockets with diodes and the switch matrix diagram will tell you the correct wiring. Molex connector is easy to obtain (freeplay 40 has a light extension harness that you can buy and hack). Then take the 3 bulbs and mount in on a small plate (i can make a 3D file of a mounting plate for your if you need down the road).

Thank you for this most helpful plate of information!

I didn't see the lenses being sold anywhere. Do you have a link?

Your concept of a 3D file for the mounting plate is excellent! I would use it for sure.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=390&pg=1

Also, i confirmed that they are 5/8" diameter.

Aha, the colored light inserts are actually playfield inserts, not custom parts. Very good to know.

Who or where is this "freeplay 40" of which you speak? Google results did not lead to anything productive.

https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/freeplay40

Joining the club as of next week. will have two high speeds. they will need some work but looming forward to joining the club.

I'm joining the club soon! A woman from our HR department came up to me and said she has a game for me if I'm willing to get it out of her house. Turns out it is a High Speed. I know in needs some work but I'm not sure to what extent. I'm excited to read up on this thread and learn more about the game.

These are no longer on the site for some reason. Should have jumped on them when I had the chance . Maybe planetary pinball complained about using Williams artwork? (There are no Williams games cabinet decals listed)

It’s stenciled painted art, look for the stencils to repaint the cabinet

http://pinballpimpstencils.com/?page_id=1539

Any leads on replacement beacon/toppers? I know several years ago there were some threads discussing some options. Most of the part suppliers online appear to be out. I'm okay with using something besides a beacon if needed.

The mech/motor or the actual red dome?

It was quite a few years ago when I got my first High Speed. It did not have the light or the mechanism. According to the manual it was a 26 VAC set up which I could not find anywhere. All I could find on line were 24 VDC lights... So I bought a 24 VDC rotating beacon, secured it inside the machine, removed it's red cover and placed a stock Williams cover on the cabinet. Then I simply used a bridge rectifier (like the ones on the power boards) to convert the AC voltage to DC voltage. Has worked perfectly for at least 6 or 7 years.

I saw the dome is back in stock on Marco's site. But I still would need to track down a mech/motor.

I'm also wondering if I could get away with using something like this. ebay.com link: 2Pcs New 22 LED Emergency Strobe Warning Flashing Grill Light Red Blue

It wouldn't be nearly as cool as the beacon, but it would be incredibly cheaper if it would work. Not sure how to test it out though.

Check ebay. There was someone selling new replacement motors. Search Williams high speed pinball.

I saw the motor on ebay, it is still there. But wouldn't you still need the light assembly and the rotating device?

Right here on Pinside

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1027-tilted-pinball/01125-reproduction-high-speed-beacon

Plug and Play!

Thanks for the suggestion on the topper!

One more random question, does anybody know the approximate height of the game when assembled. I have low ceilings where I'm thinking of putting the game and was seeing if I could figure out if it fits before bringing it into that room. Thanks for the help!

I just measured mine, and with the police light topper, it's around 6'8" tall give or take an inch.

Much appreciated!

guys,

i have a brand new cpr topper that goes over the beacon for high speed with protective film on each side, was never installed, sold the machine before i had the time.

$50 usd including shipping (keep in mind it's ship from canada).

if someone wants to have it just shoot me a pm.

thanks, bob.

hscopyrightfullgamex450 (resized).jpg

Sent you a message

pm answered.

*still available.

The EOS switch to be adjusted to have more closing pressure when in the down position.

Quick question hopefully...

Just working on getting my new HS working and having sound issues. Only have the music working. no voice or sound effects.

my question is what sound is contained on the chips on the mpu and which ones are on the sound board itself?

thanks

The talking comes from the CPU board and the background music comes from the sound board. But both sounds and music are mixed on the CPU board and then amplified on the CPU board.

*** Sold ***