I'm looking for cabinet decals just for the backbox sides, does anyone have any to sell?

I've never seen decals for hs, only stencils :/

Anyone have a playfield they would sell? Mine is in terrible shape

I have an NOS Williams High Speed playfield, (NOT a reproduction), for sale if anyone is interested.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/52725

What the story with the banana inserts, proto type, fix....etc?

Honestly, I have no idea what your question means. The playfield is stamped with a date from 1989 so definitely not a prototype. I bought this about 20 years ago to do a playfield swap that I never got around to.

Odd to see the large red plastic inserts on that NOS field. I have the usual large blue inserts (banana shaped) above the playfield flash lamps.

No ill will intended. The large red inserts are typically blue and was wondering if you had a back story on them. I always though 1 red and 1 blue insert would have been better for the game.

Ok I understand the question now. I never noticed but you are correct the flasher inserts are red not blue. I purchased the playfield back in the 90's it's not a reproduction. Looking at the inserts very closely they are unquestionably factory. I attached a close up taken with a flash (glare spot in the pic). I don't know why the flasher inserts are red.

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Playfields are often seconds. I had a High Speed that had the plastic ramp switch slots
-- milled into the bottom playfield. "Only one left take it or leave it". From Williams
-- distributor back during the 1980's.

See post 1700 or 1701 in this thread

Hello all! Just slammed the accelerator and dropped the hammer on a decent HS. So I'm in! The cab is excellent, and so are all the electronics and plastics. The playfield however is shot. I do believe I'll do the overlay one of these days soon.

For now however there is an issue to iron out. The left flipper. The guy I got it from informed me that if you press it a fuse will blow. So I went and got some spares and pressed it. It didn't blow. It didn't flip either. On startup it throws codes 36, 37, 38. I read through and searched out all the relevant threads but didn't find the solution. I'm willing to bet one of you fine gentlemen know. Any ideas?

I've checked for proper wiring, gaps on switches, and power being supplied. The flipper button sparks nicely which dims the lights. Obviously a dead short. But where?

Here's a pic or two. Stoked to finally have this game.

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Welcome to the club! There probably isn't actually a dead short or it would blow the fuse unless someone wired around it, put in too big of a fuse, etc. Have you checked to make sure the flipper will actually move if you manually manipulate it? If that's all good next check your EOS switch and the impedance of the coil to make sure it's not shorted - also check the diode across the flipper coil to make sure it's not shorted as well. The following is a good place to all things System 11 troubleshooting related: http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index2.htm#flip0

Well dang. Nice link pal. Followed the directions and found almost no resistance on the left coil both high and low side. The right side is at 3.3ohms. So there it is! Off to Marco to see what's what. Might as well just rebuild the whole darn things. Thanks!

Reverse the test leads and retest the coil again as you may have been reading the diode. Or the best way is to lift one lead of the diode then test.

Indeed I tried it both ways. Looking at the manual, it appears someone installed the wrong coils altogether. These have two diodes each and are wired differently. They're fine, but I prefer I suppose to get the correct ones. Does anyone happen to have the correct diode size? The manual doesn't list it.

Not sure that any of this has a thing to do with the codes, but it won't hurt.

Use diode 1n4007 for all diodes as they cost the same and are rated higher than the original ones. Those 3 numbers that came up on the displays are switch numbers that are not working or have not been activated in awhile.

Use a heavy lead diode along with hot-glue to seal the diode.
Use any diode but 1N4004, 1N4004 is too delicate of a diode
for the flipper assemblies and has a tendency to break.
There is a service bulletin that has you put each of the flipper coils
on backwards with the diodes and solder lugs facing the front
of the flipper assemblies rather than the solder lugs facing the
back coil stop.

After having read the entire document bobukcat supplied, I realize how asinine some of previous posts were. I now have a much better grasp of the situation.

I pulled the left flipper coil after having followed all the testing procedures to no avail and found it to in fact be a dead coil. And not the wrong one mind you, the newer updated one that does belong there. So that should fix that particular issue, though for whatever reason my DMM refuses to show voltage on the lugs. Yet the right one fires so not clear on that.

The error codes are another issue I believe. Testing all the switches I have found the correct voltages on each but the system refuses to acknowledge a close in EOS or lane change switches. I believe someone monkeyed around and shorted these two together. That's bad. Right?

I tested the transistors as described. Most show the correct value but there are six or so that show null. And this is where I'm in over my head. These readings could simply illustrate my ignorance. Sure I could pull the board and start replacing them one by one. In the end I could do more damage than there already is and likely would. I don't solder all that well. I could replace the board all together. Then I've doubled the investment in this game. Three, someone please tell me what three is.

I appreciate all of you. This sort of undertaking would be nearly impossible without an Internet and awesome people. Thanks. Seriously.

Good to hear you have this under control. I think you will do very well on Pinsides.

There's a ton of great information out there thanks to people who have taken all the time to document it. Let me see if I can help with the issues you mentioned:

DMM not reading voltage on coil lugs: you have to understand that there is only voltage across the two lugs when the coil is energized (i.e. the flipper is up). To test it normally you put the red lead on the coil (either lug, doesn't matter) and the black lead on a ground braid. Power isn't switched to the coils to energize them, ground is.

Voltage on switches in a switch matrix means very little - this article does a little better job of explaining it IMO: http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/repair-guides/146-switch-matrix-theory-and-troubleshooting

The first thing to do is find the switch matrix for your game (it's in the manual and a printed version may be stapled in the cabinet somewhere) then find the problem switches on it. In your case they are all in Column 5 so check every other switch in that column and then look at what's in common with those three switches that are not working (hint, it's probably not a bad transistor). Remember that the switches are not necessarily wired in the order of the matrix, so find the common wire for the column and follow it from each switch to the next ensuring that the solder joint is actually good (continuity test with game off is the best way to be sure) on each connection. My guess is you have a broken wire somewhere along the column.

One more piece of advice - don't ever start just shotgunning things on boards, you'll do more harm than good.

Good luck!

Sweet freaking reply bud. Thank you. I did manage to solve the flipper problem. Was simply what I was told was highly unlikely, a bad coil. A new one fixed it right up.

The switch issue remains but I dig your suspicion that it isn't board related. I'll dig into that tomorrow. I really do appreciate ya my good man!

Quick question, does anyone know what the jet bumpers are? Switches 33, 34, 35?

AKA pop bumpers. Spoon switches on the bottom of the bumper skirts

Sweet thanks. The manual is somewhat unclear on the matter.

There is a small passage in said manual which describes how to remove connectors and test the board for switches at j8&10, J8-5 specifically, which powers the entire column on which I am getting such errors. It also states that only three errors can be shown at a time which is good to know. If I jumper 8-5 to the rows on J10 I get zero switch responses. The other pins function properly and respond to the appropriate selection.

Just to confirm with my fellow pinsiders, per the chart, this means the transistor at Q43 is toast. If there are any other thoughts before I pull the board and whack at it, I'd damn sure like to hear them.

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Sorry, part was covered up.

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That is the scoring contacts. The solenoid is the second set of contacts
--- on the jet bumper switch stack.
Caution: side mounted switch stacks can cause a short and blow out the switch strobe.
------- e.g. Space Shuttle, PinBot.

Wait what!? I have still yet to pull it. Waiting on the ideas from you guys. I get its a daisy chain for power. What doesn't add up is the lack of power to pin 5.

Ok here is the deal. Need some wisdom. Finally got the game working 100% with no more switch matrix issues. So now the last remaining issue is killing me. Game plays fine for a few games. After it gets warm it will eventually freeze and go to GI only. It won't reboot. This will happen in attract mode or while playing.

The MPU is still getting 5V and the MPU display readout is "8". Any ideas on where the cause and solutions?

I am able to power cycle it and play again but it will freeze and go GI only shortly thereafter.

Thanks!

GRUMPY any idea here? I think it is heat related.

I would check for the correct voltage, 5 and +12 at the CPU. I would check for AC voltage on both of these. I would swap both CPU chips on the Cpu board. I would check for cracked header pins for the power cable that goes from the power supply and CPU board. Also remove the game Roms and look for dirty or bent pins. Clean pins with an eraser and reinstall Roms. Last would be to monitor the 5 volts while someone plays multiball until it locks up.

Noooooo. No no no. Same colours, please.

And it all fit like this. Dome flashers - red. Sausage inserts - blue.

Thanks. Is there a +12v test point on the CPU? The 5V tests fine at the test points on the MPU board.

No, connect to the cathode side of ZR-1. 11.8-14 volts and less than .2 volts AC.

4.9-5.05 volts and less than .2 volts AC.

And the big question is what is the voltage with when the problem occurs.

Do anyone know of a regional selection on High Speed? I have been expecting the boards and looking through the manual. Can't see any (like WPC).

My game insists on having German "Run the light..." text in attract. Even after a factory reset procedure.

There is a jumper that is W7 that controls coinages. It might need to be cut/or needs
--- to be attached. Or you need country specific ROMs.

The ROM is standard. That is what makes me scratch my head.

What about the W7 jumper?

Does anyone get a phantom ball showing up in the left hideout? I keep thinking I have it fixed and then it comes back.

I'm thinking there is a short because it will randomly start firing in the middle of a game. But I can't for the life of me find where it is coming from.

I can force it to do the same behavior by pressing the switch before a game starts.

Are you sure it's not just the ramp switches needing attention? I get phantom diversions and firing from the hideouts sometimes when the ball hits something hard, especially if its in the pop bumpers and really going. Pretty sure I just need to tweak the switches on the ramp in my case, but the last line of your post makes me wonder if you're having the same issue or not.

I didn't think of that, the only thing is that I never notice the ramp diverters firing.

Another thing that can randomly happen is when I run the red light and get multi-ball. The ball will go to the right hideout, then it will go to the left, but then it won't kick out the third ball. The left hideout goes into "stuck ball mode" and will kick out the ball while still not officially going into multi-ball until that loose ball hits something to cause a score change then it will kick out the right and then go into normal multi-ball mode.

It doesn't do it every time though.

I think either hide out would activate if you start a game and make that switch.
The game wants to return the ball at start up

Just joined the club today! Super excited! She needs a good clean, flipper rebuild and LEDs. Then she's gonna be sick!!!

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Congrats! Looks to be in pretty good shape. One of my favorite games.

Nice find; the playfield looks to be in nice shape. Interesting chunk of plastic there by the Santa Monica spinner. When I got mine it had a custom guard like that hot-glued to the plastic by the ramp entrance.

Has anyone done anything to "tidy up" areas behind the ramp when they switched over freeplay40's clear ramp? I understand the white portion at the start but I'm more talking about the diverter mech, switch plate, and two flash bulbs that are a sight for sore eyes with a clear ramp. I was thinking using two red dome covers and mounting the flashers to the back wall of the playfield. Anyone have any other ideas for the rest?

Hi all. I am putting my High Speed back together and found I don't have a single good pic of how the Hideout switches are wired topside on the playfield. The left side has a green wire and three white wires (one white has a different stripe), and the right side is two green wires and one white wire. The switches also have what looks like a grounding wire lug. Do some of the wires get attached to that?

If anyone can take a plastic off and send pics of both sides, that would be great! Thank you in advance.

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I had this same thought. I am thinking of building a new back piece that has artwork- something like an LA skyline. The back is really low-quality, painted black plywood and doesn't serve any function except a few mounting points for lights etc. I never liked the stop light, so I might replace it with an LED array that illuminates the whole back piece green, yellow, then red. In my mind it would make the scene look like it's going from day to night (so maybe a white, yellow, red combo instead?). Just a concept at this point.